Y/A Spitfire Building Progress
#26
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Thanks Evan. Comming from you, that is a big compliment. I may have mentioned in past posts that your Spitfire as seen on your website was really the inspiration for me doing this one. I did my best to reinforce the retract area as I had heard from others that this could be a weak point. Also heard of gear going up through the top of the wing skins on hard landings. I know you'll get yours back up very quickly. I'll post more pictures as progress continues. I'm mostly involved now with the smaller items not really condusive to good pictures. Thanks again, Mark.
#27
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From: Brick, NJ
Mark,
Did you use socket head screws or set screws to attach your spinner to the backplate? I was thinking of set screws for the Zero spinner that I will hopefully build soon(when that will be?????? but it is sitting in the basement).
Did you use socket head screws or set screws to attach your spinner to the backplate? I was thinking of set screws for the Zero spinner that I will hopefully build soon(when that will be?????? but it is sitting in the basement).
#28
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Barnyard, I bought this kit and the spinner second hand. When the spinner arrived, it had holes drilled and apparently tapped at the appropriate locations, but no screws or bolts installed. I have not looked closely at it as yet because I havn't needed to. I anticipate, however, that I will probably use small philips head or button head bolts.
#29

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From: Sedona, AZ
Originally posted by MarkShapiro
Jakob, In order to fit it in, I had to tear out the stock firewall and build a new one. Then I had to set the new one beck into the fuse about 1 inch. It is a tight fit, but it fits in great. The only thing you can see with the cowl on is the top of the cylinder head. A very nice clean fit, if I do say so myself. Teh muffler will be custom built and exit through the scale exhaust stacks. Again, an Even Quiros creation. I will put everything back in place and snap off a few shots. Stand by for those.
Jakob, In order to fit it in, I had to tear out the stock firewall and build a new one. Then I had to set the new one beck into the fuse about 1 inch. It is a tight fit, but it fits in great. The only thing you can see with the cowl on is the top of the cylinder head. A very nice clean fit, if I do say so myself. Teh muffler will be custom built and exit through the scale exhaust stacks. Again, an Even Quiros creation. I will put everything back in place and snap off a few shots. Stand by for those.
pretty *****in looking Spit...power of 3W 70 is really boo coo...I use a 3W 70 on my 38 pound Hurricane...used a Moki 1.8 on my last 28 pound Spit and using a 3W 50 on my current Mk I Spit...all 1/5 scale......tried the scale exhaust method on the last Spit but abandoned it in favor of straight exhaust diverter...back pressure caused the engine to heat up and go lean....had a massive muffler but still couldn't get the scale exhaust to work well....good luck on yours....interested in your slider rails...how much for a dup set do you think?
LA-7
#30

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From: spring hill,
FL
Originally posted by MarkShapiro
Working on the sliding canopy. I looked to Dynamic Balsa for their canopy rails. Holy Crap!!!! Pretty expensive for what you get!!! I made my own rails including the slider that goes inside. I may be selling duplicate sets of these on RCU if there is an interest.
Working on the sliding canopy. I looked to Dynamic Balsa for their canopy rails. Holy Crap!!!! Pretty expensive for what you get!!! I made my own rails including the slider that goes inside. I may be selling duplicate sets of these on RCU if there is an interest.
The details of the mechanism, as well as the piece parts are in the thread and can be found if you do a search on "sliding canopy"......
The brass rails I used were purchased from K&S Brass rectangular stock that I had brought to a local machinist.
He cut a slot down the center of them for $20 per 50 ea.
Dynamic balsa's rails are a bit pricey.
Good luck with the Spit!
#34
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Not sure if I ever posted pics of the custom muffler I built for this bird. So, here they are. It is built out of 100% aluminum. Should be very cool. The exhaust stacks will exit out of their scale location at the first two on the port side. (Is port the left side?) Obvioulsy, the dummy fiberglass stacks that came with the kit will not be used for these first two spaces.
#37

