50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
#801
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From: western,
WA
Another prop question.
the prop I'm working on seems to have a center hole that is non perpendicular with the plane of the prop . When view from the side the tips don't cross the same plane with a difference of nearly 1/2 inch I think this is contributing to the off balance symptoms mentioned earlier. Can I overbore the center hole to over 10mm and use the 6 bolt hub to secure the prop? I think I can balance the prop with the prop washer and balancer cones from the Dubro balancer.
Long story short , does the center hole have to be 10 mm to fit the TOC 53 center shaft if the hub is bolted up properly?
Or should I get another prop and get it over with.
Obee.
the prop I'm working on seems to have a center hole that is non perpendicular with the plane of the prop . When view from the side the tips don't cross the same plane with a difference of nearly 1/2 inch I think this is contributing to the off balance symptoms mentioned earlier. Can I overbore the center hole to over 10mm and use the 6 bolt hub to secure the prop? I think I can balance the prop with the prop washer and balancer cones from the Dubro balancer.
Long story short , does the center hole have to be 10 mm to fit the TOC 53 center shaft if the hub is bolted up properly?
Or should I get another prop and get it over with.
Obee.
#802
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From: Flower Mound (near Dallas),
TX
You really ought to throw that thing in the trash and start over. If you bought it from me let me know and I'll send another.
If you bought it elsewhere they should do the same.
TF
If you bought it elsewhere they should do the same.
TF
#804
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My Feedback: (1)
General prop alignment guide;
With a plane level and the plug pulled from the engine, place an object as close to a propeller tip as possible when the prop is vertical. Measure the distance between the prop tip and the object. Swing the prop to where the other blade is now positioned next to the object and measure again. If there's a significant difference, change props.
Sometimes the hub is not flat and can be sanded to correct but it's a lot of work to get right. Better to change props. Poor blade alignment contributes greatly to vibration and can cause a blade to be thrown in flight.
With a plane level and the plug pulled from the engine, place an object as close to a propeller tip as possible when the prop is vertical. Measure the distance between the prop tip and the object. Swing the prop to where the other blade is now positioned next to the object and measure again. If there's a significant difference, change props.
Sometimes the hub is not flat and can be sanded to correct but it's a lot of work to get right. Better to change props. Poor blade alignment contributes greatly to vibration and can cause a blade to be thrown in flight.
#805
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From: western,
WA
Gentlemen,
Thank you for the responses. I have a habit of trying to repair / make it work. In this case I don't need a questionable prop leading my lovely plane into a disaster.
I'll call Tom.
Obee.
Thank you for the responses. I have a habit of trying to repair / make it work. In this case I don't need a questionable prop leading my lovely plane into a disaster.
I'll call Tom.
Obee.
#806
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From: Katherine, AUSTRALIA
Howdy all again
Has anybody got any niffty ideas for measureing the control throws, or could somebody help me with a good start off set up measured in mm's, I have one of those GreatPlanes Accu throw things.
Are there any small settings that would help me set this up better???. Iam taking my plane to Darwin next weekend to have it inspected so I would like to have it set up first.
Lee
Has anybody got any niffty ideas for measureing the control throws, or could somebody help me with a good start off set up measured in mm's, I have one of those GreatPlanes Accu throw things.
Are there any small settings that would help me set this up better???. Iam taking my plane to Darwin next weekend to have it inspected so I would like to have it set up first.
Lee
#807
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From: Dubuque, IA
I got a Wixey digital angle gage that is found in woodworking supply places. It is intended for accurately set blade angles on a saw, but I found that it worked really slick to measure deflection angles. It can be zeroed in any position and is accurate to 0.1 degree. See the attached photo.
#808
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From: Katherine, AUSTRALIA
Thanks for that Bari1
Rang my local supplier and had to spell digital angle to him.[:-] But then me thinks that Hangar9 make one. This will not help in the for the near future unfortunatley. but I will chase one up mate
Lee
Rang my local supplier and had to spell digital angle to him.[:-] But then me thinks that Hangar9 make one. This will not help in the for the near future unfortunatley. but I will chase one up mate
Lee
#809
I have a new baby my freind picked her up yesterday going with the TOC 3MM motor cannot wait to get her up and throw her around can't let everyone else have all the fun!!
