here are the measurements. All three wheels sitting on the ground and each measurement is rounded up to the nearest 1/2 inch and this is with a Pete's CF Spinner, Extra Style so it's the same as the stock spinner. Each one is at the locations widest or tallest

Cheek to cheek at the widest part (close to the front) = 10.5 inches
Top of rudder to the ground = 18.5 inches
Tip of spinner to the ground = 17 inches
Total length measuring from the bottom of the rudder at it's widest point with the rudder straight = 76.5 inches

I transport mine in a 95 Explorer. I just put the back of the passenger seat forward and there's plenty of room. First time out I had the cowl between the seats and almost got stuck by the prop. Not good!! Anyway, the cowl is 10" wide and ground to the top of the tail is 19" with the stock gear.

hey bubba, i just reinstalled my muffler, i went to the Nuts and bolt shop and bought some m5 x 15 same bolts that came with the muffler SHCS and some spring washers, and all my local car shop had was some Permatex Permanent thread locker ( Red ) so i thought this should work so i saturated the bolts and the thread and tighten them up with my allen key shifter it should work now, i tried to start the motor but my starter isnt any good it wont actually start my motor i had to borrow a mates at the field yesterday. So now i gotto by a better starter hehe man spending spending spending hehe the Mrs isnt liking this hobby very much hehehe,
so yuh i think the motor should be good to go now with out warming it up hehe lets hope so

Red thread locker and soaking it will probably make those bolts completely unremovable without breaking the flange for the muffler. Do not ask me how I know this...I ended up breaking off the muffler, drilling out the bolts and rethreading for larger bolts. Red locktite is not serviceable and is design for items that are not to be removed again

As far as starting a 160 here is what I do. For the first start of the day, open the throttle, squirt some fuel right into the carb, close the htrottle and rotate the prop a few turns to get the fuel into the cranckcase and cylinder. Now attach the glow driver and using a stick and not your fingers, bump the prop backwards against compression quickly. Compression will send the prop in the correct direction and will usually start the engine on the first flip.

It takes practice to get the flip right, but once you get it it will become like clockwork

hehe un removable will work fine with me hehe i hope it doesnt ever come off again hehe im planning to have this plane a very long time hehe
my 2 dead stick landing yestarday were a little bit hot as i didnt get time to go around again and agin to get the landing right though it seems to like to bounce a little bit, and the landing gear seams to be quite strong i was very impressed.

Bubbagates, Lou55..... thank you both for the info! The Cap fits and it's going to be ordered tonight. Again thanks!

ricomari...

Glad it fits in your present vehicle. Shame to see you purchase a new truck just to haul the CAP.

Thanks
Barry

New truck would be cheap compared to the price I'd pay to my bride! ) Naw, she's very understanding, only a few dirty looks when I ordered the Cap, engine and things needed to complete............oh, oh, just got the honey do list, got to go, can't play now ........Later )

hey bubba, just wanted to say HEY, and was wondering how ur cap is going,?? u been flying lately.? Every night during the week after work a keep cleaning it hehe its spotless but i cant help it hehe
I just purchased another plane, i couldnt help myself and a DA 50 im putting it in a Aero works Extra 260 that should be arriving just after xmas i think..
hope the build and quality is as good as the cap, well i wont be flying the cap this w.e comming because the Wife has something planned cant help bad luck, hehe
wait till i tell her i just spent another 1000 bucks HAHA i dont know how im going to to explain that HEHE

Hello ricomari,

The GP CAP 232 will be a great entry level plane to Giant Scale Gas models. For that reason any GP Performance Series model would do very well. The YAK 54 is great for all around sport flying, though a little on the fat side for serious 3D. The Yak has a much smaller cowl which is a tad tight fitting for anything bigger than a 40cc gasser. The CAP and the Yak (as well as the GP Super Chipmunk, and the Wagstaff Extra) need all the weight you can have in the nose to balance right on CG without adding extra weight. A Fuji will, provide the most weight possible. Specially the magneto ignition model. That would be detrimental on the power to weight and wing loading of the aircraft, but it will be fine for sport flying.

