That is exactly how mine looks in the back, but in the front where yours is even with the front edge of the rib, mine is sitting about 1/4 inch back. I am going to leave it that way because it looks like yours in the back and I cannot figure out how it would work any other way. But, I will fill in the gap at the front to make it a little more aerodynamic.

THanks for the help and the photos.

I also have an OS 46AX on an Avistar. Great engine. I hope the TT46 Pro is as good. I think the TT is a little heavier.

Keith

Joe, can you put a picture of you hookup to the rudder. Mine looks a little wierd and seems to bind a bit. Since the rudder is not exactly straight, it seems to be square with the rudder but not with the wire connecting to the servo.

Thanks,

Keth,
Is this what you are looking for?

Also is a photo showing reinforcement for the nyrods at the servo end. I found its a must to support the nyrods.

I original bought a TT 46 Pro for this plane and took the 46AX off my Ultrastick and mounted the TT in its place to break it in so there would be no issues float flying. It performed as well as the 46AX on the Ultrastick I left it there and used the AZ for SM. The TT is a good engine.

Joe

Mine looks exactly the same. Had not thought about supporting the nyrods, but that is a very good idea. The rudder when is engaged just makes the hook up look a little out of alignment. But, mine looks exactly like yours.

Thanks for all the help. I will let you know how my first flight goes. Do you have the landing gear hooked up. It is a pain. I am considering not using mine at all.

Thanks again,
Keith

Kieth,
None of us flying Seamasters use the landing gear although one guy did once. We seal up the nose gear area to make it waterproof.

We also waterproof any area we can reach with thinned epoxy or some other product.

You will find this is a really great flying seaplane!! Very easy to fly and forgiving and aerobatic also. Can even do a great knife edge!

Keep at it you will be rewarded with a great flying boat!!

Joe

Thanks for all the help.

For Inspiration......................

http://www.modelaviators.org/2007/Fl...r%20Flyers.JPG

Kennebec Valley Model Aviators Web Site

Joe, you have a lot of seamasters in the club. Our club is in Gainesville, Ga, which Lake Lanier was built within and around. Some of the city was even flooded when they built the dam. But, most of the flyers use floats on their planes and do not have the Seamaster. With what you and everyone else has said about the plane, I am a little surprised there aren't more in the club.

I do have another question. Did you shim your engine up on the the engine mount? I read somewhere that it tends to pull when the throttle is cut because the engine is pitched down a little. They suggested shimming the engine up about 2degrees. If I did that what would you use for a shim?

THanks,

Keith

Keith,
I didn't do any shimming on the engine on the two I have put together and am not aware of any of the other guys doing any different as we share our procedures. A couple of our SM flyers are great pilots and I expect one of them would have mentioned the issue.

We have a bunch of float planes amongst the members also but the Seamaster is king when the wind and waves are up.

Joe

Still working to finish the seamaster. I have just been flying this spring and I wanted to get some more flying time before I take the Seamaster out. Two questions. The tail brackets are hooked using wood dowels. Do the dowels go through the fuse and then you attach the brackets to the two ends?
How does the spring loaded rudder drop down when you land?

I am looking forward to flying the plane, but I want to get it built right before I take it out. I broke my TT46 in and the elevator really did shake. So, the braces are a good idea.

Thanks for you help.
Keith

Hi Keith, yes, the dowel did go thru the fuse as an anchor point for the tail brackets. The rudder stays down unless it hits something to make it pop up. Then back down it goes to help control taxing.

I am putting together another Seamaster now - this one is an electric - and did the tail brackets a bit different. I ran a 1/16 brass rod thru the fuse, CAed in place, bent the ends up for the proper angle, and slid a carbon fiber tube over them. Secured with epoxy and microballons. Seems quite secure. Used a bit different angle. Brass rod also on the horiz stab trailing edge.

The rudder spring is quite flexible - made from thin MW.

HTH,
Joe

Cool. It looks like you tied the rod to the back this time instead of the front or middle. Is that correct?

I would also like to know your set up for electric. I would like to have a seamaster set up for electric. It is so much easier to handle out of the boat. I fly from my Pontoon boat and slip where the boat is docked and getting all the nitro gear down to the dock is a hassle.

Would you share your electric set up.

Thanks,

Keith,
I did connect the strut to the rear of the horiz stab this time. Another of my flying buddies did that and it looked better.

On my electrical setup, mine is not quite done yet. The initial motor I was going to use just isn't working out - not enough power even though I ran it thru Motocalc first as I always do before purchase - Rimfire 42-60-480. First time Motocalc has indicated more power than actual results for me. So I have the other one coming in tomorrow - Rimfire 42-60-600.

