xjedix

I recently got back into the hobby and picked up a Tornado BB. I put it through a 5 tank break-in period and have about 10-12 tanks through it to date. I have read some of the stickies but would like to get an opinion on my specific symptoms.

Please bear with me as I do not know much about this car; the issue I am having appears to be either the carb or the throttle linkage. It will start up and idle fine but when you give it a bit of throttle it does not want to return to the same idle. It will continue to move (clutch engaged) at a higher idle until the break is applied then it will return to a normal idle. Looking at the linkage it will pull the throttle arm back just a bit more when break is applied thus bringing it to the normal idle. I am really not sure what and how to set the throttle linkage to correct the problem. The spring is under tension and there is no play in the linkage at all.

After running the car today it has seemed to get worse. I was tweaking on the carb settings and throttle linkage quite a bit so I am not sure if I may have made it worse. At this point the engine dies when the break is applied. I do not think it is the clutch spring since it will still start and idle just fine.

PS: Whats the deal with the pullstart?? It is constantly getting in the way of the throttle linkage?



Thanks for any help,

-Derek

twomanytoys

Is your throttle trim set right on the remote? If its set too high it will never return to idle no matter how you set the linkage.

xjedix

I believe the throttle trim is fine, it is set dead center. Not sure how much it will help but here is a picture and a vid of the linkage. Pay attention to the difference in throttle position on the carb after throttle is applied and after the brakes are applied. There appears to be some play in the arm. Any ideas???


Video- http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v6...t=KIF_6053.flv

FlyinGN

the rod stop on the right (after the return spring)... loosten the lock grub screw and move it back towards the front to make the spring tension more.. This will bring the throttle back to true idle.

xjedix

Thank you for the input. I just got done adjusting the throttle linkage. I ended up moving both rod stops towards the carb and put a bit more tension on the spring as suggested, it appears to have fixed the throttle slop. I also did the paper clip mod to hold the pull start out of the way of the linkage. I will get it fired up in the next few hours and post results.

Quick question about tire/ suspension combo. I will be racing 95% on the street and was thinking of tweaking the tire/ suspension combo to make it stiffer and lower to the ground. I was thinking of going with a standard streetcar rim and tire combo and get some stiffer springs, will this produce the desired results or is there more to it?? Any suggestions are welcome.



Thanks again for the help,

-Derek

xjedix

**Update** I just ran a tank through the car and the throttle linkage problem is fixed. It now idles perfect and drops to the same idle with full brake applied. The only issues I am having is a little bit of a sluggish start off the line (I assume its just the clutch engaging slow) and the shifting. I have not heard a distinct shift since I got it new. Should the sound of it shifting be obvious or is it hard to hear the shift?? I have not touched the shift point adjustment at all; is it possible that it was not set correctly from the factory??

-Derek

webdr

If you have not heard it shift, then its not shifting. Probally set too high. With my tornado and Tsunami (uses the same trans) its very obvious when it shifts. The engine will tach out and then drop rpms pretty signifigantly.

xjedix

**Update #2**

Well I ran another 6-8 tanks through it today and it ran better then ever. For some reason out of the blue it started shifting and was running very strong until 2 tanks later it stopped shifting for a tank. I let it cool down filled it up again, made a small idle adjustment and it started shifting fine again for the next 2 tanks. Any ideas why the shifting comes and goes??

PS: I have read about the clutch springs quickly going bad in these. I am now 18-20 tanks into it and it seems to be running just fine; could they have fixed the problem in the newer cars??


-Derek

Chubbysdad

My Feedback: (1)

Yes the newer cars have a better spring and shoes. Also with the shifting, If you had it kinda rich, it might have not been getting up to enough rpms to shift.

d3d5

for the throttle problem i had that problem from the start and have tried many things to fix it but i just gave up on it but now i know more tension on the spring i will do that right now.

also what is the paperclip mod?

barrenone

i have a tornando xp and an ofna start box i can start my car on the box the wrong way (engin running backwards) when i turn car around to start right way engine wont turn.............what could be wrong with the engine that it would start backwards and not forward

tklemin

I have a bb pro, and found that the throttle stop closest to carb was hitting the servo link( not sure what its called). It should rest against the loop attached to the servo link. I touched it against a grinder to make a little notch so the stop hits the loop( not servo link). It allows just a little more adjustment. Also make sure that the screw attached to the slider that rests against stop is tight.

finevans

How do you adjust the rod stops...sorry for possible dumb question, but I have tried to use different size allen wrenches and they don't fit/ my grub screws seems stripped. Any ideas on this. Thanks

ehroof

you need to loosen the small grub screws in the collar nuts. try a good quality allen wrench, alot of times the smaller ones round out.

xjedix

I just got done replacing mine after stripping one of the grub screws. I used a small pair of needle nose pliars to grab the top of the stripped grub screw and it came right out. I replaced the stops with Great Planes stops, the allen wrench grub screw combo seems far less likely to get stripped.