I like Randy's idea ! I am not a "museum scale" nut either, I just love to see the birds fly , on my P38 I countersunk the bolt heads into the wing and have some very basic skills on my small shop lathe and turned some "buttons: that press into the holes, I guess I could have spent a little more time and added a few dummy rivets and they would look like inspection ports, I need to know what you guys are using for wheels, size, type Mike

........I need to know what you guys are using for wheels, size, type.... Mike
I am using standard Du-Bro Low Bounce all around-3.00T on the mains and 2.25T for nose gear. I also found very useful the Du-Bro #615 E/Z Adjust axle for the dual nose wheels. This works pretty slick to adapt two nose wheels. I did add a make shift spring to my nose gear just to give some shock absorbtion on landing/taxiing since the nose gear strut doesn't have a coil on it. Noting fancy, but it does work. I could hear it when I had it in the back yard briefly taxiing the plane. Among other strange habits I have, I collect springs of al types and sizes, so I found one that worked just right. I'm not sure the 5/32 wire on the mains is going to be sufficient. I think Jimcork said something about they would bend under landing loads. I'd like to come up with a way to put some sort of spring on the mains also so as not to transmit all the shock to the fuselage. Maybe I should concentrate on a smooth landing!!
Frankly, I never did figure out how they can slam an F-14 on a carrier deck like they do without parts shedding everywhere!
Have you guys seen the video of the C-130 landing on the carrier and then taking off? It's pretty cool. No arresting hook for landing and no catapult for take off!
Randy

I'll be using the du-bro "lite" wheels and the sizes stated. Hey, I was thinking about puting a robo-strut nose gear on mine. Now I'm thinking if I should buy 4 robo-struts and engineer them into the main landing gear system. Hmmm, got myself thinking.

Well my wood came yesterday and the wing tube. I re-ordered a new wing tube "thinner aluminum wall tubing" but this time 30 inches long. Still waiting for my composite flap materials and glass cloth.

See yah for now,
Gunny

Oh yeah.! Sometimes I like to use 1/4-20 aluminum wing bolts. I throw them out at 100 flights. Because I only wonder when fatigue will settle in.
Gunny

Well I'm using Robart 3" scale wheels threaded/w foam inserts with my Gene Barton retracts units....have the spring loaded struts ( main only)..nose wheel is not spring loaded using 2" robart scale wheels on nose gear (2)..ground clearance is 1 3/4"..am happy with this set up...Will use steel 1/4-20 wing bolts...remember mine is going to weight around 25 Ibs..........yep,I build heavy....Excuse me,while I get back to my 3 engine Italian bomber.....heeeeeeeeyyyyyyyyyyyyy, thats Italian......Kapish?

gunny, where are you buying your wood from?

I had ordered some 48" lenghts sheets from balsa usa. Not very light, but not bad quality. These sheets are for the center section, but only from the CG forward to the LE, to help with the strength of the wing and the weight of the engine nacells. I am going to buy the rest of the sheeting from lone star balsa. The 4 - 7 lb bundle and AAA bundle. I want to keep this model light. Around the 15 lb mark. 12 lbs would be better. I'm also using only on the center section .6 oz glass cloth, everywhere else will get the .5 oz glass cloth. All 1/4" ply will be replaced with 1/4" composite end-grain balsa panels. ie, fire walls and wing mounts. This stuff is 1/2 the weight of 1/4" birch aircraft ply. I like to build light but also strong. If I build too lite, I can allways add balast weight. If I build too heavy, I'm stuck with it.

Thanks,
Gunny

what glue/ adhesive are you using to sheet the wing with? Many of us have had very bad luck with he Dave Brown stuff.

Yes I've to had bad luck once with the dave brown sorgum stuff. Thats why I only used it once. I have been using the 3M super 77 spray adhesive with ecxellent results. Used it on the past 3 planes. One of them is now 14 years old with 200 + flights on it and not a problem. The key is to smoth sand the cores with fine paper and vacume up the dust. AND FOLLOW THE CAN (3M 77) TO A TEE)

Gunny

Jusst be sure to use the right 3M stuff. Some of it will dissolve foam. I used that as well as Elmers polyurethane and Gorilla Glue, which is basically the same stuff as Elmers, but I think it sets up faster.
Randy

Yes I am aware of the 3m problems of the newer/other cans.
gunny

re wood, I do not know what it is like down your neck of the woods but up here in Canada I found out that one of the local construction supply stores sells planks of BALSA !!! I bought a 72 " piece of 2X6 for $40 and have cut about $300 worth of stuff out of it, the neat thing was that you can custom cut spars and sheeting to what ever size you need at the time, I am lucky enough to have the wood working tools to cut it, I also found that the plank varied from hard to soft and you could pick and choose what you needed MIke

rryman,
I have been folowing all the threads on the C-130. Could you please tell me where I can get the kit you are building. Nobody mentions the kit manufacturer.

