sellers11535

I have one of these
This is what I'm trying to fix

Moontan13

Have you seen the YouTube HK401video and done the fix?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TPSZtg5ZfY

I plan to do it to mine after I find out if it works or not.

sellers11535

Done that already
That's not the prob I've got the prob I have is with the gyro in rate it pyres fast but in hh it pyres slow
Need to know how to fix

Moontan13

Gotcha. Is there a model club anywhere nearby? Somebody who could help?
My radio settings are giving me fits,if that's any consolation. I'm trying to use Ray's as a guide, but some of his stuff is dated and I'm not real confident.

sellers11535

No they all hate I have non align stuff
If u don't have all highdollar stuff they don't want to talk to ya

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

On some gyros, the piro rate is adjusted by the rudder endpoints. Could this be? If you're using dual rates or expo on the rudder this may be a problem.

Moontan13

There's a shop nearby, where the guy is getting rid of all his Align parts because he doesn't want to support "everybody buying clones". This is the same guy who told me it would cost $3,000 to put together a Trex 600. At that point I think I began to say Hobby King and the guy had a major flip out.

I plan to join a club once I have my 600 running, and I can fly it around without crashing it.

sellers11535

d/r&expo
aile 0 100% inh
elev 0 100% inh
rudd 0 100% inh


travel adj
thro up and down 100%
elve same
gyro same
aile same
rudd rt 45% lft 35%
pitch100% up and down

but like i say it will reach max in rate and hh as long a i dont spool it up
after i spool it up it will piro fast in rate but when i flip gyro switch the servo does not max out with motor running

Moontan13

One thing that stands out is the 45/35 setting on your rudder control. why did you need to do that? Just wondering.

sellers11535

That's where the pitch slider touches on both sides
Any more and the rod bends and tail link bends

Moontan13

I just measured my tail control, and I get about 13mm lock to lock. To achieve that with full servo range I'll have to drill a new hole in the servo arm. Perhaps there's another radio settingsolution.
Do you have REVO enabled? It needs to be off when you turn on the gyro.

sellers11535

I think I may have found it there was a mix1 that was not in Inh

I forgot the heli but brought the radio for using the sim so il have to try when I get home or try the mix on sim and se if it does the same thing I'll post ether way

Moontan13

I was nosing around in the Ray's manual, and one thing I found may help. He mentions needing to use Throttle/Rudder mixing. The values shown were -7% for cw/rt and +8% for ccw/lft. HTH.

sellers11535

fixed it

but it dont make sence had to max out rud adj to 100%+ both ways to get it to work the way i wanted to

on anything else you dont want the servo to go past where the linkage stops or you burn out servos

but i guess thats why u want a servo on the tail with a heatsink to keep from burning it up

anyway thanks to all for input and help

PS
im working on an awsome gyro mount ill post when i get it done!!!!

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

I've replaced the plastic baseplate with the metal cnc baseplate from Xheli.com. I've also changed over from the stock landing gear to the Trex 500 gear. In my learning-to-hover antics I was setting the bird down hard sometimes, and also dragging it across the lawn/lot with it's training gear on. After some close examination I realized I'd broken one skid mounting block and cracked another. The metal baseplate will fix this.
When I put the Trex 500 gear on, I had to elongate the holes side to side in order to get it to match the holes on the frame, but no biggie. One of the biggest benefits I see is that with the stock gear I had placed a block between the frame and the rear skid mount to raise the tail a bit, but with the Trex gear the heli sits forward a bit more. Now, even with the extended vertical fin, when the heli is sitting on the ground the fin has about 1/2" of clearance.
If any of you have had issues with the tail hitting the ground a lot, this may be the reason. The Trex gear is cheap from "www.*********4life" with reasonable shipping rates.
FYI

Kruzer

Hi all. Just building my 500CMT. Anyone else missing the horizontal stab spacer? I got two and both kits are minus this part (H50088) seen here:
http://www.rc-fever.com/500-stabiliz...ath=340_41_166
The hor-fin cannot be tightened without a spacer here. I'll probably just make something.

