martno1fan

Looks different should work fine though,one thing i do see that i dont like is the bend in that stuffing tube it looks very sharp,you should really angle your motor down more that way you can have a much more gradual bend .Also id have bought some rubber isolators for your mounts rather than use those rubber grommets or washers i can see.
Mart

gojoecrewchief1

Lol there are a few ponds and lakes around the area itll be a drive for the big lakes but worth it!

Tidnab

My Feedback: (51)

Duals out of a can.Neat idea Ed.You're raising the bar for Joe.He 's probably already been to the hardware gathering up parts.

gojoecrewchief1

nah but thats ok youll see

bullboy8

I think I got lucky with the backpressure bein just right because with that exhaust and George's carb... That engine has a heck of a quick rev. and she sounds really cool! Sounds like she has glass packs on, when it cycles with a snaping sound. and when it comes down off of a rev it purrrrrrrrs. About the bend in the flex tube, it may look like a big bend but it really only bends down about an inch over 3 1/2 inches. It may be more than a hi pro boat but the flex shaft rolls real smooth in it. Although I wish I could have less of a bend, but with CG in mind, servos, and the bulky plastic housing (tryed to take as much off as I can) that is were it had to sit What do you do though. Any Ideas are welcome. Do you guys really think that top will be to heavy? I wieghed it and it was just a smidge over a pound. that scoop is ali so its not to heavy. I am gonna shave it down a bit to lower it. I'm preping the surface for round to of paint job, and i'm really researching on what is fuel resistant, and as of now I have found nothing..... Please help!! I don't want to spend $100.00 on paint though. and I really would refer not to take it to get painted. I would like to do it myself. I am going to the John Deare store tomorrow and see what they have for tractor paint because I used that stuff before for and seems to hold up fine, but if anyone, ANYONE has any other ideas please let me know. Thanks again everyone!! and JOE.....I'm counting on you buddy! Lets get them out this weekend you bring the fishing pole LOL

martno1fan

See your other post as regards paint as for the top canoipy its too high in my opinion and will only slow you down,not a good idea on a weedy powered boat where every bit of aerodynamics is needed to get the best out of the motor.As regards your bend just tilt the motor more probelm solved .
Mart

gojoecrewchief1

reposted some pictures had to relearn how to do that. they are 1 page back at the bottom.

Joe

gojoecrewchief1

RC = Real Car......dad's Yep this is how i grew up at least it was a great experience learning from various friends and makes me enjoy making things perfect

gojoecrewchief1

Hey guys i got my exhaust figured out i used 3/8" pipes out the top by drilling two holes in the top 3/8" then sliding the pipes in and welding them on.

Let me know what ya think!

bullboy8

Going the hot rod rought...I like

martno1fan

Looks good dont forget to plug up the other two .
Mart

gojoecrewchief1

Actually the other two you refer to are where the exhaust bolts go through the engine so that would be bad if i plugged them up [:@] thanks for the good comments though and ill post a video once i get it all tuned in.

bullboy8

Alright everyone, I'm painting the boat for the final! I have picked Pastikote tractor & implement paint, and Plastikote clear coat. Everyone has told me that is a good choice. If anyone has any pointers when painting/curing/preping be my guest t tell me. My main question is how long should I wait unil to apply the clear after spraying it? and what do you guys think is a good time to wait to start bolting things on and stuff after final clear and paint? The can says 48 hours, but I feel it should be longer, am I wrong?

gojoecrewchief1

In this Arizona heat, cure times drop dramatically so at 48 hours or a bit more if you want you should be able to bolt things Ed. As for the clear as long as you are using their brand of clear it should say the length of times between coats. which is usually about 30min - 1hour. Are you going to do any details on it at all? i would not clear it until those are done and clear over everything but im sure you knew that already.

Joe

bullboy8

Hey Joe thanks, but thats what I thought also and 72 hours later last time I still could put my finger nail into it, and were the stingers hooks wrinkled the paint. I guess a week is a safe bet, you think?

gojoecrewchief1

seems pretty odd that it would not be ready... but this is my edit i remembered if you put a paint on too thick before it cures it will take alot longer to dry ALOT>>> put thin/lite coats for the first 2 and let them dry then put a good cover on and it should be good but a week should be enough if thats the route ya wanna go. That guy ever finish the drive last night never heard from ya.

gojoecrewchief1

Some pics of the work ive been doing yesterday and today. I just got all of my hardware in and waiting on my drive to be built should only be till monday so i might as well do the rest of the deck on the boat while waiting.

bullboy8

lokking good joe hopefully your stinger willbe done by monday[>:] or i'll run him through an end mill LOL

gojoecrewchief1

Hey everyone! Thanks Ed, yep the stinger would be very nice to have cause i could get it all mounted n stuff but no worries. I had plenty to work on today, I got the rest of the boat glued and i think that i put a bit to much of a bow in the hulls deck as it was a pita to get taped and held down used gorilla glue and planning on epoxying it to finish it up. I have time while the glue was drying so i buffed and put together my head of the river rudder and red loctited the bolts and nuts "even though they are lock nuts " I got my shaft started just need to figure out how long the drive is gong to be exactly to finish that up shined that up too. Eric thanks for the prop it seems to be ready to go! [>:] I do not have a prop balancer and i would like to know is there a way to balance it easy without one??? Here are some pics of all the things i did today!

bullboy8

hey joe make sure you set screws will be flush, if not into the ferrule so you don't stand them hitting inside of the stinger Yah I loctited all mine also, because the first time I started her up two of the lock nuts worked right off. I'm curious if there is an easy way to balance the prop with out a balancer as well...

bullboy8

Alright got her painted up, and the decals on...PUTTIN' JOHNNY is the name (sentimental value to it), now i'm off to go drop her to get it cleared oh yah! By wednesday I should be able to give it the seal of completion....for the most part (the fidgeting and tweaking never stops) Let me know what you all think, input appreciated.

Dreamin Hemi

John Deere Green? Thought of doing on one of my boats in green. Can't wait to see it cleared! Nice work on this project, well done.

bullboy8

Thanks for the complement Dreamin, yah I can't wait to see it clear also!! I like my choice of color and it will probablly be easier to see out on the water than black LOL

gojoecrewchief1

the deck is glued and mostly sanded. what do you think?

martno1fan

Boats look good guys keep up the good work,as fore balancing props you can make a balancer using two razor blades embedded into a block of wood then sit the prop on your stub shaft and balance it on the blades it does work pretty good but its not as good as a magnetic balancer.Make sure you only remove material from the correct face of the prop,heres a few videos on how to do it.You should find parts two and three on the link.
Mart
[link]http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=hIg7-0qWekc&feature=related[/link]