Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
Glad to see your preparing to start construction. I have been working on the wing structure and I have started to sheet the bottom of the center section. I took the 48" piece of sheeting and cut it in half. It becomes the top and bottom of the center section. I made sure the bottom of the ribs had one final sanding to remove any excess glue and it would sit flat on the sheeting. I place the sheeting over the plans and glued the ribs and main spar from w1 to the wing split. I weighted and shimmed the wing to fit the sheeting tight to the ribs, tape the edges and now I wait for the glue to dry. See the pixs below!
To the golf course for a little more fun.....both of these hobbies can be frustrating!!!!!!!
To the golf course for a little more fun.....both of these hobbies can be frustrating!!!!!!!
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
SBDdauntless,
Everything looks good. I plan to start my construction with the wings. Should have been cutting today but it was 70 degrees and very light winds. In Oklahoma you stop what you are doing and go fly on a day like this, so that is what I did. There will be enough bad weather in the near future to spend time cutting.
I like your weight ideas, is that PVC with lead BB's or something?
Thanks for the photos.
Everything looks good. I plan to start my construction with the wings. Should have been cutting today but it was 70 degrees and very light winds. In Oklahoma you stop what you are doing and go fly on a day like this, so that is what I did. There will be enough bad weather in the near future to spend time cutting.
I like your weight ideas, is that PVC with lead BB's or something?
Thanks for the photos.
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
Warbirdrcer
Always nice when you get out to fly. Hope you had a good day. Yes, you are correct the weights are PVC filled with copper nubs which are use to make copper cylinders for rotogravure printing. You could also use fishing weights. After I glued the ends on I sanded a flat on one side so they don't roll. I finished one of the pylons and installed the bomb release. They seam to good beautifully. I did have to modify my drawing. I will post the change after I redraw it. Hope to make a few more tonight.
SBD
Always nice when you get out to fly. Hope you had a good day. Yes, you are correct the weights are PVC filled with copper nubs which are use to make copper cylinders for rotogravure printing. You could also use fishing weights. After I glued the ends on I sanded a flat on one side so they don't roll. I finished one of the pylons and installed the bomb release. They seam to good beautifully. I did have to modify my drawing. I will post the change after I redraw it. Hope to make a few more tonight.
SBD
LET GO PHILLIES!!!!!
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
Great thread sbd duantless I have a question do you build any washout into your wings or build them according to the plans? I'm considerimg building a little washout into my ziroli Duantless
Thanks Trevor
Thanks Trevor
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
ORIGINAL: splitzed
Great thread sbd duantless I have a question do you build any washout into your wings or build them according to the plans? I'm considerimg building a little washout into my ziroli Duantless
Thanks Trevor
Great thread sbd duantless I have a question do you build any washout into your wings or build them according to the plans? I'm considerimg building a little washout into my ziroli Duantless
Thanks Trevor
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
I just followed the plans. Ziroli does build that into the wing design. I think he has a 1/4" x 1/2" piece balsa on the plans and you use that for the washout. Check the plans for that long piece of balsa and build the wing with that in place. Keep the wing weighted to the table and the 1/4 x 1/2 until the wing has its leading and trailing edges in place. Then you can remove to sheet the bottom.
#33
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
SBDdauntless,
One of my model flying friends and I are designing a landing gear system for my AD-5 and a Ziroli Hellcat he is building. When complete we plan to modify the design for use in other giant scale warbirds. We have some other design ideas and I will update you on those later as my build progresses. Attached are photos of the side plates for the gear now completed.
One of my model flying friends and I are designing a landing gear system for my AD-5 and a Ziroli Hellcat he is building. When complete we plan to modify the design for use in other giant scale warbirds. We have some other design ideas and I will update you on those later as my build progresses. Attached are photos of the side plates for the gear now completed.
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
Nice looking pieces! Can't weight to see the finished product. How about a scale muffler system. That would be a nice addition. Haven't had much time in the basement this last week. Hope to finish sheeting the bottom of the wing outer tomorrow. Will post some more pixs tomorrow evening!
#35
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
SBDdauntless,
Hate to hear your team lost the series. I was born in Upland, PA but my Dad was a Navy guy so I ended up growing up in Pensacola.
The muffler system is one of the items we are going to fab. What engine ate you looking at powering you Skyraider with?
Well I cut my first part tonight. Will complete the cutouts tomorrow and cut some more if my little helper feels better. He is not feeling well and tomorrow I am on Daddy duty while Mom spends time with our girls.
I hope the next report and photos have more parts in them.
Hate to hear your team lost the series. I was born in Upland, PA but my Dad was a Navy guy so I ended up growing up in Pensacola.
The muffler system is one of the items we are going to fab. What engine ate you looking at powering you Skyraider with?