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

The two kits I've put together also did not have that part. I've just assembled it without.
Sam

Kruzer

Hey Daddy Sam, here's to your best Christmas ever and counting. Will keep an eye here and add as I go along. Family matters this evening.

Seeplaner

While I am not new to Heli's, I have just set up a HK-500 CMT TT. It has the Futaba 520 & BLS 257, Align 510 Cyclic servos. Superbrain 60A, 1600KV motor & 6S 3000 Lipos, control by Futaba 10CHG & 6008HS. I must say the downloadable data from the Superbrain is a huge advantage. I have a problem where I can hover around for 2-3 mins and then we have massive power reduction. The download always says the Batt V is fine, the temp gets to 65-70 C, and current does not go over 25Amps. So I believe i answer some questions here, but does anyone have any idea as to why the shutdown. Timing set to auto, soft start, 6S Lipo cutoff,  insensitive. Superbrain has been mounted under the Batt & on the side frame, no real improvement. I presume overheating is the reason for the cutoff, but have I missed something elementary? The current graph is 20A, peaking to 25A only, so I tend to assure myself it's not a current issue! Any help gladly appreciated

abletowinginc

thats just plain stupid .... some people dont have that kind of money and get into the hobby anyway they can so those kind of people are just ignorant

sellers11535

Not saying i know alot but what ive ran into.......
whats the temp in f i will bet its a thermal shut down i burnt 2 eflight 60amp escs on my 500 then went to a 80amp on my 1600kv and they run cool now
and are the batterys new or used if new run them up and down then try a balance charge at 1.5amp do that a few times that fixed b2 of mine

and what c rating u using 500 needs 25c for hover and 30c+ for anything else

they will give more current then it needs and then it runs cooler
hope it helps

rogerp1

hi guys

i am new to helicopters and i am looking to buy a HK 500 CMT !!

would you guys recomend this helli ??

i would also love it if some of you guys could put a a complete list of all the gear used in completing a stock heli as i have no idea what items i need or what items i should buy

thanks

sellers11535

go to rc.runrider.com and look on eclassified the have them set up just add radio and go some cheaper than others

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

A quick update on my HK 500: The heli now has very few HK parts left on it. I am still using the CF frame, the Turnigy servos on the cyclic, the HK motor, and the HK tail blade group, head, and main blades. The blade grips are EXI. The canopy, landing gear, tail boom, and tail servo, and ESC are Align. Here is what I've had bad luck with: The HK ESC (the 85 and the Plush 80), the HK gyros (the 401 clone and the Piezo, whatever that one was), the stock HK main and autorotation gears, the tail drive gear (after the mesh problems were addressed I had to drive the gear down the shaft so that it met up with the autorotation gear). I've been trying to hover in my back yard, and the heli really wanted to go up and down a lot. The most recent change I made was to replace the 85 amp ESC with a used Align 60 amp ESC. In addition to the great soft start, the RPM is now much more constant. In fact, today I managed to fly my entire battery (7.5 minutes) without stopping or touching the ground and my back yard is not big or free of obstacles-woo-hoo!
I think the best investments I made were the Quark gyro, the Align ESC and landing gear.

Rob2160

Yes, I agree..

and some people just DON"TWant to spend that kind of money on a a helicopter when a $10 kit flies just as well... My $10 HK kit now has over 500 flights and is running flawlessly...

Here aremy HK helis.. all servicableand reliable as heck.. for under the cost of 2 genuine Align 500 Helis..

It would be hard toconvince me that paying $500 is going to give me a more reliable heli.. Since mine are flown daily and have never failed me mechanically in over 2000 combined flights..

PS.. sorry if slightly off topic.. but my next build is the HK500CMT TT so I've just been catching up on this thread...