As far as value for the money, the new 25% Wild Hare Yak is also an excellent choice, and it can be powered with a smaller gas engine. This makes the plane a great sport flyer with anything from an OS 1.60 or Saito 1.80 on glow or a Brison 2.4 or similar gas engine. And with a DA-50 it is as hot it can get. Other possibilities are Moki/Mark 1.80 or 2.10, Saito 270/300 twin, Saito or OS radial engines, 3W28, Roto 35, Evolution 36, ZDZ-40 or 50, almost anything in that weight range will give excellent performance.

If you have the cash the QQ 73" Yak will fly beautifully with an Evolution 26 GT2. [link=http://www.somenzini.com/downloads/videos/evo73_hi.wmv]Check the video out.[/link]

I am about to finish my CAP and I am very satisfied with the finish and engineering quality that has gone into this plane production. Some of the points on the plus side are; (1) the quality of the Monokote finish is outstanding. (2) The cowl is big enough to almost completely conceal a 50cc size engine (3) the overall weight is less than 16 Lb, for a 27% plane with 1168 Sq. In. of wing area that's a very good loading. (4) The landing gear struts are built from a composite material which makes them fairly flexible and at the same time stiff enough to contend with the harshest landings, and they have a very scale sweptback with a thin airfoiled profile. The fiberglass wheel pants are finished with their respective reinforcements and 4-40 mounting blind nuts. (5) The canopy don't need to be glue in position, it fasten with four sheet metal screws. (6) All flying surfaces are hinged with Robart style hinges, and the pre-drilled holes are a perfect fit, requiring little adjustment for a very tight/gapless finish. (7) The fuse interior is quite roomy and can accommodate a smoker system if you like. (8) The harware package is very extensive and complete. It even include a nice aluminum spinner, problably a $40 to $50 dl. value)

On the minus side [&o] I only found one problem area; (1) the horizontal stab is not mounted scale like. In the full size 232 the stab seats much higher in the tail, in fact is much higher than the engine thrust line and quite forward of the rudder hinge line. That arrangement provides a shorter stab moment arm, and is instrumental in the excellent tumbling abilities of the full scale CAP. This oddity of the Cap’s in general is not a good thing for the model Cap’s. Probably due to excessive roll coupling induced by the off centered pitch axis, most model CAP's with scale stabs tend to roll during violent pitch excursions (i.e. very tight and fast loops). The problem with the lower location of the stab is that the elevators interfere with the rudder linkage when one uses the longer SWB servo arms. I had to bend the link a little to clear the elevator on the one side since I installed a single rudder servo in the tail.

My CAP is powered with an Evolution 45GX. The radio gear will consist of Hitec’s Fusion receiver with an Electro Dynamics Research EDR-111 Pow'r Bus Pro, four (4) Hitec HS-645 MG’s on ailerons and elevators, two (2) HS-425 BB on throttle and choke, and one HS- 5955 TG on rudder. Receiver power is provided by two (2) FROMECO RELION 2400mAh LiIon packs regulated by a dual power Smart-Fly SuperRegulator with Pin type Failsafe switch. Ignition power is provided by a FROMECO RELION 4800mAh battery through a FROMECO Badger Failsafe Switch and a Smart-Fly 5.2volts Ignition Regulator. All power connections are Dean’s plugs with 18 gauge wire.

Air Tech: Thanks for the loads of information and time you took to put it out here. I've been a member of RC Universe only a short time but am amazed at the wealth of information and to the extend most are willing to shared it. Folks like yourself , Bubbagates and Lou55 make RC Universe possible, again thanks!


Okay, that is one nice airplane! Not sure what most of the gear in the fuselage is , looks complicated compare to most glow models.....Funds are not an issue( I'm lying), technical knowledge is....or more like the lack of! ) I ordered the Cap232/Fuji and it should be delivered TOMORROW, I can wait to get elbow deep and start learning! Hope you guys don't mind a few more question.

That's also what makes the CAP snap. The GP Cap almost never snaps (never had mine do it) but will snap roll and 3D with the best of them. As for the weight. I just went from a OS 160 to a BCMA 40cc gasser and had no problem balancing the plane with either engine. I used the pull-pull for the 160 and put all the servos in the tail for the BCMA. Not sure why you would need or want the extra weight of a Fuji. Lots of wing loading. My BCMA weighs in at 51 ounces with ignition and muffler. You decide. The last thing you need is a lot of extra weight in a plane that is purposely built very light and handles great!!