#811
Hmmmm sure looks that way my friend has it at his house as I live in Conroe and he is in Dallas so he must have put it there. Question then when you move from one to the other does the move cover the other hole !!!!
I have not seen it in person yet and I am chomping at the bit to get to his house and see her.
I have not seen it in person yet and I am chomping at the bit to get to his house and see her.

#813
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From: west babylon, NY
Yeh Sal 98 is right [8D] Once the stab is in the forward position and you move it to the rear position the holes from the forward position are exposed.
#814
This is true for only the locating pin and screws, but not for the stab tube hole... I had mine in the forward position first and moved it aft - I really had to look to find the covering I put over the original holes... I prefer the rearward position over the forward....
Jason
Jason
#815
Actually when I got it home and unboxed it the forward holes (including the anti-rotational pin) were already open. As a matter of fact I didnt even realize it had an alternative option till Roboto65 (plane owner) called squealing hehehehe.
Moved to the rearward holes and you can ONLY see the forward anti-rotational pin holes, when in the rearward position.
NOT a problem though, will find something to put over it and fly it in the rear position then switch to the forward on when he is ready.
Moved to the rearward holes and you can ONLY see the forward anti-rotational pin holes, when in the rearward position.
NOT a problem though, will find something to put over it and fly it in the rear position then switch to the forward on when he is ready.
#816
Greg mentioned last night when he installed the cowl and canopy that where the canopy slides under the cowl is a TIGHT fit I was wondering if any one else or Tom has run into this and what they did to loosen it up the canopy won't come flying off for sure LOL. One thing the landing gear went on nice have some nice Titanium axles coming for her.
#817
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From: Flower Mound (near Dallas),
TX
It depends on how tight is tight. If it's just a little tight sometimes I run a Dremel sanding drum (GENTLY!) around the inner edge to take off burrs and high spots in the fiberglass. Often this will be enough to give some clearance.
TF
TF
#818
Thanks Tom we discussed that last night. I konw it should be snug and from the pictures you can see it has been evolving very well. Cannot wait till she is done. Thanks again for the great bird TOM!!!!
#819
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From: St. Rose ,
LA
Hello guys,
I been folowing this forum about the Sukhoi and I Just buy one from Mr. Tom what a nice piece of work. This is my first gas airplane and i try to follow every thing that you guys put in to this. my engine it will be a TOC 53 from Wild Hare to and I just waiting on it. any way I bought the 3/4 dowel and i cut several pices like you guys sugest and I wil try to see which one is better for the plane. Now this is my first time doing this so I need help. After you cut this pices of dowel how you make the standoff what size of hole I make on it and the I have make a hole to whole standoff or just a part on the front or a part on the back please let me know all you answers will be apreciated
Thanks
I been folowing this forum about the Sukhoi and I Just buy one from Mr. Tom what a nice piece of work. This is my first gas airplane and i try to follow every thing that you guys put in to this. my engine it will be a TOC 53 from Wild Hare to and I just waiting on it. any way I bought the 3/4 dowel and i cut several pices like you guys sugest and I wil try to see which one is better for the plane. Now this is my first time doing this so I need help. After you cut this pices of dowel how you make the standoff what size of hole I make on it and the I have make a hole to whole standoff or just a part on the front or a part on the back please let me know all you answers will be apreciated
Thanks
#820
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From: Dubuque, IA
I have an engine throttle setup question since this is my first gasser. I have been running my first gallon of gas thru my TOC 53 to break it in and find the throttle to be very non-linear. One fourth throttle position on the tx is easily 1/2 the max rpm on the engine. Max rpm using the 22x8 bunny prop is a bit over 6800 rpm. Not knowing what the normal throttle response is for gassers, the basic question is whether or not people normally use the throttle curve capabilities on the tx to make the throttle response more linear. I do have the servo travel extremes set to be about equal angles each side of center. Thanks
#821
