jmupilot

Has anyone seen or flown one of these yet? Saw them advertised for sale on EBay for the first time this week. I'm looking really hard at the Long EZ or the Quickie. I like diferent looking aircraft. Price seems about right at $199 retail, we all know looks can be deceiving.

Here's the link to thier website http://www.avia-richmodel.com/englis...iew.asp?ID=173

Pete

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

I have seen the kits in person. VERY nice workmanship. I am currently building a Lancair and Long EZ. Nothing about it seems like there should be any issues with flying.

Arch Stafford

jmupilot

Thanks Arch, I just purchased the Long EZ myself, should be here in a few days. The ARF's coming out of the far east are getting better. One cant hardly build a kit for the price of a ARF anymore. Does it look like a retract can be put in the nose? THe fullscale Long EZ has retractable nose gear. I kinda want to put a Saito 80 in the plane. I have an OS 46AX I can use, but like the 4-stroke motors sound. Maybe keep this thread going so we can compare notes.


Pete

jmupilot

WOW just opened my LongEZ, I'm impressed with the quality. The parts fit nicely wing is a bolt-on with a wing tube and nylon screws to hold it to the fuse. Canopy and cowlings are of super quality. I was hoping to be able to put a retract in the nose, and to my suprise it looks like that option was already thought of. will be simple to mount a belly nose gear retract. Lots of items are included, the hardware package is of better quality than I have seen in ARF's from the far east in the past. Some covering is a little wrinkled but hey its a ARF not a precision scale job. a little heat gun will take out those. Lots of room in the fuse for all the radio gear. Even the aluminum gear is painted to match the rest of the model. I'll post pics as i go.

I have to remember down elevator is up airplane now. It's a canard dummy!!!!!!!!

Pete

SIREX

I just got mine today also. Your right the quality is outstanding. I just wish the directions were a little more clear. If you want we can post any issues we have building them and maybe help each other out. Good luck with yours. By the way I had an unfortunate accident with my funtana so the OS 70 surpass four stroke is going in the long ez.

First post here so hello to everyone.

Shayne

Primodus

My Feedback: (56)

Is it just me, or is thier website very slow to load?

jmupilot

Its really slow, I thought something had gone wrong with my PC but it sems to be them. Takes loooong time to downlaod picture and item descriptions.


Pete

jmupilot

Shayne, hows the Long EZ coming? Mine is just about ready to fly. I have everything in place, and I did install a nose gear retract. I studied up on the real LongEZ on a few web sites. Hoped it would give me something to help understand the plane more. The only thing that stood out was an article on the stance of the aircraft at takeoff weight. I have noticed that when balanced at the point shown there is a lot of weight on the nose gear. I suspect it takes some airspeed to get the canard to lift. The article I read on the full size LongEZ said it should sit slightly nose high or it may result in an exsesively long TO roll. I'll try and get some pictures posted of the retract intallation . It realy was quite simple and I used a mechanical nose gear and standard servo to retract it. I just had to cut out some belly material to clear the strut and wheel. Heck it needs nose weight anyway may as well be functional. I have an OS FX46 in it and futaba super 8 radio. I bought a Pitts style muffler that fits the Magnum 46, but it also fits the OS perfectly. Its small and the can rotates so the exhaust outlets can be pointed to the rear. Most Pitts mufflers angle the exhaust to the rear of a nose mounted engine and that points them forward on a rear mounted one.

Keep this thread going so we can exchange ideas. One i have is to replace the rear steel wing rod with a carbonfibre one to reduce a little tail weight.


Pete

jmupilot

OK, a question on the CG, the booklet doesn't mention wether the balance is with full or empty tank. I am guessing an empty one, as that is how other kits manufactures balance . But with full tank in the rear of the plane it does make a difference.

the picture book that came with kit leave's a lot to your imagination. maybe a few other questions are floating around about this kit.

still a pretty nice ARF though.

Pete

BIG AIR

Just purchased the CAP 232. I'm going to install a Permax 480/4 w/3.3:1 gear box, 10X7 prop. Has anyone set up this plane or any suggestions? Instructions are the worst I've ever seen and thier web site loads super sloooooo.

jrf

My Feedback: (551)

A friend had their little CAP. It would tip-stall at the drop of a hat. He snapped it 3 times trying to recover from a spin.

