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"Nosen Cessna 310 Club"

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"Nosen Cessna 310 Club"

Old 10-23-2018, 04:26 AM
  #1576  
ken barkhouse
 
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The stabilizer is permanently installed now, the garolite tubes are bonded in the tail and the haves along with the aluminum tubes can be removed for storage & transportation. I need to adjust some wood on the stab as there is a bit of mismatch between the glass and the stab. The fillet between the fuse and the stab matches on the bottom side but is out on the top, nothing I canít get cleaned up in the next night or two. I need to installed the hard points in the fuse to fasten the stabs and then I can install the tail cone. The wings are set at 1 degree positive incidence and the stab at 0 degrees. Setting the tail and squaring the wings to the fuse & stab to the wings was not fun, add the removable stab tubes to the equation and itís even better!
Old 10-23-2018, 04:41 AM
  #1577  
ken barkhouse
 
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Default Robart Problems

I spent a night playing with my Robart electric retract conversion kits and Iím less than happy with them. I was dead out of the box but I managed to pull it apart and get it working.... to get a warranty part I need to pull it apart again, ďundoĒ the fix, take a picture and submit for warranty or mail it back as is to assess. If I mail it back there wouldnít be any fault to find so whatís the point? I was given the option to buy another actuator for half price when itís DOA right out of the bag.... I have to say these things are junk, the jackscrew is the problem and itís press fit together on a .100Ē spline, not even TIG welded together.

Given the slightly ďaggressiveĒ customer service approach they took with me I canít say I would consider buying their product again. I purchased directly from them a few days ago, they have the transaction history, explained in great detail the problem and the internal construction of the ďsealedĒ Jack screw that came apart and wonít do anything without pictures. I canít event get a replacement jack screw, only the complete actuator if I pay for half of it! Given the shipping cost back and forth between Canada and the USA itís not worth it, especially when customer service states ďsomeone is always trying to get something for freeĒ ***?

Sorry for for the rant, I canít even explain how displeased I am with their support, $2-$3k in an airplane and I have to deal with this crappy actuator and a less than pleasing customer service approach.

Last edited by ken barkhouse; 10-23-2018 at 05:57 AM.
Old 10-23-2018, 04:37 PM
  #1578  
Bill Diedrich
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I have heard that others have had less than pleasant problems with the electric retract versions that Robart is selling. One of our club members ordered a set for their
Giant Scale Top Flite P-47 and they didn't work out of the box and had some rather disappointing phone conversations with customer service at Robart, finally gave up,
had a machinist friend convert them back to air actuated retracts.

Sorry you are having the problems with Robart, but hey the 310 is looking some kind of awesome, have you picked a color scheme for it as of yet?

Bill D,
Old 10-23-2018, 07:06 PM
  #1579  
heinzulrich
 
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I went with Century Jet retracts, electric. With the ability to also operate the doors. And had no problems at all with them. Perhaps you should check them out.
i just did a search for century Jet and did not realize that they are no longer in business . When I had purchased my gear from them they also came with a sequencer for the doors.

Last edited by heinzulrich; 10-24-2018 at 09:54 AM. Reason: forgot to add some information
Old 02-21-2019, 05:20 PM
  #1580  
NMZ
 
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Just received my 310 short kit from Tim at AMA Models. VERY nice kit. Plans are superb, including the reverse image of the wing plan. Laser cutting looks fantastic. Wood quality is great - ply is great, very hard balsa where it needs to be, lighter where it needs to be.
Packaging of the kit was superb too. I had it mailed to an address in LA, an airline friend picked it up there for me and brought it home to Australia. I can recommend this short kit.
Old 02-21-2019, 05:58 PM
  #1581  
boothg-3
 
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You will like the plane ,flys like it’s on rails
i have Dle 30,s on mine,word of caution the nacelles are narrow and required re enforcing with aluminum
the original plane was designed for .61cc glo engines
Old 02-21-2019, 08:43 PM
  #1582  
NMZ
 