I am using two TP 5S1P 2200 mah Extremes in parallel, a CC Phoenix 60 ESC, a CC BEC set for 5.5 volts, Hitec HS-475 servos, Spektrum AR7000 receiver. I will probably drop from a 13x8.5 prop to a 12x8 prop and test that setup first and see how close it comes to the Motocalc stats.

I enlarged the front hatch and can insert my batteries that way to save taking the wing off each time to recharge. CG came out just fine. My weight is higher than Matts - AUW is 7lbs 13.5ozs.

Joe
BTW, we now have 10 members flying seamasters! Just a fantastic flyer! The two latest are not in this new photo.
http://www.modelaviators.org/2008/Fl...r%20Flyers.jpg

Matt's is as follows and his site: http://www.mattdyer.com/R-C/seamaster.html
Final specifications are as follows:

Wingspan: 59.5"
Wing Area: 725 sq/in
All Up Weight: 7.5 lbs.
Motor: Turnigy C50-55A 400 kv Outrunner (equivalent of Axi 4120/18)
ESC: Turnigy 60 amp
BEC: Castle Creations 10 amp
Prop: 13x8.5 Master Airscrew E Prop
Battery: Thunderpower Extreme V2 5 cell 3850 mAh pack
Power: 83 watts per pound
Servos: Hitec HS-645MG
Receiver: Spektrum AR7000

Wow, that is great. I may shift completely to EF at this rate. I still like the nitro except for the hassle of the fuel, starters, etc., but from the looks of this you can just about run any of the planes I have Electric. Very amazing. This is really good stuff. Thanks for all your help. I will let you know when I do my first flight. I also have a eflite Taylorcraft 450 that should be here tomorrow. It looks like a great little plane and everything I have read is very positive. I plan on using it as EF. I fly a little Super Cub off the boat right now. Very relaxed and lazy. It is sometimes a challenge to trim out and can be tricky in the wind, but it has taught me to fly with the wing instead of raw power. I also fly an Avistar at the field. Trained on it. Bit tricky at first with an OS46AX on it, but it does a lot more than the normal trainer.

Thanks again. These are all great sites.

Keith

Keith,
Glad you enjoyed the sites. Matt has been all electric for at least 5 yrs now. The largest one of his was a Senior Telemaster - flew great but became too big for his newer vehicles. I have been flying for 4.5 yrs and used electric from day one but also glow and rubber. I am moving to all electric by next year and sold off three glow planes so far this summer and only have the Nexstar on floats left. My Seamaster will be the largest electric for me presently. I do a have a Page 80" Supercub ready for covering.

I installed my new motor on the Seamaster today and now get enough power to do justice to the plane. Hopefully, it will fly Sunday. I didn't get as much power as I expected with a 13x8.5 prop but more than enough. I intend to do some bench testing later with these Rimfire motors to determine what is the issue. May just be wiring, ESC but I will find out.

There are a lot of videos/photos of float flying on the KVMA site - www.modelaviators.org - and a few on my own site - www.maineflyer.net. I maintain both of these sites. Most photos/videos are either Matt's or mine as we both enjoy photography as well.

As far as the Taylorcraft goes, one of our guys has one and there is a great video of it on the KVMA site. Wonderful flyer on floats!

Joe

Update: Two very successful flights on Sunday, 9-14. Great seaplane! [8D]

Hi Joe,
Looks and sounds like you guys are the seamaster specialist.I just bought an ACE seamaster arf and I want it to be electric, you went with a rimfire 42-60-600 motor, is that motor more than enough to pull the seamaster around? I want to make sure I have enough power (no marginal power) Also, did you have to lengthen the motor mast in order to accommate a longer prop? Also could you tell me about the rest of the set-up,where you put the esc, batteries, stuff like that.
I have flown r/c for 33yrs. now and, have been racing pylon for the last 20 yrs or so, but I am SO new to electric. I have been flying a mariner 40 for about 4yrs. and am finally convinced that it is not a good flying airplane. I'm getting the impression that the seamaster is a better flying plane, would you agree?
Thanks for any and all info
J.C. Placerville Ca.

JC,
I have never seen a Mariner seaplane fly so can't compare the two. All the guys I fly with use Seamasters or their personal creations of a Seamaster. Matt was the first up here to electrify his and then I did mine.

I am pleased with the performance of mine. See the video of my second day out (three flights) and you can decide if it has adequate power for your type of flying. I had one of my flying buddies fly it so I could get some video.

http://www.modelaviators.org/2008/Vi...SeamasterE.wmv

Joe
Specs:
Electrifly Rimfire 42-60-600
MA 13x8.5E prop
CC Phoenix 60
CC BEC
TP Extreme 5S2P 4400 mah

Max watts: 807
Max amps: 46.25
Mah: 1944 for a 9.5 min flight.
Not even 50% of battery mah.

AUW: 125.5 ozs