dmcmike

My Feedback: (14)

lose the y-harness on power, one of the 2100 and the batshare, unless 1 of the batts if for the ignition. Add a heavy duty switch, and some care when installing the radio. You don't want the added weight, and a single 2100 6v will give you plenty of flights.

twn

Should I y-harness the 2 elevator servos to 1 channel or drop the y-harness and use 2 channels.

Im using a 7 channel radio.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

If you Y harness the elevators, one will be reversed. If your radio is capable of mixing two channnels together (like you do for flaperons), do it that way, or use a power expander. I don't have a single Y in my set up using the Smart Fly Power Expander and mixes.

dmcmike

My Feedback: (14)

I'm using an 8 channel Futaba, and I'm thinking that I used 2 channels for the elevators, 1 rudder, 2 ailerons with a pair of y's (left side and right side). 1 for the cutoff, 1 for the throttle.... that seems to work well and I've still got an extra channel for smoke if I want it!

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

It's not nessesary, but convenient. If you're using a gas engine, the Smart Fly Power Expander Sport Plus is a smart purchase. It has a built in Batshare, Fiber optic ignition kill, and dual outputs for each channel eliminating the need for Y harnesses.

TimHendrix

Is most everyone using the spinner that comes with this kit? I'm running a Vess 22B, and it's obviously not gonna fit in the standard cut spinner. What's a good method to cut the spinner out? How about the balance after you do this?

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks,

TH

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Tim, I used the supplied spinner. I had to cut it to fit my prop also. I used a Dremel to carefully make the cuts, then I put the spinner on a magnetic type balancer to get it balanced. A little tip here: if you have to cut any spinner, cover it with tape before you start. If you are like me and not very steady with a Dremel then the tape will protect the spinner from little "slips-ups."

TimHendrix

Thanks for the info. That's what I figured. I have cut on plastic spinners, but not on aluminum. What types of Dremel bits did you use? What do you use for weight when you balance the spinner?

Thanks again,

TH

Charlie P.

I had intended on using the provided spinner but with the Pro-Zinger 20x8 props I want to use there are only four threads gripping the prop hub of the Fuji. Too little for my taste. I posted on the Fuji engine support site wondering if there was a longer bolt available and the thread was moved unanswered out into general gas engines area, so apparantly Fuji does not consider it their problem. The spinner adapter bolt "appeared" to be in the same bag as the other engine hardware but may have been packaged up by Great Planes. I guess not all of the kit is designed around the Fuji 43, at least not with Pro-Zinger Props (I tried an 18X6 I had on hand - same problem).

Looks like I have to sing another $108 into the ARF for a Tru-Turn and adapter. Rats!

That and the covering wrinkles out-of-the-box are my only two complaints with the model. Even the wrinkles would not have been so bad if they weren't over foam shapers. I had to sculpt one back into shape after needing to apply so much heat to smooth the covering that it distorted the foam!

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

I used a rotory type high speed cutter. It has spiral flutes like an end mill.
To balance it, I used small chips of lead weight mixed with silicone glue applied to the inside of the spinner after through cleaning with alcohol or acetone. Recheck the balance after you are done. This takes a little time and effort but works very well.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

You can get longer prop bolts at the hardware store. Take it to your local machine shop and have them "center drill" and tap it for your spinner bolt threads.

TimHendrix

Okay,

Thanks Again,

TH

twn

A few questions:

What prop are you using? I ordered a Pro Zinger 22*8 with my DL50. It fits in the supplied spinner with no modification. I haven't balanced either yet but I will.

Will the 22*8 allow for slow landings or is it going to pull the ultimate at a good rate with a few clicks of power?

twn

The DL50 standoffs are only 2 & 11/16" long. The manual states that the drive washer needs to be between 6 & 3/4" to 7 & 1/4." With the DL50 stock standoffs it places the drive washer at just under 6 & 3/4". Should I be worried about this?

To the people in here that use a DL50 did you just go with the DL50 stock stand offs? Or did you do something else?

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

I first used a Zinger Pro 20X10, but quickly learned that a better application for it is to stir paint. I replaced it with a Xoar 20X10 ... much gooder!!
I have not done any mods to the landing gear and that is why I stay with a 20" prop because of clearance fears. [sm=71_71.gif]
The 22x8 should be fine for your DL 50...always keep a couple clicks of throttle when landing the Ulti until you are familiar with a bipe.

bluestratos

I made hard maple strips and laminated a thing piece of aluminum to the front. The engine mounting bolts go through the stands offs, throught the maple spacer then through the firewall into the T-nuts. I think my stand offs must have been extra short as I need over 3/4" of maple to get the required Clearance.

