well it was never used as dive brakes. the lower cooling flap opened automatically when the flaps
were deployed. the upper coolant flap did open, but something around 30 degrees in normal flight
I think.

as far as use on this specific model, its there for show only.

I should add though one can always make the rad flaps work just like they did in the fullscale Me 109.
I'll be using a thermocowl to control the oil coolant/ rad coolant flaps. will be fully automatic & the upper
coolaNT flap will be limited in its travel.

Here are a few pictures we took the day we maidened it with a camera phone, Sorry if the quality isn't the best.

Messer, the E and below debriefings were filled with pilots commenting that they needed to turn the auto cooling off prior to gun passes or it would make aiming difficult. So for the F and up they came up with the clam shell design to eliminate that problem. So were ever the flap was set the top part would follow it as best as possible.

Joe

HI All ,great info here. I Got one of these birds and am going to do some work on her ,I 'm wondering if any one has found the right colors CMP use's ,and if so what are they. Does model master paints have anything that matches and what about tamiya paints? plus what kinda covering did CMP use?, I want to make the gear more scale and have to cut away there covering ,what should I use to recover that area and blend in with the old stuff. If you have paint numbers even beter .I'm thinking spray can ,being lazy, any help would be great. oh going 1.80 saito . I'

Thanks
Joe

Hey Steve,

Have you got any pic's of your spinner backplate you machined up? I've just aquired a lathe in a bit of a trade with my mate and so now i could spin up my own replacement backplate as well

Thanks

Dave

You're not going to find any off the shelf colors that match. The best thing to do is to go to Home Depot with a color sample and have them match the paint. You can get a sample jar for about $3.50. After painting the model with the paint from the Home Depot, spray over it with fuel proof flat clear to protect the base coat.

ticketec

Sure, let me pull it down and get some pics of what I did.



Steve

First let me point out I am not a machinist at all. I just have a lathe and a mill and the drive to make things. More than once at times.

The biggest challenge for me was to mount the 4.5mm aluminum rough disk to true. I think I mounted it to a 1" solid aluminum machined "face plate" I made to hold disks.

I used the original back plate to get an idea of where the spinner groove should be cut. I mounted the original onto the face plate and to get the approximate location for the groove.

It took two tried to get the groove to where I liked the fit. Snug, with no play, but not tight.

Once you cut you alum back plate, you will need to secure your original plastic spinner to the aluminum. I used a center bolt in the spinner along with 2 of the original mounting hole with allen/cap screws to keep the spinner from slipping when spinning at high RPM and hitting the blades. I would have used four screws but 2 of the hole were broken.

The center extension shaft is a piece of 1/2" aluminum tapped to my engine and tapped for my center mounting bolt, originally a cap screw to simulate a cannon.

Very important to use thread lock on the spinner screws because you do not want to over tighten and place extra load on the spinner.

And as always, never be in the hazard zone of high speed moving parts. Anybody.

Steve

Sorry, duplicate pics

Forgot one part.

On the spinner to spread the load and look like a cannon I made a small aluminum disk to avoid having just a screw on the front of the spinner. It is contoured to "seat" on the spinner tip.

I'm very interested to hear how that little gasser works out.

I got a build thread going on it.. well not really a build, but a bash. so far, so good.
ty said he didn't make the spinners anymore(?), just the canopy & cockpit. gonna
order the cockpit asap.

bash thread: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10407738/tm.htm

I am in the process of talking to Sierra Giant Scale about making spinners for the CMP 109. He does make spinners for other planes. I still believe there is enough demand for the CMP spinner to make it worth while to produce them....

Ty

You can get a dave platt spinner/backplate for $55 that is a resin dome and an aluminum backplate. Email him at http://www.daveplattmodels.com/
The one for the 68" dave platt ME-109 is the exact right fit for this CMP ME-109
If, for some reason, you muck up the resin dome, you can get that replaced for only $30 without having to buy a new backplate.

Guys,
Saw the suggestion for the Dave Platt spinner for the CMP Bf-109. Is this an aluminum spinner. I heard the one that comes withthe kit is no good. I'llbe using an OS 2-stoke 160 engine.Has anybody tried the Dave Brown spinners?,

Messer

Hey guys. As far as a spinner goes. Fliteskin has a 109 spinner in stock. I talked to Jose the other day about them. They are 148mm in diameter and the CMP front is 145mm. The fliteskin spinner is less than 1/8" larger. I think this would be a good replacement until another one is made.

http://www.fliteskin.com/Me109page.htm Spinner about half way down the page...


Ty

The Dave Platt me-109 spinner is an aluminum backplate with hard resin dome that is a bolt thru the middle setup. I have two and they work great. Cost is $57
Dave Brown does not make a spinner shaped for an me-109.

The stock spinner is a thtrow away item unless you get an aluminum backplate to fit it. That being said, even with an aluminum backplate thats been milled up on this thread, if you have a prop strike, it will disintegrate the black plastic dome into many pieces. Ask me how I know

I read on G-Pete's P-40 thread that the CMP P-40 spinner doesn't have the same catastrophic failure tendencies that the 109 spinner has. Does anyone else have any experience with the P-40 spinner? I'm leary to use it on the plane I'm building because of what has happened with the 109 part.

Thanks. What's the size of the Platt spinner.... Are the slots cut for the prop? Is it close to the one in the Bf-109 kit?,

Messer

what I'd like to know is:

1. were these backplates breaking becouse of people tossing the low vibe mounts and hard mounting them?
2. was there adequate spacing between the the backplate & cowl?
3. did they break after 1 or 2 nose overs?
4. what size/make props were on when they broke?
5. was the spinner screws over tightened?

reason for the questions is that for every one that breaks, theres ALOT more that don't.
I'm also not advocating using the stock spinners, thats dealers choise.. I'm just curious.

The P40 spinner broker with both glow and gas engines , I was part of the guys who purchased the plane when released , no nose over , no over tighten , no over use , no CSI investatgation , deal is , not made strong enought for the common use . If it was a typical consumer product there would have been a national recall for safety , while I love CMP , I am not a fan of how they handled the problems and incredible danger they placed modelers in .
If you use the CMP Be109 spinner or the CMP-P40 spinner, please be awared its a flying time bomb of scrapnel , its not a matter of "will it break" its a matter of when .
I immediatly moved to a Gene Barton spinner for my P40 and recently bought a carbon fiber version from Hobby King .
As far as the Bf109 I have the one that Ty made .

case closed

Hey LDM, what diameter spinner did you purchase from HK? It looks like the P-40 spinner is about 4 5/8".