pc2209

One other suggestion. I found a great deal on alum spinner at Tower Hobbies. Look for one that is for one of their p-51s Not sure who makes it but for some reason it is about $10 cheaper that the unpainted ones that I have been able to find... I just left it painted [it is yellow and red] May not exactly be a German scale paint job but how many others at the field are going to know anything about a Stuka... So I just left it like it was for now.

I have the cannon pods but have not mounted them... The thing flies so well now I was hesitant to mount them...Not because I thought the add'l weight would be a problem but that their drag might do something significant to the flight characterists... Has anyone mounted these things and could you tell me if it changes how the plane flies. Thanks

kwik

I dont know how important this is for you, but the B model never had those cannons as far as I know. It was more the G version I believe.( Or D, or whatever)

Of course noone else on the field will know that. Not many Stuka experts around. So, depends on your own preferences, I guess.

Good luck!

Andrew_S

My Feedback: (12)

pc and Charles, how did you end up making the wing panels removable?

pc2209

Hey Andrew, The instructions said to insert the spar in the slots and glue the outer wing panels to the center section. Instead I just glued the spar to the outer wing panel and when I fly I slip the outer section with the glued spar into the center section spar slot.. A nylon wing bolt holds the outer section to the center and I go in through the hatch for the flap servo to place this nylon bolt. I used the kind of nut that has the spikes on it and placed it on the inside of the center section rib to receive the nylon bolt. There was another guy in much earlier post that placed his nylon bolt at a diagonal from the bottom of the wing but he had to cut a hole in the wing bottom so I did it a different way. I dont think not gluing the two sections together takes away from the stength all that much...most of the stress is on the spar... I don't think you can see it but I also cut circular holes in the spar to take a little weight off too. I wish the manufacturer had done the same thing with the sides of the slot...the center section is heavy enough as it is. I also connect my servo and flap wires in this hatch. It requires you take the flap servo out each time you take the wing on and off but that is not really a biggie. He suggested to me that he glued the spar to the inner center section instead of the outer like I did it so when you slide the wing on it would go past the bottom of the wheel pants without any problems. I was having trouble with that but it was too late to try his suggestion. So instead of gluing the pants to the wing I put the outer wing on and then my pants are brought up to the wing and kept there with a couple of screws. As yoiu can see from the picture my wheel pants are hanging down away from the wing until I fly.

One other thing... I did not try to get the inner flaps to be functional. I could not think of an easy and secure way to do this and still be taking the wing panels off and on all the time. Anyway I just put some epoxy on the hinge joints and make sure they are even with the outer flaps before each flight... I have used full flaps to land... Mine make my plane pitch down instead of up but it's not all that much.

cfv007

My Feedback: (5)

I didnt make my wing panels removable. I was advised by Pat at ARF Pros not to do that. Plus it would be a bit of a hassle anyway. Its not like I cant fit an 80 in. wing into the back of my truck.

kwik

I glued the spars on my first Tiffie. Had an accident, The spar split exactly in the joint between inner and outer wing panel.

There is no way I would ever trust that joint, except if I could replace the wing-spar. But you cant, if its glued.

cfv007

My Feedback: (5)

I wouldn't doubt it. Accidents can cause all kinds of things to break. I know I have had my share!

pc2209

Hey Guys......I'll let you know if my wing breaks...so far I have had about 10 flights without any problems.... But if you're wondering what provides the strength of the wing....either wing spar or gluing two ribs together where the outer panel meets the center why don't one of you try flying without the spar and just gluing the wing panels. Finally I fly my Stuka like I fly my full scale Decathlon.....it has what is called a VNE which means the "never exceed speed" Although the Decathlon is stressed for 6 G positive and 5 G negative even in that airplane I am mindful my airspeed at all times [like the back side of a loop] so as too never exceed it's structural limits. [It's my ass on the line] I would imagine the Stuka has some limtations too..so I include a lot of power management in my flying...and fly it very scale like...just to keep the stress under control...