Jim

BIG AIR

Thanks for the heads up. Not very encouraging considering I'm about to put $300+ in electronics.

Martin

jrf

My Feedback: (551)

Well, hopefully you can use the electronics again in your next electric.

Jim

jmupilot

Got my first flights in this afternoon with the LongEZ. Flew great needed to tweak the elevator throw a bit as its quite sensitive in pitch.
aileron was very axial and good roll rate. Biggest problem was keeping up with flight orientation. After 30 yrs of wing first aircraft it's a bit tough to fly a swept wing canard. Balance point is exactly where shown in the directions at 430 mm behind the leading edge of the canard. I balanced it with empty tankand after filling the tank rechecked it and it didn't change but a 1/4 in(5mm). Only problem I had was the engine seemed to overheat a bit so may fly next few flights without the engine cowl in place to try and not over heat a new engine. I have a OS46 on it and it is really lots of power. Take off roll was a little long but after it gains lift on the canard it just fly's right off very nicely. Mine did require a good amount of nose up trim for level flight but I'll adjust for that in the linkage and it should be a great little flier.

Pete

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

All of their aircraft that are in the US now, the LongEZ, Quickie, electric and .40 size, HellCat (beautiful airplane), Electric Extra330, LancAir (another beautiful airplane) are all available now through Fulton's Hobby shop in Wheeling, WV 304-233-5355. or at www.fultonshobbies.com The website will be updated very soon. Also, I'm currently working on rewriting some of the instruction manuals,


Thanks,

Arch Stafford

julio cavazos

I just receive mi Long ez ARF from richmodels, The kit look fine and the instructions are a shame. I start te building today, But I was i have a doubt with the missing rudders of the original plane.

jmupilot,

you said that you already fly it. Do u have any problems on the take off couse of this???,


Julio Cavazos
Monterrey, Mexico

jmupilot

The fixed rudders are no problem. Steerable nose gear does just fine. I installed a nose gear retaract in mine, had to beef up the front mount a bit. It broke away first time at the feild. I put the OS FX 46 in mine it's really fast. Takeoff roll was a bit long but found out i needed lots of up elevator trim too. I just held some up in and when flying speed is reached it just comes right off the ground. I balanced mine with an empty fuel tank and its OK i guess no bad habits at all. Elevator is a bit sensitive, roll rate is fast but not bad. I rolls likes its on a rail. Landing it seems a bit fast but may have been me not letting speed bleed off. It will get easier as i get used to the canard configuration in flight. Can't wait to get another couple flights on it. I have had to remove the cowl for flight as there is little air flow over the engine. Mine is mounted sideways. If it were mounted upright or inverted may be able to leave the cowl in place. I'm going to try and make some sort of air scoop to help get more air flow over the engine. I'll try and get some pic this weekend flight ones if possible.

Pete

julio cavazos

I'm finishing the building of the plane, it looks pretty. Its a great design. I think at the end, build was easy even with out instructions, Also install an OS .46 two stroke engine. I'm planning make a flying test and after that make a decision if i add a nose retract and rudders with micro-servos. I purchased two light weight Mexican toy figures in 1:5 scale for less than a dollar, for the pilot and partner. It looks fun

I will post pictures too when finish the project.

Regards

Julio C.

cjackgo

Mine's still under construction too. It's to bad the instructions are so crappy. [:'(] I'm guessing the crome rod installs just in front of the engine? What is it there for?
Did the CG come out right without adding "additional" weight?
I will join the majority of you and install an OS 46 also. Question, am I correct in assuming that when the cannard elevator goes up, the plane noses down?

If nothing else this should be totally different than anyone flies at my field.

Jack

julio cavazos

Yes, my friend . the instructions are not just bad. Its a shame that an excellent Chinese man-work and very good materials are minimized with an excel or power point job.
Your right , the chrome rod goes just in front of engine like a support to avoid wing spin.

The additional weight in this plane, in my opinion, its critical. It need a lot of dead weight to get the balance. I read that the canards are balanced with a fill tank because when you spend the fuel the airplane wins nose weight, That is such much better for a better control in flight.
And for the last question, yes the elevator its the opposites of the other airplanes , when the elevator goes up the nose goes down.

Another adjustment that i had to do it , its to cut a lot of nose gear rod to have a negative thrust, so the plane cans run more distance in the track and get more speed , before take off, that to avoid a poor friction in nose wheel. The plane nose was to high and could be a problem on take off or touch down without the rudders.

