Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

I am gathering up all the components that I need for the Hangar 9 Beast. This is my first plane of this size and I need some advice regarding your systems. The plane is a 100cc. It will have a DA 120 on it with 7 servos. The servos will be Futaba S9156 and 9157 on the rudder. The rx is a futaba R6014HS.

Can you please recommend a system for me?

rrritchey

Hi,
I am not sure what radio you have (12-channel or a smaller radio) and what batteries you want to run but you can start by looking at the PowerSystem Eq6 Plus (our most popular unit) or the PowerExpander Eq10 (unregulated battery voltage to the servos). Let me know if you have more questions.

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

Thanks for the reply. The radio is a 12z. I was hoping you could recommend batteries as well.

rrritchey

HI,
You know, batteries are a personal preference. What ever you are comfortable with. Since you have a 12z and you are not going to have 12 servos in the plane (but more than the 7 you said, have to with a biplane) then you can also consider the PowerSystem Comp 12 Plus or PowerExpander Comp 12 Plus.

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

Its the Hangar 9 Beast. The manual only calls for 7 servos and a throttle servo. 1 on each alieron, 2 on elevator, 1 on rudder plus throttle.

Can you use a123 with the EQ6?

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

With a total of 8 servos , a 12z and a 14 channel rx, why do I need a power system? Can you tell me what the advantages are? I think if I have a better understanding of what the advantages are, I'll be able to decide which one best suits my needs.

Thanks again!

rrritchey

Hi,
Basically the problem is getting the current into your receiver without causing the receiver bus voltage to drop excessively. Standard R/C connectors are good for about 2.5A each and the battery connectors carry the sum of the current of all the servos. When you do maneuvers that call for a lot of servo action your receiver bus voltage drops considerably causing your servos to slow and produce less torque. If the voltage goes low enough it can cause your receiver to brown out and you to loose your connection to your plane. The PowerExpanders/Systems avoid this by providing a high current path from the batteries to the servos through high current Deans Ultra plugs. With the right wiring between the batteries and the PowerExpander/System you will loose basically no voltage to the servo outputs. Also the receive has its own current path and regulator on the PowerExpanders/Systems so the receiver is isolated from all the servo noise and current draw.

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

I'm ready to order one of your systems for the plane mentioned above. I have a couple of questions please. I want the Power Expander Pro with 2 a123 batteries. I am undecided as to which switches I need. If I get the super switch 2 pak, will I be able to charge the batteries through the switches? If I decide on the pin switch, will I need any other switch for redundancy?

Also, based on the plane mentioned, will this system be adequate?

Thanks

rrritchey

Hi,
I would suggest you get the Competition 12 with the Ignition Cutoff personally but the Pro will work. You would use either the SuperSwitchHDs or the Failsafe switch. Any time you connect two batteries to a common termination point (say to a receiver without our system or our system) then you get what the call a "common ground". Chargers are built in such a way that if you try to charge two batteries at the same time with two chargers or even a multiple output charger you can ruin the charger or the batteries or both. There is no way around this. Using the SuperSwitchHDs you can charge through the charge jacks, but only one pack at a time unless you break the common ground by unplugging one switch. If you use the Failsafe switch then you also get two charge jacks (Ernst) that you can charge through, but again with the same limitations.

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

I understand. I think I'll go with your recommendation except I'll order the Comp. 12 plus to have ignition cut off as well. Will I need another switch for the ignition?

rrritchey

You do not have to have a switch on the ignition. When ever you turn the main unit off the ignition will be shut off. It acts like a failsafe switch and will draw about 2mAH per DAY from your battery. The main unit will draw about 5mAH per DAY from your battery if you use the failafe switch. Its safe to keep your batteries hooked up under these conditions for a couple months. The Ignition Cutoff fiber-optic receiver (that goes on your ignition) has a charge lead you can use with a charge jack (like an Ernst) to check and charge your ignition battery.

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

I really appreciate your responses. I plan on ordering the batteries from you as well. I take it the batteries have 2 leads on them?

rrritchey

Hi,
Not sure about the two leads. The Fromeco A123s come with a balancer built into the battery. This is the only way Fromeco is selling these now. The packs come with a Deans Ultraplug connection only.

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

It was good speaking to you today. Thanks for all your help!

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

Robert, I received the unit today and I have pretty much figured it out. The only thing I'm confused on is installing the ignition cut-off. The directions say to plug the jumper into the output block and then to one of the servo outputs or directly into the rx. I'm not sure how to set this up can you please clarify?

Thanks

rrritchey

Hi,
On the servo rail there is a slot for the Ignition Cutoff control. You got a 5" jumper with male on both ends. One end of the jumper plugs into the control port. The other end can plug into either a channel coming out of the Comp 12 you have connected to your receiver or directly to your receiver.

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

Well that was fast. Thanks. How straight does the fiber optic cable have to be? Can it have some turns in the run?

rrritchey

The fiber-optic cable can be bent but the radius of the bends should be bigger than a quarter. This is kind of the whole idea of fiber-optics, you can bend it around a lot and it still transmits the light.

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

Thanks, I think I have it now. I'm just trying to find the best place to mount the cutoff receiver. I think it can mount right up by the ignition itself.

Thanks again for the great support.

rrritchey

Best place is right up by the engine. Best thing is to keep the battery, switch, wiring, etc all up as far to the front as possible, as far from your radio and radio wiring as possible.

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

Robert, I need heavier batteries. The plane is coming out pretty tail heavy. If I have to add weight, I'd rather do it with batteries. What is the next size up on liFe batteries that you carry? Also, are you willing to exchange these? I am posting a link to the build thread , here on RCU, on my plane. I've not even plugged these in yet.


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10..._3/key_/tm.htm

Thanks

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

Never mind Robert, I came up with a solution.

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

Robert, I was flying today and the motor started cutting out. I landed and saw the Led light for the ignition cut off flickering as I reved the engine. I disconnected the cut off and the problem stopped. All of my connections were good. There are no visible problems. The Optic kill is mounted on the engine box with velcro. Do you have any ideas as to what the problem may be? Is there a history of the ignition cut off failing ? It has only been flown about 5 times. Is it possible there is a problem in the PE board?

Thanks

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

I can't get the light to flicker with the plane not running. Do you think its picking up RF from somewhere?

rrritchey

Hi,
Did you prepare BOTH ends of the fiber-optic cable by cutting them with a very sharp razor or Xacto blade? Make sure the jumper that controls the cutoff is secure. Also, make sure the fiber-optic cable is not vibrating excessively while the engine is running.