Hi Shawn

I have a few pictures of the JHH C-130 in Gallery. The plans from JHH leave alot to be desired (very little detail vs. palmer plans on the other side of the spectrum). The kit (fiberglass fuse, foam wings) are excellent. I found there are very few "kit" C-130's at this size. The retracts are custom (guy in Missouri with a bridgeport mill)....very sturdy!! I believe I'm the 2nd buyer of this kit....very happy with construction. The gentleman building this is Dave Gauer. If you would like to contact him, let me know at [email protected].

Bob

p.s. Dave Gauer has drawn up some detail (formers/spars/etc.) for this plane and sent to Larry Wolfe (Owner of JHH).

Bob (rdavit) what are those bulkheads made of? Foam or ply? I though about doing similar to that, but with foam and fiberglass.
Bill R.

Billy,
I am making all mine from Balsa for my 133incher, even tho Palmer Plans suggest foam board. I found out FB was about the same weight as medium soft balsa, inch for inch!
Mark

Hi Bill

The bulkheads are made with ply. A gallon tank will be resting on these...but fiberglass would work just as well...and is the better way to go for weight. This beast will be HEAVY....no IMAC maneuvers for this bird....plan for power on landings....having fun!

Bob

P.S. Mark, Bill, C-130 junkies: Throw some pics of your current builds into the gallery.

Hey Randy, what does the can of 3M spray look like? I know htere are at least two different formulations - one eats foam, and the other does not. I might give it a try that way. Did you have to hold the skins down or put them in the saddles much with the spray on?
Bill R.

PS.... my pain in the butt class is over !!!!!!! I can have more time to work on the C130.

Hey Randy, what does the can of 3M spray look like?
==========The pic is the good stuff. I laid the cores in the shucks while I did the top side just to keep them straight. Other than that, when you lay the balsa sheet on the core be sure it's right, there won't be any moving it once it's down. That's the OV-10 fuse in the background. Getting it ready for paint.
Randy

I am going to order my sheeting from Balsa USA in the next day or two. It is the cheapest I have found. Locally, a sheet of 1/16 x 36 x 4 is around three bucks per sheet. So after screwing up the first wing..... I have to minimize the costs on the second.
I will look for the 3M tommorow. Is there any cure time or adhesion time? I have used it before for other things and it seemed to stick fairly quickly. Wish me luck
Bill

Billy,
I don't know if this is any cheaper but I get all my balsa from Lone Star Balsa out of Lancaster, Texas, and run by Riley Wooten. I tried to drag their web site over to this post and lost everything so without an aol, email address, I guess you will have to find on your own. Should be no big problem.
But here is a sample of their prices, 1/16 x 4 x 36 costs 82 cents each, and under Wide Balsa sheets & Blocks, in their directory, they have actual wing skins 1/16 x 12 x 36 for $5.62 each. You might want to check them before ordering. I like their quality of wood. If you have any problem finding them contact me at [email protected]
Mark

I got mine from them (lone star balsa) too.

gunny

When we did the "Super Duellist 2/60 Mk II" kits we got all the wood from Bud Nosen. We invited bids from other suppliers also, including Lone Star and Balsa USA. Bud Nosen's bid was substantially lower than the others. Even with the good prices our order was about $5,000, an order of $50-$100 might not get as good a deal, but it's worth investigating.

Bill.

I´m happy , The Palmer´s planes arrived.
I have decided to extend the scale of the C-130 in a 20%. The C-130 will be in a scale of 1:10 160"
I will maintain informed of how the model will evolve.

Here is a little of what you will have to do.

Mark.

Which is the error that has the plans?

So far, I have found, the nose has a piece of plywood butted against a piece of balsa to connect together. I did not make my nose the way plans call for, and have not finished it, so may have even more changes compared to plans. Can you email me at [email protected]?
Mark

Finally, a decent flying day. Despite a few occasional gusts, pretty good flying. Got a flight in on the AC-47, and two flights in on the Herk. Pictures attached. Landing pic a little blurry. Everyone impressed with the scale looking take offs and landings. I found that landing with a little more power on really helps. It will settle in nice at about 1/8 throttle. Had to clean grass out of fuselage. You'll have to get used to that unless you close in your wheel wells, which may prove to be dfficult and still work on the gear.
Randy

Randy:

Nice.

You didn't raise the gear on these flights? Or just missed pictures with wheels retracted?

Bill.

I didn't put in retracts--yet. I have plenty of room to install them if I figure out a way to build my own main retracts. The Palmer plans show some, but I haven't really studied them that close yet. I think I could probably come up with something on my own sooner or later.
Randy

nice randy,

Really nice.

Gunny

Many congrads on the flights. Very realistic. I saw your note about a little power in landing, I have to do the same thing to make the roundout. Do you use flaps. I found that landing at 50% flaps makes a better landing than full. I do use full for t/o's.

Great work,, Jim

I also had a big problem with grass in the fuse. I was forced to raise the fuse another 1" for ground clearance. This reduced belly drag when the grass isn't fresh clipped. Jim

Nice Randy,

Very realistic.
Congratulation Randy!!!
Beplo

Beautiful Herk!!! Nice pictures of takeoff and landing (hands still shaking?)

I fly on grass....same concern...only about 2 1/2" of clearance with gear fully extended (retracts).

Also.....using 9CAP radio: Synching engines 1 & 4 through radio.....any thoughts on 2 & 3 ?? (thinking about electronic synchronizer....the one with the magnets in the backplate).

Thank you

Bob

P.S. at final paint/detail...about 90% done here

Bob:

The EMS/Jomar engine synchronizer unit can be used as supplied for any two engines, whether they are the only engines on the plane, the two on one wing, the inners only, or just the outers.

By usingtwo uits on a four engined plane, you could lock the left pair with one, and the right pair with the second. Then, using the "Twinman" method you could sync the two pairs with the transmitter mixes and curves. Or you could use a third engine sync unit to lock the two pairs for absolute engine synchronization.

I have the EMS/Jomar uit on one of my twins, I like it very much, it works fine. But I've not seen it as a necessity. But if I were to build a four engined plane I would give the three-unit installation some serious thought. Two engines are bad enough when giving problems, three, maybe OK. But four? Hey, EMS, Help!

Bill.

Bill

I concur. I'll use them on outer and inner engines (1 & 4 , 2 &3), if master goes, slave goes with it......2 systems. I took your advice on this about 1 1/2 years ago on a P-38 (Royal Kit) and never used due to radio synch capability with the 9CAP radio (at that time I have a 6XAS). Thank you again Bill (will purchase).

Bob

Bob:

You have a misconception of the fail mode of the EMS/Jomar unit. If the slave engine quits the controller will drive its servo to full, as you would expect. However, if it loses the rpm signal from the master the unit drops out, leaving direct throttle control of the slave.

Bill.