Tsutomu Mabuchi

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, I will use Standard one. Balanced spinners is the first priority.
All up weight of my 310 is 19.8 lbs(9.0Kg). No gear doors.
Two YS63S and Sierra retracts are a bit heavier than 46FX's and Robart
retract, but I took the nose weight away a bit (1/4) to balance.
Will make the first flight without the gear doors.


Tsutomu Mabuchi

540horses

Has anyone tried the dave brown spinners. they have a great sellection, balanced very well and have a beautiful fit and finish. they are 1/3 the cost of truturn. if you wanted a spinner between standard length and ultimate, they are called the 300 shape by dave brown. i have used these several times and they are a real nice product. they are carried by tower. goodluck 540

Tsutomu Mabuchi

My Feedback: (1)

Hello,
I have looked on Tower and Dave Brown for that shape before my order of
TruTurn, but none of them. Where can I find 300 series? Only by direct contact?

Tsutomu Mabuchi

Tsutomu Mabuchi

My Feedback: (1)

My C310 is almost complete except waiting for TRIM wheels and TruTurn spinners.
I drilled out 1/4" hole on the stock main wheels since Sierra main gear has 1/4" axle,
but I failed to make perpendicular hole on one of them so I need another main wheels.
Robart 3 1/2" is too thick and Dave Brown does not accept 1/4" axle.
And I found one thing which I have worried about.
When I switch on the RAM xenon strobe light in the wing tip, both flap and throttle
servos have electromagnetic interference, sometimes aileron servos do.
I have been testing strobes during some building phases if it work OK, but not with
all other power on.
I wanted to separate strobe wiring from others, but it was unable because of built
wing. My installing strobe lights with a micro electronic receiver switch was in vain.[&o]

Tsutomu Mabuchi

turnnburn

My Feedback: (49)

Whats wrong with the spinners that come with the kit. Im using them and have no issues. I havnt noticed any eccesvie vibration at all. Either I'm lucky or Im not paying close enough attention I guess.

marktur

Hi guys,

Just wondering....are there other options for wheels and exhaust stacks along with Meesh's stuff? Just curious...it's another $80 (with the tap).... What tires are being used with the hubs? If everyone says Meesh is the best, then he'll have my order first thing in the morning...

(No offense, Meesh - just trying to see what everyone's doing and if they're happy)

Thanks,
Mark


Who is monitoring this thread these days?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Meesh's hubs work with the original tires.

turnnburn

My Feedback: (49)

Meeshs exhaust stacks work great and he is great to deal with. I sent him two different orders and he sent my stuff almost immediatly both times.

I didnt know he had wheels ? I am guessing they are alluminum ?

boingram

What is the info on the stacks and the tap? Don't need the hubs...using Intairco wheels and brakes.

I will go back through the thread if necessary, but just thought I'd check...thanks...

Bo

R/C Foolish

My Feedback: (6)

When using the Bisson mufflers, you have to cut the exhaust staks to clear the nacelles per the instructions. These are extensions that you tap the flange and can screw in after the nacelle is in place. They work great. The aluminum wheel hubs are for the main wheels only and provide a no flex wheel hub using the stock tires. There doesn't seem to be an issue with the nose wheel.

R/C Foolish

boingram

How can the stacks be purchased?

Bo

dbrown711

Ok, here's an update:
I got a chance to fly today and it turned out pretty good. I'm much happier with the 46 FXs now, but it's possibly just due to the colder air. The take off roll was only about 250 feet with less than ten degrees of flaps. It climbed out with a descent amount of authority and quickly increased speed. During this flight I was able to throttle back to around 3/4 throttle and maintain descent performance. The landing approach was a bit fast and I touched a little harder than I would have liked. Upon touchdown the left main gear partially collapsed. I'm not sure what caused this, possibly not locked all the way down? I flew with 11x6 APC props turning about 11,500 RPM.

PILOT RD

My Feedback: (5)

Has the structural problem with the wing been cured by Top Flite or is it still recommended to glass and paint the wing? RD

marktur

Bo - I sent MEESH a personal message and he did sell the stuff to me. It came out to $80 with the tap and everything else.

It should be on it's way today, hopefully!

Thanks,
Mark

marktur

Yes, I'd like to hear about the wing, too.

My kit was shipped from GP to my LHS last week...should I expect that things have been strengthened? Man, I hate the idea of doing surgery on this model before I even put it together...but I will if necessary. Is there any way to "check" on things without cutting?

Thanks,
Mark

boingram

<arktur...how do you contact him?

