Well of course we need pictures...What was your set up, AUW, and being in Florida, you must be at sea level (of course) you stated "nothing to write home about" is it quite tame or "boring" for you to fly...I would like to try one here at altitude with snow skiis if one could find them...At the float flys we have at the club, the planes here really stuggle to take off from water...We fly at about 5600 ft, so POWER is the answer...Thanks for reading...Kevin in Denver

Hi,
Well there were a lot of issues with the ARF that Troy Built did not address directly, only stated they would contact China and let them know about the problems. They offered for me to bring it to the building to look at but given the folks that work there, I may know more than them. I passed.

I have flown it four times and it is very scale in take off, scale flight, and landing is easy. Mine has wheels and I just purchased 5 inch DuBro inflatables. I wanted 6" to match the Tundra buggies in Alaska. I was there for 12 years and rode in plenty of them on land and water. I would have more flights but Hurricane Ida took care of that, wind has been howling. May go out tomorrow.

The only neg. flying characteristic is it tends to high bank, chandelle turn, with little aileron input. For a flatter turn I add about 20% rudder and it goes to scale like turn. Note the cheap foam wheels supplied. Axles broke and bent on first hard turn. Had to replace both.

P.S. I put a Saito 180 in the nose with a stock muffler. It took approximately 2.5 pounds of lead and a Higley monster nut to balance to specs.

It does not struggle. It screams. To get to scale speed I drop the 180 to quarter throttle and fall asleep.

I run 50/50 30% heli fuel and cool power M/V 15%.

Nice plane just the same...Yea hurricanes do put a damper on flying...I was thinking of a G-26, but I was told that it would not fly here at altitude especially off water or snow...BTW all the snow is GONE...KID

[quote]ORIGINAL: wl7cpa

Hi,
Well there were a lot of issues with the ARF that Troy Built did not address directly, only stated they would contact China and let them know about the problems.



[size=2]I hear ya brother. I bought a Beaver at TBM's Black Friday Fiasco Sale in November. I have it about 95% done. This is the third ESM bird I have built and I must say they could of done a better job. They must of changed the the fuselage mold as the fire wall sure looks different. I went with the Pull - pull rudder and used a fiberglass push-rod on the elevator. The wing struts were cut too short by a half inch to meet the pre installed blind nuts. The canopy latch wood was cut way wrong. This all added about 10 hours to the construction time but is do-able.

I hope they get the float kit in some day, $100 for those seems like a good deal.

And does anyone have any De Havilland artwork Logo's? I would like to make some decals


[size=3] EDIT: I just went to the TBM website THE BEAVER is DISCONTINUED..[&o]

Anyone have a set of floats for sale?????

Hi,
Wow, after all I went through with TBM, letting them know of the problems, now they are discontinuing it. A@#$holes!!
Everything you stated I had the same problem with.

Decals: In the pictures above I had a graphic company in Arizona miniturize the same logo for Talkeetna Air Taxi in Talkeetna Alaska. They are the guys who fly Denali (McKinley). They were about $24 and then went online for the N Number about $5 each. I'll try to find the names for you and get back.
Roger

I want one on floats, but after reading this I'm not sure...Why don't someone make a perfect and strong arf Beaver???I don't care what it weights...or what it cost...For 500 dollars looks like it would be well enginnered..

I have heard Troy Built discontinued the Beaver and they have no parts for it. Really sucks...for those that bought it.

My friend just bought the E-Flite Beaver. There are a bunch of videos on You-Tube of it and it appears to fly very well. If you want a scale float plane that may be your best bet. I have finished building my Beaver from ESM/Kondor/TBM. It weighs in at 16.25 lbs with wheels. Engine is a 26cc gasser. We are in the middle of a severe cold spell with a couple of inches of snow on the ground so no maiden in the near future.

Hi Tom in Cincy-
I ended up putting about 3 pounds in the nose to balance it. It does fly well. I am on wheels. It is fun to take off and land. Looks real. Flying is "like a Beaver". Tried to rol it the other day and cumbersome at best!. I like the profile in flight. Everyone comments on the looks and realism.

Did you have to add any nose weight for balance?

