SHRIKE CLUB # 1
#526
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
They are equivalent - might try a 7 x 4. Checked the Tower Hobbies manualand it recommends an 8 x 4.Something like that should work pretty well.Usinga lower pitch - it's like starting off in first gear. Good for lots of RPM, which will make it pull a bit btter and not crap out at the start if it's over pitched.
Good Luck
Cambodia eh!
Actually sounds pretty exciting.Stay safe.
Pete
Good Luck
Cambodia eh!
Actually sounds pretty exciting.Stay safe.
Pete
#527
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: PordenoneItaly, ITALY
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
some updates abput my engine setup: finally I tested on bench the engine with the pipe.
- propeller APC 7x6
- plug os A8
- fuel 10%
- header lenght about 3 inch
total RPM: 16.800 stable!
originally the rpm were between 13k to 14k
The engine becames really hot [:@]
I hope that in flight the speed could reduce the temperature
I'll post as soon as possible more pics, and a new flight report.
Alessandro
- propeller APC 7x6
- plug os A8
- fuel 10%
- header lenght about 3 inch
total RPM: 16.800 stable!
originally the rpm were between 13k to 14k
The engine becames really hot [:@]
I hope that in flight the speed could reduce the temperature
I'll post as soon as possible more pics, and a new flight report.
Alessandro
#528
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: PordenoneItaly, ITALY
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
some pics about the new installation
To avoid pipe came out of the model, I realised a small aluminum support with a piece of silicon tube.
we will see if this solution will hold the pipe during the flight.
bye
Alessandro
To avoid pipe came out of the model, I realised a small aluminum support with a piece of silicon tube.
we will see if this solution will hold the pipe during the flight.
bye
Alessandro
#529
My Feedback: (11)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: RR#7 Aylmer,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 1,291
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
ORIGINAL: [email protected]
OK Here it is - my first shot at a .10 size Shrike. Powered with an K&B 3.5 (.20ci). Using HS-81MG servos in the wings for the ailerons. You can seethe hatches I made for access to the aileron servoson the photo of the underside. 250 mAh battery all the way in the rear including another 3 oz weight back there. I apologize for pleasurizing the stripe scheme from one of you guys - - Idid like the chevrons or darts or whatever they are.
Final all-up dry weight is 2# 6 oz. - I tend to build heavy no matter how hard I try to build light. And it's all ready for this holiday weekend - except that my wife has plans to go away. So it'll have to wait a week or so.
OK Here it is - my first shot at a .10 size Shrike. Powered with an K&B 3.5 (.20ci). Using HS-81MG servos in the wings for the ailerons. You can seethe hatches I made for access to the aileron servoson the photo of the underside. 250 mAh battery all the way in the rear including another 3 oz weight back there. I apologize for pleasurizing the stripe scheme from one of you guys - - Idid like the chevrons or darts or whatever they are.
Final all-up dry weight is 2# 6 oz. - I tend to build heavy no matter how hard I try to build light. And it's all ready for this holiday weekend - except that my wife has plans to go away. So it'll have to wait a week or so.
Doin up a Shrike .10 w/ carbon main spar and a few other mods to handle a OS .25 vrdf engine w/ tuned exhaust, I can't wait to finish.
#530
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Thanks for the kuddo's - still haven't flown it yet.
Get to show it off to the club at the monthly meeting this week.
Most of these members are giant scale WWII buffs, so I kind of stand out!
Do post some pics when You're done.
Get to show it off to the club at the monthly meeting this week.
Most of these members are giant scale WWII buffs, so I kind of stand out!
Do post some pics when You're done.
#533
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Lodz, POLAND
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Hi all! This is my first posting to this site as a member.I have been reading many post as a quest. I need some help.I have plan "Shrike 10" and need drawings airfoil for wings.Could you send me the drawings. Best regards.
Greg5001
Greg5001
#534
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Antioch,
CA
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
I did a scratch build and picked an airfoil that looked about right. It was a symetrical nasa tail foil that I thinned to 6%. The wing blank was cut from blue foam and then vacuum bagged around a carbon fiber spar and leading edges.
The little guy went like a bat outta heii until one over exhuberant launch pulled the battery into the back of the fuse. I felt the big "CLUNK" at the end of the throw. The extreme tail heavyness made it impossible for me to regain any control and it went in hard. The only thing that survived was the wing, go figure.
The little guy went like a bat outta heii until one over exhuberant launch pulled the battery into the back of the fuse. I felt the big "CLUNK" at the end of the throw. The extreme tail heavyness made it impossible for me to regain any control and it went in hard. The only thing that survived was the wing, go figure.
#535
My Feedback: (107)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Pete:
Its now August and I'm replying to one of your posts from back in the spring. I have a K&B 3.5 with rear exhaust and it has a header fitted. I inherited the engine, so I don't know that its a Mac's pipe, but it appears to be. I inherited a few pipes along with it. Most were probably for a .40 size engine since they were 15 inches long, but there is one that is 7 inches long. I am attaching a pictures of the engine, the header and the pipe. The point is, there not only appears to be a header but also (maybe) a pipe for your type of engine. I just can't confirm that these are Mac's products.
