OK will do Bill .. I will let you know how the test works out.

Bill,
I puchased my Twin Sync around 9/1/2006 and haven't had a plane to put it in as the plane I ordered it for met a violent death. I would like to have it brought up to date and if possible have a readout panel installed I have a Nitro Models P38 to put it in. Will it operate on 6.0 Volts? I need to know the cost of all this and where to send it. You can email me at [email protected].

Bob

I sent you an email.

Bill,
I Put it in the mail today.

Bob

I have just now posted my vid of the Duellist 260 with twin sync on RC Video ..You can refer to post 335 above for the story on what is going on in the vid.

http://www.rcuvideos.com/item/7VCPTXLS0PMRHZHZ

Pete,
Provide the URL to the vid..

Thanks,
Robby

here you go

http://www.rcuvideos.com/item/7VCPTXLS0PMRHZHZ

Pete

Hi,

I ordered a twinsync + accessories on the 5th June, how could I know if it has been shipped or not yet? I have received no shipping notice from rcshowcase yet...

Thanks,
Rob

*subscribe*

Bill,
Is one battery enough to drive two glow plugs using the built in glow driver in the original TwinSync? The documentation shows one battery powering four plugs. I just need to know if one battery is enough for two.

It depends on the battery. I would say a 4500 D-cell would be fine. A single 3000-3300 sub-C will probably have 15-20 mins of glow time as a guess based on experiments. Really depends on your battery and how long you spend starting or below 3500RPM if in automatic mode. I use two 1800 AAs.

something i noticed today on my p-38 it depends on which engine is started first. if i start left engine then right i have problems with one engine dieing. if i start right engine first then left everything is fine! is this just me? or is it something to do with the programing?
i have a first production version but recent update
thx
todd

You can always fix this issue with programming. Simply program in new idle points (servo's will never move below the programmed idle points while syncronizing). You may also want to program new sync points (this is the throttle position the device starts synchronizing). The device does nothing except act as a "Y" cable if you are below the sync point. The other possibility is if you have a loose glowplug clip vibrating (or an unshielded spark plug wire), it can cause glitches while starting the engine.

the problem starts showing up within about 3-5 mins after starting both engines, and usally when going to full throttle (while holding on the ground as engines come up to temp.) at or near full throttle the right (always the right) dies. but this only happens if i start the left engine first. if i start the right first this does not happen. and i do tune each engine by themselves before firing both engines. i have also noticed that when tuning each engine i will end up with just over 10,500 rpm, with both running only about 9400 rpm is possible. these are .61s on a nitro 100 inch p-38

I know what is going on with the 9400 rpm versus 10,500. If you make a rapid transistion from low throttle to high you will not get full rpm. How the device works is that it senses a change in throttle stick. When it senses a change it moves the servos to the new position then wait about 1/2 a second and starts synchronizing them. If the engines have not reached full RPM at the end of the 1/2 second it will pull the faster one back to match the slower one. There are a few solutions:

1. Move the stick slower
2. I have a custom chip that turns off synchronizing above 90% throttle (so you can get full power even if they are not in sync). I built this version for the Cessna 337.
3. I can increase the time after moving servos until it starts synchronizing for you.
4. move the stick back a little then go back to full throttle and it should go to max RPM.

As for the engine quitting I am not sure what could be causing this. Send me an email [email protected] with your phone number and I will call you to get into some more detailed questions to try to figure this out.

Hi Bill,

I received my twinsync, upon trying to program it, it seems that one of the red LED's and one of the yellow LED's do not turn on at the device itself - making it hard to program - setting the selector switch to position 6, has some very interesting results - the 2 LED's that work for the programming just do their own thing. please see the picture below for the twinsync i was supplied - it's a large image, this is on purpose because i believe the soldering on the led's is badly done - i think they are shorting themselves. I'm not sure what other effects this might have on the unit.

