Well she slows down very good so I would say Y the ailerons but you could Y the throttle servo and battery or switched power to be exact !!!

I was thinking of just Y'ing the elevators and separate channels for everything else. Whatdaya think? (using a 9303)

unless you have a way to synchronize the servos via either a matchbox or a Hitec Programmer I would shy away from using a Y on the control surfaces when you can Y in the 1 battery on any of the channels ( Y on the choke would be my preference on the gear channel ) but it's up to you . I was going to put in a choke servo but found it much easier to use an optical kill and use a piece of .048 piano wire to the choke lever with a hex lock type stopper like those used on RC cars for the throttle linkage at the very end just poking through a small hole in my baffle , works like a charm. I cant see the point in having a choke servo when you are right at the front of the engine anyway to start it . I am running a DL 50 so with the rear mounted carb the wire is almost a straight shot to the front of the cowl, side carb might be a tad harder to rig.

On a side note I got to the field today and the weather was absolutely great.... had my cowl off because I wanted one of the veteran flyers to tune my engine for me and set it properly and I forgot the cowl ! argggg , anyway got it all nice and tuned and got quite a few complements on it but had to sit there and look at it and feel absolutely disgusted with myself for 3 hours or so and be contented to fly my mini funtana electric a few times.

Question for Tom, are replacement cowls avail for the sukohi's and if so do you have a yellow one in stock and how much?. Don't know if you remember my story about my cowl ring popping off the first time I tightened down all the bolts, well I thought I had it fixed properly but it's misaligned a bit and it's extremely hard for me to get the canopy on ( It is so tight that it's started to tear the monokote on the front edge of the canopy ) so I would like to replace it with something a little user friendly to fellow flyers that are helping me on the flight line... remember I am in a wheelchair and I do require a little extra help once the wings are on and cant lift the plan across my lap ran into that Problem last week when I maidened the plane. was thinking about it today when I went to the van to look for my cowl only to remember that I had left it on the kitchen floor with my gas jug LOL

Why not skip the choke servo? The cowl is roomy enough that you can reach in and work the choke by hand..

This is what I did on Roboto65's Sukhoi and also my WH prototype Yak (predecessor to the Sukhoi), another nice feature of the round cowl birds.

I have cowls in stock.

The choke servo also doubles as an emergency kill switch in the event that the throttle servo/linkage were to fail.

Put a Y on the rudder servo with your second battery connection going in through one leg of the Y, this way power for the rudder servo can bypass the receiver giving (theoretically at least) better servo performance.

TF

I personally use Smart-Fly Fiber Optic kill switch for that function.

Hi guys. To change the subject, I finally maidened mine this weekend! Been working on piecing it together since Xmas. It's now flying. Wow what a rush! Only needed 2 cliks of right aileron trim and it flew terrific. Hat's off to Tom and everyone else in this forum. Without all of you, I don't think this could have happened. This is my first gasser and with the info posted here, everything came together great. I got 3 flights on Saturday, basically just flying around, working off the nerves and getting a feel for her. Next flights will be for trim evaluation. For anyone who has been reading this forum trying to decide whether or not to purchase, GO FOR IT! You won't be dissapointed.

Thanks

I like the pilots resemblence of the builder !

Jim

oh, in case anyone is interested, the setup is as follows:
DL50 engine w/stock muffler, WH 22x10 prop
Hitec 5955TG's on all control surfaces
Hitec 425's on throttle and choke
Fromeco Kodiak switch and A123 2300mah battery on receiver
Fromeco Badger switch and A123 2300mah on ignition
Spektrum DX7 and AR7000 receiver.
CG right now is on the front half of the wing tube.

I forget right now where I got the pilot, it's the real light foam ones. I'll look this up tonight.

Good on ya Darkwarder, great fun hey, nice job too
Lee

Wow, money's no problem here! I thought I was blown the wad putting one on the rudder.

well, I had nothing when I started this project. It's really taken about 6 months to put it all together. Saving here and there. Since I had to buy everything, I wanted to save up and put the best I could in it. That way if I later decided to up to the 30-35% birds, I wouldn't have to reinvest. So far very happy with it!. A couple of more months and the wife will probably start talking to me again. Ha!

Yes....I too, would like to know more about your "pilot".
Thanks,
Earle

I got the pilot from Aircraft International. WWW.aircraftinternational.com. I used the "B" size. Could probably have gone to the "C" size. Very light. I didn't weigh it, but they say even their largest is only 1.1 oz.

Yay....

Finally got in a whole day of flying, quite hot but had a blast. one thing I noticed on my plane is that I had quite a bit of right aileron trim needed to fly the plane level. I checked the weight of each wing and only 1 gram off. could it be an incidence problem?. I'm mainly just a sport flyer and right now I am just gonna burn fuel to get the motor broken in so I can get it to the correct tune and fly it a bit better. Overall though great day and plane flies great, balance is just about spot on as the plane flies level and just requires the slightest amount of down stick inverted. holds uplines without any input and downlines are the same. Just looking at the ailerons with that much trim in them kinda annoys me hehe.. the amount of aileron trim showing is about the thickness of the trailing edge or a tad more, right one is up and left one is down by that amount.

