Rigger for first timer ( to riggers )??
#26
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: North Shore City, NEW ZEALAND
I am still having problems with those formats
Have you or anyone got them in a pdf. format please?
Thanks
Simon.
Have you or anyone got them in a pdf. format please?
Thanks
Simon.
#27
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Lisbon, PORTUGAL
Simon
Here they are
http://www.pirespreto.com/rigger_1.pdf
and
http://www.pirespreto.com/rigger_2.pdf
They are in A3 paper format but the dimensions are on the drawing (in metric system)
Here they are
http://www.pirespreto.com/rigger_1.pdf
and
http://www.pirespreto.com/rigger_2.pdf
They are in A3 paper format but the dimensions are on the drawing (in metric system)
#28
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Hudsonville ,
MI
^^^^ those plans are great. I've already started my rigger but if I make another one, I will for sure follow these plans. Although I do plan on using theses plans to make sponsons for my boat. Thanks for posting these.
#29
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: North Shore City, NEW ZEALAND
Antonio
You are a true gentleman, if you come to New Zealand I will ensure that there is a sufficient supply of cold beer here waiting for you.
Thank you very much !!
Simon.
You are a true gentleman, if you come to New Zealand I will ensure that there is a sufficient supply of cold beer here waiting for you.
Thank you very much !!
Simon.
#30
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Lisbon, PORTUGAL
I accept the offer Simon. 
If I can convince the Mrs. to fly for 24 hours to visit the place on Earth I dream of, we'll have that beer (the whole supply) !!!
Best regards from the antipodes.

If I can convince the Mrs. to fly for 24 hours to visit the place on Earth I dream of, we'll have that beer (the whole supply) !!!
Best regards from the antipodes.
#31
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: North Shore City, NEW ZEALAND
o.k ….. progress report !!
I have now made the running gear that I will need for this little boat.
Yes, made!! 3 days in my shed with a set of files, a hack saw and a bench top drill-press………oh and heaps of sandpaper.
With a few bits of alloy extrusion, tube and a piece of 4mm stainless rod,
I have produced a rear strut and mount, a rudder on a long offset mount and the shaft(s) complete with a motor to shaft coupler.
I am running a uni from the hull shaft to the strut as this is much cheaper than getting flex and couplers etc.
Photos to come soon.
**Update**
My ply ( 1.5mm) has arrived so now I can get to work with a pen, ruler and a f…ing sharp knife to start on this build.
I am going for 1.5mm ply over 2mm balsa for the main skins and will look at the deck covers later. I know that this may sound a little heavy but I am after a bit of strength before performance. I only get to run my boats myself so fast is fast………..who’s faster ??
As always this is a development boat for design ideas.
I have learnt a lot from running my 20” mono with a Kyosho steerable outdrive. That is now sporting a pair of handmade adjustable trim tabs and goes like sh1t off a shovel.
I make, I break, I learn……….. I make, I……
I have now made the running gear that I will need for this little boat.
Yes, made!! 3 days in my shed with a set of files, a hack saw and a bench top drill-press………oh and heaps of sandpaper.
With a few bits of alloy extrusion, tube and a piece of 4mm stainless rod,
I have produced a rear strut and mount, a rudder on a long offset mount and the shaft(s) complete with a motor to shaft coupler.
I am running a uni from the hull shaft to the strut as this is much cheaper than getting flex and couplers etc.
Photos to come soon.
**Update**
My ply ( 1.5mm) has arrived so now I can get to work with a pen, ruler and a f…ing sharp knife to start on this build.
I am going for 1.5mm ply over 2mm balsa for the main skins and will look at the deck covers later. I know that this may sound a little heavy but I am after a bit of strength before performance. I only get to run my boats myself so fast is fast………..who’s faster ??
As always this is a development boat for design ideas.
I have learnt a lot from running my 20” mono with a Kyosho steerable outdrive. That is now sporting a pair of handmade adjustable trim tabs and goes like sh1t off a shovel.
I make, I break, I learn……….. I make, I……
#32
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Hudsonville ,
MI
cool. Glad to hear you got started. I am going to upload some pictures today of my rigger. I am not 100% done with the hull but all the major parts are done. I still need to sand and level out some areas. gppd luck on the build.
#33
Junior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: athens, GREECE
Simon your uni joint version sounds great, what will be the approximate angle between hull shaft and prop shaft? Could you post any fotos of the uni joint,strut, rudder etc? I might try this option too, since I have in my spares a little Graupner universal joint.
Tuning this little beast is tricky but also great fun! Happy building, people!
