Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
#3076
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Greeley, CO
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Try raising each aileron 1/8". This will cause wash out in the wing tips thus increasing the aoa. This will cause the wing tips to stall last and hopefully get rid of the nasty tip stall.
#3078
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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Initial impressions with the TF Mustang are ones of real disappointment and that I have paid WAAAYYY too much for this model as it was exactly twice the price of the Phoenix and Seagull and only half as good. It cost me $500 and the other two kits were $250 and $280 respectively. I'm in Australia remember.
#3079
I think you can now get the Seagull P47 Snafu through SIG models in the US. It is a fantastic model and worth every cent. And it's the best flying / landing warbird that I've owned.
Yes crikey indeed! If I'd been able to inspect it in a hobby shop first I would have baulked at the value proposition and walked away. Now i'll just try and make the most of it and do all the mods to make it a great flying non-disintergrating on landing plane.
Yes crikey indeed! If I'd been able to inspect it in a hobby shop first I would have baulked at the value proposition and walked away. Now i'll just try and make the most of it and do all the mods to make it a great flying non-disintergrating on landing plane.
#3080
Flying Fiz, I hate to break it to you but it's not worth that kind of money at all unless you like to do additional work and tweaking. The hardware is ****.. and I'd replace the pushrod for the tailwheel for a stronger one right away. Mine bent the first run out. Definitely reinforce the landing gear are as much as possible. It flies OK, but seems like it needs a bit of additional down thrust and/or the stated CG in the manual is too far back for sure. I'd start at the 5 1/4" mark and no further back.
Not to break your spirits on it, but just to provide a true perspective of what you're getting into
Not to break your spirits on it, but just to provide a true perspective of what you're getting into
#3081
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Thanks Fiz, you are correct, just looked it up--$289,,, my wife thanks you,,, my wallet thanks you too.... (feels like a 6 pack being tossed into an AA meeting,,, I was doing so well...)
#3083
Same plane and so many different experiences. Mine flew great on the maiden at the stated c.g in the manual,and with a DLE 20 is very spirited indeed. Landing with 1/2 flaps on grass field is not a problem if you keep just a little speed on tap and chop it just as the wheels come close. All in all it's not bad for under $300 (on sale with coupons). If I don't destroy it this summer I plan to strip it and give her a facelift perhaps converting her to a B model.
#3084
Your welcome. I know you will enjoy it, the build is a breeze, goes together like a swiss watch and the quality is fantastic. It also flies great and looks so good flying past fast & low.
#3085
My Feedback: (14)
While you can argue that raising (reflexing) both ailerons is truly washout or not; it's a fact that doing so helps prevent tip stalls.
http://www.mnbigbirds.com/images/PDF...%204_21_12.pdf
http://www.nextcraft.com/highlift_bill_harris.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/aero...on-reflex.html
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=295990
I was happy to buy my Mustang on sale at Tower for $199 with free shipping. I'm waiting for another sale like that.
http://www.mnbigbirds.com/images/PDF...%204_21_12.pdf
http://www.nextcraft.com/highlift_bill_harris.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/aero...on-reflex.html
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=295990
I was happy to buy my Mustang on sale at Tower for $199 with free shipping. I'm waiting for another sale like that.
#3087
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: , UNITED KINGDOM
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why dont robart make the aluminium wheels in the 3 1/4 rim size? at least that way it would look scale on both sides of the rim dish they only do these in 4" start off size
http://robart.com/collections/wheels...aluminum-wheel
http://robart.com/collections/wheels...aluminum-wheel
#3088
My Feedback: (7)
I will have a fiber glassed, panel lined, and riveted P-51 arf with air up spring down mains a retractable tail wheel and set up for an OS FS 91 at the Perry swap meet if anyone is interested. It is in need of a little work on the right main gear mounting rail. It will be in the Miller murphy building.
#3089
I started my build last night.....more disappointment..
You Have To Make Your Own Aileron Hinges. And the supplied furry material was pure crap. I binned it and used something else.
I also had to iron each wing for 20 minutes, even then I wasn't completely happy with the finish.
I then wasted two hours of my life I won't get back building up one retract mounting area and I'm still not finished....
If I hadnt spent so much money on this I would sell it, but I know I'd take a bath on it so I'll push ahead. At least I already had all the servos and engine from another plane.
You Have To Make Your Own Aileron Hinges. And the supplied furry material was pure crap. I binned it and used something else.
I also had to iron each wing for 20 minutes, even then I wasn't completely happy with the finish.
I then wasted two hours of my life I won't get back building up one retract mounting area and I'm still not finished....
