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Predator Outrigger Project

Old 08-16-2008, 10:46 PM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

Your rudder looks good but I think in the picture of the of the prop shaft and prop you have the prop tipped down too much at the back
It will be trying to lift the boat more than it will be trying to push it forward
Get it going like this but I think you will want to raise the shaft some to flatten out the angle
Old 08-17-2008, 05:17 AM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

nice built mate
pretty profeshinal looking i must say my self and i would have stuck with that canopy as it looked pretty sweet, how ever i made my own out of balsa wood about 0.5mm thick as you can see its curved and i know its been set in at the rong angle(where its flat at the rear pik shows)

the prop angle looks abit sevier but it should work fine shouldent be any problem with getting it on plane at the back,

and with the weight mines a 3cell brushelss set up and weights 480 gramms EXCLUDING prop shaft,prop housing, coupler and the prop. i have not installed these yet because i bought a M2 size shaft and am rinning a m4 shaft down the M2 shaft housing so am having some custom bushes machiened so that it runns perfectly =D

looks good though mate,ohh and im 15 so i know the wave legnth your on =)
keep it up
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Old 08-18-2008, 01:45 PM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

Nice, another 15 year old!

about the prop angle, I will probably run it like that at first, then do some quick mods... although I hope that I can scrounge up some money for a flex shaft setup in the future.
last night I got a lot done, I finished the steering linkage and all of its components, then I glued the top on, and filled in some pinholes and dents. The electronics covers are also finished, complete with velcro and weatherseal foam. Tomorrow after morning practice I hope to have the first coat of primer on it.

The boat stand will be finished very soon also... its made out of insulation foam. Pics will be up this evening.
Old 08-18-2008, 02:14 PM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

ISIRC10

The drive line angle is way too large. You will want a flex cable to make it run neutral or only angled a few degrees. A flex shaft is only about 10 dollars including drive dog, nut, and stub shaft. A strut can be fabricated or bought for as low as $15.

Ryan
Old 08-18-2008, 05:23 PM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

where can I get it, and what one should I get? I cecked OSE and all of the stuff they had on there was confusing (aside from buying that part, you would need this, that, and something else... ect)
the main thing about the flex shaft thing is that I will need to buy a prop and connector (shaft to motor), and I have no clue where to start with the prop selection... and what diameter flex I should get
another question: will I need some special copper bushing thing on the strut, or will I be able to use a plain copper tube?
those are my main concerns before making the purchase - I can make the stuffing tube and hardware easily.
Old 08-18-2008, 06:24 PM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

pics before primer.

note, the ballance point is a BIT in front of the wooden block, hopefuly it isn't too far back
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Old 08-18-2008, 06:52 PM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

I am converting my Predator to flex drive-using .098 flex cable and 1/8" shaft from OSE.It comes with drive dog and prop nut but you also need 1/8-.098 flex hex motor connector.I am making my own strut but they also have the Octura strut for 1/8" shaft.I will be running a Octura X432 prop which is great for 540-550 size motors.This is the same setup I have on my Classic Roundnose Hydro.Both run 15 turn motors on 6 cells.
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Old 08-18-2008, 09:37 PM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

If you are building for future plans which include running a high brushless system use .130 flex to a 3/16" stub shaft stepped down to 1/8"

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=oct-oc64pkg

You could make your own stut but I would recommend purchasing one.
If you make your own you would have to purchase 2 brass sleeves (technically bushings) that are ever so slightly larger than the 3/16" stub shaft. Then fit these 2 small sleeves (bushings)in a larger brass tube so that there is a small bushing on either side supporting the stub shaft and one long tube holding those pieces. Next you would solder on some thin hard brass sheeting to complete the strut.

Something similar to this
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=sol-strut

Couplers
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/products.php?cat=68

Ryan
Old 08-18-2008, 11:23 PM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

Ill second the 1/8 shaft(.130 .125) 3/16 stun drop down to 1/8 you could just buy the strut blade from fullers fast electrics or someplace and make your own bracket to save cash, it will most likley come with a bushing installed already- or like above make a bushing if need be.
prop's to try are 432-632-1732- also if you can solder good buy the octura flex kit from offshore it saves some cash if you "do it your self" stuffing tube is a 7/32" K&S brass tube (using no teflon liner)

here are a couple pictures of a bearing I made for my solinger strut , last picture is of the new bearing next to the stock bearing



Old 08-19-2008, 07:24 AM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

well, I looked around OSE and decided to buy the .098 to 1/8 shaft, since I will only have one brushless motor and it will be in my car (I think )
the pic below shows my purchase - I allready have the stuffing tube.
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Old 08-19-2008, 11:50 AM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

That is exactly what I put in my roundnose -the teflon tube had to be sanded a little to fit in my stuffing tube.I made my own strut bracket which is not hard to do.You need some silver solder to assemble the flex to the solid shaft.There is enough flex to make an extra shaft should you need it.May not be beefy enough for brushless but is fine for 500-600 size brushed setups [I don't use brushless].[8D]
Old 08-19-2008, 01:07 PM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

I would recommend using Red Permanent Loc-tite for the stub to flex shaft connection rather than solder. This avoids the need to have good soldering skills as I've seen way too many soldering jobs break on the stub shaft.

This is what I do for my 55mph 7.4v Rigger.