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Very good. I'm hoping that I'll use some .61's in mine. I had an 8 foot ARF 310 with two OS46 in it, oodles of power, and still aerobatic on one engine too.
Old 02-22-2019, 12:22 PM
  #1583  
NMZ
 
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Other retract options:
https://www.electron-retracts.com/
Old 02-22-2019, 12:27 PM
  #1584  
ken barkhouse
 
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Default Update




Itís been a while but since this thread has come back to life I figured I would post a few pictures of where Iím at. Iím installing wiring harnesses and then Iím going to start glassing the wings. Not too much left after that, gear doors in the center wing and then onto the Fuselage detailing. Opening door, vacuum form the windows and the cockpit kit are next.
Old 02-28-2019, 04:17 AM
  #1585  
Bill Diedrich
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Looks really great, have you put her on the scales lately to see what she is at
weight wise? You have done a really great job, keep it going, looking forward
to the finished aircraft!
Old 02-28-2019, 05:02 AM
  #1586  
bps
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Awesome! Thanks for sharing your incredible work!
Old 02-28-2019, 05:18 AM
  #1587  
ken barkhouse
 
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I'll get some weights this weekend, I want to finish mounting as much hardware as possible to get some accurate numbers. She will be heavy once you factor in the electric retracts and adding the cockpit, I guess it was a good idea to go with the twin 36cc vs the 22cc engines. It's finally at the point where it all the small details to finish, it's not as exciting as the start of the build where you get to see some real progress being made. I'm trying to juggle this build and 2 fiberglass Super Chipmunks at the same time and it's a lot of work! Trying to coordinate the builds so I'm working on the same items at the same time keeps me on track but is a lot to manage, soon it's going to be time to glass the flying surfaces and start the detailing.
Old 02-28-2019, 05:22 AM
  #1588  
ken barkhouse
 
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I almost forgot, MR Aerodesign radial beaver is on the bench to finish at the same time.
Old 04-11-2019, 03:50 AM
  #1589  
Bill Diedrich
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Any Updates on the 310 Ken? looking forward to seeing the outcome of you hard work, looking awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bill D.
Old 04-17-2019, 08:28 AM
  #1590  
Antares100
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Beautiful work! I have a Nosen 310 kit still in the box. I have 2 OS FS61 engines new in the box. Looking for opinions/suggestions in using the 4-strokes or just putting in .60 two strokes (FS60's). Thanks in advance.
Antares100
Old 04-17-2019, 08:40 AM
  #1591  
Bill Diedrich
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Originally Posted by Antares100 View Post
Beautiful work! I have a Nosen 310 kit still in the box. I have 2 OS FS61 engines new in the box. Looking for opinions/suggestions in using the 4-strokes or just putting in .60 two strokes (FS60's). Thanks in advance.
Antares100
Most of the 310's built as of late are powered by gas engines around 20cc and up. Built "light" the 2 61 2 strokes would probably fly it but it would be very marginal on power, as the 310 has a lot of inherent drag. Back in the beginning when the aircraft was designed, 60's were the largest engines available. In a conversation I had
with Bud Nosen several years ago, he still owned the original prototype that was powered by 2 stoke 60's and occasionally flew it from time to time.

Is the kit you have an original Bud Nosen kit or is it one of the AA Industry kits?

Bill D.

Last edited by Bill Diedrich; 04-17-2019 at 08:42 AM. Reason: spelling
Old 04-17-2019, 06:13 PM
  #1592  
Antares100
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I don't remember, I have two of them, both re-boxed when I got them, both still have original plans and instructions (sorry about the mis-information before, I was in a hurry). I have 2 FS90 Surpasses, not the FS 61s.. I am assuming they would be powerful enough, but still interested in opinions/suggestions. I will probably have time to dig them out and I'll let you know.
Old 04-18-2019, 04:55 AM
  #1593  
Bill Diedrich
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On the Bud Nosen kits the die-cutting was usually very "crisp" and the parts usually almost fell out
of the sheets, however when AA Industries bought out the kit lines, after a short period, the cutters
became dull and most of the kits as we refer to them were "die-crushed", meaning the edges of the
parts were not clean and sometime needed to be totally replaced as they were unusable. Also the
wood selection on the original Bud Nosen kits was very good, on the AA Industries kits, not so good.

