That's good to here. Rich

Hi I've been watching your posts for a few months now as i'm just starting to build my own 120 Zero and i was wondering how have you all dealt with your fuel tank breathers? I'm new to gas engines and i'm scratching my head a little.

Hello Shuglu,

Welcome to the post. I have been building gas engine models for a few years now and I have never used anything called a breather with my fuel systems. I have always setup a 3 line systems for all of a gas engine models. What is a fuel line brather?

A breather line is the same as a vent line.

Ok then to answer Shuglu question in I run a 3 line fuel system and the breather line(vent) runs out the firewall and down to the edge of the fuselage. That way when I fill the tank the over flo runs out the breather line onto the ground and I can see the tank is full. I have about 2 dozen flights so far and it has worked with any issues

Ok that sounds like the right thing to do. Does your line go straight out or do you put any loops in it or anything else? Sorry to sound like a complete dumb ass but a vent line open straight to atmosphere is something i've not used before.My glow engines have always been pressured via the muffler. Thanks.

Yes mine goes straight out. No loops or anything like that. This is a war bird and nothing really fancy is needed to keep it flying right. Good luck with yours you'll love this Zero. Best flying War Bird I have. What engine are you planning on using?

I run a 3 line system also with 2 clunks and I loop the vent line and tape it to the tank to prevent back flow. One clunk is for filling and goes to a filler dot the other clunck goes to the carb. Works great

I've gone for the 3 line double clunk tank in the end and it made perfect sense to me once i thought about what you said. Do you mind if i ask where you set your CofG on you birds?. I've read some scary stories on here especially about the 40 size Zero but this is the 120 so fingers crossed the distructions are more accurate.

Teach me something here! On gasoline engines I've always gone with a standard vent line at the top of the tank and a tee fitting in the carb feed line that runs to a fuel dot. Use the fuel dot for filling and emptying the tank. Are you using two clunk lines on nitro engines or gasoline engines? If this system is used on gasoline engines what are the advantages? Just trying to pick up some tips; always something new to learn...






edit for punctuation!

<u>RAMFlyer</u>. I suspect some people don't like breaking into the carb line in case it leaks air. Maybe when you fill via the carb line it can flood the carb too which is never nice.

<u><font size="3">jstanton.</font></u>..the engine i'm using is the CRRC 26R which is the new rear mounted carb version of this engine. Its got about a 1/3rd more horses than the original and V2 version . Im currently running it in...it sounds awesome and very powerful...had to order a bigger prop as the 16" is too small and an 18" is on the way.

Shugu,

Sounds like a good power choice for the 120 Zero you are building. Keep us posted on how will everything goes.

It has been a couple of month;s now with no more info from any of you on you builds. Some of you should be just abourt finished with your Zero's and I am looking forward to seeing some pic's ot videos of your Zero's.

I need to buy a canopy for my CMP Giant Scale Zero. Anyone have one for sale or know were to get replacement parts?
Need the drop tank and canopy.

Nitroplanes say they carry replacement parts for this plane but they seem to be out of stock all the time. You might send them a e-mail and see if they can help you at all.

You might try Yellow aircraft. I think their Zero is about the same size.

You might try AK models

AK Models does show one at $7.00

This thread has died. Any new imput on the plane pics of the zero peaple have scaled. Have one on the way and would love to scale it a bit. The zero is for my son because he wants to fly my war birds ( Byron mustang and corsair) and would rather him start on somthing a little more forgiving. More pics would be great. Thanks

The biggest problem seemed to be balancing it will take alot of weight up front. I used a Fuji 43 and put the rear servos over the CG and still added 3# of lead over the engine, but it flys like a charm. I would recommend a Zenoah G62 (more power and wgt). Good luck, lots of good info in this thread

Yeah, I have not gotten a chance to work on mine yet but I have worked on my test plane....World Models .60 sized Zero I got as a basket case from a friend.

Brief history:
It was hacked together into an electric and promptly crashed a few times before the original owner (unknown) gave up and sold it at a swap shop. Wing halves were not only broken up but no glue on the crutch and misaligned wing halves. I took that section apart by heating all the parts with a heat gun, softening the epoxy. Wing centers were completely disassembled this way and reassembled. Lots of details along the way scratch built and issues specific to this models. As I said before, this was a test platform for a few techniques I will apply to my CMP 82." Zero Actually I was able to shorten the cowl to scale length and not add ANY lead. Nothing sticking out of the cowl either with scale exhaust porting too.

CMP larger Zero will incorporate the fiberglassing painting and weathering of the smaller zero but Will solve part of the nose weight problem with an ASP radial. I have this engine and it's in it's testing stages, so far very powerful and excellent sounding too. I'm chomping at the bit to get to her but I'm finishing up a TF p40 arf first for our formation flying group. I have all the stuff I need to complete her: Retracts are Yellow Zero gear and spinner too. 3 blade solo. I think this plus moving all servos in the fuse forward to almost the firewall will add up into little or no lead up front.

Wow looks assume ! I can so relate to a test plane I've been trying out some new skills and tech myself on a 120 size CMP Zero in prep for a larger one myself problem is I am my worst critic I've been close to being done for almost a year now only to take it apart for the sake of trying out something new LOL

They say a scale plane is never really completed...Dave Platt says just when you have completed a facet of your model is the time you discover what you just did is wrong.[&o]

@Aluminum Overcast , that sliding canopy looks great. can you please post some pictures how you have made them.

Thanks, but the canopy is simply cut in two and the back half is tucked under the front. Rail line is just chart tape. Simple and looks the part but it is not functional. I just couldn't add any more time or weight to this project to add function to the canopy. The canopy is the stock one just masked off and sprayed with white Klass Kote primer to add thickness. As it was I created the headrest etc. but the interior is nothing to look at really. I just wanted to have a solid bird to fly with my group and along the way experiment with a few ideas I had. Larger Zero will have working canopy faired in, as well as full cockpit detail.

Model is painted completely with Klass Kote paint, Actually white is only primer (weight savings) insigs and numbers are also painted. I have a few more things to add as far as lettering and a few additional washes. I really want this to look like a wartime zero (very dirty and flaked) not a museum piece.