specialk1

Lol never too late to join the party

chyer

Happy New Year....
With luck, you can still find beautiful things.
To date, there was still a missing Tiger Shark Outboard version.
Now I have a ...

Tribula

Hello everyone, de SpecialK, great job on the postings And your YouTube video's, helped me to buy my first amps, I'll post pictures shortly,

im desperately in need of advise and a spare u joint coupler for this boat (pictures follow shortly)

all advise welcome!

Q. how do I figure that I have the right amount of gear oil in the "z" drive?

Tribula

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specialk1

So glad to hear this unfortunately most of us aren't really on this website anymore we have moved over to Facebook look up amps International Hobbies we are all over there

STVBOB

Would any one happen to know where the buy a replacement cowl for a International Hobbies Outboard, Mercury, Thank you

jbbodz

cybercrxt

My Feedback: (3)

Hey, send me an email, [email protected]. I have molds, and possibly an original cowling. Thanks, Mike, www.mlboatworksrc.com

ace16

My Feedback: (4)

Still have the AMPS hull shown in post #2202
If anyone is interested drop me an e-mail. I don't get on here much.
[email protected]

Chris.fr

My Feedback: (1)

Hello, does anyone knows if it is possible to get a pair of stickers "AMPS" for this T4? Thanks!

specialk1

I'll have to check I don't remember if I did some reproductions for the t4 this is the number one T4 by Millar

specialk1

Also also have to remember that motor was made in the late 70s there's probably only a good handful of those engines left in good condition very nice piece you have even has the original Fox motor in it

ocrda

Did you get your stickers sorted ?

specialk1

Hey ocrda it's been quite some time hope all is well with you . Got a question what information or backstory do you have on this outboard I know it it used to be in your collection , I've had it for quite some time but I forgot to reach out to you to ask . Just a reminder most of us are over on Facebook on the AMPS / TMP form I will try to do a link a little bit later I'm on my phone I'm not able to copy and paste it here .

specialk1

It's still ok to post here, this is a great archive forum to look back at all amps and tmp vintage products I still monitor this form to check up hope all is well with everybody . Keep AMPS alive

ScarabChris

Guys, here is my project. It runs amazing but I broke one of the plastic universal joints that goes between the drive and transom plate. Anyone have a solution or replacement?

STVBOB

beautiful job Chris, the amps page on facebook might be helpful, good luck

ScarabChris

May have found a simple solution. Maybe not as good as original but its easy and cheap enough to not care when it breaks. Call it the "sacrificial" component so the gears and props are saved. This is the rear axle assembly for various Traxxas RC trucks. As luck would have it we have a room full of RC trucks and a few Traxxas so I already have several of these to experiment with. These are telescopic shafts. The bigger one is the female and it is just a bit smaller than the 8mm hex needed. I can cut it to the correct length of the missing portion of the AMPS u-joint then with a dremmel I can ream out the inside into an 8mm hex shape. The actual universal + part is the same exact size as the stock AMPS so that will be an easy fix. I'll tinker with this tonight and see how it goes.

ScarabChris

Well here is the first stab at it. I know it doesn't look like a strong "hex" inside but it is a tight fit. The inside of the plastic female shaft was round with splines. I ground away the splines a little then I got an 8mm allen wrench and heated it with a torch then slowly slid the plastic U-joint over it so it formed around it. It does make a nice tight fit on the drive hex. I am going to get some aluminum tube that is just bigger than that plastic, cut a ring and press it over that end so it will help prevent it from stretching and rounding out.

ScarabChris

In case you guys want to see a transom view of the drives in action. This was before the boat was fast. It's hitting just under 30 MPH here now I have it pushing 40 MPH.

ScarabChris

Welp....I gave the boat a run and my rigged U joint lasted a few mins then it rounded out. I wasn't surprised. The plastic on those Traxxas U joints is much softer compared to the stock AMPS U joints. No worries. I will try again. I have some metal U joints coming I will try to make work. Also I may try to do a set screw on the plastic one to hole it in place. Maybe even some JB weld to keep it secure the drive hex.

ScarabChris

Ok so this little rig worked. This is the shock cap from a shock for one of my RC trucks. It screwed nice and tight over the rounded out plastic end I tried before. In addition to the cap being glued on with a 5 min epoxy it is also held to the plastic with two set screws that tightly grab the hex inside the transom side of the outdrive. Man the boat was flying...I was able to run it so hard it went through the 6S batteries which is a solid 20-30 mins of run time. I will get some video this weekend. I couldn't go past 3/4 throttle before the boat wanted to fly out of the water. I was running with my sons boat that goes 30 MPH and I was blowing past his like he was sitting still. LOL.

So anyway...I now know how to rig the U-Joints. I have some new metal U-Joints that are round inside. I plant to find a way to make them hex inside so they can be easily swapped out. I always thought the gears in the drive would be the weak part...not so much. It's those plastic hex U-Joints.

specialk1

Great great video but I do see one major problem you need to have constant water spraying on to those u-joints they do heat up and cause them to fail

specialk1

Just just a heads up. Do not use those metal u-joints that you ordered many have tried them they do not work .

ScarabChris

I am still on the original plastic u-joints with the exception of the one I had to modify with the aluminum shock cap. It is still working great. With regard to the u-joints needing water I understand but this is not a race boat. I run it as a scale model so I rarely give it full throttle and I am running back and forth is a small space in the canal behind my house so they are only running "dry" for a few seconds at a time.

However, the metal U-Joints I have coupling the motors to the drives in the hull do get hot. So far no real issue there, they just feel hot when I pull the boat. Today the boat was running awesome but one of the cooling lines for one of the ESC's came off so I was filling the boat with water as I ran. Luckily I was on my real boat running the RC when I noticed it and was able to grab it. I have a bilge pump system I am working on now so if this happens in the future I will know and the water will be pumped out.

As for the U-Joints in the boat that are getting hot, you can see them here.