Tuning this little beast is tricky but also great fun! Happy building, people!
#34
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: North Shore City, NEW ZEALAND
Huge progress today, it was raining all day !!
Pics of progress so far.
There are pics of how I chose to mount the tubes in the main hull and sponsons.
I am running ¼” thin wall alloy tube to join the sponsons to the hull. This is a sliding fit inside the mounted tubes.
Yes I know that there are no outer skins on the sponsons, that is because I ran out of good wood adhesive, we will go to the hardware store tomorrow to sort that out. That is the bonus of the Big Red Truck is that we can park outside any store we want.
I have made a water coil and pick up for the motor but am as yet undecided as to whether to use it. I have started another thread on this issue.
I need to wait a day or two before I can begin painting as the weather here is very damp and cold. The rest of the station would object to me using the drying room as a spray booth.
Once it is painted I will take it to the local pharmacy who has very accurate scales and weigh it: Hull only and hull + running gear inc motor battery radio rx etc.
i.e. Bare weight and ready to run weight.
My 6yo Daughter has some interesting suggestions for a colour scheme and my Wife agrees, o.k so do I !!
Pics of progress so far.
There are pics of how I chose to mount the tubes in the main hull and sponsons.
I am running ¼” thin wall alloy tube to join the sponsons to the hull. This is a sliding fit inside the mounted tubes.
Yes I know that there are no outer skins on the sponsons, that is because I ran out of good wood adhesive, we will go to the hardware store tomorrow to sort that out. That is the bonus of the Big Red Truck is that we can park outside any store we want.
I have made a water coil and pick up for the motor but am as yet undecided as to whether to use it. I have started another thread on this issue.
I need to wait a day or two before I can begin painting as the weather here is very damp and cold. The rest of the station would object to me using the drying room as a spray booth.
Once it is painted I will take it to the local pharmacy who has very accurate scales and weigh it: Hull only and hull + running gear inc motor battery radio rx etc.
i.e. Bare weight and ready to run weight.
My 6yo Daughter has some interesting suggestions for a colour scheme and my Wife agrees, o.k so do I !!
#35
Junior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: athens, GREECE
Wow Simon that is some beautiful metal working job! Have you operated your drivetrain out of the water to check for vibration? But I guess it should be alright, everything looks stiff and strong.
Is your strut made from one piece aluminum, worked using just files and a drill? It looks great, as if it were a machined part.
Have you checked the C.G. position? You might need to place the batteries to the extreme front (even touching the front sponson mounting tube!) to get this right. so maybe you could do a trial component and battery fit to check it out, I couldn't believe I had to push my cells so far to the front (in fact bury them in the hull
)
Is your strut made from one piece aluminum, worked using just files and a drill? It looks great, as if it were a machined part.
Have you checked the C.G. position? You might need to place the batteries to the extreme front (even touching the front sponson mounting tube!) to get this right. so maybe you could do a trial component and battery fit to check it out, I couldn't believe I had to push my cells so far to the front (in fact bury them in the hull
)
#36
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 752
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Belgium - Europe, BELGIUM
Hi,
I just finished my Lindenau Executive H1 rigger and does it fly baby , yeah !!!
Right now there's a Feigao 380/6 in it but I ordered a Lehner 1535/6 wich should take it over the 60Mph barrier on 7 cells.
Enjoy.
I just finished my Lindenau Executive H1 rigger and does it fly baby , yeah !!!
Right now there's a Feigao 380/6 in it but I ordered a Lehner 1535/6 wich should take it over the 60Mph barrier on 7 cells.
Enjoy.
#37
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: North Shore City, NEW ZEALAND
ORIGINAL: andreasturb
Wow Simon that is some beautiful metal working job! Have you operated your drivetrain out of the water to check for vibration? But I guess it should be alright, everything looks stiff and strong.
Is your strut made from one piece aluminum, worked using just files and a drill? It looks great, as if it were a machined part.
Have you checked the C.G. position? You might need to place the batteries to the extreme front (even touching the front sponson mounting tube!) to get this right. so maybe you could do a trial component and battery fit to check it out, I couldn't believe I had to push my cells so far to the front (in fact bury them in the hull
)
Wow Simon that is some beautiful metal working job! Have you operated your drivetrain out of the water to check for vibration? But I guess it should be alright, everything looks stiff and strong.
Is your strut made from one piece aluminum, worked using just files and a drill? It looks great, as if it were a machined part.
Have you checked the C.G. position? You might need to place the batteries to the extreme front (even touching the front sponson mounting tube!) to get this right. so maybe you could do a trial component and battery fit to check it out, I couldn't believe I had to push my cells so far to the front (in fact bury them in the hull
)I have done a dry run and there is minimal vibration, not none but not enough to worry me.