If I hadnt spent so much money on this I would sell it, but I know I'd take a bath on it so I'll push ahead. At least I already had all the servos and engine from another plane.
#3091
My Feedback: (17)
It's been my experience that there is a little disappointment in nearly every ARF. Most of the time the CA hinges that come with them have worked fine but I have had failures of them at least twice in the last 3 years, one was a catastrophic failure that caused a total loss of the plane. Hobbico stood tall and replaced the plane and all damaged components including the engine.
The CA hinges on my P-51 have done well with no failures. As for the covering, I've had to shrink and iron mine nearly every time I've taken the plane to the field. Beefing up the retract mounts is a necessary chore but if you add shock absorbing struts you will probably never have a problem. It's my belief that the shock of a hard landing travels up the wire landing gear and into the wing causing cracks, and soon after, mount failure.
Keep pushing ahead and you will be rewarded with a really nice looking and flying plane.
The CA hinges on my P-51 have done well with no failures. As for the covering, I've had to shrink and iron mine nearly every time I've taken the plane to the field. Beefing up the retract mounts is a necessary chore but if you add shock absorbing struts you will probably never have a problem. It's my belief that the shock of a hard landing travels up the wire landing gear and into the wing causing cracks, and soon after, mount failure.
Keep pushing ahead and you will be rewarded with a really nice looking and flying plane.
#3092
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Meridian, ID
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Fiz, You did not waste your time reinforcing the retract rails. I've been flying mine for 5 years trouble-free after adding hardwood under the existing rails. Well worth the extra effort.
I started my build last night.....more disappointment..
You Have To Make Your Own Aileron Hinges. And the supplied furry material was pure crap. I binned it and used something else.
I also had to iron each wing for 20 minutes, even then I wasn't completely happy with the finish.
I then wasted two hours of my life I won't get back building up one retract mounting area and I'm still not finished....
If I hadnt spent so much money on this I would sell it, but I know I'd take a bath on it so I'll push ahead. At least I already had all the servos and engine from another plane.
You Have To Make Your Own Aileron Hinges. And the supplied furry material was pure crap. I binned it and used something else.
I also had to iron each wing for 20 minutes, even then I wasn't completely happy with the finish.
I then wasted two hours of my life I won't get back building up one retract mounting area and I'm still not finished....
If I hadnt spent so much money on this I would sell it, but I know I'd take a bath on it so I'll push ahead. At least I already had all the servos and engine from another plane.
#3093
I have had CA hinges fail after a few years of hard flying, thankfully I saw the rudder flopping when I landed and got them replaced, otherwise the rest of them have held up well. As far as this ARF goes, it is very close in build to the kit version, though the landing gear rails in the kit are better designed, and can be modified as needed before covering.
#3096
Hi I got it from Austars Models. They are an Australian large scale plane hobbyshop, that now has well stocked warehouses in the US, so worth a look.
It is going with an OS GT15cc, but if that's not enough I have an OS GT20cc. I'm sure the 15cc will be enough and the prop is really nice and light.
I've just finished the 4 wing servos and the reinforcement of the retract supports. Will keep on building at a good pace now, so I should be getting it in the air in a few weeks at the most.
It is going with an OS GT15cc, but if that's not enough I have an OS GT20cc. I'm sure the 15cc will be enough and the prop is really nice and light.
I've just finished the 4 wing servos and the reinforcement of the retract supports. Will keep on building at a good pace now, so I should be getting it in the air in a few weeks at the most.
#3098
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Join Date: May 2010
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Great! I have the DLE in mine lots of power! I think the 15cc os will work good. I have the os ggt15 glow in a plane of mine and it has lots of power it tore the tail feathers almost off the Sig 4*64 arf I had it in. Just installed it in a ultra stick 60 to finish breaking it in.
#3099
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That 4 blade looks nice, let us know how it works out. As for the stock spinner, can you just cut two more slots? Or how about painting a true turn? Balancing can be a pain after painting, but I had to balance my stock spinner anyway as it out farther then I could just let go.
#3100
Hi,
Yes I will be attempting to dremel two additional prop slots in the original spinner. I'll make a template of the shape to be removed and take it slowly with the dremel, I'll drill a few holes first and work away with a grinder or maybe the metal cutting dick first then grind away...nothing to loose and if successful it will look great as the yellow on the prop matches the spinner quite well.
Yes I will be attempting to dremel two additional prop slots in the original spinner. I'll make a template of the shape to be removed and take it slowly with the dremel, I'll drill a few holes first and work away with a grinder or maybe the metal cutting dick first then grind away...nothing to loose and if successful it will look great as the yellow on the prop matches the spinner quite well.