NUMB LOCK

My Feedback: (3)

Hi All,

Converted a glow to electric 80" Ju-87D Stuka with:

Eflite Power 160
Castle Creations 110 HV
10S 25C 5000mAh
Benedini Sound System

I used Hyperion batteries for this set up but I've also started buying batteries from HobbyKing...can't beat their prices.
The turnigy batteries work well and many have had good things to say about them. However, the gauge of the wires are quite thick...just fyi.
I use anderson powerpoles...and for the turnigy batteries I'd have to use 75 Amp connectors which are huge.

I set up a light ply box for the motor mount. Standoffs would have been easy by themselves but the length may have been an issue for such a large motor.
And I set up a battery tray with light ply where the gas tank would be which worked out well. I didn't notice any thrust angle for the motor/engine firewall
which I think may be typical for the KMP/ESM models. The box also made this easier to get correct. I had to use 3 degrees right and 1.5 degrees down with nylon washers.

The Stuka's final weight came out to be around almost 20lbs. The Power 160 has great power on only 10S.
The Benedini sound system is worth every penny. With the speakers mounted in the wings...it is a natural sound box making it a bit louder.
Here's a link of the sound system.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxzAQGZEam4

The CG was set up about 5 1/16". I used a single carbon fiber rod for the rudder and have found it does very well with no issues.

Bob I.

Andrew_S

My Feedback: (12)

PC, so how does she fly?

pc2209

Andrew...I didn't have any problem at all. After just a little elevator trim I took it up high and tried slow speed turns to see if it would tip stall and it didn't seem to have any unpredictable tendencies...It will stall eventually but not really violently and recovers pretty quick... I tried flying with the flaps at medium and full and it pitches down instead of up... Just added a little up trim when I was setting up for landing... Flaps helped mine a lot as it seemed to keep its airspeed which surprised me because I thought it would have more drag... I landed with full flaps accidentally on about the 3rd flight but didn't really know it until it got down and I saw that they were all the way down. I had said in a previous note that I felt like the best advice I thought I had gotten in this forum was the initial setting of the alerons and the flaps in line with the cord of the wing... This is not really all that easy to see....I got to the side of the wing tip and looked at it...hard because the wing is different sizes at different places.... I think this might have prevented some of the strong up pitching that some of the guys were talking about... Or maybe I just got lucky..PC

Andrew_S

My Feedback: (12)

Thats good...Mine flies the same, basically like a cool lookin trainer...

Edge3644

Hi Guys,
I bought recently ESM Stuka and curently I am the stage of mounting ailerons and flaps. Hookemut describes method of
screwing hinges on the wing surface, but my hinges are to be glued into slots in the wing. To fit them to the slots requires
gymnastic skills. None of the hinges will slide straight, but angled to the precut slots ( even though on the grinder I have sharpened leading edge of each hinge which inserts to the slot of the wing ). I understand this is latest modification from ESM. How do you guys go about this problem?. Thanks for any advice.

cfv007

My Feedback: (5)

I have yet to put my wing together. Hopefully I wont have that same problem. Im saving the wing assembly till last.


Charles

pc2209

Hey Edge...I made several little duplicate cradles that the hinges would rest on top of while the epoxy was curing.... these kept them in perfect and consistant positions....

kwik

If anyone is interested, I threw out my Zenoah G-38, and put in a Saito FG-36.

I am sure a FG-30 would be enough, but if the Stuka gets shot down, I will have a bigger engine in spare.

I cut off the nose and glued in a new firewall 4 cm aft of the original wall. The FG-36 is a long engine.

Why did I do this?

-The weight is reduced with 0.5 kg
-Better sound
-Better throttle control when landing.
-Better idle
-Less vibration

Also I watched a friend having this engine in a Top Flite Mustang. Its a wonderful engine.

A picture, and video;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KcM5IOMfE18

Note the unpainted "flap" on top of the cowling. I can access the switches anf fuel-dot via that flap.

