opjose

I haven't, though I'd imagine that Mini's would work fine.

They should provide enough clearance.

I doubt you would need to do this for weight issues though.

Even with an anti-vibration mount, pitts muffler, etc., which all add weight. I've have my battery forward.

ysteve1

well i'm not really worried about the weight, i just couldn't get the supplied linkage to work. It seems as tho the CF rod is way too long. I measured it and it is 600mm like listed in the docs but that length is the same distance from where the servo is suppose to go and to the end of the plane where the tailwheel mounts. so how are the linkage suppose to bend to fit, or was i suppose to cut the CF rod?

opjose

I don't recall cutting the rod, though it is possible that I did.

I do remember that the metal pushrod ends could be adjusted in length to fit.

I loosely installed the rods, and affixed the elevator side linkages.

Then I adjusted the length of the rod end closest to the servo and affixed it in place.

It's worked fine, and there is NO lateral play ( no flutter! ) while the rods hold quite firmly.

I have not been displeased with this arrangement.

ysteve1

for some reason my CF rod extends past the exit holes for the linkage on the sides and a little past the hole cut out for the servo. so are you suppose to bend the linkages in the shape of a 'S' to make it fit?

opjose

No cut it down.

I found a piece of my CF rod in my "leftovers" box, so I did cut mine down... My leftover piece was about 3.5" long or so.

Measure carefully first!

It's ok to get the CF rod a little long, as you can adjust the wires.

The other way around will cause you to look for another mechanism altogether...

If I recall correctly, the wires on one side can be moved in and out to establish the final length. I believe I used screw on adjustable connects at the servo to I could fine tune the elevators later.

Remember that when you bend the "Y" out at the elevator, you will be shortening it a bit, so allow for this with the CF rod too.

I had some Dubro "exit" hole plastic inserts available that I installed at the elevator wire exits to make it look nice.

ysteve1

Nice, good to know. I thought i was going crazy.
Unfortunately i already epoxied the black ends on the CF rod (that's what i get for not test fitting first). it shouldn't be too hard to cut the rod and then clean off all excess crap off the end

opjose

You could leave them in place and cut down the rod to size, then epoxy it together.

Wax paper does not adhere to epoxy, so you re-attach the two cut portions using epoxy, and wipe off the excess and wrap with epoxy to keep things straight.

You could also wrap tape or a plastic wrap around this.

It's not going to ever be visible so as long as it is strong who cares.

paul49

Hi Steve and opjose,

I eventually gave up on the single pushrod as I couldn't find a way to fit the two wires down the fuselage and out through the slots. (Apart from a trainer and an easy-build electric, this is my first build which required a bit of thought so I probably have missed something obvious to a more experienced assembler.) I remember someone posting that it was easier if you did this before you glued in the horizontal stab. so you could get your fingers in to assist but it was too late for me. Then I tried Sullivan Goldenrods but couldn't think of an easy way to secure them inside the fuselage. Finally I used two servos and two pushrods and this was easy to install and mix in the radio. However, it occurred to me that this method allowed for some sideways movement of the rods and your comment, opjose, makes me wonder if this will be a problem. My trainer uses single pushrods for the rudder and elevator and, if you grab one of the surfaces and try to move it, the pushrod bangs around inside the fuselage. But it doesn't seem to affect the way the plane flies. I still haven't quite finished the Giles so I don't know how it will fly.
Should I be thinking of restricting the sideways movement of the pushrods in the Giles?

Cheers,
Paul.

ysteve1

Paul,
in past experience you want to have those pushrod anchored somehow. depending on your flying style the movement of the pushrods could effect the flight of the aircraft (flutter) and the response time of the control surfaces.
Also if you plan on running long linkage then i would go with a min of 4-40 rod. One way that i have anchored long linkage in the past is to CA light ply down the center (vertical or horizontal) of the fuselage (near where the wing bolts are) and run the linkage thru those (you can run the linkage thru plastic sleeves that are glued to the light ply and glued to the exit by the tail). that will help the lateral movement of the pushrods

opjose

I've done this with many planes so I found it somewhat easy.

You bend the wires out slightly and insert the rod 90 degrees to it's eventual orientation.

Sometimes I put a piece of wire or string on each side to act as a leader... inserting the string all the way back and out first.