CoG is a bit of an issue at the moment and you are right, i do have to post the battery pack all the way under the foredeck up to the forward sponson tube.
It now has a coat of filler/primer on it and I will start on the topcoat tomorrow, we are all going out to the hardware store to choose the paint colour.
I just want this thing to get up on three ponts as intended and to spit a nice big rooster tail in the process.
No fliping
No rolling
No sinking [X(]
Remember my design brief from the start.
ORIGINAL: Simon.O.
I am after a rigger primarily as a straight line rooster tail spitting speed machine to honk down the pond.
I am after a rigger primarily as a straight line rooster tail spitting speed machine to honk down the pond.
#38
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: North Shore City, NEW ZEALAND
Here are a couple of pics of it sitting in its cradle ready for a final
electrical fit out. The esc should arrive tomorrow, it is a Great Planes Electrifly C30, 30A fwd only
I will give it a go in this boat and if it is not the go then I will swap it out with the 60A fwd/Rev unit that is in my development mono.
Having fwd only is going to be new to me !!
The plan at the moment is to run it and see if it will lift its tail up without the aid of rear sponsons.
I have set the forward sponsons wide for stability in the turns and may narrow them later.
I see no relationship between sponson to hull gap and straight line speed. If anyone wants to throw an opinion in here please do.
electrical fit out. The esc should arrive tomorrow, it is a Great Planes Electrifly C30, 30A fwd only
I will give it a go in this boat and if it is not the go then I will swap it out with the 60A fwd/Rev unit that is in my development mono.
Having fwd only is going to be new to me !!
The plan at the moment is to run it and see if it will lift its tail up without the aid of rear sponsons.
I have set the forward sponsons wide for stability in the turns and may narrow them later.
I see no relationship between sponson to hull gap and straight line speed. If anyone wants to throw an opinion in here please do.
#39
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: mountain city,
TN
looks great simon, you have really came a long way with it. heres one that i built out of 5mm styro, then covered it with real thin cloth and epoxy. the rear sponsons made mine faster on the one before this, so i built them right into the hull on this one. im using an outrunner on this and water cooling the base by having my motor mount go right through the hull and exposed to the water. that square piece is the alum that you see in the pic of the bottom. these outriggers are fun, no matter how you make them.
good luck.
john
good luck.
john
#42
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Hi
Im also a newbie in rc boats and is looking forward to build this rigger, i've downloaded the dwg file but im confuse with this metric systems or the exact dimension. I would be grateful if someone could tell me how to convert it to cm so that when i print the paln i can get the exact dimension to build the parts
Thanks
Fred
Im also a newbie in rc boats and is looking forward to build this rigger, i've downloaded the dwg file but im confuse with this metric systems or the exact dimension. I would be grateful if someone could tell me how to convert it to cm so that when i print the paln i can get the exact dimension to build the parts
Thanks
Fred
#43
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: mountain city,
TN
#44
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: North Shore City, NEW ZEALAND
I gave it its first run today.
It did not sink so that is good !!
It sits very low in the water, but that is normal to me from my full scale hydro days as a safety diver.
If I hit full power it appears to pop up out of the hole easily.
If I try to slowly accelerate then it want s to do a submarine impersonation. O.k so full power from idle is the go then !!
I set it up to run with the tail-shaft angled a little down to produce lift on the rear. I suspect that this had the effect of not letting the prop run up to full rpm.
I have now set the tail shaft at 0 deg (flat) and will try that in the morning. It is very wet here right now and I hope that the weather will clear so that I can get a few runs in the morning before the sail boats turn up, they seem to have some sort of “ownership” of the pond. [&o]
Btw my hand made water cool system works, a nice trickle of water out the side shows that there is flow…………..cool !!
It did not sink so that is good !!

It sits very low in the water, but that is normal to me from my full scale hydro days as a safety diver.
If I hit full power it appears to pop up out of the hole easily.
If I try to slowly accelerate then it want s to do a submarine impersonation. O.k so full power from idle is the go then !!
I set it up to run with the tail-shaft angled a little down to produce lift on the rear. I suspect that this had the effect of not letting the prop run up to full rpm.
I have now set the tail shaft at 0 deg (flat) and will try that in the morning. It is very wet here right now and I hope that the weather will clear so that I can get a few runs in the morning before the sail boats turn up, they seem to have some sort of “ownership” of the pond. [&o]
Btw my hand made water cool system works, a nice trickle of water out the side shows that there is flow…………..cool !!