Well I cut my first part tonight. Will complete the cutouts tomorrow and cut some more if my little helper feels better. He is not feeling well and tomorrow I am on Daddy duty while Mom spends time with our girls.
I hope the next report and photos have more parts in them.
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
Nice to see construction started. Lots of cutting fun lies ahead. Here are some photos of what I completed the last couple days. I have the bottom of the wing sheeted and started to mass product the bomb releases. The pylons sanded to shaped very easily. I am starting the other side of the wing. I flipped the plans over and oiled them so they become transparent. I hope to cut out the wheel opening this week and complete the skeleton for the other wing half.
Yeah, the PHILLIES didn't repeat, but they make it to the World Series 2 years in a row....NOT BAD. Spring training is only 4 months away!
Yeah, the PHILLIES didn't repeat, but they make it to the World Series 2 years in a row....NOT BAD. Spring training is only 4 months away!
#37
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
SBDdauntless,
Your AD-5 is looking good. I really like the looks of your bomb mechs. May have to hit you up for more details later. I started cutting more center section parts tonight. Had to wait until my little helper started feeling like spending some time in the shop. Got one part cut and my daughter and her boyfriend called needing some help with their car in town. More Daddy duty, so went to help. After returning cut parts till almost 12 midnight. Ran out of light ply and stopped. I will post some shots tomorrow of my progress.
By the way, I remembered you said you were using a 3W75 for the powerplant. My plans are to use a DA-85 because I can't find or afford a round engine and I can not find a twin to fit. I will keep your 3W in mind while we work on the collector and exaust tubes. I have a 3W 70 on my Stearman, do you know if the exaust between the two is the same for our design purposes?
Your AD-5 is looking good. I really like the looks of your bomb mechs. May have to hit you up for more details later. I started cutting more center section parts tonight. Had to wait until my little helper started feeling like spending some time in the shop. Got one part cut and my daughter and her boyfriend called needing some help with their car in town. More Daddy duty, so went to help. After returning cut parts till almost 12 midnight. Ran out of light ply and stopped. I will post some shots tomorrow of my progress.
By the way, I remembered you said you were using a 3W75 for the powerplant. My plans are to use a DA-85 because I can't find or afford a round engine and I can not find a twin to fit. I will keep your 3W in mind while we work on the collector and exaust tubes. I have a 3W 70 on my Stearman, do you know if the exaust between the two is the same for our design purposes?
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
Here is the link for the 3W75i....
http://old.aircraftinternational.com...new_motors.htm
Looks like the engines may be the same. Not sure????
Here is a cheap Bomb Release. Don't know the dimensions. Try this link
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXG870&P=0
http://old.aircraftinternational.com...new_motors.htm
Looks like the engines may be the same. Not sure????
Here is a cheap Bomb Release. Don't know the dimensions. Try this link
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXG870&P=0
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
I was working on mounting the gear. And have one in place. The one thing I found is the 1/16 plywood wheel ring is marked on the plans as 6" ID/6.5"OD. The ID works real nice at 5.75". The opening is also slightly off center to allow the wheel to rotate in. Small cuts is the way to get this done. Also started the other side of the wing. Here are some photos.....
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
WBrcer,
Glad to see your back cutting. Did you purchase all the material to complete the project?
FYI...I noticed on your photos that you cut W1A.
W1A is a aircraft ply piece....did you cut it out of lite ply?
I spent some fun time working on my skyraider ordnance. I started on one of the CBU units.
I purchased the plastic tubing from McMaster-Carr. I got 9 four foot pieces. Wish I got 12!
The tube for the CBU are to be 14". I was thinking 12". Oh well! Will made due!
Round Tubes
ID Pkg. Qty. Per Pkg.
0.53" 2044T43 1.19
Here is their web site, look under the cut-to-length area.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#cut-to-leng...-tubes/=4irb63
Here are some photos of the CBU unit I worked on today. I am going to make 6 three for each wing.
I still have to finish the unit but, I am please with the progress I made. Do you any photos of the CBU unit
up close and personal?
SBD
Glad to see your back cutting. Did you purchase all the material to complete the project?
FYI...I noticed on your photos that you cut W1A.
W1A is a aircraft ply piece....did you cut it out of lite ply?
I spent some fun time working on my skyraider ordnance. I started on one of the CBU units.
I purchased the plastic tubing from McMaster-Carr. I got 9 four foot pieces. Wish I got 12!
The tube for the CBU are to be 14". I was thinking 12". Oh well! Will made due!
Round Tubes
ID Pkg. Qty. Per Pkg.
0.53" 2044T43 1.19
Here is their web site, look under the cut-to-length area.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#cut-to-leng...-tubes/=4irb63
Here are some photos of the CBU unit I worked on today. I am going to make 6 three for each wing.