I then get the rod all the way down the fuse, and work it almost into position, then pull the string to get the rods to slip out of the slots.


As ysteve1 said, normally this is of big concern, as any time there is lateral movement you have the opportunity for flutter.

However that said, with the arrangement in the Giles I haven't had any problems.

The "three point" positioning seems to prevent lateral movement.... and I've pushed this plane quite hard.

mattmc

Giles Flight 2

Flight 2, Incident 2 - Hot landing - http://fangin.com/blog/?p=173

Giles Flickr pix
[link=http://www.flickr.com/photos/fangin/2541185376/in/set-72157602218592116/][/link]

paul49

Sorry to hear about that, matt, but I like what I can see of the "checkerboard" repair you've made where the covering peeled off a few weeks ago. Do you have any side-on photos?
Also interesting that we both have a Giles and a PA Addiction . My Addiction is still in the box waiting until I finish building the Giles.

mattmc

Paul,

Some side on photos.
The Addiction is a lot of fun and a quick build too.
What stage are you up to on the Giles?

Giles Flickr pix
[link=http://www.flickr.com/photos/fangin/2541185376/in/set-72157602218592116/][/link]
[link=http://www.flickr.com/photos/fangin/2541185376/in/set-72157602218592116/][/link]
[link=http://www.flickr.com/photos/fangin/2541185376/in/set-72157602218592116/][/link]

paul49

To finish the Giles, I just have to cut the openings in the cowl, hook up the throttle servo, fit the fuel tank and canopy.
I was thinking that your new colour scheme would help with orientation. My distance vision isn't quite so good any more and the standard Giles looks the same top and bottom whereas the underside of yours is very obvious.

paul49

Finally finished the Giles on Saturday. Took it to the club on Sunday but ran out of courage and asked one of the experienced guys to fly it for me. He pronounced it fit and healthy but suggested a couple of ounces of lead in the nose and a bit less deflection on the elevator. I've got the battery right forward in the tray but maybe I could jam it up against the tank (or just add a bit of lead.) The OS55AX is only 14.3 oz compared to .70 or .80 4 strokes which seem to weigh around 17-20 oz so I guess it can't do any harm.

opjose and steve,
After your advice, I took out the dual pushrods on the elevator and persisted with the original single pushrod. It is a lot more precise.

Thanks again to everyone for your patience and invaluable assistance. Now I just have to talk myself into flying it next weekend.

mattmc

Good luck with the maiden.
I still haven't taken mine up again. Have repaired the landing gear and took it to the field last friday but was having trouble getting consistent idle and top end with the OS70 FS.

Let us know how you go flying it.

Started the Addiction build yet?

paul49

Hi Matt,

I've never had any experience with tuning 4 strokes but I'd like to own one some day. My OS46AX is a bit touchy in the mid range at times - it's still pretty new so I don't make much effort to lean it out (and it's more than enough power for a trainer, anyway). The first few tanks it would sometimes cut out when I opened the throttle after idling down final, so I had to forget about the go-around. By contrast, the 55AX in the Giles ran beautifully. Started first time after 2-3 seconds on the starter, carried out the "full throttle rich then lean then rich etc" break-in as per the manual. Then adjusted it nice and rich and handed it over to Brian for the first flight. Didn't skip a beat.


One of my friends is going to help with the Addiction build so I'll wait until he's free. Don't suppose I really need any help but he's built a lot of models so two heads will be better than one.

blvdbuzzard

Well Mine is in the big brown truck on its way to me . It was $88.00 at nitroplanes. Hard to pass up for that price.

I will be using a YS .63 FS in the nose, I also have a Magnum .52 I can put in, standard servos all around and nothing really special. I was wondering if it needed heavy duty sevos but sounds like standard or standard BB servo work. I also ordered a New Fascination-50 F3A. It was $79.00.

I do not really expect all that much from an ARF that sells for the price. Not sure about the covering. If it lasts I will be one happy camper. If not, I will just re-cover it.


Dru.

paul49

Hi Dru,

Sounds like a bargain. Mine's only flown once so I definitely don't qualify as reliable advice but I just used HS311 servos on ailerons and throttle and HS475HB on elevator and rudder. The covering seems quite sturdy on the Version 2 - apparently the original model had some problems in that area.

