Todd,

That looks feally cool. What engine and retracts are you using?

Sierra Retracts, OS 1.60 Glow engine. Read all about it way back on an earlier post of this thread. I've had it for 5 years now, still flying great.

I recently added new wheels from the new Hanger 9 .60 sized 109. They work great, much better than the Williams Bros. Wheels, and they look more scale.

Todd,

Thanks for the info on the engine and retracts.

Thanks for the tip Todd, I'll check that out !

W1

Your 109 looks great. You do need that tropical air filter though.

Steve

Thanks ScaleCraft

I know, a friend has promised to give me some fine wire mesh to build the air filter

You can also use a light fiberglass weave 2 or 3oz wrapped around a tube or wood dowel maybe to simulate a screen look.

That's what I used on my Yellow 14. The one with the red primer tail he had.

steve

Pic of my 50" span all composite one. I have yet to finish my 2nd CMP 109 with the scale corrections and upgrades. Posted way in the early part of this thread.

Kinda got into 90mm edf jets.

steve

Gorgeous!
Its nice to see the exhaust stack in the correct scale location, I cringe every time I look at mine [>:]

Thanks for the filter tip, what did you use for the front cap, styrene?

Exactly. Good eye.

The CMP is a good base to start with. I made scale exhaust headers out of urethane for this model too

steve

Found the pic

Steve

Paint jobs and scale details ... that spells F-U-N !

Hi Good to see the thread is going 4 years after it started.
Been working on mine for 1 year, cost about $260 but finished there wont be change from $ 500.
I had to fix a few cracks in the fues, it had been a display model in the shop and I suspect it was dropped but I Fiber glassed ply inside to stiffen the weak areas and it attached very well.  
Using E Flite 120 U/C which fits easy but if put in as per the design the wheels are only about 30 mm in front of the CofG, I read where they nose over easy.  Did a lot of work to make the wheels extend another 40 mm forward taking a lesson from the Top flite Mk9 design, hope it is enough.  Also if you mount e flite on the bearers the struts are >5mm below the wing skin and you have to space the covers off the legs.  This was solved with the same mod to get the wheels further forward by raising the height of the bearers.
Have used a Dubro tail wheel but with a bulkhead mount and it is much more robust and looks better, ( This idea came from Kahlog).
Was not happy at all with the flexibility of the push rods, pretty sure that the tail would vibrate so I hard mounted them in the fues with two extra bulk head supports and used them as guides for flexible pushrods inside.
I was not happy with the alignment of the wings if you follow the instructions.  Mount the mains and make the TW parallel and the TW will be at an obvious angle to the fin so I mounted the TW Square to the fin then adjusted the main Wing attachment to look square  (mainly with a thick layer of Silastic that forms a great seat when hard.
I am now mounting the engine, i like the idea of the flexible mount as I can get the bolts further away from the edge of the wood but  then the spinner moves off centre on the front, I know the shift is small but I dont like it and i see some comments that the mounts provided dont work, any success stories?
Also I cannot see how there will be sufficient cooling inside the engine bay with or without the cowl?  I have thought about opening the front and rear of the cowl with small vents to duct air over the motor, any comments on the cooling?

My wife says i have a <span lang="EN-AU"><font face="Times New Roman" size="3">Chandelier and thinks that i will never fly it after all of the work and says i should hang it on the roof with landing lights</font></span>

I made air inlet and outlet from soft 0.5mm aluminum sheet. After painting it blends with the cowl, and keeps the cylinder cool.

Nice to see this thread still going. I have another one of these still nib that I may put together at some point. Ive kept a spare kit of this plane around for a couple years now since they seem to becoming scarce.

I had 2 kits, lost one set of wings to a dead stick on landing. So I have a brand new fuse with no wings. No luck finding any replacement wings. So I did some research and have ordered a set of wings from the ESM 109. I know they are E model wings on an F fuse, but will see how this works and what changes I may need to make. Could be interesting.

The ESM Emil wing is almost exact same size as my Fliteskin F wing( minus the rounded wingtips), so you should be fine, just add some wingtips and you'll be about where you need to be.

Casey

Thanks Casey, good to know. I have the wingtips from the damaged F wing so that should work. I dont think I will change the flaps though. I will most likely leave the E wing flaps as they are.

There is a kit in a hobby shop in dubai ( probably from the back of the stock room) not sure what thefreight will be but Aramex charges by weight,normally without a weight penalty and hasan agency in NewYorkyour just near Tower hobbies.
I can check it out for damage if any one is interested.

david R

Sorry,normally withoput SIZE penalty

Just another question, has anyone made an exhaust to route the back out through the original blisters to make it entirely realistic instead of plumbing out of the bottom.
I have seen metal exhaust blisters on the net  for about $80 and there is a large Spitfire Mk9 on UTUBE but it is too big for this plane.
I have a 120 AX and am trying to make an expansion chamber behind the engine then split it into anout 6mm tuned pipes back through the side of the fues.
It doesn't take many tubes to get the same CSA of the OEM muffler but the back pressure from the length of the pipes might have an effect.

Dave
Sounds like an interesting project, please let us know how it goes and post pics

Regarding your questions, you might get more feedback on the engine threads

Nick

PS: bumped into this video of a Dora-9 with scale exhausts, looks and sounds great!

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dwZ5OFGIFk8[/youtube]

yes thats what i am after, just looking to minimise the hand crafting I have to do.</p>

Question for those that have flown the CMP BF109 with success. I am almost ready to maiden mine. I think I remember reading somewhere back in this thread that the CG in the instructions was to far back. So, what is the correct location for the CG?

110mm