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How well did your YS run after sending it in for service?
10-08-2007, 02:32 PM
#26
Senior Member
RE: How well did your YS run after sending it in for service?
If the piston/cylinder or ring is scored, the engine will have excessive blow by. This blow by puts already hot, partially burnt charge down below the piston, and down where the next charge is being prepared by the super charger system.
This blow by is mostly oil, since oil doesn't burn as well as nitro and methanol, the next charge is super rich in excess oil that is already hot. The next time charge enters the top and does its thing. Now the some of the excess oil flashes off making the excess smoke, from too much oil in the fuel...and you get an very incomplete burn due to the leaking past the piston and ring, and the in combination with the excess oil it doesn't want to burn as well.
If the regulator was not stopping the fuel because the plunger was not seating the the excess fuel would make the engine rich. Very rich, but it would not change the amount of oil that is getting burnt. It would pump excess nitro-methanol, and oil in the same ratio tot he engine....So the engine would tend to smoke a bunch at idle or mid throttle as the engine is trying to burn too much fuel. But at the High end you could likely needle it down far enough to get the mixture correct for full throttle.
On the blow by side of things...the engine will act like its rich because its not burning correctly due to the leakage past the piston, and its also combined with the excess oil from the last charge that doesn't burn well. So the needle gets set leaner to clean up the "sounds rich condition" but in reality you are just restricting the amount of nitro and methanol even more. Now add in that oil from the blow by and charge is now even higher in oil content and it makes things worse and worse....
If you regulator sticks open then the excess fuel will flood out the glow plug. Leaning the high speed can help at full power. When the piston-ring is leaking the excess heat will not put the glow plug out but there becomes lots of oil to lube the engine but not enough fuel, so the engine starts to burn the oil, and gets hotter and hotter trying to keep up.
Troy Newman
Team YS
This blow by is mostly oil, since oil doesn't burn as well as nitro and methanol, the next charge is super rich in excess oil that is already hot. The next time charge enters the top and does its thing. Now the some of the excess oil flashes off making the excess smoke, from too much oil in the fuel...and you get an very incomplete burn due to the leaking past the piston and ring, and the in combination with the excess oil it doesn't want to burn as well.
If the regulator was not stopping the fuel because the plunger was not seating the the excess fuel would make the engine rich. Very rich, but it would not change the amount of oil that is getting burnt. It would pump excess nitro-methanol, and oil in the same ratio tot he engine....So the engine would tend to smoke a bunch at idle or mid throttle as the engine is trying to burn too much fuel. But at the High end you could likely needle it down far enough to get the mixture correct for full throttle.
On the blow by side of things...the engine will act like its rich because its not burning correctly due to the leakage past the piston, and its also combined with the excess oil from the last charge that doesn't burn well. So the needle gets set leaner to clean up the "sounds rich condition" but in reality you are just restricting the amount of nitro and methanol even more. Now add in that oil from the blow by and charge is now even higher in oil content and it makes things worse and worse....
If you regulator sticks open then the excess fuel will flood out the glow plug. Leaning the high speed can help at full power. When the piston-ring is leaking the excess heat will not put the glow plug out but there becomes lots of oil to lube the engine but not enough fuel, so the engine starts to burn the oil, and gets hotter and hotter trying to keep up.
Troy Newman
Team YS
10-08-2007, 05:21 PM
#27
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RE: How well did your YS run after sending it in for service?
hey troy I have A 140 fz that has been giving me troubles. Its had just under 2 gal. of fuel through it and I just had to replace the head gasket.This went well...but now when I run it at lo rpm fuel drips out of the carb. Its mounted inverted. Anyway I have flown it A couple times thinking it might fix itself but no.It runs weak and smokes A lot at low throttle,then when it dies fuel poors out the carb... Any good advise for me. OR should I send it in. thanks Patrick Liebo Gatlinburg TN
10-08-2007, 05:34 PM
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RE: How well did your YS run after sending it in for service?
Hey Troy. Thanks for the info. I do fly at a sod farm, sometimes on grass and also on the fresh cut dirt. I do not have any air cleaner on the carb so I would bet that you are right about scored liner on piston. The power has been getting progressivly worse. Is this a job better left for ys service?Ps I did take apart the regulator and did not find anything that looks out of the norm. Im sure that I can find someone at the field with a compression testor, what kind of reading should I get with the ys 63s?
10-08-2007, 08:22 PM
#29
Senior Member
RE: How well did your YS run after sending it in for service?
Let's move these discussions to a new thread.