Bob S

[email protected]

My kit came from Bob Sealy at Quality Fiberglass, Cookville, Tenn. His website is below. I'm very satisfied with mine.
Randy

http://www.ucrcs.com/quality1.htm

I ordered the plans from Palmer Plans and will be ordering my 132"ws Herc from Precision cut kits.

http://www.mag-web.com/rc-modeler/palmer/

http://www.precisioncutkits.com/index.html

Grinder.

Got more supplies in today, glass and epoxy resin. The nice people over at aerospace composites gave me the 30 minute stuff. I asked for the 60 minute stuff, even the invoce said 60 minute stuff. Aey vey[] Can 30 minute stuff be used?

OK. I have decided to go robo-struts all around [sm=punching.gif]. Nose gear and all four mains. The nose gear is cake. Use robart stearing nose gear with a straight strut and single axle with dual nose wheels. I had a brite idea today at work about how to go about mounting the 4 main struts. When I got home from work today I built a test mounting piece and it works. So simple I cant believe it and I will be able to adjust the height of ALL gears if need be.

gunny

In an earlier posting here(don't know which one.you'll have to look for it).the current black can of 3m spray adhesive, it will melt the foam....get the 'White" can as the posting mentions...check it out..could save you a wing

When I was Fg'ing my first wing, I used the finishing resin by Zap and thinned it down with denatured alcohol. I dries in an hour or so and sands really good. When you thin it down, it goes on very smooth!

Is anyone building the Jet Hangar Hobbies c-130? Just curious as to the simplicity or complexity of this model.

Sorry Gunny taking so long to respond. The flaps leave about 1/8" at the T/Edge of the wing. This has not been an issue.

What will be an issue is all the !#@$#@ oil that blows on the left side of the fuse. I have the mufflers pointing straight down but the swirling air from the props really paste the oil on the left side of the fuse. from the leading edge of the wing back to the rear door. It takes quite a bit of paper towels to clean it all up. (I use Bounty). Any one else flying yet. I am rained in today. 100% chance of rain and 40 degrees. Eventhough I am ready to test fly there is no good weather forecast for the next week. UGH. [:'(]

I finally got more info on the "Huge" Fat Albert C-130 pic I posted about a page back. I ordered the video of the 2003 La Ferte Giant Scale meet in France and it is on that video.
It was built in 1993
Wingspan: 20ft. 4in.
Weight: 187# ( I guess we don't build heavy after all!)
Engines: Titan 38's
Props: 20 x 10
Radio: JR w/14 servos.
Looks like it flies real well. It's a pretty good video if you want to see some really huge planes. Also on the tape is a 450# B-29 with a 29' wingspan, a 39' sailplane, which by the way is towed up with another model tow plane. The tape came from PropWash Videos.
Randy

Thanks guys for the report back. Jimcork, thats funny I always use bounty. It's the best oil quicker picker upper. I thought they would be a little close to the fues. Got even more stuff in today for the herk.

Thanks,

Gunny

Regarding the oil blowing on the fuse, I have installed the Du Bro rubber exhaust deflectors, hoping that it will keep some of it away from the plane, but really can't tell what will happen until it flies. I suspect Jim is right, that the prop wash is going to plaster it all over the place. I have had some cases where putting on the deflector made it worse, I think by the fact that it collects the oil and rather than getting blown out in a spray, just blows off in drops and more of it gets on the fuse, stab, etc.
Randy

Nice picture of the engine nacell.

gunny

well, I accounted for the weight of the balsa wood for all three wing panels, horizontal stab and the rudder. I'm up now 1 lb. (wood not trimed yet in length or width.) Still debating on monokoting the outer panels and tail. Just debating.

Gunny