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From: huntingdon, , UNITED KINGDOM
hi mark
looking good.....i did the same as you scaled up the BT plan and re-did the tail end completely, too heavy, 2nd version much much lighter, re-made the cannons, as these aren't scale either, also re-made the radiators, exhaust stubs and much more, but all in all a great looking spitfire.
what colour scheme are you doing, seen too many DW-D versions, althought the documentation is handy, i went for a SEAC version, looks nice, i made some dry transfers to 1/5 scale for the spit, they work out expensive but make all the difference.
put a moki 2.10 in mine, plenty of power....
oh well hope it goes well
cheers
dave
looking good.....i did the same as you scaled up the BT plan and re-did the tail end completely, too heavy, 2nd version much much lighter, re-made the cannons, as these aren't scale either, also re-made the radiators, exhaust stubs and much more, but all in all a great looking spitfire.
what colour scheme are you doing, seen too many DW-D versions, althought the documentation is handy, i went for a SEAC version, looks nice, i made some dry transfers to 1/5 scale for the spit, they work out expensive but make all the difference.
put a moki 2.10 in mine, plenty of power....
oh well hope it goes well
cheers
dave
#38
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Hello Bob: Thanks for the compliments. I can answer your question and Dave's all in the same post. I will be using PPG base colors and Flex 'n Flat clear coating. I have used this with all my warbirds and the finish is always fabulous. After trying different products, I find nothing comes anywahere close to the PPG stuff. Expensive, but worth it. As for Dave's question on trip scheme, I am going to keep the suspense going a little bit. I will say, however, that it will not be the typical Spifire scheme (although they are always beautiful). I am planning on painting my details and markings. Never done that before so I expect a challenge. Anyway, it shant be long now.
#42

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Mark,
Nice job on the scale exhaust, but I would like to submit my two pennies worth. The exhaust look's like it is close to the surrounding fiberglass lower cowl. The heat from the exhaust could possibly soften the glass or bubble your paint in these areas. Something that you may already plan to do, but made no mention of.... is a heat shield.
BVM sells a very thin ceramic cloth blanket or BVM heat shield paint that could be used as a protection barrier. Just a suggestion.... keep the pics coming.
Nice job on the scale exhaust, but I would like to submit my two pennies worth. The exhaust look's like it is close to the surrounding fiberglass lower cowl. The heat from the exhaust could possibly soften the glass or bubble your paint in these areas. Something that you may already plan to do, but made no mention of.... is a heat shield.
BVM sells a very thin ceramic cloth blanket or BVM heat shield paint that could be used as a protection barrier. Just a suggestion.... keep the pics coming.
ORIGINAL: MarkShapiro
Not sure if I ever posted pics of the custom muffler I built for this bird. So, here they are. It is built out of 100% aluminum. Should be very cool. The exhaust stacks will exit out of their scale location at the first two on the port side. (Is port the left side?) Obvioulsy, the dummy fiberglass stacks that came with the kit will not be used for these first two spaces.
Not sure if I ever posted pics of the custom muffler I built for this bird. So, here they are. It is built out of 100% aluminum. Should be very cool. The exhaust stacks will exit out of their scale location at the first two on the port side. (Is port the left side?) Obvioulsy, the dummy fiberglass stacks that came with the kit will not be used for these first two spaces.
#43
Mark, This exhaust system gets rid of the exhaust and heat very quickly(and noisily). I have not had any problems with the fiberglass or paint in the surrounding area. However, mine is made from steel(noseweight) and yours is aluminum. I dont know if that will make a difference or not. BVM does indeed have a heat shield material that comes in liquid form. You can paint the inside area of the fuse around the exhaust with it for extra protection. Keep the pics comin!
Evan Q.
Evan Q.
#44
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Thanks Evan and Countryboy for your suggestions and experience with possible heating around the exhaust stacks. Evan, I have suspected that the noise factor with this muffler would be pretty high since it is virtually devoid of baffling. No matter, I love the noise! Especially while in flight. I am hoping to finish priming this weekend and then get to color base coats within the next two weeks following. I will have to put in panel lines and rivets first, and that definately takes time. By the way David, thanks for sending a larger picture of your Spit. It is Beautiful. Isn't that an Indian Theater trim scheme? I may be wronge. Either way, it is gorgeous. Hope mine turns out as nice.