Julio

cjackgo

Thanks for the info.

I'm not sure what negative thrust on the nose wheel is. As I understand it, you lowered the front end? By how much?

Did you have to add more weight to the front end than the "brick" that comes with the kit? Good advice on the full tank balance. On a standard aircraft I've never had to worry about that, but this is anything but a standard aircraft.

I have a feeling that the maiden flight will be a real nail biter.

Jack

jrf

My Feedback: (551)

Advice for the first flight from someone who almost lost his. Balance the airplane at the recommended CG, with the tank full. Cut 3/4" off the top of the nosewheel strut. Set the throws at 1/4" each way for the elevator (remember, down is up) and 1/4" each way for the ailerons. And set the elevator neutral at 1/16" up at the trailing edge of the elevator. Fly the first flight with the cowl off to prevent overheating.

Pull all of the colored trim off the bottom of the wings and canard to help you tell top from bottom in flight.

By the way, you did remember to put the tank in with the stopper toward the front of the airplane and the clunk toward the rear didn't you? I didn't.

Good luck,

Jim

cjackgo

Thanks, I'll take your advice.

I noticed that in the instructions that the fuel tank was in backwards and thought it odd, but was probably going to do it that way anyway. Now I will absolutely do it that way! I like the tabs on the side that will enable me to use rubber bands to hold the tank in place.

Has anyone had problems with the prop when landing? It worried me, so I bought a 9-7 three blade pusher. Now it worries me that I won't have enough blade to go airborne in a reasonable distance after hearing that the take off roll is much longer than normal.

Of course my maiden flight won't be till after Christmas because the plane is a present that my wife is allowing me to assemble early.

Jack

julio cavazos

I put the tank like the instructions said , what i notice was that there is a gap between tank and wood, so i add some sticky foam to fix and to avoid engine mounting screws damage the tank( that already happens to me once) and a rubber band, the instructions does´nt mention the rubber band but, the wood shape seem that it was design to that.

I cut about 1 inch of the rod, so the nose goes down a little, that i think will help in to not to lift the nose to much in take off and not to scratch the prop.

I didn't add the nose weight yet because I'm waiting 2 servos from horizon to finish airplane.

For the prop i put a 11x6 11x7 pusher APC nylon prop, What i know its that this line does´nt broke when hits , just scratch or sand the edges,


Regards,

Julio

jmupilot

As I stated before I balanced mine with empty tank, it flew fine when I landed it had about 1/4 tank left. I agree on the control movements pitch is very sensitve. I have a lot of Expo dialed into mine. As far as nose weight to balance I put in a nose gear retract so I had to use a samll piece of lead in the nose of my EZ. Also had to beef up the plywood platform where the battery and weight are attached.

I got on some web sites that talked about the full scale EZ and found it was supposed to sit slightly nose hi at normal take off weight. If it sat nose down the take off roll was dramaticly increased. Mine sits slightly nose high and I just hold some up until it lifts off on its own. I saw no bad tendency's in flight, just that it needed some up trim. When I landed it seems that the elevator is ever so slightly down at the trailing edge from what would be flat with the bottom of the canard. As for the ailerons I have them on seperate channels so i can dial in differetial aileron and if needed to adjust them to solve any bad trim in the pitch axis. I haven't tried any pitch changes yet but I like the differential aileron. Mine moves up about 1/2 in and down about 1/4 in. It rolls like it's on a string, and is not to fast a roll rate. I agree that the trim on the bottom of the wings should be removed. It is hard enough to get used to the canard silhouette, and an all white bottom helps a lot.

I want to replace the chrome rod across the rear of the plane with a carbonfibre one that should weigh less. I have even thought of just threading a small screw into the hole as it's only purpose is to keep the wing from rotating. I would guess the 4 nylon bolts will do the same thing.
It's probably not even needed.

The cowl definatly needs some airflow improvement. I may just build a scoop and attatch it to the wing. The OS46 doesnt stick out enough to get a good flow over the head. Maybe some other engine may. I almost put a Saito 80 4 Stroke on mine. I'll just fly without the cowl for a while. I'm turning an 11x6 APC pusher prop and have seen no problems with hitting the ground. If it gets in anattitiude high enough to strike the prop its already beyond the stall pitch anyway, and is going have more problems than a broken prop that close to the ground.

Pete