CMP 120 Zero ARF Build thread
#251
Great paint! Good job with your airbrush. Did you pencil that out first or just start with the random shapes?
I definately want to see more of that muffler? You make it yourself???
I definately want to see more of that muffler? You make it yourself???
#252
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From: Hurlock,
MD
Thanks for the compliments on the paint....I saw a photo of a zero...I think it was an A6M3 model 32...with this scheme....I just freehanded it with an airbrush adn I'll probably do something similar on Zero #2.
Below are photos of the exhaust...not that all are silver=soldered except the one closest to the input and the joints closest to the header....just wouldn't take the heat so I ended going back over and brazing them....it's all Ace Hardware materials.



Also made one for a friend with a 120 Zero, but he has a Saito 150....really livened it up compared to my Saito 125!
Steve
Below are photos of the exhaust...not that all are silver=soldered except the one closest to the input and the joints closest to the header....just wouldn't take the heat so I ended going back over and brazing them....it's all Ace Hardware materials.



Also made one for a friend with a 120 Zero, but he has a Saito 150....really livened it up compared to my Saito 125!
Steve
#254
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From: Elmwood Park ,
IL
L16
that looks assume ! I have a question .... being that the exhaust exit is in such close proximity to the fuse , is there a chance it could warp , burn or even damage the fuse ? also how does this setup make the engine sound ? I bet this looks really really cool when the engine is running !
that looks assume ! I have a question .... being that the exhaust exit is in such close proximity to the fuse , is there a chance it could warp , burn or even damage the fuse ? also how does this setup make the engine sound ? I bet this looks really really cool when the engine is running !
#255
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From: Hurlock,
MD
Mike (Zero-322) - I think that with all of the airflow out of the cowling around the exhaust tubes provides enough cooling to prevent any heat damage to the fuse...well, at least after two years, haven't seen any. I think I spaced the tubes approx. 3/16" away from the fuse side, so I must have gotten lucky with my eyeball engineering
. As for the sound, I was really hoping the individual stacks spaced around the ring would give it more of a multi-cylinder sound...but unfortunately, it sounds like any other 4-stroke.[&o]. The cool part is is at idle with the exhaust puffing out of the stacks...but that's the same reason the whole airplane gets gooey....aaarrrggghhh.
Thanks for all of the interest and great comments...this is basically my beater warbird....putting the finishing touches on a Ziroli P-40, (6-year project)...but it'll fly this year!
Steve
. As for the sound, I was really hoping the individual stacks spaced around the ring would give it more of a multi-cylinder sound...but unfortunately, it sounds like any other 4-stroke.[&o]. The cool part is is at idle with the exhaust puffing out of the stacks...but that's the same reason the whole airplane gets gooey....aaarrrggghhh.Thanks for all of the interest and great comments...this is basically my beater warbird....putting the finishing touches on a Ziroli P-40, (6-year project)...but it'll fly this year!
Steve
#257
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From: McAllen,
TX
You guys have done some great things with these ARFs! All the weathering and additional scale details are great! I also appreciate the info on the landing gear reinforcement. This is an all-too-common tale with ARFs and I add as much as I can without opening up the wings. I have the CMP Zero 50 and never thought about panel lines or weathering...until tonight. I also just traded a fully functioning BH Models T-28 - less the receiver and battery - for a CMP Zero 120. I've got a brand new SV 26cc gasser just itching to pull this bird into the wild blue. Just one small detail is missing - the "manual." I can probably put it all together without the manual but where is the recommended CG? I had to practically strap a brick to the firewall of the little 50 size to balance the thing at the proper CG, so will I need to bolt on a cinder block to this bird?
Keep up the great work!
Keep up the great work!
#258
Keep everything forward!
I made a platform that was arranged on top of my gas engine that I mounted my batteries to. It was directly supported by the stand-off blocks. I attached my ignition and receiver batts to it.
I made a platform that was arranged on top of my gas engine that I mounted my batteries to. It was directly supported by the stand-off blocks. I attached my ignition and receiver batts to it.
#259
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From: Hurlock,
MD
How about a couple pic of the completed plane ?
#261
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From: Hurlock,
MD
Couldn't locate the flying pics...I guess I'll need to get some more, but here's some from the pits alongside a friends CMP Zero 120 with a Saito 150 and my ring exhaust.


