Thank you Randy for the tip. I'll have now some more ideas to think about of how to go about this process before I screw things up.

gunny

I have been calling Bob Sealy to purchase a C 130 kit but I always get his answering machine. Does anyone happen to know when the best time to call him is to place an order.

Craig.

There were gaps in the nacell to the wing. I ca'ed the nacell's just to hold them in place. Then I used 2" 4 oz glass strip and epoxy to seal the outside of the nacell. This gave about 1" on each surface. Then internal to the nacell I added 1" glas that was pre wet with epoxy inside of the nacell to add an internal bond. BE SURE TO CLEAN THE NACELL AND ROUGH UP THE SURFACT to make sure it bonds with the epoxy. There really is a mold release agent on the nacell you can't see and it will prevent a solid bond to the wing.

Hope this helps.. Jim

Bob Sealey's part time job is farmer,, during the spring he spends many hours planting a very large crop. My guess is he is farmer now vs.. supplier. You will just have to be patient and give him some time. I went through the same thing.. Jim

While we are on wing alignment... I bought a laser leveler/pointer today to assist me (thanks to Gunny's techniques). I have my engines on a track (90 degree agle aluminum) that is very thick to prevent warping. I have the spacing correct between the engines, but what is the best method for centering it on the wing.... I thought about shooting a line down the center of the wing and intersecting in the center of the "track" bar. Sound good? Let me hear your ideas.

Ohhhh..... I previously put down the Dolphin Glaze because I could not get it to dry fast.... Well I think that part of it was the low temps at the time; now the Dolphin glaze works better... still takes a little longer to dry than Bondo, but overall it fills good. I did notice that you CANNOT put it on very thick and expect it to dry to sandable condition in 24 hrs.

Have a good one guys....
Thanks
Bill R.

...........now the Dolphin glaze works better... still takes a little longer to dry than Bondo, but overall it fills good. I did notice that you CANNOT put it on very thick and expect it to dry to sandable condition in 24 hrs.............

You must be using a different Dolphin glaze than I am. What I have will harden in 5 minutes or less, and be sandable in 10 minutes.You sure you're using enough hardner with it?
Randy

Well, there is a SMALL pouch of hardner with the glaze... the hardner is red and the other is a milky green... osund like the same one. the packaging is black.
Same one? Do you know if you can buy hardner by itself?
Bill

Bill:

Go to your local boat shop and buy MEK Peroxide. It's a liquid instead of the paste that comes with the glaze, but it's the active ingredient in the paste.

As with any polyester resin, the more hardEner you use, the faster it sets.

Bill.

That's the same stuff Bill. The red hardner is the same stuff that is used with the bondo types.
Randy

......Well, there is a SMALL pouch of hardner with the glaze... the hardner is red and the other is a milky green.

I just talked with our Collision Repair instructor about the Dolphin Glaze. He said that if you use too much hardner with it, it will also slow down the cure time, and if it was way too much, it wouldn't cure at all. I don't know your situation, but I hadn't heard that before. Like I said, what I used cured in about 5 minutes.
Randy

how much are you using... try to give me an example of the mixture
Thanks
Bill

For about 3 tablespoons of the glaze, I use enough hardner that would be equal to about the size of a new pencil eraser.
And then again, you could have a bad mix if that don't work. I thought personally that the pack of hardner supplied with the glaze was pretty skimpy. The CR instructor said "for a golfball size of the glaze, squeeze out a 1" strip of hardner."
Hope that helps
Randy

Yeah it was skimpy! I went to the local supplier and got some extra hardner. Bases on your measurements... I am not using enough.
I will give it another try now.
Thanks
Bill

Just ordered my QF C-130 today. It was nice that Bob returned my call, as I know he is busy. Looking forward to constructing this plane.

Craig.

Just ordered my QF C-130 today. .................

Welcome to the Herk club! I've been eyeballing that Beech D-18 he has as my next build.
Randy

Thanks rryman, I am glad to be part of this thread. I was also wondering if anyone has put a fowler type flap on thier C-130. I like the looks of the sliding flap instead of just a flap dropping down from the bottom of the wing. Any comments from anyone would be appreciated. Also I have no experience with constructing a three piece wing? So I will no doubt be asking you how to achieve this using the alluminum tube and the inserts for the wing.

Craig.

................Also I have no experience with constructing a three piece wing? So I will no doubt be asking you how to achieve this using the alluminum tube and the inserts for the wing.
========
That's a piece of cake! I got my wing tubes from Gator RC. The wings come already cut for the phenolic inserts.
Randy

I looked at a fowler flap but thought that the wing structure wasn't strong enough to hold it due to the foam compisition. I decided to make the split type flap and it is very effective. Jim

Thanks for the replies. The fowler flaps was just an idea, and I will probably go with the split flaps that you mentioned.

Craig.

Ok.. here is the track method of aligning engines... at least my version of it anyway, price tags and everything. I am putting the last fiberglass on the wings now... about 2 feet worth on the tip.
Next is to get the ailerons hinged. Then on to the nacelles.

Looks like you're on the right track Bill. If it's any consolation to you, after building my B-24, I don't believe that they have to be perfectly aligned. I got real close on the Herk, with the method I used, but I know it wasn't perfect. But it flies great.
The B-24 was another story. I had one dickens of a time getting those nacelles aligned because of the offset between #1 & 4, and 2 & 3. Even had to take one off and do it over it was so far out. It wasn't as easy to get the alignment as it was on the Herk. Anyway, there is definitely differences in the alignment on them. I was ready for some major trim problems on the first flight, but it just didn't happen. On a twin, I think it would possibly be magnified. But so far, I've got two four engine planes that you couldn't want to fly any better than they do. This bird you're building is a sweetheart. You'l love it. I'm going to fly at another site Sunday, out of a field that is much shorter than ours. Might be time for some STOL practice!!
Randy

I forgot to ask if there was any trimming of the nacelles on the outer engines? I was not sure if the lead edge started tapering to the rear by the time you got out to the outer wall of the nacelles. I hope this makes sense!
Bill

I believe you'll find that all four nacelles are on the straight part of the wing center section. I'm not sure that this is exactly scale or not, but I think all four are in a straight line. I believe the taper starts at the outer wing panel. (my wing is in the trailer) In any event, I haven't had any "critics" say anything about it yet! In fact, nobody has even noticed that my ailerons are 3" longer than they are supposed to be! (thanks to a screw up of mine!) Out of about 50 members in our club, only about 4 of us have warbirds, so we're not subject to close scrutiny!
Randy

Billy prop size determines engine spacing. If you use a 10" max dia prop you will have the engines on the straight part of the leading edge with no taper. I use a 10x6 on my saito .30's. If I had the saito .40 I would consider 3 blade props. This way it would keep under the 10" size. I allowed 3/4" between prop tips and so far this has been ok. But be sure to check the prop to fuselage clearance.

Your angle for engine installation looks very much like what I used. I actually put the rear have of the nacell on the firewall then mounted the nacell to the wing with the wing vertical. I had previously marked the wing for c/l of each nacell. I adjusted the nacell to keep it straight and centered up the 4 engines on the wing.

Now lets finish up and go flying.

I have held off on building anything due to our field closing down. Currently we have at least 3 fields being closed in the next 90 days with the closest flying field about 45 miles away. So this really nixes flying unless we can find a field. We have had several leads and there has always been something to prevent us from using it.[&o]

Jim

Why all the closures?
Bill