Doolittleraider

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nine o nine

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Hey Pete, Gonna see you at TG next spring with the Z Corsair?
I've a gripe on the Moki carb set up and maybe someone has a way to solve it. The throttle arm extension can loosen at the threaded joint and cause big trouble. Should locktite be used? If so I guess we'd have to heat it to undo it when necessary. Also I've a problem with the choke geometry since it's control arm is inside the cone mount and there's no easy way to get to it. I've made a small brass extension arm and use a ball link connector to drive it but it's a pain in the butt. Any ideas? Mitch

David Jackson

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Here are a picture that might help. My 250 was temporarily installed on a Yak 54 just to get some run time on the engine. I placed a servo to the side of the firewall and connected the choke with a ball link and nyrod. I use the gear channel to close and open the choke. Its not pretty, but it is functional. Once I have completed building a Don Smith 1/4 scale Corsair, I will attach the engine to that plane with metal stand-off for a neater installation.

ww2birds

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Mitch,

I use the factory throttle arm setup with the two nuts, but secured by green locktite .. and a ball link screwed onto the arm (also with locktite ... blue here since you sometimes have to take it off). Went to the green after it loosened up once .. fine since then.

Dave

MarkShapiro

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Noah, I was using a 2-stroke Havoline oil that was twc-3 rated. However, when I switched to the Yamalube at 30:1, the engine ran much cooler.

Scott,
Teh red lock-tight on the bolts going to the muffler ring seems to be holding. However, I only ran the engine on the ground once during testing, and not since. Before the lock tite, the bolts would loosen after only a few minutes of running. I ran the engine for several minutes, killed the engine, let her cool completely, and the bolts remained tight.

BigBoy99

Hi guys in the States,

Bernie here from Germany. Thats a good idea from Scott to start this thread, as I can see, there is a lot of interest for this engine.
I'm a little bit astonished, what small props you are using. Here in Germany most are using a 32x18, I take fore my new Sea Fury 1/4 scale
a 32x20, the 250 Moki loves props with a high pitch and hates high rpm's. Ideal is 4000-4400 rpm's.
The hose from the pump to the carb was only at the first 3 hours dirty, now after this time its clear, light grey.
Have you guys too the prob, loosing one of the lower cylinders? The plugs are totally black? Reason is the insufficient distribution of the gas
in the crank case, the lower cylinders gets a more rich mixture than the uppers. A guy here in the german Warbirdforum has developed
a turbulator for the Moki, 150, 215 and 250 model. It makes that the gas stream behind the carb rotate and the distribution is much more better.
The running is more smooth, the two needels for low and high are easyier to adjust, you can turn them more lean, and the consumption is better too.
Best results we had with a combination of turbolator and an electric fuel pump.
Her a few pics of the turbulator:

Bernie

PS.: If anybody is interesting, [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8038201/anchors_8038201/mpage_1/key_Sea%252CFury%252CBates/anchor/tm.htm#8038201]here[/link] is a building report of the Sea Fury.

Maxclimb

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Bernie,

Are these turbulators available for sale?

Regards,

Michael Donovan

nine o nine

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Hi Dave, The loctite scenario I'm talking about is the throttle torque tube threaded joint.
Mine loosened up unbeknownst to me and even though low throttle was selected on the transmitter the engine started at near full throttle! Fortunately my helper held on for the few seconds it took for me to gather my wits and shut the engine down.
While I'm griping........why can't the manufacturer weld the exhaust stubs at a symmetrical angle from the center line? A rhetorical question I guess but if we complain about such a simple thing maybe they'll change it.
Hoping Mike Dooley reads this forum because through him maybe the factory will listen. Mitch

BigBoy99

Michael,

yes, they are available for sale. I paid for it 60€ = ~80 USD + shipping to the USA.
But its it worth, manufactured in a perfect work with an manual 4-5 pages, indeed in german.

Bernie

nine o nine

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I guess the turbulator makes sense....sort of.... Kinda reminds me of when I was young and car crazy. I memorized the JC Whitney catalog whenever a new one came out...yearly???? Anyway it seemed that every other page had a gizmo or gimmick to make your car go faster with better gas mileage. Fans, air pumps, flashing lights. whirling propellors in the carb throats (sound familiar). A joke was that the gas savings got so good that you had to stop every hundred miles or so and let out the overflowing gas from the tank. Mitch

G-Pete

...actually it make sense, because many of the radial engines have a fan blade, turbine style - right after the manifold


....like that...

ww2birds

My Feedback: (14)

Yes, Mitch .. the very same .. the throttle extended.

Whe mine came loose the results were much more benign!!!

Dave

77chickenhawk

Jeff?

Sonoco 110 octane leaded? I use it in all my gassers and love it..

Suprfort

My Feedback: (27)

Scott,
I bought my first 215 Radial from Stuart McKay Model shop in England in 1996 for 1642.00 US. Rember when our money was worth more than the pound? I built the Stearman in 97 and it is still flying with the original engine.
So I guess I was the first in fact I know it. My first flights were at Rinebeck in 98 with the Stearman.
Thanks
Mike Barbee

Aircraft Modelers Research Inc

My Feedback: (2)

Hello,

This forum is very interesting , at the beginning the RCS 215 was difficult to start, lot of deadstick with the Waco33%, we change the 6 volts batterie for a 4.8 volts, after fire miss lot of time, until we found the problem came from the ignition connector, the mall connector was not tight enough, we unscrew the black cylinder ignition, open it and solder the wires directly, since that time it run perfectly with synthetic oil, like the RCS 250 ,



I will suggest this forum in our website .

