budmo

I made a sliding canopy per Dion's instructions.

Made some progress on the fuselage top and corrected the shape of the rudder per CorsairJock's drawing.

RCAlan

That looks great and sure makes me want to be working on mine. But alas it still sits in the unopened box, awaiting winter.

budmo

Thanks!

I am surprised at how fast the fuse is coming together.
I installed the servo tray upside down.The doublers need to face the top of the fuse. It was easy enough to flip it over and re-glue it.

Its time to remove the fuse from the building board and get some pushrods installed.

Cheers,

-John
Phx, AZ

budmo

I'm trying to find some G10 to build a scale tailwheel assembly (without ordering $100 worth).

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Frank Tiano doesn't offer what you need?
http://www.franktiano.com/scaleproductFrameset.htm

budmo

Yes, I meant locally here in Phoenix, but that is pretty reasonable. Thanks CJ

chilie

Do a google search for "Copper clad G-10" and you'll find lots of places that sell it. I did a quick search and found this website

http://www.minute-man.com/acatalog/P...pper_Clad.html

budmo

Thanks for the info Chilie

RCGuy41

budmo,

Hi go to Radio Shack and ask for PC board, it's copper clad on both sides very thin and light weight. I've built one tail wheel retract for my corsair and am building a second for another RCU member. Please review this build here on RCU http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_70..._1/key_/tm.htm There is a very good schematic/parts list and how to build the unit, finally on page four there is a PDF file that can be opened and printed it's the correct size and that's what I'm using to build the current retract assembly.

budmo

Hi RCGuy41.. How are you cutting the parts out? I have access to a router and a laser.
It's probably too small to router, I want to laser cut these tiny parts out, hopefully the copper wont be an issue but it may not work because of the heat. I'll see if my local radio shack has this stuff. Thanks

John
Phx, AZ

RCGuy41

Hi John,

Okay this is what I did for the second build; I cut out each piece form the copy I ran from pg 4 of the link provided. I then took my kids elmers stick glue and covered the back of each piece and glued them to my PC Board. Being very careful I used my dremel with a snake and using the thinnest cutting wheel I cut out each piece, of course its a ruf cut, then using my small sanding wheel/1" band sander I sanded down each part to the papers edge. Finally I took some sand paper and jewelers files and completed the rest of the shapes. So far I have completed the strut assembly now I'm going to build the main frame w/outer strut housing. Thank Chili for providing the updated plans they are great, with precise measurements for the job. The actuating rod needs to be turned from 1/4" aluminum rod stock to make your shock absorber, I'm going to add a small cap on my shock absorber to prevent the two halves from coming apart. If you want to see some of my work I'll post it if requested.

chilie

I more of less made mine the same way. I printed out my drawings and then used some spray glue to glue it to the board. I used a fiberglass reinforced cutoff wheel. Wear eye protection and a dust mask. Don't try using a bandsaw or something like that. That G-10 material is very hard and will just dull the blade quickly. The dust is pretty nasty too! Once the parts are roughly cut, I just used a table top disk sander and sanded it down to the line. Then use some "goo off" to clean up all the parts and your good to go!

budmo

I 'm going to look into using a small r/c car shock absorber (without the outer spring) since I don't have lathe resources.

-John

RCGuy41

John,

Try using a constant speed drill in a vise w/the rod stock in the chuck, you can also use a sharp chisel to cut the aluminum stock down to size, just a thought, what do you think. I have no idea if you could find a small enough R/C car shock. Good luck on your quest, I'm going to stick to building my shock.

scratchbuilder46

Ok men. I have looked through this thread and cannot find the fix for the Robart retracts. I think I have read it here about larger grub screws or another fix to keep the legs from rotating due to small grub screws. Hope I am describing the area of concern that needs to be addressed. Can one of you point me to the page and post number? I purchased the items I needed to fix this problem some time ago but lost the directions on how the heck to do it! Thanks guys. SB46

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_14...tm.htm#1438302

RCGuy41

SB46,

Try this link http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_14...tm.htm#1438302 , its from Corsairjock; I have seen another modification here on RCU but can't seem to locate the thread.

scratchbuilder46

Thanks CorsairJock this is the fix I was looking for. I just couldn't find it! I bought the inserts some time ago and am going to get started on the retracts next. Thanks again.....SB46

budmo

John in Phx

scratchbuilder46

Back on the Corsair build. Have the main gear doors set up but can't seem to figure out how to open and close them. I want to do this mechanically as the room in the bays is quite tight. Are you who are doing this this way closing them with a vertical driver or a rotating one? I set up a drive that rotates but it didn't work out as the main strut wouldn't close the door all the way. Any pics or hints would sure help. I will tackle the main doors first then try to figure the even tighter tail wheel doors!

budmo

Hi,

These guys have been there, done that on this plane. I found it useful to "search this thread" with keywords.
SmuGator posted some pics of main gear door actuators on post 744. Hope that helps.

I've been working on mine, progress pics soon..

-John in Phoenix

budmo

Flaps and gear doors still ahead.

RCGuy41

Hi Scratchbuilder46,

I did some searching around RCU and have found a few examples of mechanical gear door retraction systems. As an oh by the way, you can use small micro servos to actuate the gear doors, I used that method as afew other guys have also. This website Oregon Scale Aviation http://www.oregonscaleaviation.com/ has a sequencer that works either with air/servo systems or vice versa, check out the pics.

Ice5

Hi all, new but I have been monitoring for months. Getting ready to do my girl so I decided to join in.

If I may, this is for those are now doing their Corsair.
Your answer to retracts is Sierra Precision.. take a look at the way they are made.. price is not much more but for safety, is it really an issue? The strut is already incorporated and the trunion is metal and I talked to Darrell how they clamp down.. there will be no turning here. These are what I will be installing. http://www.sierraprecision.com/prod30.html
Also, for sequencing I have found and put them on my TF T-34.. they are amazing, completely timed for scale movement(or at least close to it). http://www.up-1.com/
Delivery was quick and they have it all.

I am putting a RCV 120sp in mine.. turning scale prop. I cant do that engine out of the cowl especially with all the mods to be done here to make her scale..
Take a look at this: If you want to see some great engineering. I have tried to get another run but there has to be enough need for Wayne at Soloprops to make them in 1/8 size.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_69..._1/key_/tm.htm
Here is a video of this flying.. http://rcuvideos.com/video/Big-Prop-on-RC-Corsair-2
I know Hanger 9 is light compared to TF. Here is another one with TF 120 sp http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5DlvElmXLc
How to mount the hub, http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=US&hl=uk&v=3pagp2fy97U
How it works, http://rcuvideos.com/video/Pitch-Demo

budmo

Very nice stuff.. what's the price tag for all of that I wonder.