If my memory serves me right my "partner in crime, Too Low" on this forum had a 310 that was
powered by a couple of OS FS-90's, built "very light" the 310 should fly without any problems on
the 4-stroke 90's, but again a bit more power on this plane is very useful, as many of the older
veterans on this forum would tell you, plus the reliability of the "gas" engines on a twin are a plus
compared to glow power. If I were ever to build another one I would go with a pair of the small
gas engines that are available in the 20-30 cc range. But this is your project and I know with
retracts the cost of getting one of the Nosen 310's airborne isn't for the average RC modeler
and flyer. Also remember when selecting the power for the Nosen 310, that the more you put
into it, retracts, onboard batteries for ignition or to keep glow plugs lit at idle or low throttle settings
the more the weight increases, hence the need for more power. If you are absolutely sure you want
to use the FS-90's then I would suggest that you plan on using fixed landing gear, the choice is yours.

Bill D.
Old 04-18-2019, 05:45 PM
  #1594  
Antares100
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Thanks for responding, Bill. Yes, I will probably be using fixed gear, not just for weight reduction but seems it is hard to find dependable electric gear from reading this thread. I always try to build as light as possible. Thanks again!
Old 04-19-2019, 01:55 PM
  #1595  
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Originally Posted by Bill Diedrich View Post
Most of the 310's built as of late are powered by gas engines around 20cc and up. Built "light" the 2 61 2 strokes would probably fly it but it would be very marginal on power, as the 310 has a lot of inherent drag. Back in the beginning when the aircraft was designed, 60's were the largest engines available. In a conversation I had
with Bud Nosen several years ago, he still owned the original prototype that was powered by 2 stoke 60's and occasionally flew it from time to time.

Is the kit you have an original Bud Nosen kit or is it one of the AA Industry kits?

Bill D.
Bill is right I have a 310 that was powered with a pair of Fox 74's and once in the air and not climbing it flew ok but during climb out it was a bit scary. I went from the 74's to OS 1.08s and it was a whole other airplane I now fly it on 2 E-Flite power 160's on 10 cell batteries for each motor and it by far is the best and flies like it's on rails so in short go with a small gas engine cause the 310 is a lot of work to build and worth the time to do right
Old 11-21-2019, 11:41 AM
  #1596  
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Started a new build. G&L fiberglass fuselage and a shortkit I purchased on Ebay. Planning on using 30CC gas with twinsynch.



30CC gas.
Old 11-22-2019, 04:19 AM
  #1597  
Bill Diedrich
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Great to see that there are still 310's being built out there.
Good luck with the project and keep the posts of your progress
coming.

Bill D.
Old 12-30-2019, 09:55 AM
  #1598  
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More progres on the build.
Old 04-25-2020, 01:44 AM
  #1599  
NMZ
 
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Welcome to 2020 finally.
Does anyone have a bill of materials - primarily balsa required? For a plans build. I have the AMA Models laser cut short kit
Thanks
Norm in Australia

Back in the air after 2 years without one - I managed to get a new in box 8 foot span ARF 310. 6.5kg weight, 2 x OS46AX out of my previous 310.
The ply thing behind it is a wing from my current Experimental build, Melendez MB-1 FirStar, from Texas. (No, you won't find it on google either!)

Old 04-25-2020, 10:10 AM
  #1600  
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Default Hello Handyman

Hey Handyman,
I have picked up an airframe for a Nosen 310 and was also thinking about putting in a pair or 160 electric motors but run 8s on each since I have lots of 4s packs.
I do have a few questions.
1. Did you have to add any weight to get the CG worked out?
2. What size and how many blades is your prop?
It looks like an 18" prop is the largest I can go and still have ground clearance
3. Were you able to load the batteries through the original fuel tank opening or did you enlarge it?.
4. What is your RTF weight?
Thanks, Gary



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