b.b.
When installing the round, snap-rings that attach the EZ connetors to a servo arm or control horn this works real well:
Drill a 1/16 hole in a piece of wood, place the snap ring over the hole and the arm over the snap-ring, hold the EZ connector atop everything and tap it with a light hammer. Nothing flies anywhere(bt, dt) and all goes together easily.

That's a good idea, thanks. I found a snap washer today sitting on the couch. I just looked down and there it was.

We must be talking about apples and oranges. I use these connectors for my H-stabs.

From the same company that makes outdoors equipment as well. Get R done.

The glue had cured on the elevator pushrods so I got those put on. I tried setting up the pull-pull cable, but the cable broke. I think I may have put a bend in it trying to get a small loop. Are my loops too small? Oh, and I was talking about the DuBro connectors that go on the control horns and have a set screw.

Our very first hardware kits used those Dubro kwik links, but I learned of two problems very quickly.

The little slide locker is so thin it will straighten out the first time you push on it. Worse, the little pin is just pressed into one side. When you push it out to clear the servo arm it almost always falls out on the floor or in the grass. It's so tiny that it gets lost and there are no spares available.

That's why we use the Sullivan parts.

TF

The EZ connectors to which I was referring are the barrel-shaped or hexagonal brass connectors that attach to servo arms. The wire on the pushrod slides through a hole in the brass fitting and is secured with a set-screw. These connectors make it possible to make very fine mechanical adjustments to the control set-up without opening and closing clevises at the control surface. Once set up I use a drop of Locktite on the set screws.

Are these fitting appropriate for a 28% W.H. Edge????

Use the EZ connectors on chokes, throttle maybe, but other then that, your waiting for an accident to happen[:'(]

The only place I use those are on throttle and now choke. I would never trust one to a control surface on any plane.

Ben,
Wrap a piece of fuel tubing (split down the side) around the pick up wire for better protection and then secure with a few cable ties.
The insulation could vibrate against the engine mount and be worn through.
Everything else is looking real good.

zzw26n,
I am not questioning your reply. However, have you ever had one of these EZ connectors fail? I have recently re-entered R/C after a thirty year hiatus and a lot is new. I have used these connectors very successfully on a Bruce Tharpe Flyin'King. It is fairly large (79"span), but light (about 10 pounds) and flies in a manner (slowly) that does not heavily load the control surfaces.
I am about to start on my W.H. 28% Edge and did not intend to use these connectors in that airplane....I agree with you!
However, I wonder how unreliable these connectors are.
Anyone out there have anything to ad?? OR, is this a new thread?

I wouldnt even use them for the choke or throttle..I had them come off my throttle on my 60 size glow planes..last week my buddy was flying his 4 star 40 and lost the throttle..loctite and everything..when you move up to these planes you need to step up the hardware a bit

EZ connectors are not appropriate for a plane this big on the control surfaces.

I use them all the time on throttle and choke, though.

TF

Yes a few dozen of those brass things later I may switch to the Sullivan ones. Kudos for using those on your Hardware kits. There is a method behind all the hardware included and it makes sense!

The Edge would be a neat electric conversion. A big electric flying buddy of mine is asking about converting a WH.

Ben - the pull-pull wire works great, but I also like to use the kevlar pull pull cable.

Josey,
Just for information purposes: What was the failure mode of the connectors? Did the set-screw loosen, or did the entire connector come adrift of the servo arm??

T.F.,
Won't use them in my Edge!!! I do like the Sullivan clevises better, also.

Set screw came loose..actually it didnt fall off but came loose enough so the pushrod just slid in and out..No way that sucker is coming off the servo arm..once you snap that star washer on fugetabout it!![8D]

Thanks for the tip flier, I'll be sure to do that. I may just do a few inches since most of the wire is not near anything. Now, I just have to figure out what to do with the wire going to the spark plug. The Edge is almost done, I'm basically just waiting on the new wing panels so I can balance it. I have the plywood plates glued to the wheel pants. I need to add axles and wheels on the landing gear. Got the pull-pull going now that I got some more crimps. Radio for the elevators and throttle/choke is good to go. I have batteries and switches installed now to. Probably get the glue going on the canopy tomorrow.

Ok, so I got a sudden burst of energy and did the canopy tonight. The tape stays on for as long as possible. The canopy glue takes a while to dry. If I get to test run the engine Sat., I'll leave the hatch at home. I usually give it a week before I subject it to any prop blast.

I worked on the wheel pants tonight. As usual, I used Sig wheel pant mounts. If you have never used these, I suggest that you pick some up and try them out. I had to make my own plywood mounts, but if you can work a saw, that's easy enough. I took flier's advice and put some fuel tubing on the ignition signal wire. Gotta go by a small engine store and get something to cover the wire going to the spark plug or figure something out.

Ben your going to want to keep it from chafing on the edge of the cowl as well. I drilled a hole in the cowl for a rubber grommet to run the spark plug wire through. I streched the grommet over the plug boot. made a slit over to the hole and inserted the grommet. I dont have a picture of the finished install but this shoude give you an idea what i did. I put a small piece of lite ply, held in by 2 servo screws, on the inside where I cut over to the hole.

Well, I was going to test run the engine this morning, but ran into a little problem.

Well, just about all the snow from Saturday had melted and now it's back. Today's high was 29 and now it's dropped down to 7 with a windchill of -14. And my new wing panels came today, so guess what i'm working on.

I sealed the hinge gaps on the new wing panels tonight and installed the servos. After that, I cut out the pushrods. Carbon fiber rods with titanium ends. They're pretty sweet...

Hey Ben........Or anyone else that can give me an answer. I noticed that your slimeline muffler has a fitting on it. I know for glow engines it's for preassure but what about gas? Is it for smoke or should it be plugged or....or....or... what? Bill
PS: I know what you mean about the snow. We've been having some around Wisconsin too.

Well, that's actually a Bisson muffler. I want to say it's for smoke. I know my uncle bought a Bisson for his Fuji 50 and it had one of those two, but he didn't get the smoke one. I need to tell him to unhook the line to it though. You need a free line or someway to vent the tank. Otherwise, it will build up a vacuum in the tank preventing flow of fuel. I found that out tonight. We had trouble getting my engine to run and had to manually choke the engine just to get it to fire. Once we discovered my "plug" it ran fine. I'm going to put some foam around it tomorrow.