#46
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 752
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Belgium - Europe, BELGIUM
hi,
This is a lttle film I shot during our last Championship a couple of weeks ago. It's a H1 outrigger competition on 7 cells.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6Mn7KGJuHM
This is a lttle film I shot during our last Championship a couple of weeks ago. It's a H1 outrigger competition on 7 cells.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6Mn7KGJuHM
#47
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: North Shore City, NEW ZEALAND
I ran it today with two different props.
35x1.4 = 35mm dia x 49mm pitch converts to 1.4” x 1.9”
40x1.4 = 40mm dia x 56mm pitch converts to 1.6” x 2.2”
Wit the smaller prop not a lot happened. [
]
Once I put the bigger prop on a few things began to show.
I had fitted a set of rear sponsons or ride shoes. This helped to lift the rear up.
I think that the trial ride shoes were a little deep as the nose went down at full power.
I pulled the ride shoes off as they were only taped on and I found that the 40mm prop had close to enough lift to get the little boat up on the plane as it is supposed to.
I have now made a set of less aggressive rear ride shoes / sponsons / lift pads, F-it call them what we want, and I will trial them in the morning.
I have gone back to another pond that is closer and has no wind thieves [>:] so I have all the water to myself.
35x1.4 = 35mm dia x 49mm pitch converts to 1.4” x 1.9”
40x1.4 = 40mm dia x 56mm pitch converts to 1.6” x 2.2”
Wit the smaller prop not a lot happened. [
]Once I put the bigger prop on a few things began to show.
I had fitted a set of rear sponsons or ride shoes. This helped to lift the rear up.
I think that the trial ride shoes were a little deep as the nose went down at full power.
I pulled the ride shoes off as they were only taped on and I found that the 40mm prop had close to enough lift to get the little boat up on the plane as it is supposed to.
I have now made a set of less aggressive rear ride shoes / sponsons / lift pads, F-it call them what we want, and I will trial them in the morning.
I have gone back to another pond that is closer and has no wind thieves [>:] so I have all the water to myself.

#48
Junior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: athens, GREECE
@Simon:
That was the case with my rigger, too! There is a remarkable difference between the 42 mm prop and some 33s and 36s!(regardless of motor setup:brushed with 6 cells or brushless with 10 cells) Now I'm considering trying something with more pitch in the 40mm area to see if I can get more speed out of my brushless motor (which, by the way, gets really bored with 10 cells and is crying for 2-4 more cells! I just don't have any space for them now
in the hull, unless I make some conversions to it)
For the time being I'm busy making a strut with flex drive, cause the angled prop (14 degrees negative angle) seemed to produce too much lift in the rear, causing the stern to "jump" from time to time. I'd better get some more speed and stability out of this conversion, because I've already torn apart the old shaft tube!
@Frederic:
Antonio already answered your question, you can also check your email
@everyone:
I have filmed some runs with my Olympus digital foto-camera(I think they are .mov files, no more than 60 Mb appx.) and have been trying to upload them to youtube, which accepts .mov format, but at the end of the upload I get a "failed" message and the videos won't play online. Suggetions anyone?
That was the case with my rigger, too! There is a remarkable difference between the 42 mm prop and some 33s and 36s!(regardless of motor setup:brushed with 6 cells or brushless with 10 cells) Now I'm considering trying something with more pitch in the 40mm area to see if I can get more speed out of my brushless motor (which, by the way, gets really bored with 10 cells and is crying for 2-4 more cells! I just don't have any space for them now
in the hull, unless I make some conversions to it)For the time being I'm busy making a strut with flex drive, cause the angled prop (14 degrees negative angle) seemed to produce too much lift in the rear, causing the stern to "jump" from time to time. I'd better get some more speed and stability out of this conversion, because I've already torn apart the old shaft tube!
@Frederic:
Antonio already answered your question, you can also check your email

@everyone:
I have filmed some runs with my Olympus digital foto-camera(I think they are .mov files, no more than 60 Mb appx.) and have been trying to upload them to youtube, which accepts .mov format, but at the end of the upload I get a "failed" message and the videos won't play online. Suggetions anyone?
#50
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Hi guys
Thanks so ,much everyone for all your help, actually my cad application mess up all the dimensions on the plan [:@]. So will try start building next week, i think i'll use 2mm balsa and get them epoxied.
Thanks
Thanks so ,much everyone for all your help, actually my cad application mess up all the dimensions on the plan [:@]. So will try start building next week, i think i'll use 2mm balsa and get them epoxied.
Thanks


