Most plane threads slow down a little between shipments. Typically shortly before of after a new delivery arrives the thread picks up speed again. There are always questions from those new to gas and their set ups that need answers and everyone is always here for them.

I have been reading all of this post since I am new to gassers. A couple of questions ...

1. It looks like we CAN use the new A123 batteries at 6.6 V for ignition power ... is that correct?

2. Have people been leaving the throttle return spring alone on the 3MM 53? It seems like a really strong return to be fighting all the time on the throttle servo. I know it is a safety issue with a probable return to idle if a linkage failure happens, but what about the battery drain all the time while flying?

Yes you can use A123 on ignition without a regulator.

The spring is a minor force, I doubt the current draw is more than a few dozen ma.

TF

The return spring also reduces wear imposed on the throttle shaft and butterfly caused by engine vibrations. Removing it permits the shaft to slide in and out of the opening fractionally. It leaves the butterfly as the sole means of retaining the throttle shaft in the correct position. That same movement can cause the butterfly to stick or wear down a tiny amount after a period of time. Makes idle settings real tough to hold.

I'm looking at putting Hitec 5945 servos on my Sukhoi. Good choice, over kill, is it a good servo? What size battery would be a good choice?

Good servos, will work fine. Slight overkill but excellent servos.

For battery I would use a single A123 2300mah pack into either two standard switches or a smart fly superswitch.

Call me at 817-430-0107 during business hours and I'll be happy to discuss the ins and outs.

TF

Tom,

Is there some other servo you'd recommend if the 5985's are a slight overkill?

Chuck

I'm going to use 5985s and a 5955TG on the rudder.
A little overkill is a good thing !

Jim

I actually like the 985s for $63 each. It's the same as the 5985 but not digital. These coreless metal gear servois were top of the line before they went digital.

Digital refers to the amplifier circuit that is driving the motor. A digital servo attempts to correct the servo's position somthing like several hundred times per second and applies full force immediately when it senses an out of position condition.

Digital servos are very quick to respond to pressure, when you try to move a surface that is being held by a digital servo the servo will immediately while and try to hold its exact position. Small stick movements are followed exactly even when a large load is resisting that movement.

With a non-digital servo everything is the same except that the immedioate force applied is not 100%. Until the servo has moved some distance, the first bit of resistance to motion is less than 100%. When you try to move a surface being held by an analog servo you will feel resistance, but if you push hard enough it will give way at first, the farther you push it the more resistance until the servo gets to its maximum output, at which point it is exactly the same as the digital.

So digitals are more sensitive around center, and have greater holding power at any given setting. But their power in actually moving the surface is the same.

In actual practice for me it's hard to tell the difference, except that a digital servo may require more expo to de-sensitize the plane around center. Other than that they feel pretty much the same. Non-digital servos have a bigadvantage in dual servo setups like an aileron. A slight difference in geometry between the two linkages can cause binding with a digital servo, with non-digitals it matters much less, they can tolerate a slight mis-alignment. I like to use 985s on ailerons on my 35% planes, it saves money since there are 4 and since I always run some expo anyway I can't tell the difference.

There is also the 5645, which is a decent servo except its centering is not really good. For sport flying it's fine and only $50.

TF

Hi Tom,
will you be shipping the DL with the third update (new standoffs and thicker mounting lugs) with your honda combo in Jan.?

Yes, if you prefer the DL I am happy to oblige. The ones I have are the latest version with the standoffs and new cases.

TF

I just installed the 3 inch rudder arm system. I also note that the 3-D spec is for 45 degrees of rudder throw ... and that is impossible with the parts supplied. The phenolic arm assembly is too long and hits the fuselage long before 45 degrees is reached. What have others been doing? A longer tiller certainly would work, but perhaps the lesser throw is acceptable for most.

I had the same problem.

Don't worry you will have more then enough rudder.

Jim

Did you shorten the control horns so the pivots align with the hinge line? This will increase clearance to the fuse and allow more through. Also screw them out as far as possible on the tiller.

TF

I bought a longer tiller arm (screw) at Ace Hardware.

Good gracious ... I have been doing R/C for 30 years and I didn't check the pivot alignment this time (probably because I have never used this type of arm system before)! Duh on me! Shortening them will probably allow the spec travel, and I was suspicious that I might never need that much. Thanks for all the quick responses.

Well here we go, Another bunny ready for the skies. Didn't have the time to post along the way so I decided to ad the building pics in the video. But I thought I'd post a few anyway.

Tried that new trim method using Press and Seal. Really easy to do and looks killer.
Try this link to see full shots.

[link]http://picasaweb.google.com/salley2k/WildhareSukhoi[/link]

Wow! Nice, clean, install!

Haven't heard of the press and seal method. Could you set up a link to it?

Andy

member Lomcevek1 found out about it and did a video on YouTube

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6686800/tm.htm

Man I like this new color scheme!! Bet it looks great in the air.

I had mine out playing with it today, still breaking the Brillelli 366GT in though. I'm just learning 3D, but this does a great Blinder, Flat spin, Inverted flat spin, Waterfall, and Elevator. The Elevator is rock soild with no wing rock, my Yak 54 rocks the wing 20*, the Sukhoi spins much better also, maybe video tomorrow. Flying in 28* is murder on the finger![:@]

I used neoprem vacuum tubing to hold the zip ties for the can works well, cost $3.47 for 7 feet, the silcone was $9 for a foot a the LHS.

Thanks! I'll check it out in the morning! Very long day![:'(]

Andy

Should have checked with me. I could have sold you the silicone and shipped it to you for less than $9.

I need a CF wing tube before I fly again[:@] I learned you have to slow way down before doing a Wall.

1 inch behind the D tube at the tips is too aft a CG, the plane is too pitch sensitive and you need lots of down on landing, but it really flat spins there well.