Dokioto

I would.. As they can vibrate loose. A dab is all thats needed (I use the blue stuff)

Cerberus90

Something tells me mine won't vibrate loose. They're soooo tight.

I've threadlocked the other bolts though, all the diff ones.

I'm using the Tamiya blue stuff too, although the tube keeps leaking.


Wish the weather would pick up over here, its just been so wet recently.

Paradoxmaker

Stock Ofna (HONG NOR) engine mount screws are VERY TIGHT and have A LOT of thread lock applied. If you need to, cut a slot in them and remove em with a flatblade screwdriver. I always have a spare set on hand.

Once you have them out, regular threadlock applied normally will be perfect. I've never had the same problems removing the screws from my Jammin or my son's LX AFTER getting the screws removed the 1st time.

Never run with out without threadlock on these screws because they can shift under load and vibration.

oldtown72

I think the high here in Arizona today was a freezing 64 degrees with sunny skies. I know I'm such an ass.

jtnktz

My Feedback: (4)

Hey everyone. Well I just got me a OFNA LXComp and didn't even think I was gonna be walking home with 2 extra R/C Vehicles. Well I got this thing basically for 15 bucks and about 8 hours of work. Friend told me if I could fix his E-Maxx I can have the buggy. I said NP! Well got home and started playing with it. First off it sounded like the one way bearing was bad. Than when it was running it wouldn't last. I'm thinking that it was a air leak I found after I was done playing with it. Is there anything I should know about this buggy? Is it a race buggy? A bash buggy? Also what is the stock settings? Like for the HSN and the LSD? This is my first R/C other than a MT and mini's. I'm excited cause this thing is HUGE!!! Is there more than 1 lx? For example the topic says LX1. Is there a LX2? How do you identify it? Heres some pictures of it. Sorry its so dirty. I have been working on the E-Maxx since I got home. He wants it done by tomorrow...

rshooch

thay are pretty much the same the lx1 is an updated verson of your buggy. dif. shocks,engine,and c hub suspension but as far as chassis lay out thay are the same

jtnktz

My Feedback: (4)

So I have the low model? Bummer.

jaws1

you ve got yourself a good deal there, dont despire its a old model as it can be upgrated, the only problem is the front knuckles which is quite weak but you can upgrade it to lx1 with a few parts and it should be a tough basher, i would give it a good clean out and check all bearings

Paradoxmaker

Pretty sure you Have a Force 26 on that buggy so here are the baselines for you.


And yes there are many Models of the LX. The LX1 oddly enough is the newest.

There is also a Ultra Worlds,Ultra MBX, Ultra MBX comp, Ultra LX, Ultra LX Comp, and a Ultra LX Comp 2. The basic design goes back about 10 years.

It appears that you have a Ultra LX Comp 2 which was the model immediatly before the LX1 (yes 2 was before 1, go figure).

How do you identify?? Ultra Lx comp 2 has the laydown steering servo which is the biggest givaway. That it's a 2 instead of an earlier model.

jtnktz

My Feedback: (4)

This is exactly what I was looking for. Just a question do I lean the HSN or richen it from flush? The HSN doesn't lean 2 turns from flush

Paradoxmaker

Not exactly sure how to answer that one...

You lean the HSN (screw it in) from flush.

If the HSN is FLUSH with the top of it's housing it will screw in (lean) about 5-6 turns, so if you can't lean it 2 turns from flush you either have it set wrong or someting is wrong with the carb.

Also on the Force 26 I know that the baseline for the LSN is set flush to the housing, but in my experiance that makes the engine very rich on the low end. I run mine 1/4 to 1 turn in from flush.

jtnktz

My Feedback: (4)

Great....It basically stops at flush... The carburetor HSN looks funky... It looks smaller than the one in the picture. Now that I look at it...it looks like he cut it off or broke it off...Can anyone tell me how many turns from all the way leaned out is flush for you guys? So I can use that as a template...

Paradoxmaker

No no no no no, look back at the pic i posted.

