C-130 updates
#878
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From: Slidell,
LA
Tommy, I don' t think you will have a problem with cooling, However I would recommend you mount your engines on a test stan inverted and test run them to check for reliability. You might need a glow driver to make them reliable inverted. I don't know for sure depending on the engines if you will need the GD. But I would highly recommend you test them Inverted. Reliability in flight is really important and when you throttle back to land you don't want one to quit.
Really nice bomber. I am considering possibly one for my next multi. Bomber or C47 gunship.
I have just about completed my Vintage R/C Nobler. See under vintage if you would like to see the progress.
Cold day here,, 55 high winds 15 G 25 small craft warnings out.. So no flying or boating. This is the New Orleans area so Mardi Gras parades all over town tonight. Might as well go to a parade,, can't fly.[
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Really nice bomber. I am considering possibly one for my next multi. Bomber or C47 gunship.
I have just about completed my Vintage R/C Nobler. See under vintage if you would like to see the progress.
Cold day here,, 55 high winds 15 G 25 small craft warnings out.. So no flying or boating. This is the New Orleans area so Mardi Gras parades all over town tonight. Might as well go to a parade,, can't fly.[
]
#879
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From: Slidell,
LA
Gunny I was looking at the gear setup and have a load question? I don't know how well the struts work and I think they will work well. But I noticed your plywood support stops at the top of the wheel well and doesn't go up to the wing saddle. I was wondering if this would cause the fuselage fiberglas between the top of the wheel strut support and the wing saddle to flex on a hard landing. If the springs are strong enough you won't have a problem If the springs bottom and you get a heavy landing load the fuselage might crack just under the wing saddle.
On my first landing (remember I had to develop the stab, wing incident on my plane) I landed hard. After 2 more landings there was enough flex in the wing to cause the wing sheeting to peel from the foam cores at the wing tip joiner tube.
If I had shock gear like yours it might not have been a problem, and now the incident is correct after 31 flights I can still make a hard landing occasionally. I have the ply strut from the gear all the way up to the wing saddle so the landing loads go from the wheels to the wing and has full support.
Yours may be ok,, just wanted you to look at it while in the building stages.
Happy flying . Jim
On my first landing (remember I had to develop the stab, wing incident on my plane) I landed hard. After 2 more landings there was enough flex in the wing to cause the wing sheeting to peel from the foam cores at the wing tip joiner tube.
If I had shock gear like yours it might not have been a problem, and now the incident is correct after 31 flights I can still make a hard landing occasionally. I have the ply strut from the gear all the way up to the wing saddle so the landing loads go from the wheels to the wing and has full support.
Yours may be ok,, just wanted you to look at it while in the building stages.
Happy flying . Jim
#880
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From: babylon,
NY
You right Jim. I'm Just getting started. A step by step sequence shots for those who might want to do something similar.
The sketch shown is what I'm planning to do. The red is 2 formers (one at the LE and the second at the TE) The green shows two cross members.
Thanks,
Gunny
The sketch shown is what I'm planning to do. The red is 2 formers (one at the LE and the second at the TE) The green shows two cross members.
Thanks,
Gunny
#881
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From: babylon,
NY
Progress:
Pic. - 1 When glue has cured, remove plate.
Pic. - 2 Remove temporary guide rail.
Pic. 3 & 4 Cut, fit and glue in actual lower rail. (1/4" x 3/8" hardwood)
More to come.
Gunny
Pic. - 1 When glue has cured, remove plate.
Pic. - 2 Remove temporary guide rail.
Pic. 3 & 4 Cut, fit and glue in actual lower rail. (1/4" x 3/8" hardwood)
More to come.
Gunny
#882
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From: Slidell,
LA
Gunny, the supports look good and should work fine..
One other thing I did was on the floor under the landing gear box I installed 2 ,,,,,,, 5/16 x 5/16 x 36" spruce running length wise and then fiberglassed over them. When I was building the bird and put the wing on the fuse with the gear box screwed down (temporary setup) the floor of the plane had a lot of flex so I put in the spruce to spread the gear load over a larger area of the floor. If you would like a pic. let me know. Jim
Weather here still doesn't allow flying or boating. Yesterday 55 high winds 20 mph.
One other thing I did was on the floor under the landing gear box I installed 2 ,,,,,,, 5/16 x 5/16 x 36" spruce running length wise and then fiberglassed over them. When I was building the bird and put the wing on the fuse with the gear box screwed down (temporary setup) the floor of the plane had a lot of flex so I put in the spruce to spread the gear load over a larger area of the floor. If you would like a pic. let me know. Jim
Weather here still doesn't allow flying or boating. Yesterday 55 high winds 20 mph.
#886
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Regarding the prop strike, I never figured out how the prop got into the fuse. Pete (JMUpilot) theorized that the weight of the wing kind of "squished" out the fuse side into the prop. Might have made sense if it happened during touchdown, but I had already landed and was taxiing when it happened. Still puzzles me. Strange things happen.
Randy
Randy
#889
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From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Billy:
It's a "Machinist's" or "Combination " square. The complete kit has an adjustable protractor, a 45 and 90 degree clamp, and the center finder.
Without the adjustable protractor they are available for realy low prices with equally low quality, but more than sufficient accuracy for anything you will need. Even find them in the 99 cent tool bins now and then.
A complete set, with an engraved scale and so forth runs close to $200 from Lufkin or Brown and Sharpe, a Starrett square would cost even more.
The Japs are making them in reasonable quality for lower prices, but even the Mitutoyo (best Jap preision tool maker) square doesn't have the feel and finish of a good Brown and Sharpe.
Bill.
It's a "Machinist's" or "Combination " square. The complete kit has an adjustable protractor, a 45 and 90 degree clamp, and the center finder.
Without the adjustable protractor they are available for realy low prices with equally low quality, but more than sufficient accuracy for anything you will need. Even find them in the 99 cent tool bins now and then.
A complete set, with an engraved scale and so forth runs close to $200 from Lufkin or Brown and Sharpe, a Starrett square would cost even more.
The Japs are making them in reasonable quality for lower prices, but even the Mitutoyo (best Jap preision tool maker) square doesn't have the feel and finish of a good Brown and Sharpe.
Bill.
#891
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From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Gunny:
That's a different animal entirely. Must have missed your post showing it, or old age made me forget it.
I'll have to get one of those for myself.
If I can remember to.
Haw.
Bill.
That's a different animal entirely. Must have missed your post showing it, or old age made me forget it.
I'll have to get one of those for myself.
If I can remember to.
Haw.
Bill.
#893

