ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Well we've been having good weather here for a while so i finally got round to making the ventral fins, preping and i just finished priming the fuse. This is the first coat and one i fill and the hole, voids, etc , then i'll reapply panel line tape to the areas that need it before applying the second coat of primer.

I also epoxied 4 rare earth magnets to the canopy so one i glue the bit of tim to the fuse, the canopy should be read to go as well.


Thanks
Dave

The Ghost

Dave, looking good. Hopefully later today I will have mine up to the same place. Weather looks great here today so the fuse will get a coat of primer/surfacer.

Cheers

Ron101

My Feedback: (22)

Hey Dave what are you going to run for a fan?

I'd love to see one of these go on the new turbo fan 8000... it's a drop in fit in the byron.. but has 28 pounds of thrust
the fan is just a beast.. if you look at post 14 on page one there's a video of it on a wild hornet... just super sick!!

Ron

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Ron,

I'm running the standard byron fan conversted to electric with the Hacker A50-14s... although 28lb sounds nice, at $1200-1300 USD, for the fan and motor, then the cost of the ESC,packs you would be well and truly at the cost of a turbine. i'd go a kero burner at the drop of a hat if i had that kind of money to throw at one of these.

It does sound good, but i'm more like at the entry stage of EDF, were as i see that kind of fan/motor combo for those who just want to get the most out of what's out there. I'm busting for a turbine, so that would be my first choice.

Ghost, on the other hand might be interested?

Thanks

dave

Ron101

My Feedback: (22)

Just checking.. I'm sure it will go real nice on that fan

I've heard they do about 100mph which looks nice

I fly my F-16 at 1/2 to 3/4 power most of the time anyway looks better...

it will fly great for you

can't wait to hear the flight report

Ron

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

Dave,
got your voice mail. Looking at about 1030 - 1100 Friday for Sea Fury test flights at TMAC.

cheers
Peter

The Ghost

I'm with Dave on this, if I wanted to spend that amount I would go back to a kero burner.

Dave, would you be able to post a pick of the rear of wing where it meets the fuse, I have misplaced(put in safe place, lost) the small ABS filler parts(see photo1) will have to make out of balsa.

Have fitted fan and checked wiring clearence on landing gear.

Cheers

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Ghost,

do these help?

The Ghost

Thanks Dave, it is tapered looking at the rear of it, did not know if it was tapered or straight. Will have to start on that tommorow, then will be able to start on paint.

Cheers

The Ghost

Now have it in primer, just have to wait a day or two, and then start with the spot putty on all the imperfections on the fuse[&:], just can't see them without a coat of paint. If the weather holds, I should have the colour on by the end of next week.

Cheers

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Your not wrong!! my fuse looked like it had the measles this all the red dots of spot filler over it! I've sanded them back now and i've run out of primer and so has supercheap, so i'm going to try another supercheap store and see if i can buy some more.

Looks like i'll be using the VHVBEC (Very High Voltage BEC) from dimention engineering. it can handle upto 14s and supply 5 digital servos so well within it's specs according to them. it will also turn out heaps cheaper than 2x R/X packs and HD switches.

thanks

dave

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Haven't got the primer yet but didn't want to waste the little time i had today to get a little more done on her...

I masked up the canopy as i will spray the frame the same colour as the exterior. you can also see the 4 magnets i have epoxied to the lower portion of the canopy. these sit in corresponding holes in the rim of the canopy cutout. i'll epoxy a small section of tin to the inside of the holes tomorrow and so the magents will hold on to the tin, and the holes locate and provide a mecanical locking of the canopy also.

I have also bought a strobe kit for this model. i decided to go out for a fly and thought i should test in flight the lights! i used my standard test airframe the S&B models Me-163. they are visable in the daylight but a dusk they really come alive!! it was great fun flying past were i would normally have to stop because i can't mke out the plane.

Anyways i need to make the nav light housings for the f-16 so this is almost a step by step tutorial on how i make my vac formed parts. the housing are required because a: it's a scale lump and bump, and b: to difuse the light from the LED's so it's more visable in the daylight. The way i make mine is in effect an extension of platt's method for making lumps and bumps without the weight of his technique, and an added bonus that you can then make as many as you want.

I always buy a plastic model of the aircraft i am modelling because they always tend to be a wealth of information.

Firstly, i place a piece of tape over the section of fuse were the bump need to go. it helps if it's nice and smooth. i then mark out with a fine marker where and what shape the lump needs to be. NOTE: from here on in is a very time sensitive process and you cannot leave the job until you've completed the lump!!! I mix some two part automotive car bog as per the instructions. this is lumped into the correct location as per the marked out line in the previous step. I also heaped the remainder for another lump you'll see later. just after mixing the bog tends to be fairly runny. this will mean you'll have to keep an eye on it and push it back into the correct place and height for a short period of time. Within about 5min (depending on the amount of kicker you've mixed in) the bog will start to harden up. it's at this point were you can grab your modelling knife and start to carve the excess bog away. This is the most important time for me because the closer to the final shape you can get it during the "carving" stage, the less work it will be later on.