Look at the housing that the screws are in. The needle is considered FLUSH when the head of the needle screw is flat even with the top edge of the housing.

If the screw stops you are bottomed out in the housing and you WILL DAMAGE THE SCREW AND/OR THE SEAT if you try to force it further in.

if you look back at that pic it shows the LSN "B" flush and the HSN "A" is probably about 1.5 - 2 turns in from lean (judging that the screw is NOT flush with the top)

Paradoxmaker

Well if it was cut off or broken that all bets are off as to what the settings will be...

jtnktz

My Feedback: (4)

Anyone know where I can get a replacement? Not a full carb but just that part... (The metal part that encloses the HSN) Does it look short to you guys? Or is it just me?

Paradoxmaker

Yeah it looks shortened....

You can get replacment parts from www.nitrohouse.com

http://www.nitrohouse.com/eng_parts_ofna_force_26.htm

52259 Main Needle Assembly 12.71

jaws1

paradoxmaker is really the expert on the ofna/hong nor ultras, glad to have you here and ofna forum

Paradoxmaker

Thanks,

I don't know about being called an expert, but you do learn a lot by breaking em

jtnktz

My Feedback: (4)

Till I get more cash can someone tell me how many turns you richen the HSN from the bottom?

Paradoxmaker

Well I just checked my Son's Force 26 and it's about 3.75 - 4 turns from the bottom. That's from the last time running in Early Dec with air temps in the mid 70's.

oldtown72

I think my .28 is 2.5 turnes out from bottom. I don't think our engines are the same though.

Has anyone built a ramp yet? I'm in the middle of building mine. I went to MisbehavenRc and got specs for one. I'll take some pics when I'm done for you guys.

1234vance

My Feedback: (1)

Hi I just got my first lx 1 , I love this thing looks vary strong. I do have a few questions, to put diff oil in it do you have to take the hole buggy apart ? The other is if I use a bump
box and replace the pull start with a backer plate, is there a 1 peace motor mount I can BUY, hate haveing to re mess gears every time. This is my winter project and I can't wait for sping sick of looken at all this snow ! And the wife keeps telling me dont you start that thing in my house but she did let me display it on the liveing room !!! lmao

Cant wait to pipe this thing and change up the gearing a little bit , go or blow and the smell of nitro !!!

Paradoxmaker

OK, you don't have to take teh entire buggy apart to change the oils but it is involved...

For the front and the rears you can get away with removing just half of the tranny case. Remove the 4 rearmost screws (2 4mm ones and 2 3mm ones) tranny on the underside of the chassis, remove the shocks, remove the swaybar, remove the arm pin holder, and then remove the 4 screws at teh top of the tranny case that hold the half's together...... You can leave the arms and hinge pins in place and pull the tranny out of the case.

For the center, start with removing the throttle/brake servo horn from the servo and the carb (leave it attached to the brakes). Remove the 4 screws that hold the mount to the chassis and then pull the entire tranny off the chassis. Then remove the 4 screws that hold the upper plate on, after that you can remove the tranny from between the mounts. Make sure you pay attention to which driveshaft belongs to the front and the back.

The hardest parts about putting it back together is getting the driveshafts back in right and making sure you remember to put the brake disks back on when you re-assemble.


On to the rest
The Jammin 1 piece mount will fit the chassis but since some motors are shaped differently than others, it may not work. It will let an engine sit lower on the chassis and since there is no relief cut into the chassis under the motor, some may hit the chassis and not mount correctly. BTW even with a 1 piece mount you will have to reset the mesh everytime you remove the engine.

1234vance

My Feedback: (1)

Thank you vary much for all the info sounds like a big job. But thats why I picked nitro as a new hobby I like to tinker and fix stuff. And if I mess it up to bad it didnt cost me 600 bucks to learn. Onec again thanks for the info and taken the time out of your day to help.

thor04

sure now some posts on a easy way to change the diff oils lol good thing i started in the back and not the front and figuered it out but it is really easy.
i got a question though what does ofna use on the pinion screws cause what ever it is it on the yolk and i can't get it off. just pry really hard?