I still have to finish the unit but, I am please with the progress I made. Do you any photos of the CBU unit
up close and personal?
SBD
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
SBDdauntless,
No CBU units on the AD-5 here. I will see if I can get some photos from an AD-5 manual.
The W-1 is AC PLY, but thanks for asking. I went an checked to make sure. I have plenty of AC ply, but most shops say they have a hard time getting the Lite Ply. I did however get my Lone Star package Saturday and cut the remainder of the center section ribs this afternoon. Made such a mess my little helper had to vac out the ban saw. No to the ordering of all of my needed wood. I have a bulk of balsa and plan to use what I have first then order if needed. From what I can tell I may not have to order much.
No CBU units on the AD-5 here. I will see if I can get some photos from an AD-5 manual.
The W-1 is AC PLY, but thanks for asking. I went an checked to make sure. I have plenty of AC ply, but most shops say they have a hard time getting the Lite Ply. I did however get my Lone Star package Saturday and cut the remainder of the center section ribs this afternoon. Made such a mess my little helper had to vac out the ban saw. No to the ordering of all of my needed wood. I have a bulk of balsa and plan to use what I have first then order if needed. From what I can tell I may not have to order much.
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
Nice work on your rib cut outs Warbirdracer, I have a question for you, When cutting your ribs and formers what tool do you use to cut out the stringer and spar notches in order to get them so square and clean? Thanks Trevor
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
splitzed,
On the cutouts, just pain staking time. No not really. I use my ban saw or scroll saw if the ban saw arm is not deep enough. I start by cutting the outboard lines, then cut between them and keep cutting between each of the other cuts until the pieces start snaping off from being so thin. Afterward very slowly move the part back and forth trimming the base of the cut. From there if needed you can hand sand the slots for final fit. My choice is an easy slide fit with no binding. This will allow for less preload on the structure and proper overall alignment. If you have not tried this method yet, try a few test cuts until you get the feel for it, then cut away.
Are you thinking of building a scratch? With ARC, ARF and RTF it seems like a lot of work to scratch one, but the building is part of the fun.
On the cutouts, just pain staking time. No not really. I use my ban saw or scroll saw if the ban saw arm is not deep enough. I start by cutting the outboard lines, then cut between them and keep cutting between each of the other cuts until the pieces start snaping off from being so thin. Afterward very slowly move the part back and forth trimming the base of the cut. From there if needed you can hand sand the slots for final fit. My choice is an easy slide fit with no binding. This will allow for less preload on the structure and proper overall alignment. If you have not tried this method yet, try a few test cuts until you get the feel for it, then cut away.
Are you thinking of building a scratch? With ARC, ARF and RTF it seems like a lot of work to scratch one, but the building is part of the fun.
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
Thanks warbirdracer, I'm building the zirloli duantless at the moment, I bought a cut kit from PCK, I dont think I would have the patience to cut an entire kit myself, I was just wondering becuase sometimes I make some mods or screw up and have to cut the odd piece to make things happen.
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
Splitzed,
Glad to see you on our build. I also have done the same procedure as WBrcer. After I do the cutout I take a miniature wood file and square off the corners. I had to redo some of the parts because I just didn't like the way I build something. It is very easy and not nearly as hard as it sounds in text. My problem are the holes for either lightening or support. They are a little more of an oval than circle....but it works and get covered with sheeting.
SBD
Glad to see you on our build. I also have done the same procedure as WBrcer. After I do the cutout I take a miniature wood file and square off the corners. I had to redo some of the parts because I just didn't like the way I build something. It is very easy and not nearly as hard as it sounds in text. My problem are the holes for either lightening or support. They are a little more of an oval than circle....but it works and get covered with sheeting.
SBD
#48
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
SBDdauntless,
Okay, a little time looking at Charlie's Wing Assy. photos answered my questions I think. How about your input.
In photo WA008 it shows a splice in the spar. WA013, WA017, and WA019 show the angles built in. WA026 I think indicates the spar splice is joined by the 1/8" Ply spar webbing. Photos WA089 and WA090 show the wings being joined with the the proper dihedrial on the other wing.
I see no directions in the instructions talking about this item.
Question: If this is correct did you add an upper doubler to the spar at the splice?
Okay, a little time looking at Charlie's Wing Assy. photos answered my questions I think. How about your input.
In photo WA008 it shows a splice in the spar. WA013, WA017, and WA019 show the angles built in. WA026 I think indicates the spar splice is joined by the 1/8" Ply spar webbing. Photos WA089 and WA090 show the wings being joined with the the proper dihedrial on the other wing.
I see no directions in the instructions talking about this item.
