Its Here!! Double Vision
#426
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From: NEW LONDON, OH,
Hi everyone,
I'm going to get going on my DV soon and have of couple questions. I'm using a Slimline pitts on the DA 50. Why does the template show the engine on an angle instead of staight down for a pitts? Also, does DA make 1 3/4" standoffs instead of using blocks of plywood to bring the needles out far enough to get to? Thanks to all for your h.lp in this thread.
Kasey
I'm going to get going on my DV soon and have of couple questions. I'm using a Slimline pitts on the DA 50. Why does the template show the engine on an angle instead of staight down for a pitts? Also, does DA make 1 3/4" standoffs instead of using blocks of plywood to bring the needles out far enough to get to? Thanks to all for your h.lp in this thread.
Kasey
#427

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From: Candler,
NC
Kassey,
I have been working on mine on and off for about two months.
I have the DA 50 straight up and down and DA makes the standoffs you need.
Just two days ago after hours of trying to iron down the covering I got so frustrated with it I ripped it all off and to my surprise what's under the covering is not bad at all. after ironing for hours the covering all pulled off in less than two hours with no heat and it did not pull any of the balsa with it. even the covering does not stick to itself as all the trim just peels right off, even after ironing. (I personally think this cheap covering does not belong on an ARF that costs $600.00 .Just my opinion. $175 of monokote is on its way.
Roy
I have been working on mine on and off for about two months.
I have the DA 50 straight up and down and DA makes the standoffs you need.
Just two days ago after hours of trying to iron down the covering I got so frustrated with it I ripped it all off and to my surprise what's under the covering is not bad at all. after ironing for hours the covering all pulled off in less than two hours with no heat and it did not pull any of the balsa with it. even the covering does not stick to itself as all the trim just peels right off, even after ironing. (I personally think this cheap covering does not belong on an ARF that costs $600.00 .Just my opinion. $175 of monokote is on its way.
Roy
#430
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From: NEW LONDON, OH,
Thanks Roy,
Did you use any spacers on the firewall to bring the engine out a little. Seems like the needle valves will be inside the cutout in the firewall.
Kasey
Did you use any spacers on the firewall to bring the engine out a little. Seems like the needle valves will be inside the cutout in the firewall.
Kasey
#431

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From: Candler,
NC
Kasey,
This picture is before I took off the covering. The tubes line up with the carb screws and guide the screwdriver to them. I cut holes in the cowl to match the tubes so I can adjust them with no problem. It took some time but it will pay off in the long run.
Roy
[img][/img]
This picture is before I took off the covering. The tubes line up with the carb screws and guide the screwdriver to them. I cut holes in the cowl to match the tubes so I can adjust them with no problem. It took some time but it will pay off in the long run.
Roy
[img][/img]
#432
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From: NEW LONDON, OH,
Hi Roy,
That looks like a good idea to me. Apparently that must be similar to what Chip did since he says to use the short standoffs and does'nt mention the spacers like some guys are using. The pictures always help too. Thanks again
Kasey
That looks like a good idea to me. Apparently that must be similar to what Chip did since he says to use the short standoffs and does'nt mention the spacers like some guys are using. The pictures always help too. Thanks again
Kasey
#433
The Slimline will come through the cowl when the engine is inverted vertcial. If you don't mind that happening, everything else works just fine.
Regards,
Eric.
Regards,
Eric.
#434
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From: Norwalk,
CA
Well after a few months of tinkering around, I finally finished my DV. I put a DA-50 up front with a carbon fiber spinner and a 22x8 prop. I am using all hitec digital servos, and lithium ion batteries. I have a 2400 for main rx power and a 1200 as backup. I took it out for the first time this morning and WOW, is it docile. I thought I had it balaced, but on a second check it was quite tail heavy. I pushed the batteries all the way up front and added a few ounced of lead the make it flyable. I had 2 very successful flights, then on the third flight, I got hit with some interference on take off. I cut the power to the engine and it came down pretty hard. The landing gear bent a little and the prop broke up. I made sure to range check the plane before flight, but after I was hit, I did another range check and I got some flutter. I am not able to explain where the flutter is coming from. I will test each servo and then try to run the antenna outside the fuse. Anyway, next week when I get a new prop and I figure out what happened, I'll leave another post. If anyone has any idea what might be causing the flutter, let me know.