REgards,
Randy

Charlie P.

Have to share an image. Our local mall had several clubs displaying their R/C Aircraft this past weekend. I had my in-progress Ultimate on a table. From a larger wide-angle shot of the tables in center-court I cropped out just my plane.

It wasn't until then I got this interesting image.

Drew lots of compliments from pilots and the general public. A good looking kit in any light. Especially red. She's a hottie!

codfish

Anybody have an idea wich of these two might have more power output, OS FS-200S or the YS170dz. I am considering one of these two for the GP ultimate.

greyfoxx

Say, in response to Bluestratos note on what he used as stand-offs, what is everyone using on the Ultimate for stand-offs on their weed-wacker engines? I've got a Copperhead Aviation 45CC to mount on mine and will need about 2inch standoffs to get the prop backplate within the distance Great Planes calls for in the manual. Any suggestions before I invest almost $40 for a set of stand-offs and shipping? Anyone else using the hardwood spacers, and what diameter?

Yeah I know I'm cheap, and I'm tacky too, but I have learned that, "Experience is a hard teacher. She always gives the test first, and the lesson some time later!" I've also learned that a dollar saved is like 5 in the pocket (my wife's been trying to get me to buy into that for some time now)!!!

Thanks,

Phillip

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Judging the worldwide stock market today, I would go with the fact that the only "safe" dollar is the "ONE" in your pocket.

Go to Lowe's and get the nylon standoffs that they have. They are 1" in length...stack them along with "fender" type washers against the firewall. "Worked for me"

bluestratos

The nylon works well if you can get it in one piece but stacking multiplies the vibration if a bolt comes a bit loose. I did apply a thin piece (about 1/8" aluminum to the face of the hard wood to give better wear properties and when polished it looks attractive as well. Again, nothing wrong with the nylon but I had some old maple in my shop that I ran through my mini table saw after laminating the aluminum to the face. I also used the top block to mount a plywood shelf to for mounting the battery and ignition module.

Best regards,
Randy

twn

Randy, do you have any photos of your setup? Also did you laminate the aluminum with epoxy?

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Another hint for spacers is to use "thread spools" with the thread intact soaked with thin CA. "TOUGH AS NAILS"

greyfoxx

Yes iflywhenican, I'd say you be right about the dollar in the pocket. It definately seems that one in the pocket is worth 2 in the bush, or 5 in the bank, or perhaps 15 in the stock market!! Of course, if one invest all of his hard earned $$$$ in models, there's nothing to worry about during one of these "little" turn-downs!! LOL!

The information on the stand-offs you've shared is much appreciated, and I too would like to see some photos of the wood stand-offs with aluminum washers laminated to the wood. What about 1/2 sq basswood? I picked up a piece from a nearby Hobby Lobby, and think that might take care of my problem, but might stop by Lowe's tomorrow and check out the nylon spacers as well! I really like the idea of the square wood stand-offs and how handy it would be for attaching a shelf for the batteries, etc.

"Experience is a hard teacher. She always gives the test first, and the lesson some time later!"

Phillip

bluestratos

I know I had some but I cannot locate them for some reason. looking at the fire wall, I made two pieces of hardwood about 3/4" high, wide enough to cover the mounts spread and deep enough to make up the requried extension. I then cut some oversized alum and roughed the back with course sandpaper and epoxied it onto the wood. Once dry, I placed the part on my belt sander and ground it to a nice fit, going easy to avoid getting it too hot. I then used my buffing wheel to put a high polish on alum and sealed the wood with thinned epoxy. I had already drill the wood for the bolts to pass through, so I redilled through the aluminum to complete. I used long engine mount bolts to go through the supplied engine stand offs and through the fire wall to the T-nuts. I have several dozen flights on this set up and recently removed the cowl to check everything and found all still solid. (I did use blue locktite to secure the bolts on final assembly. One thing I did remember is that I did mount the ignition under the hood, but I cut a specal access hatch on the flat area just behind the cowl and put the ignition battery in there. This keeps a solid 8" away from the radio gear and I have had no problems.