Thanks guys,
I have a race each of the next three weekends, so Im trying to finish this fuse up while also prepping planes needed for competition. Hoping the hard part of the build is soon over and I can begin the easier tasks.

I have had to just set a goal of doing only parts each day, and making sure to not do too much and rush it, making mistakes is quite costly. Especially in time, which seems to be the most costly thing I have right now.

I love planking and find it fun to do when it comes out right. I hate it with a passion when everything goes wrong!

I went out early today before I got busy with work to get the inside of the lower cowl assembly glassed with pre-cut sheets to size needed,
After this sets up ( I used extra time), I will then look into cutting the removable lower section away.
Im quite nervous that some of my CA and epoxy may have gotten into areas it wasnt suppose to, but hopefully I had enough monkote in those areas

While I was glassing and clothing the inside bottom cowl for strength , I also tri-stocked both sides of fire wall and glassed the back side of fire wall only with cloth after making sure they were square and being careful to not get epoxy in my blind nut areas.

Yes my planking actually came out decent. I will not need much filler on bottom exposed areas.
I have sanded already and glassed inside. I will soon prep out side with spackle and sand to finish and get ready for covering.

I have all my top formers in place and will be back out there soon to install full length stringers and then once again try planking the top. That should be a bit easier as the curves arent as compound.

I already temp mounted the wing using the fuse tail as a reference point, so it is drilled with smaller screws for now, and waiting on tail installation to make sure my measurements were good enough, then 1/4 x 20 blind nuts are going in and tail and wing will be done.

Here are the pics of the top ribs installed, the glass work all done, the wing mounted with 1/4x20 nylon bolts ( I tapped and threaded the bolts straight to the wing mount support and added the two front wing bolt areas.
I also have the tail ready to install, will wait til it is covered.

Looks l,ike the patient will live doctor!

Ha Ha, yes hopefully a long and victorious life of racing!!

Everytime I look at the parts put together I want to cut down that enormous vert stab.
But dont tell Tim, he likes things scale. I do too, but seriously, that stab is crazy big. What was Bruce Boland thinking?
Didnt he know our little imitations didnt need all that for stability like his full size?
lol

Got the fuse planked completely other than the top front hatch area - I wanted it open to see where the bottom cowl should be cut at.
It feels good to get it sheeted !!
The Tail is sanded and fit and ready to glue once covered.
The wing has been test fit and ready to cover
The fuel tank (16 oz) has been placed in to ensure it fits
- I shouldve drilled the fuel line holes thru the fire wall, but forgot, so now I will do it when the bottom cowl is removed

Cutting the bottom cheek cowl is gonna be a chore.
I had marked the areas at one time, but with my sanding I eventually removed them. I have the horizontal area cut loose already, but the firewall side edge and bottom is being stubborn

I took a break , charged 8 lipos, 3 planes,2 radios for a race this weekend, and fired up a new Viper to maiden sometime this week as well.
So much to do as I prepare for a 3 weekend blast from Utah to Az to Cali racing.

Finished all the planking on the fuse finally.
I also cut loose the bottom cheek cowl (some repair work was needed as I got carried away with glue)

I pre installed the engine mount to make sure it all fits, I even put the engine in the mount.
I drilled two holes thru the fire wall for the fuel line
- I will use a 3 line system in my tank as I do on all my YS engines.
- one line goes directly to the pick up nipple
- one line goes directly the pressure nipple with a "T" that exits bottom of plane for releasing pressure after a run
- one line goes directly to bottom of plane or out fuse cowl side for fueling and defueling

I also shaped the top air scoop (not pictured) and will cover it before installing it on top of fuse front end
I am beginning work on bottom air scoop and frt of wing filler to fuse
- I will epoxy these directly to the wing so building these requires the wing on the plane

Looks like its getting close.

Spent my last days here in Utah getting the fuse done and wing along with air scoop and front wing filler.
The front scoop I just used 3/16" balsa frame work with 1/8" sheeting reinforced with tri-stock and 1/4x1/4 as well.
I will glue this piece to the wing once it is covered.
The front filler part of the wing/fuse area I used solid balsa stock, shaped it and glued it directly to wing.

I feel pretty good about the amount of work done in this trip.
Basically what is now left is the filling and sanding prior to monokoting.

I once again also had to take a peek at what it looks like so far along .... I know I know Im a new beginner builder and couldnt resist seeing some fruit from my labor.

Now its time to get back to some races, and more traveling for work.

Here is the toilet paper method I use to apply the finish glass cloth to my planes. It works on the fuselage as well as the wing.
In this video, I am glassing the wing of a 40 sized hyperion KI84 that I have switched to glow and reinforced for racing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoRaNiWWxcc

Tommy

That was very helpful. I may try that. I have always liked the glassed and painted planes a bit more, but been afraid of the weight and mess. I need to order me up some of that material. It looked easy.
I used a squeegy on my wing, and just took many many light strokes rather than a few heavy ones, but the TP method seems to be more beneficial
Thx for posting

Tommy any preferred toilet paper?

Yes, the cheapest, unused, unrecycled stuff you can find.
Don't use any wet wipes.

Single ply, double ply , Quilted ?

How long did you leave it soaking on the surface before rolling your TP stokies?

+1

You saw it real time. It only takes as long as the time required to apply the tissue and then pat it down onto the surface. Once you seer it has absorbed the excess epoxy, you can start the rolling process.

Impressive method. Now you said lighter than 3/4 oz what happens if you try it with 3/4 oz cloth?

I actually use it with any glassing I perform.
It's just more ideally suited to the very lightweight finishing cloth IMO, due to the ease with which you can distort and or cause it to wrinkle when using the squeegee method.
I also have very little cleanup to do once the process is finished.
Also, once the cloth is down ,cured and sanded, you can use the same method to fill the weave so that all that's required is a light wet sanding prior to prime and paint. The second application doesn't add much and the epoxy flows out nice and smooth.

I really like the sound of that!

Tommy Gun is spot on. I usually use 3/4 oz for all my covering and rolling the excess epoxy with toilet paper is easy and mess free. A key point is get the epoxy the consistency of cream using denatured alcohol. Take a throw away brush and brush lightly from the center out.

K.O.

Would it be an issue if I glass the rest of the wing after already glassing the center?
I would like to have a fully glassed wing at this point and it appeared very easy. I will still cover my fuse, but would like the added strength to the wing and the hassle free cover of wrinkles and such too. My fuses stay pretty tight, its usually the wing that plays hide n seek.

That's my standard procedure.
I'd suggest you glass the fuselage also.
You can still use iron on covering over the glassed surfaces.
That's what I did with the P-40.