#264
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From: Elmwood Park ,
IL
what did your finish weight come out to ? would love to hear a flight report , haven't worked up enough nerve to put mine in the air , but time and weather have also not been cooperating .
#265
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From: Hurlock,
MD
Actually, never weighed it....as for flying, it feels like it has a light wingloading and does not bleeed speed well. This is why I will build flaps into my next 120 Zero. Mine is powered by a Saito 125....flies with authority, but not overpowered. ToFly's Zero has a Saito 150 and is a bit overpowered...all depends on your taste. Takeoffs are almost effortless and I find the zero tracks very straight with little rudder required. Tail comes up almost upon throttle up and it flies off easily and probably before you think it's ready...but like I said before, it has a light wingloading. Flying...well, not very different than any other 120-size sport pattern model and flies through maneuvers predictably...no bad stall habits...rolls a very clean...loops track very nicely. Setting up for landing, I find it doesn't bleed speed very well and the first few attempts will likely result in missed approaches until you get more comfortable slowing it down more on base - final. Wheel landings are no-brainers, but it will have a tendency to balloon if your'e too fast and the tricky part is to let the tail come down when it's ready as I have found trying to keep it up on the mains often results in the airplane on its' back and a broken canopy. Three point landings are a nice alternative to the wheel landings, but I seem to run out of elevator authority just before the airplane is ready to stop flying, so it's difficult to keep the 3-point attitude to touchdown. Maybe some additional elevator throw with some expo would help...but I prefer the wheel landings. Seriously, from a warbid standpoint, it is a very easy and docile airplane with predictable stall charateristics....you'll love it.
#266
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From: Elmwood Park ,
IL
I put a Thunder tiger 120 2c in mine swinging a 15x8 APC prop I'm just a bit over 12.5 Lbs , was thinking maybe going to a DLE 30 for a little extra power if need be , did you balance at 145mm like the manual states ?
funny thing is I haven't completed or flown mine, some minor details that could probably be done at pre flight , however I already have plans for another 120 CMP Zero LOL
funny thing is I haven't completed or flown mine, some minor details that could probably be done at pre flight , however I already have plans for another 120 CMP Zero LOL
#267
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From: Hurlock,
MD
Well, it's been 3 years since I completed it, but I did balance it per the instructions...and it is balanced...not overly nose heavy. Just enough...and even on low fuel, it is very stable. It is a very easy to fly, stable and forgiving airplane...but it is fast and doesn't bleed speed quickly....so just plan on making several practice approaches on the first flight and make sure you leave plenty of fuel for go-arounds...after the first flight, you'll be relieved and realize how easy it is to fly....Good luck. Oh, and I'm runningeither a 15x6 or 15x8 APC prop on the Saito 125....your 120 should have comparable performance and save the gas engine for zero #2....I'm seriously considering the Evo 32GX for my 2nd CMP 120 zero...presently waiting patiently in my closet until I finish my Ziroli P-40...good luck and have fun.
#268
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From: Northampton, UNITED KINGDOM
I'm just finishing a 120 Zero with a CRRC 26R engine driving an 18x8 prop and was wondring if the balance pont in the instructions is any where near correct. I know a lot of folks had problems with the 50 size Zero but i'm hopng this is much better when i come to balance it out.
#269
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From: Elmwood Park ,
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my experience is it pretty close to were it should be however you may want to tweak it a little bit, I think I balanced mine at 135 mm from the LE , did you install the older or newer rear carb version of the CRRC , please make sure you post some pic of your work
#270
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From: Northampton, UNITED KINGDOM
Its the new spec one with the rear carb. I'm in the process of running it in at the moment and it sounds very punchy. I've had to order a new 18" prop as the 16" one i originally bought for the V2 engine isn't big enough. This one has got nearly a 1/3 more power. Should be fun!! I'll post some pics for you.
#271
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From: Northampton, UNITED KINGDOM
Is it possible to load jpeg photos to here or do you have to use an internet link? When i click insert image it asks for a URL.
#273
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From: Elmwood Park ,
IL
that looks good ! it cowls in without having to cut up and butcher up the cowl ? I'd love to see a pic of it when you have it installed on the zero, funny the older version came with stand offs the newer version uses a standard mount ?
#274
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From: Northampton, UNITED KINGDOM
CRRC went to standard mount on the V2 version of the engine if remember correctly. I think both have their benefits to be honest. I'll be using the metal mounts that came with the engine, the plastic ones that came with the plane will stay on the test-bed. I'll still have to cut the cowl for the spark plug but at least its underneath.
#275
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From: Woodford,
VA
I'll still have to cut the cowl for the spark plug but at least its underneath.