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From: Madison,
MS
let me try to get the camera charged up. I have ordered a new one. I painted the fuse for the last few days.
here is the link to the picture
[link]http://www.feuerwehrpresse.de/e-wildland.html[/link]
[link]http://www.ruudleeuw.com/greybull.htm[/link]
[img][/img]
here is the link to the picture
[link]http://www.feuerwehrpresse.de/e-wildland.html[/link]
[link]http://www.ruudleeuw.com/greybull.htm[/link]
[img][/img]
#894

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From: Madison,
MS
Here are a few more of the pictures of the paint scheme. This was the T-130 that the wings folded on in 2002 I think. There is a link to the video of it on one of those links in the above message.
#896

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From: Madison,
MS
Overall the construction is ok. I am getting down to the nuts and bolts of attaching the wing to the body. I ran the cable and such through the wing; Am fiberglassing it in the next day or two; the hor. stad is finished but not attached; and I am getting a headache thinking about keeping it all straight. I have almost finished cutting out the ailerons, but am trying to figure out the engineering behind attaching them... you know... making them look "Pur-T"... as they say here in MS. I am at a point where another large chunk of money is needed for the JETT fuel tanks and all of the electronics, so that may put a damper on things till I can get some mileage money rounded up.
Any tips on painting the windows in the front? Are the windows on the plans good? Did you guys use them as trim?
Bill R.
Any tips on painting the windows in the front? Are the windows on the plans good? Did you guys use them as trim?
Bill R.
#898

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From: Madison,
MS
in other words... I guess I am trying to ask... did you copy the windows... then cut out the window sections on the paper... the transfer it to the fuse? I thought about free handing it, but it will not be exact.
Bill R.
Bill R.
#899
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From: Slidell,
LA
I used the frame on the plans for size,, but can't remember how I transferred the frame to the fuse. Sorry,, just don't remember the details.
Look at a photo of the real bird to help with sizing. Jim
Look at a photo of the real bird to help with sizing. Jim
#900
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..... in other words... I guess I am trying to ask... did you copy the windows... then cut out the window sections on the paper... the transfer it to the fuse?
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I had extra copies of the plans made. I cut the window section out of the plans, cut out the individual window openings, and placed that on the fuse and used a non-permanent felt marker to outline the windows. I then removed the pattern, and masked off the area with tape. I used a brush to paint on the windows. That is approximately how I did it anyway.
Randy
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I had extra copies of the plans made. I cut the window section out of the plans, cut out the individual window openings, and placed that on the fuse and used a non-permanent felt marker to outline the windows. I then removed the pattern, and masked off the area with tape. I used a brush to paint on the windows. That is approximately how I did it anyway.
Randy


