europatc74

My Feedback: (6)

Your CG should be 4 3/4" from leading edge at Fuse. Very important that you balance laterally. Remove the prop. Set the prop shaft on a flat object. Raise plane from the back at center point to level position, check and adjust lateral balance.

badger5964

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks for the compliment!

The engine is a Fox 46 ABC with a macs muffled pipe. I am using an APC 9x9 sport prop.

I'm adding a strip of ultracot between the aileron and wing to cover the gap. Hopefully this will reduce the flutter.

crashpro2000

My Feedback: (16)

Thanks for the info..Been looking forward to flying this thing..

Tango Juliet

Does anyone make Shrike 40 kits anymore, or does someone have plans for sale?

crashpro2000

My Feedback: (16)

couple more pics,,I'll try to post a vid of the flight later this week, way under powered comparied to some on here. But allot lighter with the 81s

crashpro2000

My Feedback: (16)

not sure how old this add is but worth a shot..
http://www.cma1193.com/ForSale/for_sale_bulletin.htm

europatc74

My Feedback: (6)

Lanier was bought out and the kits are no longer being made. You can find kits for sale on E Bay sometimes and they usually go for over twice the original price. I have plans and instruction booklet for both the 10 and 40 kits. The plans are no good with out the templets for the cutout parts. I have computer printout templets for the 10 but not the 40. I'm working on having them 40 made. I can however trace the templets I made for the printout. I charge a nominal fee plus reprint and mailing costs. All monies made go to my Flying Club to help with our expenses. It's nonprofit so I guess you could write it off on your taxes. If anyone is interested contact me off forum. [email protected] Dave...

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

For anyone who's interested, I did some calculations based on the 40 size plans:

Wingspan: 43.5"

Root chord (Using the LE and TE of the ailerons extended to the centerline of the fuse): 17.625"

Tip chord: 6.8"

MAC (mean aerodynamic chord): 12.2"

Wing Area: 530 square inches, or 3.68 square feet

Factory Center of Gravity recommendation is 0.9" aft of the forward spruce spar, which translates to 2.0" on the MAC, or 16.3% of MAC. Conservative by "normal" airplane standards, but typical of delta wings, which this is but with a short stab stuck on the back. (Deltas seem to range anywhere from 5% MAC to 20% MAC CofG, depending on the shape of the triangle.)

The "normal airplane" 25% C of G would be at 3" on the MAC, and would probably result in gross instability, assuming one could stuff enough lead in the tail to actually get it there.

If one can keep the RTF (fueled) weight down to 55.2 oz, the wing loading translates to 15 ounces per square foot, which is generally safe hand launching territory, as stall speed is 16-17 mph. Even I can throw one that hard, most of the time. At weights above 55.2, I think some sort of dolly or landing gear is probably wise, unless you have a really strong wind to throw it into. I had one with a 40 LA on it, and remember that I had it balanced dead on the recommended 16.3% point, but don't remember the RTF weight. I do remember that unless there was a decent breeze, it could get hairy trying to hand launch it. It wanted to dutch roll like crazy until it got up a little speed.

At 73.6 oz RTF, the wingloading is 20 oz/square foot, and a stall speed of 20mph.
At 92oz, it reaches 25 oz per square foot and the stall speed 22-23mph.

Just to have some numbers to work with, I added up all the component weights of one that I'd liked to build with an OS 35AX and those plastic, mechanical retracts by Robart (#611) which I couldn't get a weight on, so I estimated. The total came to 34 ounces of engine, servos, battery, Rx, landing gear, fuel etc. That leaves about 20 oz for the airframe if I want to keep it to 55 oz.

Any of you who have built one recently, is 20 oz for a covered airframe realistic?

SpeedBoy

Thanks for the answer badger ,

And yes the strip of Ultracot must help to avoid flutter , in case dont disappear with that , check these points ( pic below ) that would help also . And besides that if you are using just one servo to ailerons you probably have slop somewhere that's another cause to flutter at high speed. For last but not less important in case the flutter still exist after chech all the before mentioned , shortener the aileron on the tips ( 1 1/5" fixed piece ) might help too.

Flutter destroys airplanes lets try to keep it away from our bebys .

RC-Captain

Also make sure your servo is strong enough for the high speed passes you are doing. I experienced elevator failure due to a stripped servo.

CAP

4dogspete

So what servo would be strong enough?
I'm planning on using HiTec HS-81MG or HS 85MG for the ailerons.
They spec out 36.1 oz/in for the HS-81 and 41.6 oz/in for the HS-85
I've never had a problem with these servos in fairly high speed small airplanes, but probably never had one as fast as the Shrike.
Iwould think either one would be good enough, but I'd like to hear from others as to what they are using.
Thanks
Pete

RC-Captain

The weight of the plane normally would determine the servo needed. Metal gears should hold up perfectly. I would go with the HS-85.


CAP

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

I am using:
Futaba 3001 (1) for the ailerons.
Hitec HS225 for elevator.
Hitec HS55 for throttle.
Mine came out nose heavy, you may want to move the elevator and throttle push rod to the rear. I built a hatch at the very rear for the battery.

badger5964

My Feedback: (6)

I choose to use just a single aileron servo, Futaba S3004. I liked the clean look compared to two servos. If I can't cure the flutter with the strip of Ultracote I added over the control surface gap, I will cut the tips as you suggest.

SpeedBoy

Good !!