Sharpeye22

I have been watching this thread and have made several notes for what I will do with mine when it comes in. Struts and removable wings similar the way you did Kwik is in the plan, as well as weathering, bomb drop, and sliding canopy. I have an FG30 earmarked for this bird. Iam hoping I will not have to move back the firewall as you did.

How about a left and right shot of your new engine install with cowl on. Iwould like to see how well it is enclosed in the cowl.

It sure looks cold in your film.

kwik

It was -18 deg Celsius that day.

That sounds like a good plan you got, Larry. I think the FG30 will be perfect for this plane.

Here are some pictures.

I have a 11mm spacer on the propeller axle.
Thats why the engine isnt protruding in front of the radiator.

There is nothing sticking out on the sides of the cowling, but you might notice the muffler sticking
a little bit out under, aft of the radiator flaps' ?

(Something fishy about picture uploading now...one got small, the two others very large......)

miklos

My Feedback: (38)

Hey Kwik.... I noticed in one of your pictures that you're using DB9 connectors on the wing center section where the wings plug in to make the servo wire connections easier. Great idea.... How's that working out? Any intermittents with the connection in flight or has it been rock solid so far?

alanc

The joiners are a slack fit, to allow glue to floow round them, if you are not going to glue them, i would suggest you cut some more out of Marine ply, multi layered, i dont think there would be enough strength for prolonged flights on the basic spars, and if it was me, i would using 2 bolts, not 1, dont know how though, this is just my view, of coarse,

kwik

Yes, I've use DB9 connectors on all my planes for years. No problems with that. I screw one set fixed to the center section.

The other one is loose hanging in its wires. Dont want to fix both connectors.

In cases where I have just one big wing, I use a DB9 between the wing and the fuse.

I just mold the solder area with epoxy. Just tape around the plug, and pour epoxy in it.

The alternative, having 2-3 plugs means you risk a wrong connection every time you connect the outer wing panels.

Why using 2 bolts? That bolt would be the last one to go. Its an M4. ( Try to rip it apart without damaging the wing...) They will only feel a sideways force ( in-out).

The joiners seem very strong.They will only feel up-down force. I havent glued them.

Have had several chrash landings ripping out the gear; They seem to hold.

pc2209

Hey Kwik...What is a...and where do you get a DB9 connector? That was neat instalation.

Also, like alanc I found the spars to have some play in them when I was working on making the wings removable. The slack was not in the width of the spar but was in the vertical edge. It wasn't much so my solutin was to epoxy on a thin piece of plywood on the edge that needed it and sand down until it would slide in snugly without any slop.

alanc

then, if not 2 bolts, one, and an alignment peg, a 4mm cap head bolt could rip out, can i suggest a large diameter washer, to spread the load, the spars are not designed to take the loads you are giving it, putting holes in them could lead to grief, creating a shear point, the material the spars aremade from is sufficient, if they are used as suggested, with glue, i would not trust them without it, but, if it works for you, then great, i can see advantages in your method me, i have a great big estate carthink you guys call them station wagons? so i donta the problem getting the wing in

kwik

A DB9 connector is a serial port connector for computers. It has 9 pins. Buy the ones for solder, not crimped pins.

I buy them from shops dealing with computer connectors.

Like here;
https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~eu_en/elfa...sub_connectors

Alan, the spar is reinforced with a very nice block of ply.

pc2209

An "estate car"? I got to admit that is a better sounding term than what we got over here in the US... Actually Station wagon is an older term...Now the closest thing to that is a "SUV" Sport utility wagon...except no one uses them exactly for that...[cause they have spent too much money on them]

I was just sitting here reading this and thought to look where everybody is from... Amazing.. 4-5 guys from US, Uk and Norway...talking about a common interest in one particular airplane and little techniques on how to build it... I usually what we do on the internet for granted but every once in a while it dawns on me how awesome that is.

You guys have a merry Christmas...and good flying with your Stukas! [Acutally since everone seems to be from the Northern Hemisphere I guess it's going to have to wait a few months...whats the coldest place..Norway?...its 35 Farenheit here [slightly over 0 celsius to you Europeans] pc