That's about the same thing with mine. Almost identical to the amount of right aileron trim needed. I didn't have to trim anything else. I'm curious to see what everyone's opinion will be on this.

Also, I have a question as well. I have the DL50. So far, due to weather, I only have about 3 flights on it and maybe 2 full tanks of fuel through it. The first time I started it, I had an awful time. It took forever! Did the normal flip the prop with choke closed until it popped, choke off, flip and it should start. Well it didn't. About an hour later I finally got it started by borrowing a big starter another fellow happened to have. It seems it had a lot of trouble pulling the fuel into the carb?? Once I got it running, everything was fine, restarts were even easy. The next time at the field, I topped off the tank. I didn't remove the fuel from the first running, just plugged the lines. This time, the normal procedure and it fired right off, everything was good. As rain was forecast knowing it would be a few days, at the end of the day, I removed the fuel from the tank. Went out the other day, fueled it up and I cannot get the thing to start for anything. It pops and acts like it really wants to start, but nothing. Had the issue again with fuel not coming to the carb. Head scratching, I replaced all of my fuel lines, thinking maybe it was sucking air. Got it back together, no change. It did a lot of popping, but never fired up. I pulled the spark plug, seems to be getting good spark. No carb adjustments since last time running. I gave up and went home. Any ideas?

Darkwarder,

I have the Sukhoi also with the DL50. I also had the same problem when new. I found that I needed to richin the low end needle and give it high idle trim and the DL should take right off. it will get easier after more breakin.

Jim

Thanks Rich. I'll give that a try!

Mine needed aileron trim also, I thought it was just mine. With the wings going into pockets I just trimmed it to fly straight, I'm just a fly flier.

The DL is a fine engine, but any engine that uses reeds may suffer from that problem if the reeds don't seal well. Pull the engine and remove the carb, then the reed cage. The reeds are very thin fiberglass, (G-10), sometimes they are not perfectly flat and air leaks past them. You can tell if the reed is sealing, it looks different where it's touching the sealing surface of the reed cage, sometimes a light spray of WD-40 will help you see the seal. If it's not sealing remove the reed and flip it over, that usually fixes the problem. You might have the same problem, but in the carb. The carb has two little reeds in it that are in effect one way valves, that's how it pumps the fuel, they may not be sealing because of dirt or something, if it's not dirt I think you just get a rebuilt kit. From my playing with these engines I think it will be a non sealing reed valve in the engine though.

Try n57tc fix first though, that would be an easy fix.[sm=thumbup.gif]

Anyone have problems with the wing bolts vibrating out? I've lost the right side bolt twice now, last time i put a rubber washer under it and tightened it down pretty tight but it still came out. Any ideas on a method to secure them?

No, you must have a lot of vibration !
Is that prop balanced properly ?

Jim

If it were more than one bolt I might agree with a balance issue, but it's just the right side wing bolt. It fit's quite loose in the threads and I think that maybe part of the problem. I'd thought about converting the two front mounts to clips like the rear has, anyone ever done one like that?

Both my DL50's need priming to start by closing the choke, full throttle, and manually rotate the prop about 20 revolutions. Turn on the ignition, flip the prop, if it doesn't pop in 2-3 flips, rotate another 10 times. Keep doing this until you get the pop. Then choke off, reduce throttle to slightly above idle, and in 4-6 flips it should be running. There is a small hole in the choke plate, close it off with silcone. When you are flipping the prop to start it, slowly bring the prop up to where the compression starts, then back off 90-120 degrees and flip the prop.

My ailerons on both even with the wing surfaces.

I've got a DL 50 as well, no problems starting it , as stated in earlier posts just make sure the carb is primed . I put choke on full throttle with ignition off 5 pulls on the prop. ignition on throttle to half usually get pop in 2-3 then choke off throttle to low and trim lever to full ( high Idle setting ) usually starts right up in 2-3 more pulls on the prop.

My engine is still quite rich on the top end as it sputters and misses but I only have like 5 full tanks total through it, gonna tach it next week and bring it up to about 6500 and just take it easy at that needle setting for another 2 gallons then start working toward max rpm .

sperrier I would advise against converting the front wing bolt to a dowel and pin configuration, seems to me that if it was a good idea someone would have done it by now, besides and easier way to keep said screw in place would be to just drill a small hole in the head and use a clip on the end of a piece of fishing leader or some left over pull-pull attached with not much play as to keep the bolt from rotating. 5 min fix

I forgot to get the pictures from my friend today, I would have him email them to me but he has his camera set to RAW mode and the pictures are too big to email and I don't feel like teaching him how to resize and attach all the pictures anyway. nothing spectacular anyway just some stills of my plane putting by. I did quite a few low pass fly-bye's about 4 ft off the runway as I had the sky to myself a couple of times and was doing touch and goes also hehe

Glad to see you're havin a good time with the Sukhoi Don !
I am 12 days POST surgery for a rotator cuff repair, but I think, with some help, I can get mine out to fly a little this weekend !

Jim