yep that would be your video. I may have missed it but what size prop did you use & what was the flying weight?
your flight & speeds looked very scale like. very impressive.

Thanks.

I think the prop was a 15x8 or 15x10 master airscrew. It came it at around 12.5 lbs. If I had used the new eflite electric retracts (I have now for my other more scale cmp one).

The eflites can be placed on separate channels and mixed to delay one as full in scale.

Steve

thanks for the info. do you know anybody selling a Erla Hubbe for this size 109?

so anyways my CMP Bf 109 will be here in about a week and a half. should I start a seperate major bash on
it in this thread? or start a new thread?

Just keep posting here, if you don't mind. Many of us would love to see what you do.

yah I can to it in this thread.. no problem. the CMP Bf 109F I'm doing isgoing to be converted toaBf 109G-10.. but thats all
I'm going to say for now. stay tuned

Just started building the CMP BF-109. I've been looking through the manualand it looks like the wing is not removable for transportation. Any ideas? How are you guys transporting this thing?

Thanks, Messer

The wing is held on by two bolts(hex head bolts going into blind nuts) at the rear end of the wing and two aluminum pins at the front. This is illustrated in the manual rather clearly. There are two circular white plastic pieces with 3 screw holes that you screw into the forward wing saddle section for where the two aluminum pins slide into.
What you will need to do is:
1) Build the wing...all servos, landing gear, etc and join the wing halves....do NOT glue down the bottom wing/fuselage piece yet
2) Line up the wing in the wing saddle and measure to make sure it it centered and then tape the wing down to the fuse
3) One of two ways to line up the aluminum pin hole locations on the front of the wing:
-A)drill thru the front firewall with a long drill bit thru those pin holes into the front wing saddle. Use a drill bit that is the same or slightly smaller diameter then the alimunum pins...easiest and most accurate way
OR
-B)Carefully measure the exact spots on the front of the wing for where the aluminum pin holes should be drilled. You must be very precise with measurements or the wing will be off center once you glue the aluminum pins in place...you will drill these spots manually when the wing is not in position on the wing
4) Now....with the wing still taped down in place.....at the back of the wing saddle area..there are wood plates glued in the fuse to accept blind nuts. Drill thru the wing into those wood plates. Install blind nuts......then use the hex head bolts to secure the trailing edge of the wing to fuse.
5) Now you can affix the bottom wing/fuse cover. You will need to drill out/open up the two circles located on this piece to gain access to the hex head bolts. There are white circular rings that you glue into those holes for a clean appearance.

Got it. I looked at the plans a liitle closer and now see how it's done. Thanks for your response. I thought I was going to have to buy a trailer.,

Messer

P.S.How difficult is it to get replacement parts for this plane in the event of a crash? (hope i'm not jinxing myself here)

Its difficult to get replacement parts for CMP planes , most US stock is on a full container basis and the two main importers have not had many parts unless they pirate an existing full kit on hand .
If your that concerned on crashing I suggest you buy two kits , in the end the price to ship big parts will not benifit you vs the cost of a new kit

so I read somewhere in this thread that Ty was going to make the Erla Haube . any news on that? if not,
is there a source? or will I have to modify the existing Haube? thanks.

You would have to email him but I would doubt it . He typically makes products when the plane is released or if the demand is high from VQ . I think this is about year 2.5 from when the plane was released , so demand would be questionable .
CMP makes great planes but in the last two years with the new lower price from ESM i dont see CMP selling or introducing enought new planes to keep full containers going into the states

ahhh. so that means I gotta make one. thanks.

Yes , but you may try the guys that make scale parts for the kit versions o the BF109 .
I am not too familar or i would get you a list . I will see if I can google some suppliers for you .
As you know many times parts from 1/6 scale or 1/7 scale will work because the actual scale of the planes are off
Do you have any pics or facts on the plane you need parts for ? I am not a BF109 knowledgeable person

thanks again! the one I'll be doing is a G-10/U4R3 ( U4 being the 30mm nose cannon & R3 being the 300l drop tank),
Erla Haube, Type 100 cowling ( aka "dirty" cowling). doubt there will be anything for the cowling, the the spinner for the
30mm cannon is only slightly different. but ANY accesory parts you could find will be most appreciated. oh.. I already
have the William Bros. Golden Age <font size="2" face="Verdana">4-3/8" Diameter wheels on order.. so no need for those. </font>

I just got this cmp bf-109 second hand... without the manual... I checked out the manuf web site and they do not offer a PDF version of the manual...

Is there anyone here that can scan it and send me the pages? I would very much appreciate it and would say good things about you behind your back.

Ill give you the most important info...the CG. Place it at 112mm from the leading edge of the wing. No more then 116mm. Further back and it will be tail heavy.
If you want retracts, get Sierra Giant. They have a set specifically for this plane.

was wondering about the CG, as I'll be using the DLE20 which only weighs 29 ounces.
plane should be here early this coming week.

Even though I did electric....I was able to balance the plane with no dead weight. The electric motor weighs less then a glow/gas motor obviously, but I also had the speed control on the rear firewall, the retract air valve and servo up front(where the throttle servo would go), the RX as well as the RX 2600 6v battery up front as well as all on/off rx switches(2 of em). All of these items where a gas/glow motor would sit.

I also made the exhaust stacks removable(held on with rare earth magnets). Under these is where I placed the air fill valve, two on/off switches as well as a deans arming plug for the esc

yeah forgot your running electric. but my goal is the same as yours.. no adding dead weight.
clever trick with the exhaust dumps.

Also note, that since my flight batteries(2x 5s 5000 lipos) sit right under the wing and block all the stock servo mount locations, I had to build a servo tray further back near the rear of the wing saddle. So.....that added a tad weight to the tail sorta. Anyway....I dont think you'll have any problems at all balancing it.

Thanks for that bit of information... I do really need the manual... I left an 3-mail for the manufacturer....

So if someone would xerox it or scan it for me... I would be happy to pay the cost and mailing... of the User's manual.

mine will be coming early this week. I'll see what I can do for you if you can wait a few days...

E-mail worked... on Sunday!!!! can you imagine that??? Way to go CMP!

I have what I need... or thought I needed, or assumed I needed, or dreampt that I might possibly likely need, ahh shut the he11 up and build the darn plane already.

Thanks CMP! You Rock

Guys,
With respect to the CMP Bf-109, do the airbrakes/radiator cooling flaps haveany use on the model? Can they be utilized as landing flaps? I'm thinking about just putting inexpensive servos there and noteven using them unless there is some benefit.,

Thanks, Messer