What you can also do is pop it off the side of the fuse an hold it in your hands while you carve it. it's still a little rubbery at this stage so be careful not to distort it's shape too much. once you've finished carving it (you have approximately 5mins of working time) the bog will have hardened up enough to make it quite hard to carve. normally i place it back into it's position on the tape on the fuse and let it harden up little more. after about 10mins you can start to sand it to the final shape. i normally work through the grades of sandpaper starting at about 240grit and finish with a 2000grit wet sand. if you allow the lump to dry overnight before the final polish you an get a beautiful shine a the bog then has it becomes rock hard.

thanks

dave

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

once finished you can remove the tape from the fuse and there you have a perfectly fitting lump for you model!!! this is were platt just attached the lump to the model and is done. in order to save weight and in this case, produce a clear lens, i then vacform the lump.

As you can see i also made the beacon on top of the fin. i used a section of paddle pop stick to make the lower plate. now althought the wood grain will be visible once vac-formed you will not feel it on the outside of the vac-forming, and seeing as that section will be painted over it's not a major concern. not ony is the mounting plate also a scale detail, it make mounting this beacon so much easier. i also added the mounting plate to the nav lights on the side of the fuse but added a slight curve to the paddle pop stick to match the fuses.

So you can see, once vac-formed, you have these great looking covers at a fraction of the weight, and you can make as many as you need!

Thanks

Dave

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

great stuff Dave, you are a genies-arse at all these fiddly scale bits!

The Ghost

Hi Dave, as Peter said, I'm not going to that extent, just a good looking and flying model will do me. Have the rudder completed and will fit and fill today as the wind is really kicking up at the moment, should be a better day today after 33deg yesterday.

Cheers

The Ghost

Hi All,
Got the complete model in primer/surfacer and rubbed out. Just waiting on the white undercoat to arrive[]. Have talked to my paint supplier about the colour paint, he said that the colours would be no problem, just a bit of time to mix to get the colours correct. I will get him to mix them when the undercoat arrives that way will have the paint when it is needed.

Cheers

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

good work mate

The Ghost

Weent looking around the big bad WWW yesterday. Found quite a few different schems and markings for the F16. Thought I had the final schem After looking at a few I may have to rethink. Decision's, Decision's, Decision's,


Cheers

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

LOL mate, that is the scheme I was muttering about earlier

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Nah pete, that one is different to the "standard" Tiger scheme...

I have the same dilema looking for a scheme. i want a standard 2 tone colour scheme but with a little colour on the tail. there is a nice one from the 79th with a yellow and black tiger on the tail but it would be a real pain to mask, without some stencils being made for it. i'll have to see what the new pricing is like for Getstencils minus gary.[&o]

Hey Ghoast, what type of paint are you going to paint yours with? I've painted my last two warbirds with latex paint and they ahve come out pretty good, but it would be about $60-70 in paint but you end up with heaps of left over paint...

Thanks

Dave

The Ghost

Pete, sorry I thought you ment the ones shown below.

Cheers

The Ghost

Dave, Check out [link=http://www.voodoo.cz/falcon/]HERE[/link] for more paint schems, right side under gallerys.
I use automotive acrylic. Have used this paint for years as it is fuel proof and has a very thick pigment which can be thined right out so very little paint is required on the model to cover, Have never used latex and to tell the truth, where I live I doubt that the paint shops have even heard of it. Athe the retired old farts are moving into the area and trying to stop any improvements that people are trying to get started in the district. They want to keep the district in the 50's, but thats just MY rant.

Cheers

Canuck1

Ghost

You are right with regards to pin holes on the Byron stuff[:@]
Love this thread, have been watching for a while, and no absolutely nothing about electrics

Looks good.

Craig

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks mate for the link, it was making some noise when i opened it up so i'll wait till i get home to check it out properly

Don't worry, all the shops here didn't know what Latex paint was either. it's a very american term i have since found out. After discussions with Dulux, Their Weathershield range of exterior grade paint is what the americans call latex paint. it's about $35 a tin colour matched to your samples. the only drama is that miniumum qantities they can mix is 1 litre tins. i've got about 750 mils of olive drab, neutral grey, RLM 76, 71, 72, etc, etc etc...and i feel bad just using a small amount of paint and having to pay for the rest!

If you check out Roy vaillencourts website he's got some really good articles on latex paint and how it's so much lighter than 2-pak and the other automotive paints, but that's not why ui use it.

I use it because it doesn't matter what the temp, humidity etc is doing, you can still paint with it regardless. so long as it's not getting rained on it's all good! But the most important feature is that it's not toxic and doesn't smell the house out. i sprayed 2 pak outside the other day and the the whole house was smelling

thanks

dave

The Ghost

Dave, only does that on the main page, once into gallerys top one on right that noise stops. Only 13 pages of aircraft with nearly 50 on each page, so it takes some time to get through them.

Cheers