The 43cc Fuji will still have him around 14lbs. I thought the same thing when I had it in mine but the deadstick I had showed it still floated.

Lou, how BCMA 40cc working for you hover vice, are you above or below 1/2 of the throttle? Any pics or vids?

Haven't had chance to fly it yet due to weather but the break-in looks very promising. This engine will put out 20 pounds of static thrust with a XOAR 20X8 after break-in which is two pounds more then the OS 160 with the APC 18x6W. Right now it spins an APC 18x6W at 8700rpm on a 32:1 mix for break-in. The weight is not much different at 51 ounces as I ran a on-board glo-driver on the 1.60. As soon as I can get it in the air I'll post some video. It's all together and I'm going to try and get it out today. Hope it likes cold air!!!

Got my Cap/Fuji in yesterday . This is a really nice airplane. The cowl had a crack about an inch long on the bottom side, looked like the box was dropped and a corner was accordion-ed a little right where the cowl was packed, anyway, one call to Tower Hobbies this morning and a new cowl is on the way! I did get a kill switch, after looking at the Fuji with the EI can I just use a regular RC radio switch between the battery and the engine instead of the kill switch?

Here's RC 100 I used for the BCMA. http://www.rcatsystems.com/electronics/rc100.php You just cut the red wire mid-way on a extension and solder the two red wires in-line. Then plug the extension between your EI battery and EI unit. It runs right off of your receiver and works great. Light weight and solid state. I also bought the one from Tower and left it in the box.

Weather turned nasty again so we decided to run in my 40cc in the CAP a little more. This is only the fourth tank through it. Here's the video.
http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video....e60a077b7c4b3e

Hello, getting ready to start the wing on the Cap and caught off guard with the instructions. The control horns are attached to the aileron surface with wood screws and no back plate. Has anyone had any problems with this set up? I have gone over this thread a few times and have not read mention of any concerns.....or did I miss it? Thanks............

Nope, no concerns at all. I'm well into 200 flights on mine and not a problem. Just screw the screws in, take them out, drop some thin CA into the holes and screw the screws back in.

Just an FYI folks. I now have 13 flights on mine with the new DX7 system and the DX7 is handling this plane very well. We have RF issues at the corners of our runway due to TV, Microwave and cell towers and this radio does not even flinch. Up to this point I have to use filters on everything even with dual conversion receivers because it could get bad at times but not anymore. I was using a JR2000 with a 10X previously. The only thing I wish is that the DX7 had better programming. Once you get used to having a premixes for dual elevators and rudder to elevator/aileron you kinda get spoiled

I never had a problem. Just be sure and harden the holes with some thin CA.

Lou55,
I am very impressed with the BCMA engines so far. A few friends at our club have purchased the 26cc and the 40cc versions, and they are proving to be very reliable. Most important it seems that BCMA provides excellent customer support for their products, and their prices are very competitive even against some glow engines. I feel the 40 would be an excellent choice (as you well can testify) for the CAP.

On the weight issue I am mostly speculating because I am not completlely done with mine. So far it looks like it may be a little tail heavy, but I can move my batteries up front, and may not need any additional weight after all.

I have mine mounted forward. The EI battery is in the engine box and the receiver battery is forward of the servo tray. It seems to work very well. As for the BCMAs, they are great. They just discontinued the 40cc but are coming out with a new line called BCMA-MT Pro that will offer a 42cc. They also offer a 62cc based on Zenoah castings but much lighter then the Zenoah. The 26 is still available. Adam's service is excellent and he is more then willing to go the extra mile to get you what you need for your application. When I changed my mind about putting the 40 into my Christen Eagle he custom machined stand-offs for my CAP at no cost to me. Try and get that from DA, 3W, or Fuji.

I was told at the flying field that I may need to go to a PCM radio in order to safely fly the Cap due to RF that the engine (Fuji) may put out due to the EI? Any thoughts? I have a 6ch JRSport FM......Anyone having problems with FM?

Never ever use PCM to mask an RF problem. RF never goes away on it's own and only gets worse.

I've used 2 different EI fuji's and not once did I have a problem with RF as long as you remember the 12 inch rule which you can do on this Cap