Cheers,
Paul.

ysteve1

Hey Dru,
It's a nice plane, and i've found no bad spots as far as construction goes. I did add extra glue around the gear mount and firewall area, but i do that for all my ARFS. The covering is nice and sturdy, it's a painted covering so be careful when cutting, use a sharp blade, it will crack if not paying attention. I am using standard JR 517 servos with a saito 72. Haven't flow it yet but it is ready to go. the only thing not done is the cowling. I have it off for engine adjustments. i also won't be using the wheel pants since we have a grass runway but they install easily (had them on for show-n-tell at club meeting).
enjoy and i will repost once i get it in the air.

steve

blvdbuzzard

You have got to be FREAKIN kidding me. I just opened the box. There is no way I got this for $88.00 dollars. This has to be some kind of trick. This plane looks way to good to be that cheap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The pictures on the site do not do it justice. It looks so much better in real life. If it flies .0000000000000000001% as good as it looks, it is going to be a GREAT plane. To bad i won't be able to get it in the air for a while.



Dru.

opjose

It does.

Mine flies wonderfly with a T.H. .46 engine, with an 11x6 APC prop.

Note:

I find that on mine the down thrust tends to pull the nose down a bit during a hard in flight run-up.

Yet when I back off, the plane stays level ( which indicates the proper down thrust ), so be ready for this.

I HIGHLY advise applying TOP FLIGHT Clear Coat on the covering as I've indicated in other threads.

The covering on this plane is indeed thicker than most, but it has been painted over in places.

If you do not apply the clear coat, you may find that the edges will end up with paint chipping off. The clear coat helps prevent this a lot.

Standard servos are fine.

paul49

Finally flew the Giles myself today. First takeoff was a "weave and wiggle" until I got used to the rudder but once in the air it flies very nicely. I've got all the control surfaces toned down on low rates so it's very docile. (It's easier to fly than my trainer.)
I had a very experienced flier by my side for the first few circuits and since I'd asked him about high speed stalls, he said "Take it up five mistakes high, select high rates on the elevator, now full back stick". Things got out of shape very quickly. But at least I know what not to do now.
Remembering your comments, opjose, I thought I might as well make sure I could land it with plenty of fuel left. Came in a bit hot on the first attempt and it did four gentle bounces. Second attempt was still too fast but I held it off an inch or two high and, as you said, it just kept flying but turned into a good landing even if I did use all the strip. Third approach was too slow and it dropped the nose on me about 6 inches off the ground but no damage. Fourth landing was perfect, so I decided to quit while I was ahead. Next time, I'll do a few touch and goes until I work out the correct approach speed.
All in all, after three tanks, I brought it home in one piece and I enjoyed it immensely.
I'm going to put some red covering on the underside (some stripes or checkers perhaps) as I find it quite hard to see against the beautiful blue Australian sky.

ysteve1

get to field,
Radio range check, check
Control services in right direction, check
Fuel, check

First flight was great!, take off smooooth little right and up trim and level flight. Did some spins, loops and touch-n-go's. Landed with no problems. Great plane.

Second flight was OK, take off smooth, got it up and engine (saito 72) would lean out and sputter, decide just to come in and land. On finale down wind corner plane goes all crazy, i recover and get it over the runway (it's a grass runway) from 3 feet high it goes crazy and cartwheels down the runway. NO DAMAGE!, woohooo.

Third flight disaster! After checking radio and bettery (4 cell 1100 mah showing 5.0V) and making an engine adjustment I roll out for third flight.
Take off smooth, As soon as it breaks ground I bank it left out over the trees, it gets maybe 15 -20 feet high and just starts going crazy, it's porpoising and going in the wrong directions. the guys behind me are yelling "MORE POWER" and i'm yelling "I DON'T HAVE IT". i (or it) manages to start heading back in the right direction but with no altitude. Finally as it starts to go in I cut power and watch helplessly as it hits the trees with a resounding WHACK!.

Here are the results....

opjose

The "it goes crazy" problem points to a receiver (RF noise, glitch, interference, etc ) or power issue ( RX "reset" or TX re-initializing ), particularly since after your second landing, a "once over" revealed nothing obvious amiss, such as a broken off control horn, etc.

You may want to review your equipment.