Ryan
Old 08-21-2008, 06:08 AM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

hi i have been reading this thread with interest and i am going to install a flex shaft in my rigger(piks further up his page) i have a brushless 3500KV motor what size flex shaft would you recoment as in what diamiter 3/16 or 1/4 because sporty greg seems to think the 3/16 would be to small and would screw up

any input would be help full thanks
tom
Old 08-21-2008, 07:14 AM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

First off we have no clue what motor you are talking about. 3500kv only tells us how fast your motor will spin with a given voltage.

If you are putting this motor in a predator I would have to assume that it is no longer than a S size can. We use .130 flex shaft which is just over 1/8"
3/16 or 1/4" is far too large!

Ryan
Old 08-22-2008, 06:53 PM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

I think that he is mixing up the flex diameter and the prop shaft one... a .098 is a bit thin for BL

and his boat istn't a prodator outrigger, its a mini from the looks of it.

Back to the build... hardware came today, so I installed it, and I must say, the flex shaft is much smoother than I thought. balancing and sharpening props is a PITA, but I quess its gotta be done - my first try yeilded some good results (after reading up on some articles on the other threads...)
My question is, should I polish the inside of the prop (the cup) or leave it rough - or will it not make such a drastic difference with brushed speeds?

another question, can I just rout the water pickup under the ridepad as in the pics, or do I have to stick it into the propwash?

Thanks guys, you have been a great help so far, and I am soooo close to getting the boat into the water - finish priming and then a simple coat of red (yeah I know thats kinda booring but I realy don't feel like going through with the two color thing... [&o])
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Old 08-22-2008, 08:06 PM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

stick it in the prop wash-you'll create unwanted drag if you run it like that
Old 08-22-2008, 08:27 PM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

As TT said, place the water pick up tube behind the prop about 1/2 the way down from the top of the upper blade. (Above the prop center line)

You can polish if you wish. I don't bother, I just sharpen balance and thin certain props.

Ryan
Old 08-23-2008, 06:03 PM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

watching paint dry is not very fun...

IDK whether I will go with plain gloss red of perhaps have some flat black stripes on top... I'll just paint the red, then see how it looks. BTW, this prep work is the most I've done on a boat, as the sponsons and hull are flawlessly smooth! that should give me a nice glossy finish when I spray on the red. [sm=71_71.gif]
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Old 08-25-2008, 11:12 AM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

well, did bathtub trials today and no water is coming in. she seems to be riding nice in the water, and the prop seems to have quite a lot of thrust (that was a relative expression - its my first metal prop)
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Old 08-25-2008, 01:54 PM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

did some test runs at the local pond, seemed to get a bit of water in the hull, especialy when stopping. It accelerated well, and turned nicely, although some turn fins couldn't hurt. I will upload a video later when I find the cable for my camera. The amount of water that I got in the hull kinda worries me - my main guesses would be the stuffing tube or cooling system, although taping down the hatches did help reduce the amount inside - I didn't really notice if the water was flowing out of the cooling system, but checking in the tub, it seemed to work fine without any leaks.
Old 08-25-2008, 07:22 PM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

here is the vid. It is a bit short cause it was thundering and I didn't feel like getting nailed by lightning so we packed up and left. its cut short cause I assumed my mom could operate the camera but, well, I guess that not everyone is used to pressing buttons...

[link=http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/cc21/ISIRC10/?action=view&current=lol.flv]maiden voyage[/link]

as you can see, there wasn't much of a rooster tail, a lot of splash from the sponsons and a bit of skidding in the corners... how can I fix this? I would also like to ge a bit more speed, as the acceleration is good, but top speed suffers. yeah, I know I am running a stock brushed can, but I am sure that either I am running the drive at the wrong angle, or the wrong height. (I think thats the problem [&:])

Oh, and tomorrow I will go to a bigger lake for some longer runs... that should allow me some time to tune it up.
suggestions and help are appreciated - afterall, I got this far. (please don't be afraid to tell me that I am overreacting if I am, cause this is the fastest boat that I have built to date)
Old 08-25-2008, 08:26 PM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

Oh, and if this requires going BL, what feigao should I get for running 6 cells?
(yeah I know that they are cheap knockoffs, but in my case, I'm not going to be racing this thing)
I just need something that will increase my speed a bit - probably in the thirties. I also don't want to mess up my flex shaft (or wallet), so no LIPOs or insane motors, just a bl setup that will add some extra mph...

( yeah I realize that was kinda a noob question, but this is going to be my first brushless boat, and I need to take it slow)
Old 08-25-2008, 09:10 PM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

Every rigger needs a turn fin. This will keep a sponson planted in the corners and prevent sliding. Search for them on google or here for a visual or more info.

The rooster needs more power to get larger. I'm not sure exactly how your prop height is setup up as it obviously plays a large role. Excelleration is good because it's light and using a larger prop for it's size and weight. Speed suffers because the motor is too weak to really air the hull out.

A Feigao 540 8s on 6 cell NiMh using an 80A ESC such as the old Cuda 80 would work great. An X430 prop would suit it well. It will be in the 30's.

EDIT: Found a photo of my E1 hydro just for you!!

Ryan
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Old 08-25-2008, 09:33 PM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

heres a picture of a blizzard kit boat I built a awhile back and how the turn fin is mounted on it the predator plans have a spar and turn fin pattern to go by



Also here is what a Feigao (if i remember right 7s) and cooling jacket look like in the hull not a ton of extra room side to side with the cooler and the predator is the same hull as a blizzard just has a couple extra inches added to the length
Old 08-26-2008, 02:52 AM
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Default RE: Predator Outrigger Project

Wow this boat has a reverse!
nice finish, what is total weight?
good CG it will go fast with goog setup
nice to see so many predator makers inspired

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