[link=http://www.nandos.eu.org/gallery/planes/cessna310/IMG_2041.JPG.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1]http://www.nandos.eu.org/gallery/planes/cessna310/IMG_2041.JPG.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1[/link]

I've further discovered, using the display, and having both sensors being affected by a magnet (the green led's work) .. only 1 RED flashes showing that the glowplugs are not working correctly (i havent connected them yet) - also, nothing but 0000 appears on the display.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rob

Yes this looks like a problem. I will talk to the assembly house as to how this unit went through quality control and testing. I will send you a replacement that I personally will test before shipping it. Please send me yours back after you get the replacement so I can show it to the assembly guys and get this quality issue fixed. My appologies. Please email me your shipping address to [email protected]

That's fantastic.. I've mailed you my shipping address already..

I have a question or 2 about the display unit - are the LED's on this supposed to show what is showing on the main unit?
Also - the documentation about how the glow drivers are supposed to be connected is a little vague - I figured it out by looking at the common power track on each connector.

Thank you! that is a great response time!!

Regards,
Rob

Yes the LEDs on the remote display are the same as on the unit (except for programming). The Green LEDs on the remote display are not as fast as the prop so they just blink when their is RPM rather than varying brightness like on the main board. Manual has just been updated to support the remote glow drivers. I will email you the updated manual that includes instructions on the new glowdrivers.

Hi Bill: Yesterday at the field I was going to move the (switch # 4 ) timing up to see if I could get just a bit faster sync ...after start up I found to now have the same problem as (post 297) ......each engine works fine but when both are on line and above sync they work for a bit then BOTH drop in RPM then I can still move the throttles on till the next failure .... I move the timing back to stock and still have the same problem .. I have a Hitec Optic 6 with a HIT23870 Supreme 7 channel Rec.

I did disconnect the LCD panel Which I still need to replace and still had the same problem.

I did try four runs trying different fixes but same problem.

Cheers

I haven't gotten to the bottom of that issue yet. I asked him to try a number of things and let me know what he found. I can give you the list as well.

1. Remove the IC and re-install it in the socket (one guy reported this issue and I sent him another unit. Removing the IC from the socket and reinstalling it seem to fix the problem forever.
2. Move switch to position 7. hold down BOTH buttons and turn the power on. This does a complete factory reset setting everything back to as it came new from the factory.

I expect you have a problem with a sensor but trying the above two things will rule out other things quickly.

In order for the engines to pull back one of the RPM sensors has to be losing signal. Now we have to figure out which one it is. One thing that may work (I am on vacation this weekend and can't try it) is to connect engine1 RPM sensor to a Y cable and then plug it into RPM1 and RPM2 sensors. Run engine1 watching both engine1 and engine2 servos to see if they ever pull back. Now repeat the process with RPM sensor#2 connected to both Engine 1 sensor and Engine2 sensor via a "Y" cable. Run engine2 and see if either servo ever pulls back. This might confirm that both sensors are working properly.

Do the engines stay in sync the whole time that they pull back? What happens after they pull back - do you have throttle control or do you have to go to idle (below sync point) to regain control?

Yes the engines stay in sync the whole time .... if I am at full throttle it may move both back to 3/4 at the same time ....then I move the throttle either way and they work in sync ... either going up or down it will drop in rpm but stay running I need not return to off throttle to get throttle control.

It sounds to me like you have a flakey sensor. I will send you two sensors and a display.

Bill

OK Thanks Bill .... Have a good holiday

Hi Bill,

I got the replacement unit and will post back the faulty one in the morning, have the new one attached and was connecting things up to see it all light up nicely.. which it did, for the most part - however, the one glowplug driver doesnt seem to work (properly?) the red LED associated with it continues to blink slowly as if there was nothing plugged into it, with the other one, the red LED goes solid.. the amber led's on the drivers both turn on.. where do i start looking for a fault if it is not a faulty unit?

thanks in advance!

Rob