Harlan
Its now August and I'm replying to one of your posts from back in the spring. I have a K&B 3.5 with rear exhaust and it has a header fitted. I inherited the engine, so I don't know that its a Mac's pipe, but it appears to be. I inherited a few pipes along with it. Most were probably for a .40 size engine since they were 15 inches long, but there is one that is 7 inches long. I am attaching a pictures of the engine, the header and the pipe. The point is, there not only appears to be a header but also (maybe) a pipe for your type of engine. I just can't confirm that these are Mac's products.
Harlan
#536
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Hi Harlan
Saw your photos and it sure looke like the K&B 3.5.
Originally the later models came with the funky dual exhaust that shows on my Shrike and a remote needle.
So yours looks like a bit of an older one.
I am not a pipe person, but seems like that should work pretty well.
FYI - mine runs about 15k with an 8 x 4 prop with the funky exhaust.
You may be able to get any OEM parts from MECOA.
The bearings in mine were totally rusted from my poor storage. I ordered a new set and it's smoth as silk.
There may be other parts @ MECOA as well.
You may be able to do a guestimate by looking at the MACS web site and see what they recommend for a .20 size engine. But I think the pipe you put in the phots is probably the right one.
My general rule is - "put it together and fire it up"
I don't think you can hurt it if the pipe is the wrong length. It just won't "get on the pipe" which should be up around 16k - 18k rpms.
Good luck and let me know how it comes out,
Pete
Saw your photos and it sure looke like the K&B 3.5.
Originally the later models came with the funky dual exhaust that shows on my Shrike and a remote needle.
So yours looks like a bit of an older one.
I am not a pipe person, but seems like that should work pretty well.
FYI - mine runs about 15k with an 8 x 4 prop with the funky exhaust.
You may be able to get any OEM parts from MECOA.
The bearings in mine were totally rusted from my poor storage. I ordered a new set and it's smoth as silk.
There may be other parts @ MECOA as well.
You may be able to do a guestimate by looking at the MACS web site and see what they recommend for a .20 size engine. But I think the pipe you put in the phots is probably the right one.
My general rule is - "put it together and fire it up"
I don't think you can hurt it if the pipe is the wrong length. It just won't "get on the pipe" which should be up around 16k - 18k rpms.
Good luck and let me know how it comes out,
Pete
#537
My Feedback: (11)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: RR#7 Aylmer,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 1,291
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
That is the MACS wizard pipe set-up for the RK-20 ducted fan unit popular in the late 70's early 80's, it works good for a prop plane too, nice and compact, I have the same pipe set-up on my Shrike project, only the engine is a OS .25 vrdf, check out my thread in the extreme speed prop plane forum.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9034206/tm.htm
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9034206/tm.htm
#538
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Rockford,
IL
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
I was thinking of doing a twin EDF version of the Shrike. (Sort of like a Horton HO-229 style intake set-up) Has anyone seen anything like that?
#539
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chesapeake,
VA
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Hey everyone,
Here's my 3rd shrike 10 and I also have a 40 in the building process that you may be able to see in the background..
this 10 size has a RJL Cox .15 Conquest with a Mac's tuned pipe and an APC 7x6. I had to remove the perry carb and I put on an OS 11J carb and now it idles and transitions perfectly and it's killer stable even at full throttle..( it only took me 3 tries to get it right).
Here's my 3rd shrike 10 and I also have a 40 in the building process that you may be able to see in the background..
this 10 size has a RJL Cox .15 Conquest with a Mac's tuned pipe and an APC 7x6. I had to remove the perry carb and I put on an OS 11J carb and now it idles and transitions perfectly and it's killer stable even at full throttle..( it only took me 3 tries to get it right).
#541
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chesapeake,
VA
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
I traded it for an airplane that I had, that another club member wanted...it had been sitting brand new in the box for a year or more. I wish I could find another 10 and 40 kit for backup.
#543
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
I found someone who copied the 40 plans for me, and traced the rib carriers from the kits to produce rib patterns. I'm going to build at least two of them. The first will be a 35AX powered hand launched, as light as possible. For the second I'd like to do retract gear (B&D air) and maybe a Jett 35 rear exhaust.
I don't know what it is about this design that is so attractive. I've had four of them, 2 of the 10 size and 2 of the 40, and all of them were destroyed in crashes, but here I am again.
I don't know what it is about this design that is so attractive. I've had four of them, 2 of the 10 size and 2 of the 40, and all of them were destroyed in crashes, but here I am again.
#545
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
I finally did my maiden flight on my Shrike with a K&B 3.5 (.20) engine.
It has a tendency to go up at full throttle, and I can't seem to put enough down throttle. It also has a tendency to roll left.
Do I need to add some down thrust or right thrust?
Slow flignt seems to be just fine.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Pete
It has a tendency to go up at full throttle, and I can't seem to put enough down throttle. It also has a tendency to roll left.
Do I need to add some down thrust or right thrust?