#435
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From: Ashland, KY
It sounds to me that moving the batteries too close to the ignition is what the gremlin is...
I have a similar setup but using 4000 mah lions and aluminum spinner... I had to put the battery just in front of the wingtube... You may need to add some more weight in the nose and move the battery back...
Replave the spiiner with an aluminum one and save the CF for a CH Vision 3D... a plane that is actually noseheavy and will benefit from the light spinner...
I have a similar setup but using 4000 mah lions and aluminum spinner... I had to put the battery just in front of the wingtube... You may need to add some more weight in the nose and move the battery back...
Replave the spiiner with an aluminum one and save the CF for a CH Vision 3D... a plane that is actually noseheavy and will benefit from the light spinner...
#436
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From: Norwalk,
CA
Thank you so much. I think your right with the battery location. I had the batteries just in front of the wing tube and it flew with out a hitch, just a little tail heavy. Then I moved the batteries close to the nose and above the ignition and bam! I got hit. I was thinking of using longer standoffs to move the cg forward a so I wouldn't have to use so much lead in the nose. Thanks again, you saved my plane and my faith in this machine.
#437
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From: Ashland, KY
Well... don't get too excited... most likely if you got hit after putting thebattery right over the ignition... then that's almost an obvious... try your best to keep the battery, receiver, switch and servos (anything that plugs into the receiver) about 10 or more inches away from anything attached to the ignition. (Battery & switch included)
BUT there is still always an outside chance it could be other things as well... After a couple flights a muffler can come loose... ignitions come loose and clank against the motor, etc. (It's a good idea to go over EVEY screw, servos arns, clevis, etc. after the first flight and every couple flights after that for a while. It builds confidence and catches a majority of those "new plane gremlins".
Check over your whole setup... make sure the muffler bolts are tight (and that the muffler doesn't rattle in the least). Same for the ignition and anything else... make sure all screws in the gear are tight, etc... anything that could cause metal to metal.
THEN....
At the field.. do the range test with the motor running... and REALLY give it a good check... walk a full semi circle aorund the plane at least 100 ft... (33 paces or so) with the antenna DOWN. Have someone watch close for glitches. I assume you have a PPM receiver (not PCM) and that's fine, because inthis case you want to know if you have glitches of less than a second this bad... however, once I have a plane rcange checked, I'll replace my gas receivers with a PCM receiver. It's great for two things... ignoring those rare hits and going into idle throttle if you do get locked out.
BUT there is still always an outside chance it could be other things as well... After a couple flights a muffler can come loose... ignitions come loose and clank against the motor, etc. (It's a good idea to go over EVEY screw, servos arns, clevis, etc. after the first flight and every couple flights after that for a while. It builds confidence and catches a majority of those "new plane gremlins".
Check over your whole setup... make sure the muffler bolts are tight (and that the muffler doesn't rattle in the least). Same for the ignition and anything else... make sure all screws in the gear are tight, etc... anything that could cause metal to metal.
THEN....
At the field.. do the range test with the motor running... and REALLY give it a good check... walk a full semi circle aorund the plane at least 100 ft... (33 paces or so) with the antenna DOWN. Have someone watch close for glitches. I assume you have a PPM receiver (not PCM) and that's fine, because inthis case you want to know if you have glitches of less than a second this bad... however, once I have a plane rcange checked, I'll replace my gas receivers with a PCM receiver. It's great for two things... ignoring those rare hits and going into idle throttle if you do get locked out.
#438
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From: NEW LONDON, OH,
Eric, Thanks for the pic of the slimline. Looks a little different than mine. is yours a smoke muffller? J David, nice videos. What's your guys take on the length of the standoffs. Roy's looks like a good idea. Is that what you guys did? Thanks for your help. I'm sure you can tell it's my first gasser.