Question: If this is correct did you add an upper doubler to the spar at the splice?
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RE: Kellogg's AD5 Skyraider Build
OK, Let's see if I can answer this???????
Although I am not ready to glue anything yet I have a question. Looking at the plan I am unsure how the wing half from W-1A to W-10 and on to W-17 can be built flat on the building board.
If you are building the right side first you will see a there is a 1/4" x 1/2" Washout shim. It is indicated with slashed lines. Pin that to the board and start laying the ribs in position. W4 through W17 are built flat on the table using the washout shim. Be sure to use waxpaper between W10 and W11. Spray mount and cut to shape on one of those ribs. This is your separation line for the outer wing.
First: Looking at the Front View of the wing it shows a 5 degree angle 5" outboard of W-1A left and right sides. This being the case I am unsure of the main spar being pined to the board from W-1A to W-17. It appears you could build from W-4 to W-17 on a flat surface, but inboard from there would remove the 5 degree change between W-3 and W-4.
The main spar is flat to the table from just outside W3 to W17. You will need to cut a 10" piece of main spar and use it as the center section. I put a line at the 5" mark and place it under W1. So I have 5" on either side of W1. So the remaining main spar is what is built flat on the board with the washout shim. This is because the bottom of the fuse is flat. The top spar is one continuous piece. The bottom spar will not sit flat on the table. I just let the top spar and rib dictate the proper angle for the center 10".
Second: If ribs W-5 and W-8 are glued square to the building surface how do they mate with W-20 when W-20 has a taper to its W-5 inboard side and W-8 outboard side. It appears you would want to glue W-5 and W-8 to the proper angles to W-20.
W4-W17 are actually built flat on the board. If you build them flat W20 will fit perfectly in between W5 and W8. W6 and W7 will take on a mind of their own once the gear rails are epoxied in place.
Third: Also it appears if you build the wing halves flat, the W-21 brace will not line up with the upper main spars at the proper angle without preloading them into place, but this still leaves the question of the lower 5 degree angle.
Ok, this is where I picked up the angle. I took the 10" bottom center spar and aligned the 5" mark with the center of W21 and epoxied it in place. Once set I aligned the top center of W21 with the cut end of the top spar, made sure all the ribs fit and epoxied W21 to top spar while checking the fit between W3-4. I then put lite ply doublers on both side of the main between W2 through W10 The only place I didn't use doublers on both sides of the main spar was behind W20.
I hope this is of some help.
SBD
Although I am not ready to glue anything yet I have a question. Looking at the plan I am unsure how the wing half from W-1A to W-10 and on to W-17 can be built flat on the building board.
If you are building the right side first you will see a there is a 1/4" x 1/2" Washout shim. It is indicated with slashed lines. Pin that to the board and start laying the ribs in position. W4 through W17 are built flat on the table using the washout shim. Be sure to use waxpaper between W10 and W11. Spray mount and cut to shape on one of those ribs. This is your separation line for the outer wing.
First: Looking at the Front View of the wing it shows a 5 degree angle 5" outboard of W-1A left and right sides. This being the case I am unsure of the main spar being pined to the board from W-1A to W-17. It appears you could build from W-4 to W-17 on a flat surface, but inboard from there would remove the 5 degree change between W-3 and W-4.
The main spar is flat to the table from just outside W3 to W17. You will need to cut a 10" piece of main spar and use it as the center section. I put a line at the 5" mark and place it under W1. So I have 5" on either side of W1. So the remaining main spar is what is built flat on the board with the washout shim. This is because the bottom of the fuse is flat. The top spar is one continuous piece. The bottom spar will not sit flat on the table. I just let the top spar and rib dictate the proper angle for the center 10".
Second: If ribs W-5 and W-8 are glued square to the building surface how do they mate with W-20 when W-20 has a taper to its W-5 inboard side and W-8 outboard side. It appears you would want to glue W-5 and W-8 to the proper angles to W-20.
W4-W17 are actually built flat on the board. If you build them flat W20 will fit perfectly in between W5 and W8. W6 and W7 will take on a mind of their own once the gear rails are epoxied in place.
Third: Also it appears if you build the wing halves flat, the W-21 brace will not line up with the upper main spars at the proper angle without preloading them into place, but this still leaves the question of the lower 5 degree angle.
Ok, this is where I picked up the angle. I took the 10" bottom center spar and aligned the 5" mark with the center of W21 and epoxied it in place. Once set I aligned the top center of W21 with the cut end of the top spar, made sure all the ribs fit and epoxied W21 to top spar while checking the fit between W3-4. I then put lite ply doublers on both side of the main between W2 through W10 The only place I didn't use doublers on both sides of the main spar was behind W20.
I hope this is of some help.
SBD