Slow flignt seems to be just fine.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Pete
#546
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Great Falls, MT
Posts: 931
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Sounds like it may be nose heavy. Mine came out nose heavy with both the 15 and 25. Does it need a lot of down elevator to fly level while inverted? Mine rolls to the left on launch, that's normal.
Have fun with it, MikeB
Have fun with it, MikeB
#547
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
ORIGINAL: WMB
Sounds like it may be nose heavy. Mine came out nose heavy with both the 15 and 25. Does it need a lot of down elevator to fly level while inverted? Mine rolls to the left on launch, that's normal.
Have fun with it, MikeB
Sounds like it may be nose heavy. Mine came out nose heavy with both the 15 and 25. Does it need a lot of down elevator to fly level while inverted? Mine rolls to the left on launch, that's normal.
Have fun with it, MikeB
The balance point is per the plans. I'd sure hate to make it tail heavy!!! Suggestions on balance point?
I haven't tried inverted - 'twas quite a handful just trying to get the trims even close to right - except for flying slow for a landing - lands like a kitten.
I was hoping for a high speed low pass, but kicking in throttle makes it a serious handful!
P
#548
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Great Falls, MT
Posts: 931
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
My original with the 15 was balanced at the recommended spot, but flew nose heavy. My notes show recommended at 4 7/8", flying at 5 1/16" and still feeling nose heavy. I moved the throttle servo back after that, but did not check cg.
With the 25 up front, I moved firewall back but still need to move things around to get the cg back. It is currently at recommended.
It seems like all my planes fly nose heavy at recommended CG. Benefits of correct cg are:
Slower landing speed
Easier inverted flight
More responsive elevator
More neutral handling in general
The covering started coming of mine. So it needs a covering job, I would also like to move more stuff to the rear if possible. It is cramped as is. It is fast with 25 and 9x4 apc. Haven't had the nerve to try a faster prop. Gets small fast!
With the 25 up front, I moved firewall back but still need to move things around to get the cg back. It is currently at recommended.
It seems like all my planes fly nose heavy at recommended CG. Benefits of correct cg are:
Slower landing speed
Easier inverted flight
More responsive elevator
More neutral handling in general
The covering started coming of mine. So it needs a covering job, I would also like to move more stuff to the rear if possible. It is cramped as is. It is fast with 25 and 9x4 apc. Haven't had the nerve to try a faster prop. Gets small fast!
#549
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
I did a build thread on the one I'm building from plans, just started covering it today.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_84..._1/key_/tm.htm
It has removable, fixed trike gear so I can have the option of "normal" or "scary" takeoffs. The weather here has just turned really nice, after one of the worst Octobers in memory, so I should be able to maiden it sometime this week.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_84..._1/key_/tm.htm
It has removable, fixed trike gear so I can have the option of "normal" or "scary" takeoffs. The weather here has just turned really nice, after one of the worst Octobers in memory, so I should be able to maiden it sometime this week.
#550
Junior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Winston Salem,
NC
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
hey yall. im new to RC Universe. im an RCGoups guy - but they dont have such a great thread on the shrike 0 so here i am!
today at a mass swap meet i was looking for something to put my .25 into. i found this little gem!
bought it for only $30 from a woman who claimed that with an OS.25, tuned pipe, and 8X8 prop it would easily do well over 110 mph! (she also threw in a motor mount
i love the covering scheme! it looks perfect. there isnt really any damage at all.
mine is different from others i have seen though, because it 1 - has no canopy/cockpit. 2 - the motor will just mount ti the firewall - there is no compertment. 3. the ailerons are controlled by 1 servo INSIDE of the fuse (no servos on wings that strip everytime i land)
the gear i have for it is a magnum Pro .25, 3 standard sized futaba servo (big, but they r what i got. will have to do some modding to fit em in. ) and i plan on getting a spektrum 6200 fullrange rx, and a new trustworthy rx battery. i think ill go with a 8X4 prop to start with. then ill try a 8X8 after i get a hang of it. later on if i really feel confident, ill try adding a tuned pipe to really make it scream
here she is!
Helifryer
today at a mass swap meet i was looking for something to put my .25 into. i found this little gem!
bought it for only $30 from a woman who claimed that with an OS.25, tuned pipe, and 8X8 prop it would easily do well over 110 mph! (she also threw in a motor mount
i love the covering scheme! it looks perfect. there isnt really any damage at all.
mine is different from others i have seen though, because it 1 - has no canopy/cockpit. 2 - the motor will just mount ti the firewall - there is no compertment. 3. the ailerons are controlled by 1 servo INSIDE of the fuse (no servos on wings that strip everytime i land)
the gear i have for it is a magnum Pro .25, 3 standard sized futaba servo (big, but they r what i got. will have to do some modding to fit em in. ) and i plan on getting a spektrum 6200 fullrange rx, and a new trustworthy rx battery. i think ill go with a 8X4 prop to start with. then ill try a 8X8 after i get a hang of it. later on if i really feel confident, ill try adding a tuned pipe to really make it scream
here she is!
Helifryer