Kasey
Kasey
#439
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From: Norwalk,
CA
Thanks, I will make sure to go over every bolt and nut in the plane, and make sure nothing has come loose. I am using a ppm rx, but on 50mhz. I haven't seen a pcm on 50 mhz yet, or I would be using it. Do you know where I can get either fiberglass or carbon fiber landing gear for the Double Vision? I really don't like the aluminum. thanks.
#441
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From: Ashland, KY
kaseyk1...
Balance is an issue... getting the engine out as far as possible helps in that respect.
I used the 1 1/4" standoffs with 1/2" plywood discs underneath... this puts one needle just outside the firewall and the other just inside (but you can still access and adjust it from the engine side)
The method used by the others is convenient if you need to adjust your needles. I haven't felt a need to... In fact, I tried and found the factory settings perfect. This spring, I'll reset them with a new prop and fuel mix.
For me, I wanted to keep the plane balanced without outting the battery to close to the firewall and got it strapped in foam in the front of the wingtube. I like the balance where it is, which is about even with the front hatch line...
Balance is an issue... getting the engine out as far as possible helps in that respect.
I used the 1 1/4" standoffs with 1/2" plywood discs underneath... this puts one needle just outside the firewall and the other just inside (but you can still access and adjust it from the engine side)
The method used by the others is convenient if you need to adjust your needles. I haven't felt a need to... In fact, I tried and found the factory settings perfect. This spring, I'll reset them with a new prop and fuel mix.
For me, I wanted to keep the plane balanced without outting the battery to close to the firewall and got it strapped in foam in the front of the wingtube. I like the balance where it is, which is about even with the front hatch line...
#443
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From: Norwalk,
CA
Hey Roy,
thank you very much for the info......I called Troy Built and they said that the Hangar 9 Cap 232 80" landing gear matched up better so I went ahead and ordered them. It was only 40 bucks, what a deal!
If anyone out there is looking for CF wing tubes, for the DV, Gene at Troy Built Models is saying that in a bout 3 weeks they will have them and their prices are very reasonable.
Adam.
thank you very much for the info......I called Troy Built and they said that the Hangar 9 Cap 232 80" landing gear matched up better so I went ahead and ordered them. It was only 40 bucks, what a deal!
If anyone out there is looking for CF wing tubes, for the DV, Gene at Troy Built Models is saying that in a bout 3 weeks they will have them and their prices are very reasonable.
Adam.
#446
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From: Norwalk,
CA
Roy,
How long ago did you get your tubes? I talked with Gene today and he said he didn't carry the wing tubes. Maybe you spoke with someone else there. I would really like to get a pair asap. Thanks for the heads up.
Awat,
Who carries the PCM rx? I did a search on Tower and didn't see them, maybe I didn't look hard enough. Thanks for the info.
Adam.
How long ago did you get your tubes? I talked with Gene today and he said he didn't carry the wing tubes. Maybe you spoke with someone else there. I would really like to get a pair asap. Thanks for the heads up.
Awat,
Who carries the PCM rx? I did a search on Tower and didn't see them, maybe I didn't look hard enough. Thanks for the info.
Adam.
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From: NEW LONDON, OH,
Eric,
I have 1 1/4" standoffs and 3/4" wood spacers and my Slimline Pitts still hits the bottom of the firewall. The muffler is S2123 and looks a little different than yours. On the side sticking out of the cowl yours has something mine does'nt. Mine is just plain. I was wondering if yours have a smaller chamber or more of an angle. Thanks.
Kasey
I have 1 1/4" standoffs and 3/4" wood spacers and my Slimline Pitts still hits the bottom of the firewall. The muffler is S2123 and looks a little different than yours. On the side sticking out of the cowl yours has something mine does'nt. Mine is just plain. I was wondering if yours have a smaller chamber or more of an angle. Thanks.
Kasey
#450

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From: Candler,
NC
Here is mine all naked. I took some pictures so I can print them off and make photocopies then play with some different color/trim schemes. Thought you all might want to see what's underneath the covering.
Roy
Roy



