I used SWB Aluminumin the following sizes:

For Elevator & Aileron (4) four 1-1/4" Single arm

For Rudder (1) one 3" Double arm

Jim

For 3d you should use a 1"inch arm minimum on a 50cc size plane, but an inch and a quarter arm is prefered to clear the double beveled surface. For Imac and precision only type flying the blue aluminum arms that come with the hitec servos work great.

just an FYI the 5955tg's no longer come with aluminum arms. they come with a hard plastic arm now maybe karbonite or a glassed resin of some kind. I'm gonna try and swing by airwild later this week and pick up some arms from them or find somewhere to get the swb arms online

aaxiss,

Tom has Air Wilds servo arms.

or if you want SWB Arms try:

http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/servoarms.htm

http://donshobbyshop.com/

http://www.wildharerc.com/products/accessories/

http://www.chiefaircraft.com/rcmsec/...voArms/JR.html

Hope this helps,

Jim

Thanks , I live about 15 mins away from Air Wild and need to make a trip there to pick up some odd bits. I really shouldn't go there , I usually end up spending more than I plan . Always end up finding 2-3 Items I NEED , but didn't know it till I saw it on the wall . With Christmas upcoming my hobby budget is going to be pretty hard stressed I am going to make all my own extensions and I just picked up a 36v dewalt a123 battery pack today new off ebay for $42 . 10 cells - enough for 5 6.6v packs and my cellpro 4s will handle the A123 cells.


Anyone have an answer to my debatable servo question?, digital (JR821) servos on choke/throttle , I was told vibes from engine will kill em


Cheers

aaxiss,

I'm running the 821 digitals on my choke and throttle. They are both mounted right next to the ignition module. As this was my first gasser I asked a lot of questions and no one warned my of anything like you describe. However, I have only had 6 tanks on them.

I told my friend who has only done one gasser I was going to use just some cheap servos I had laying around. He then told me to use the digital servos for the choke and throttle because of their better performance and less chance of any noise because the analog servo in time put out more Rf noise.

I'm running spread spektrum, so the noise was less of a consideration then linear response of the servo.

Hope this helps,

Jim

The 821 on throttle is a good choice, it should hold up fine. For choke you can use any old servo, and in fact a well worn servo might be preferable.

The choke will snap into place at fully open or fully closed. If your servo just gets it pretty close that's really good enough, and less precision means the servo is less likely to be drawing current trying to stay in that exact position. A little bit of slop here is a good thing.

TF

Tom, can you tell me what material the landing gear is made from? I'm having some trouble with the gear bending, mostly due to my hard landings[&o] My Dad was loooking at it and said that T-6 should spring back to it's original shape and not remain bent, he's worked in the aircraft industry for many many years so he's familiar with aluminum and it's various tempers. Anyway, I'd considered getting some gear fabbed from T-6 if the original is indeed not already T-6. ANYONE reading this please note, this is in no way a reflection on this plane, only in my inability to figure out how to land it, i'm still working on the CG, setup, etc. And I'm not the most experienced pilot, but I am comfortable and experienced enough to fly this plane, just have to work on the landings. Just don't want anyone to get the wrong idea. Thanks!!!

It's supposed to be T6, but who really knows. It may be made of recycled beer cans for all I know. It's made in China and seems to hold up pretty well, that's about all I can say for sure. It's like the paint on toys, even though Mattel supplied the paint there was still an unknown involved.

TF

Hi Tom,
Just wondering if your mid Jan shipment of honda shceme is sold out already really looking foward to getting one. Also do you perfer the DL 50 over the 3mm 53 if so why. thanks

The next batch of Sukhois will be a large one, there should be plenty.

I actually sell both now, and I'd have to say that it's a toss up. The TOC is easier to set up, mount, hook up linkages, the muffler fits better in most planes. It is very reliable and easy to start and has an excellent track record now. The angled front face ofthe muffler allows it to fit into cowls with sloped front like Extra and Edge more easily.

The DL-50 is much newer to me, but is familiar since it's nearly identical to a DA-50. It's more of a juggling act to get it mounted, and a little harder to work with the rear mounted carb. But it seems to also be very reliable and makes a little more power than the TOC.

It depends on what is important to you. They are both good engines. Of course they are Chinese manufacture, the DA-50 is built and supported here, that's what you get for the extra $$$.

OBTW, I heard from DA that they will be able to provide stainless steel canister headers for the TOC-53. This is great news, I should have them in to sell when the new batch of Honda Sukhois come in January.

TF

Hello again Tom,
Now I,m wondering if you have a canister set up available for the DL50 and is it (the motor) the same price in the combo as the 3MM

I'm looking to buy a 3" double servo arm for Hitec servos to use on the rudder. Where can I get one, I've checked Tower and Horizon?

See post #479

Yes, same as for a DA-50. And yes the DL is the same price as the 3mm.

Guys my fuel nipple gets in the way of the throttle arm, is there any way to rotate the nipple in another direction, the black fuel in nipple.

Thanks Guys.

Richard

You can rotate it by grabbing the plastic body with a pliers and turn it. DO NOT use the inlet nipple as a lever, it will break off immediately. You must hold on to the body only with the pliers and rotate slowly.

TF

Thanks for the tip, will do...

Tom,
If I get the Dl50 with my Sukhette does it come with the same one year warrinty as the 3mm who will be doing the support.

Yes, and me with backup from the factory.

TF

Ran into a little snafu, might be something simple plz help....

I never got around to putting all the retaining screws in my engine cowl till today and come to find out with the top 3 screws in place, the bottom 2 that are by the canister tunnel do not line up. Upon further inspection they are both up and in about 1/8" on blind nut side ( cowl ) compared to the holes on the Fuse. Also you can see on the little lite-ply backing plate that was attached to the cowl when shipped that they had to elongate the holes to even put that on.

I went back in this thread to see if I could find any info and all mention of any cowl problems I could find were in relation to the older cowl with the 2 wooden tabs on the bottom.

any help would be appreciated

I had a misalignment of the bottom two as well. Its an easy fix. I redrilled all of the holes in the mounting tabs sightly larger to facilitate starting all the bolts before tightening any. If remember correctly the bit I used was about 1/16th oversize.. There us plenty of meat in the mounting tabs for this modification.

Thanks Tom,
I will be calling you soon with an order.

Yeah, I had the same problem with my cowling. As was previously mentioned, start all 5 screws before tightening any. It will slightly distort- very slightly distort, the cowl but it will tighten up. The hatch will also be a little tight going in.

well I should have tried the drilling out the holes a bit more before snugging up the screws. evidently the Inner ring on my cowl was a tad underglued and as soon as I snugged up the last screw I hear a lil pop and the cowl falls onto the workbench. I swear I read ARF somewhere when I bought this plane.... anyway I think I have some fiberglass mix somewhere and some really light cloth. Im going to make a new ring and line it up correctly. Don't get me wrong I enjoy tinkering and modifications but I usually get to fly the plane a bit before having to make such major modifications to an ARF plane. anyway back to the drawing board [:@]


Woo post #500 in this thread