Just let us know if the flutter issue disappear .

johnc1go

My Feedback: (9)

Hey Captain.....how ya been? Glad to see the Shrike club is still going strong. I crashed mine a couple years ago into a limbo pole at full speed. The guys at the field had a good laugh as the pole completely sheered off the right wing at the root. It was an explosion of wood splinters to say the least. Anyway, I have another Shrike that I finally got around to building, it's in the bones right now, can't seem to decide on a color scheme.

I must say, some of these guys put up some nice looking planes since I last posted my pictures. I appreciate everyone keeping this thread going and giving me some ideas as to how I'm gonna cover my newest "go fasty" This will be my third Shrike and without a doubt the fastest one I've ever owned. I'm liking that OS32 engine and that's whats on the nose of the new one.

Thanks for the input Euro regarding the setup on your Shrike, I think I'll take what you shared and start with that.

Speedboy, how you doing on your highly modified speed machine? You'll let us all know how the first flight went, right?

The red Shrike on the right was my 2d one and is what I crashed into the pole, that just killed me. I loved the way that plane flew and I miss it to this day, but when you fly a plane that you like a lot, it sorta becomes a part of you.

4dogspete

Some suggestions on a power plant?

I have an MDS .18 - would any one suggest a pipe to fit? I saw some info on a Mousse can muffler a long while ago, but seem to have lost it somewhere. Any suggestions on how to build one of those?

I also have a K&B 3.5 (which is a .20 CI) with rear exhaust - If I go that route, where would I find a pipe to fit out the back. (BTW this is a pretty high performance K&B engine - not like the old sportsters etc.)

I'm familiar with MACS mufflers, but they don't make a MACS pipe (one piece) to fit anything smaller than a .25.

Thanks
Pete

RC-Captain

I am fine, thank you, and I am glad to see you are still enjoying this thread. I am sorry to about your crash , but that is what makes this hobby interesting. I haven't gotten around to rebuilding my shrike because I am contemplating up scaling my plan to a .40 size. I have a Rossi .60 that has new bearings in it, and performs flawlessly, I want to put the Rossi on the nose. I started getting into gasoline engines and have a old thunderbug with a zenoah g20ei on it, which I will soon install in a spacewalker. Not to mention I have a race season for truggys and buggys about to begin. So I have been busy as usual enjoying RC to the fullest.

Keep us posted with your new build. I think the os.32 will work just fine. Hopefully your build will be the motivation I need to get going on my next shrike. It's good to hear from you again.

CAP

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Guys:

Can one of you that has the Shrike 40 ARF do a quick measurement for me?

I'd like to know how far forward of the wing trailing edge (at the aileron hinge line) the main landing gear wire is located. Also, what's the track width? (Distance left to right between the wheels)

I'm working out the design for a Shrike with retracts. I had a 40 ARF, and it seemed that the landing gear location was just about perfect, so I'd like to duplicate it.

Thanks

europatc74

My Feedback: (6)

Johnc1go..any reason why you cut the nose off your shrike with the 32?? A 32 is the only engine I run in the shrike 10. It will fit. Takes a little work but will fit. My 40 shrike runs an os 61. I also built a slightly modified shrike 10 with a Ross 40 in it. Had to widen the fuse a little to make it fit. Just waiting for the field to dry up. Dave

SpeedBoy

I like the adjectives you used ..... highly modified speed machine OOHHHH YEAAAA Beby !!! [8D] hehe .

Its going fine , I'm still fabricating wood pieces , the airplane will be 100% sheeted , on wings , stabilizer and rudders , tonight (later) I'll add some pics on the build thread and you could see how it goes .

And dont doubt it john , I'll let you all know how the maiden was , I just hope the new airfoil can works . . But any thing (good or bad ) that happen I'll share it with all you .

Nice Shrike you have there !!! I was wondering the same as europact74 about the nose , do you will complete it ???

Take your time to decide on a color scheme, I'm sure you will do a good gob on it and the good thing you have many colors already .

Please share it with us when you get it finished .

BTW I'm enjoying this thread too .

SpeedBoy

Pete , I did a quick search and this is what I found .

http://webpages.charter.net/rcfu/ConstGuide/MCM.html

I hope can be useful for you .

SpeedBoy

This is other .....

http://www.spadtothebone.com/SPAD/Mu...sse_can_1.html

johnc1go

My Feedback: (9)

Well Dave and Speedboy, originally, I was going to leave the nose on the plane. I moved the firewall back 3/4" to reduce how much weight I'd have to put in the tail to get to the C.G. You're right, I could have managed to build the nose around the larger engine, but I'm not that good of a builder to make things look nice, so I cut the non-essential decorative stuff off of the nose and went with just a bare engine. I figure that when the thing is going 120mph, no one will be worried much about how the nose looks.

johnc1go

My Feedback: (9)

I want to add something real quick here. Perhaps someone else can benefit from what I did. I needed just over 3 oz in the tail to make the C.G. come out right. I wanted the weight as rear-ward as possible and searched for a solution. As I looked around my airplane factory(grungy basement), I discovered some old lead solder that I'd never use for it's real purpose so I decided to use it for ballast. It worked out well in that once I took it off the spool, it weighed in just right.

I took a hammer and flattened the solder out to a width just shy of 5/16". I then coiled up the flat solder and installed it in the tail using scrap wood and 5 minute epoxy. I also rubbed the glue into the coils so as to keep them from uncoiling during high G maneuvers. Here are some pictures to illustrate. Hope this helps someone else.