Patrick, On your 140FZ, the regulator is not closing...the question is why is it not closing...Could be dirt or debris in it. It could be that the regulator is just too rich, and that is why its not closing. Another option is when you replaced the head gasket you pinched the o-rings on the intake tube or the pushrod tube o-rings are not seated properly or are cut from a misalignment. Any of these things could result in your problem. An air leak in the system could screw up the pressure differentials and cause the regulator to not be closing. Especially when the engine shuts down.
But lets take it to new thread, makes it easier to handle the responses and it doesn't have anything to do with the topic above.
Skid,
the both versions of the 63 have a special head/liner combo. The sleeve is part of the entire head assembly. So it can be a bit expensive to buy a new sleeve and lots of work as the the valves, and all need to be transfered over. The piston ring is an easy one....even a piston or the rod is easy but the sleeve or cylinder gets expensive its almost half the price of a new engine. So I would let YS Parts and Service do this work for you. I don't think it means your engine is scrap and buy a new one...but it could be a more pricey thing. As for the sod farm and the dirt field. The dirt is the problem one....even with an air filter. This will eat the heck out of a piston and sleeve.
If the sleeve is not scratched too bad....then a new ring can likely bring it back....I would send it in just to make sure its gone through well. Another issue with the dirt field is the bearings....they are likely in need of changing. If you run on a dirty field like you are doing the money for bearing will keep your motor alive believe me....If you have a bearing come apart it will shell out an engine and then it will be just a paper weight.... Again lets take this conversation to a new thread as well.
Patrick, On your 140FZ, the regulator is not closing...the question is why is it not closing...Could be dirt or debris in it. It could be that the regulator is just too rich, and that is why its not closing. Another option is when you replaced the head gasket you pinched the o-rings on the intake tube or the pushrod tube o-rings are not seated properly or are cut from a misalignment. Any of these things could result in your problem. An air leak in the system could screw up the pressure differentials and cause the regulator to not be closing. Especially when the engine shuts down.
But lets take it to new thread, makes it easier to handle the responses and it doesn't have anything to do with the topic above.
Skid,
the both versions of the 63 have a special head/liner combo. The sleeve is part of the entire head assembly. So it can be a bit expensive to buy a new sleeve and lots of work as the the valves, and all need to be transfered over. The piston ring is an easy one....even a piston or the rod is easy but the sleeve or cylinder gets expensive its almost half the price of a new engine. So I would let YS Parts and Service do this work for you. I don't think it means your engine is scrap and buy a new one...but it could be a more pricey thing. As for the sod farm and the dirt field. The dirt is the problem one....even with an air filter. This will eat the heck out of a piston and sleeve.
If the sleeve is not scratched too bad....then a new ring can likely bring it back....I would send it in just to make sure its gone through well. Another issue with the dirt field is the bearings....they are likely in need of changing. If you run on a dirty field like you are doing the money for bearing will keep your motor alive believe me....If you have a bearing come apart it will shell out an engine and then it will be just a paper weight.... Again lets take this conversation to a new thread as well.
10-09-2007, 01:25 PM
#30
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RE: How well did your YS run after sending it in for service?
Guys:
I think it's time to let this thread die.
Since I first started it I've learned a lot about YS engines, Troy and YS Performance.
The main things I've learned are:
1. YS engines are sophisticated and I would not recommend them for beginners unless you have someone very familiar with them to help teach you.
2. They are fantastic engines and I will not hesitate to purchase more of them (I have 4)
3. The real reason I started this thread was service concerns, not the engine. I have since come to have complete faith in Troy and Performance. I'm firmly convinced that most if not all problems after service have been novice users.
So,,,,Please just let this thread die, it no longer serves any purpose.
I think it's time to let this thread die.
Since I first started it I've learned a lot about YS engines, Troy and YS Performance.
The main things I've learned are:
1. YS engines are sophisticated and I would not recommend them for beginners unless you have someone very familiar with them to help teach you.
2. They are fantastic engines and I will not hesitate to purchase more of them (I have 4)
3. The real reason I started this thread was service concerns, not the engine. I have since come to have complete faith in Troy and Performance. I'm firmly convinced that most if not all problems after service have been novice users.
So,,,,Please just let this thread die, it no longer serves any purpose.
10-12-2007, 12:03 AM
#31
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RE: How well did your YS run after sending it in for service?
Hi guys I sent a ys 63 in for repair. I had fuel problem than crashed the plane. The engine was repaired including a new crank. The engine ran so so. So I emailed Dave he recommend heli 30% fuel and I have never looked back. I love the engine. 