Thanks,

Bo

R/C Foolish

My Feedback: (6)

I would NOT imagine that Top Flight did anything about the issue of the wings. Considering how many planes were sold and just a handful of problems that could be attributed to any number of things. You should do what you think is best. I have been flying mine off grass for 4 months now without any problems at all. Remember there is a lot of weight out on those wings and you can't bounce it in.

R/C Foolish

marktur

RC Foolish - that's a fair answer...I'm flying from a paved runway, so I think I'll fix it if/when it breaks.

I am trying to clean up all my other "unfinished" projects before I dive into the 310, but I think tomorrow will be the day.
I have a CMP Zero (54") with an OS 70 FS in it that flies like *****...I was about to give it away, but then I started thinking about it, and decided that maybe it's a good idea to hang on to this heavy pig of a plane so I'm used to flying around with high wing loading. I ended up cutting up the wing to add flaps - and hopefully that will allow me to land at a reasonable speed. We'll see...

Cya,
Mark

marktur

RC - about how long do you think it takes the average builder to get this plane in the air?

Also - I've read that the electric guys are removing the lead from the front...I don't see why us gas guys shouldn't do the same thing, and replace with batteries for lighting and receiver power as well. Did you do this by chance? If you did, what's the least destructive way to do it (if you think it's worth the time and effort)?

I also think I'm going to cut out the rear panel and make it a door to hide the switches and charging jacks like I saw someone else do in this huge thread...are there any other changes that you know of that you would do now that you've been flying yours for a while?

Thanks - sorry for all the questions - I must sound like a little kid in a new toy store!
Mark

bluestratos

I recently cut the door out of a fiberglass fuse and thought I would share my method. I took a sharp pointed dental scribe and traced around the opening nice and deep before I did the final cut with a sharp exacto knive. The makes the cut so tight that you can actually do some final edge sanding without making the door too small for the opening. I then traced the door onto some white plastic stock, then made it it 3/16th inch wider all around the door, and 1/16th inch narrower than the opening to create a full stop. I was able to clamp this into the opening and wick thin CA to mount it permently. I made a little door handle with a blade that drops into a slot I cut into the floor that I mounted the charge switch and battery.
I painted the edges of the door to match the plan color and voila.. perfect door.

Regards,
Randy

alans

For anyone who wants to get the lead out of the Fus and replace with batteries see post 1886
Well I give up, after 25yrs in engineering I can't get that lead out from inside the Fus.
This is how I am going to do it. (see pictures)

Use the polystyrene pad that came with the Plane and stand its nose in it, it really is solid and won't fall over !
Under the Fus where the retracts fit there is a very flimsy piece of Glass Fibre, gently cut away using a strong sharp Hobby Knife.
You can now see and get at the Lead. You can easily glue the same pice back later or make a new one, you can get your hand inside the Fuse to hold it while it hardens.
Don't glue it back until later as you can use this hole to position and retain the battery !!

The Fus weighs 5 llb and now I am going to start removing the lead, i will let you know how I get on !!

Attachments
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boingram

Alans...you did not send the pics with your post...Bo

alans

Bo
I dont have the pictures anymore
Go to my original post number 1886 and the pictures are there , I managed to get a whole cup full of lead shot out of the front of the fus, I then put my reciever and lighting batteries in there.

marktur

OK, pardon my ignorance, but HOW did you get it out?
I don't want to break anything. What tools, and how?

Thanks,
Mark

alans

It was easy, but i would change a few things if I was to do it again.

Cut out the T section as the photos show, keep it and you can replace later !

Then put some masking tape around the front light to stop any vibration that might disturb the bulb.

Stand the model nose up in the polystyrene packaging that came with the model, it is very sturdy. If you have discarded the packaging not sure how you would do it as this packaging fits perfectly and supports the nose and eliminates unwanted vibration while tapping it with the chisel.

This leaves both hands free, get a sharp wood chisel around 1/4 inch wide.

Starting in the middle of the lead shot, start tapping the chisel with a hammer. Sounds crude but it works.

THIS IS IMPORTANT
Work away removing the lead shot but leave the last row or 2 (the lead shot that is closest to the wall of the fus)
dont be greedy and try and get it all out or you will cause a stress fracture to the nose.
I got every last piece out and notice a very small hairline crack from outside the nose which i had to slightly reinforce from inside with some Epoxy.
As i say the second time round you always do something different, I removed the lead shot from my friends model and left the last row or 2 in with no problems.
Clean out the bag of the wifes vaccum cleaner and suck up the lead shot as you go, it really comes of very easy and you will be amazed how much you have got when you finish.
In fact when I weighed the lead shot I got out it nearly compensated for the batteries I put in.

Hope this helps
My 310 flew like a rocket with OS 55 AX engines