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From: Flower Mound (near Dallas),
TX
ORIGINAL: Brunito
Hello guys,
I been folowing this forum about the Sukhoi and I Just buy one from Mr. Tom what a nice piece of work. This is my first gas airplane and i try to follow every thing that you guys put in to this. my engine it will be a TOC 53 from Wild Hare to and I just waiting on it. any way I bought the 3/4 dowel and i cut several pices like you guys sugest and I wil try to see which one is better for the plane. Now this is my first time doing this so I need help. After you cut this pices of dowel how you make the standoff what size of hole I make on it and the I have make a hole to whole standoff or just a part on the front or a part on the back please let me know all you answers will be apreciated
Thanks
Hello guys,
I been folowing this forum about the Sukhoi and I Just buy one from Mr. Tom what a nice piece of work. This is my first gas airplane and i try to follow every thing that you guys put in to this. my engine it will be a TOC 53 from Wild Hare to and I just waiting on it. any way I bought the 3/4 dowel and i cut several pices like you guys sugest and I wil try to see which one is better for the plane. Now this is my first time doing this so I need help. After you cut this pices of dowel how you make the standoff what size of hole I make on it and the I have make a hole to whole standoff or just a part on the front or a part on the back please let me know all you answers will be apreciated
Thanks
TF
#822
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Regarding the throttle linearity. You are correct, they are not linear. 50% of the throttle lever movemnet can end up providing 1005 of the power in many cases. Very little change in rpm takes place after the carb butterfly opens past the 65-70% point.
If you set up the travel adjust for the throttle servo at 100% you have a starting point. Next is to install the throttle linkage on the servo arm at the innermost hole. Install the linkage on the carb's throttle lever at the outer most hole. See where that leaves you and play with transmitter throttle curves if you feel the need for more linearity. Some people use exponential on throttle to achieve a similar "feel".
As for degree measurements, obtaining a couple of plastic protractors at a stationary, art, or school supply store is a simple and cheap way to obtain a workable tool. There are many types of angle finding tools that can be purchase for $10.00 or less at any home improvement supply store. That's cheapr than any of the "specialty" items obtained from hobby supply stores.
If you set up the travel adjust for the throttle servo at 100% you have a starting point. Next is to install the throttle linkage on the servo arm at the innermost hole. Install the linkage on the carb's throttle lever at the outer most hole. See where that leaves you and play with transmitter throttle curves if you feel the need for more linearity. Some people use exponential on throttle to achieve a similar "feel".
As for degree measurements, obtaining a couple of plastic protractors at a stationary, art, or school supply store is a simple and cheap way to obtain a workable tool. There are many types of angle finding tools that can be purchase for $10.00 or less at any home improvement supply store. That's cheapr than any of the "specialty" items obtained from hobby supply stores.
#823
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From: Katherine, AUSTRALIA
Pat Roy
Thanks for your input, I basically did this with the protractors, I made a couple of pieces of thin ply cut to specific angles and moved the control surface up and down till I got them to match the cut angle,
This seems to be successful, Iam going to the big smoke of Darwin on the weekend and will try and find a Digital set up there.
Hey I used a 25mm hole saw to cut out my stand off extensions, cuts both things at once.
Lee
Thanks for your input, I basically did this with the protractors, I made a couple of pieces of thin ply cut to specific angles and moved the control surface up and down till I got them to match the cut angle,
This seems to be successful, Iam going to the big smoke of Darwin on the weekend and will try and find a Digital set up there.
Hey I used a 25mm hole saw to cut out my stand off extensions, cuts both things at once.
Lee
#824
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Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Interesting you came up with that method. In the "old days" aircraft plans had a couple of angles printed on them and you made up an angled piece of plywood to obtain the desired surface deflections after building the plane. What you did is exactly the same and works perfectly. Good job!