It balances very close without any added nose weight. I was going to put about 4 oz of lead in the cowl for the maiden just to be sure. I tried keeping all the weight as far forward as possible. Mixing the rudder with the aileron may make the roll to be off axis. I hope it to be well behaved. If it makes me look good on the landings I will very happy with it. Now that all the work is done I am pleased with the results. It does look good. I still have to make some livery decals. I hope to find a high resolution graphic of the old DeHavilland circular logo. I also need a simple logo like "Alaska Air Tours" to run down the side of the fuselage. The stock paint job is pretty snazzy as is.

Tom,
Go to
http://www.dhc-2.com/current_cover_page.htm

dhc-2.com

this is a great site, a guy has spent his whole life chronicaling photographs of every Beaver ever made, along with history. I spent hours on it. I think I am only to Beaver #135....LOL.

many many cool ideas.

The beaver with float is heavy, it is a good idea to put FG 36 on it. I am thinking to put the FG 36 on my beaver too, but do you think it will be a little over power. I may looking for the FG 30 too, but the bad thing is that it is not available yet in US my other option is put an electrical motor on the beaver!

Great site. Thanks for the tip. I got a very nice high rez scan of the Dehavilland Logo there.
thanks again..
tp

Great, glad that helped. It is an awesome adventure that guy has undertaken.

Since I looked at your FG36 installed with sub firewall (It is a good ideal to set the engine in a closer distance). I will do the same way you did in my beaver with the FG36. How many distance you can reduce in you beaver and how does it fly with the FG36 ?

Hey all,
Digging my yellow "original" KMP Beaver out. I plan on using an AXI 5330 on 10S. I had a couple of questions b/c I would like to order some parts.

Esprit sells a nice motor mount for the Axi, any idea on what size?

Could I put the elevator servo in the rear hatch area where the rudder servo normally goes? I was planing on using pull pull on the rudder and cable and pulley for the float rudder.

What servo extensions are need for this model?

Thanks for your time

I bought one of these when they first came out and bought the floats too. . After hearing the problems with the wrong float angle using their non scale float hardwere and the heavy weight of it ,i have not touched in 3 or 4 years . The way to attatch the wing is garbage too and if and when i get around to fixing the thing i payed through the boody for to make it air and water worthy. I will never .i repeat never buy from them again. [:@] They need to do more testing before they sell any thing to people in the hobby. joe

I agree Joe. I bought mine from KMP and it turned out to be a big Turd

I have one built. There were mistakes made in the wing strut mounts. ESM are poorly engineered compared to H9 or Great Planes but if you struggle through them they do fly ok. If I had another Beaver to build it would go together much easier. The plane looks good in the air and flys OK.

Like I said a while back, it flew good on wheels, but thats about it. I struggled with mine and It still sucked. I think one of the problems was the fact that all the float rigging straps were way out of the slip stream. It was like having a bunch of little rudders going every which way. the incedence was off neg by two degrees and the floats were a big piece of ****. there was as far as Im concerned no R&D what so ever done on this at the factory. I have a full scale Cessna 185 on whipline anfibs so I pretty sure what Im talking about

Yea, I'm seeing what you guys were talking about. The wing tube saddle in the fuse was glued in wrong and not strait. The right wing has 5 degrees dihedral and the left panel is 2 degrees. Nice eh.... I don't want to cut it out and re-build.[:@]
Any other ideas?
Thanks

After five pages on this plane, no one has mentioned the Horizontal stab is molded at +1 degree positive incidence. If you used the molded Wing Root template and Matched the Molded wing Root as instructed one will end up with a Positive + 2 0r 3 degrees positive wing incidence. I will fix the Stab and Make it Zero with the leveled fuse. I read one fellow set his wing incidence to +2 degrees. Is this number not too much angle of attack? How about 1 or 1.5 Degrees, this wing is over 2" thick. BlitZ

ok, I'm going to Kit Bash the Crap out of this thing! My next maneuver is to set the wing incidence to 1.5 Degrees.

Hi Noah

Could you please tell me how to find your thread on 95" beaver float setup.
I have had this plane for about 5 years just putting it together now . It is yellow and green main color of wing is yellow.


Thank you
Dana