We are in the process to manufacture a scale kit for the RCS150cc.

Thanks all for the very good informations.

Michel

Scott Prossen

Hey Michel,

Glad to see you've been following along. I'm real interested in your "new" kit for the 150 Moki. Would that be a big Ag-Cat???
See if some of your customers that built the 40% AMR WACO can chime in to offer any advice that is particular to the 400cc Moki. I am getting ready to install one in a 40% WACO and would love any tips about it. Also going to put one in a big P-47 in the next 6 to 9 months, so any helpful tips would be appreciated!

Thanks for dropping in,
Scott

Scott Prossen

Guys, this has been great stuff so far. Thanks for all your time and effort. These Moki's are costly and any mistakes seem to magnify those costs. Knowledge is competence and we can't over do that!

GFoushi, good to hear from you. Can't wait to see that 250 purring along in that huge La-7. Monster Planes should be sporting quite a few Moki's this year. Would be so cool to get a pile of radials flying at the same time. Imagine the roaring sound of half a dozen or more screaming by at the same time!?!?!? So cool.

BigBoy99, thanks for joining us. Didn't they just release the prequel to The Turbulator and Tubulator II? Ha, ha just kidding. Wow a turbulator. Who'd a thunk it?

Maxclimb, thanks for coming by.

G-Pete, see you are here too. You're everywhere and full of good pictures. Where'd you come up with that one? Enjoying your build thread, keep it up!

Mr. Barbee, 11 years of running that 215. Have you any accurate guess on the hours of run time on it? Have you needed any major overhauls on it? Any major parts replacements from wear and tear? What is your approach to routine maintenance? Hope you have time to answer some of these........thanks buddy! See you at Monster Planes this year?????

Has anybody been able to find the organized engine maintenance link that dubs1946 was referring to? If so please post it in here so we can take a look at it.

Thank a bunch guys. Appreciate all the information. Keep it going.

Happy landings,
Scott

David Jackson

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Any plans to do some scale planes for the Moki 250?[8D]

Aircraft Modelers Research Inc

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Scott hello :-)

I did start the RCS400 radial attach to a stand in the pick-up hitch. Let me tell is kind of intimidating if my word is correct ( scaring ) very low idle with a 40-25 , more rpm with a 36-18 ( 3400rpm ) A 250cc radial is more than enough for the Waco40% with a 400cc it will be very powerfull, put batteries rear of cockpit. I never flow a Waco40% with a Moki400cc. Hold your Aircraft ( at least two man hold the Waco for starting procedure )

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJYny-WVm4M

Michel

jeff naul

My Feedback: (16)

I have a small digital e.g.t./ temp guage that i was planning to use on the 150 when i install it in the p-47. the other night i saw that troy built has one they offer. Anyone used it?

Chickenhawk, I know you love the 110, it runs cleaner and cooler e.g.t.'s than pump gas will. But in your earlier post you claimed that it made all of these power improvements over pump gas. That claim i will never believe unless there was factual data thrown in front of me to prove it. I'm not saying don't run it, i'm saying run it because of the consistantcy in tuning and it's cleaner. I have a lap top stuffed full of data on just fuel changes that we have tested on my race boat. When you take an engine (stock) that has low enough compression to run on 87 octane and you add alot of octane it goes the other way. They just cant burn the fuel. We went from pump 93 to Sunoco 260 which is advertised 98 but is checked to be a true 94 and lost 2 tenth's e.t. 200 rpm and 2 m.p.h.

I'm currently looking for different plugs (cooler heat range) to put in the top two cylinders to try to be able to lean the motor more to clean up the bottom cylinders and they be consistant with the top. Getting all 5 burning the same is going to wake up these engines alot.

77chickenhawk

Jeff......"consistantcy in tuning and it's cleaner"............

exactly...

BTW, Jeff Im looking at those e.g.t moniters as well. you could tune it almost perfect..and its a aid in if your air ducting is sufficiant. I bit pricey but i think worth the money

dubs1946

Hi Scott, this is the sticky thread i was talking about, it would be good to get the basics do and do-not down on a Moki thread something like this.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8673009/tm.htm

Scott Prossen

dubs1946,

Thanks a bunch. Maybe when this has run its' course I or someone will organise the info into a simular fashion. That looks very helpful for the long term. This is exactly my hope! Talk to you later.

Scott

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

Jeff, What about using avgas....110 low lead? Any benefits? I assume you've tried every type of gas in your race engines so I trust anything you have to say.....well not evrything Mitch

butlern

My Feedback: (15)

I agree that the choke geometry is a bit of a pain.

Here was my solution:

I will have little or no access to the backside of the motor in my project. For that reason, I mounted my 150 to a false firewall, which has choke and throttle servos and ignition module attached directly to the backside. Everything is set, so all I have to do it attach the gas line and then bolt up the false firewall to a plywood "ring" firewall that is permanently installed in the fuse.

I have been told that the shielding on the ignition is such that I will not have problems with the servos mounted so close. Hope that's true... Can anyone confirm this?!?!?!

For the choke, I made an arm extension out of G10 that I attached to the existing brass arm. This gave me the required leverage for the servo to easily open and close the choke. It works perfectly and I'm happy with how smoothly the throttle and choke function.

Good to know that the throttle arm has a tendency to come loose. Much better to deal with that up front rather than lose throttle control while in flight.

Some pictures below.

Noah