GP Cap 232
#526
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From: Port Orchard WA
I believe he's running a pull-pull system. That's the servo I told you to use for a single servo pull-pull. You'll need two 5645s or 3305s to put them in the tail. One on each side with a y-harness.
#527
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From: Idaho Falls,
ID
Sewerdude...Here's my set up.
Rudder 5945 (mounted in the tail) (one only)
Elevators 5945 (2- mounted in the tail)
Ailerons 5645 (2)
Throttle Futaba 9001, nice throttle servo, very smooth
I'm using 4.8v 1650 NiMH batteries, 1 on ignition, 1 on TX
EVO45NX with pitts muffler
NX 21x8 prop
14 channel G3 receiver
Standard, supplied spinner
16oz fuel tank
No wheel pants
Ready to fly weight less fuel 13lbs 5ozs
Wing loading 26.26 ozs
Measured thrust 19lbs 8ozs
CG = 5 7/8" no weight added
Carbon fiber pushrods
Strong points: Knife edge, waterfalls, harriers, inverted flight, flat spins, smoothness, landing
Weak points: Hard to hover
I love flying this plane. It's fun. I think I need to add a couple of degrees of upthrust. It pulls pretty badly to the wheels in turns and uplines. That is the problem I'm certain why it's hard to hover. I'm in the process of adding the upthrust for spring flying.
Thanks
Barry
#528
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From: Stockholm, SWEDEN
This thread sucks...
I'm reading about a wonderful plane, turn around and see it, waiting for it's maiden flight.
BUT, looking out of the window, what do I see? SNOW, ICE, dark clouds...[:@] maybe in two months...
OK, let's start reflex and do some practice[>:]
BTW: It was this thread and whaturi's video (not that I have these skills yet) that helped me to decide for this plane.
/Peter
I'm reading about a wonderful plane, turn around and see it, waiting for it's maiden flight.

BUT, looking out of the window, what do I see? SNOW, ICE, dark clouds...[:@] maybe in two months...
OK, let's start reflex and do some practice[>:]
BTW: It was this thread and whaturi's video (not that I have these skills yet) that helped me to decide for this plane.
/Peter
#529
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From: Port Orchard WA
Hello again Peter!! It's been a long time. Nice to hear from you again. BTW you live in Stockholm, there's always snow and ice outside, it's kinda like rain here in Washington. 




At least you have all of those beautiful Swedish women!



Hey Barry, with the single rudder servo in the tail did you have to go to a stiffer control rod to prevent flexing when it pushed the rudder, rather then pull it? What side did you install it on?





At least you have all of those beautiful Swedish women!



Hey Barry, with the single rudder servo in the tail did you have to go to a stiffer control rod to prevent flexing when it pushed the rudder, rather then pull it? What side did you install it on?
#530
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From: Idaho Falls,
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Lou55...I installed my rudder servo on the right side of the fuse. I used a 4/40 metal rod. I couldn't use a carbon fiber pushrod because I have to have a slight bend in it. That's one of my winter projects on this plane. To remount the rudder control horn to give me a bit better angle to allow a carbon pushrod. The other thing is to put a couple degrees of upthrust in my engine to allow for easier hovers and more precise up and down lines.
thanks
barry
#531
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From: Port Orchard WA
I don't seem to have the same problems except in knife edge. Mine wants to couple to the gear but I put a mix in between the rudder and elevators that gives me slight up elevator whenever I get on the rudder. Straightened it out nicely. I was really asking because I'm in the process of building a WH 84" Edge 540T and I'm planning to use the titanium 4-40 turnbuckle links from Hangar 9 for all of the control rods. Thought maybe you had used one. They make them from 1 1/2" to 5". http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdId=HAN3556 Might help you out if you could figure a way to bend them.
#535

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Lou55
All I can tell you is that when I am inverted in a 45 degree climb with a full tank and I take my hands off the stick, she just keeps right on going with lowering and raising the nose. I'm not at home right now and will not be until late Thursday night so if you want to wait until then I can measure it for you. I seem to think I'm about 1/4 to 1/2 inch behind the recommended point
I normally set all my CG's to the recommended spot the go fly, What I want is exactly what I described. Espically if the tank in on the CG or very close to it. On this plane I'm slightly tail heavy after about one half tank but it's really not that bad and really makes for great KE spins
All I can tell you is that when I am inverted in a 45 degree climb with a full tank and I take my hands off the stick, she just keeps right on going with lowering and raising the nose. I'm not at home right now and will not be until late Thursday night so if you want to wait until then I can measure it for you. I seem to think I'm about 1/4 to 1/2 inch behind the recommended point
I normally set all my CG's to the recommended spot the go fly, What I want is exactly what I described. Espically if the tank in on the CG or very close to it. On this plane I'm slightly tail heavy after about one half tank but it's really not that bad and really makes for great KE spins
#536
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I went out and got a Sullivan fuel tank no. 484 gas conversion kit and some Dubro 1/8" ID fuel line barbs No.813, just as stated in the manual.. Can I use the supplied tubes? They measure a hair under 1/8 ID. I thought thatyou needed 1/8" OD for gas engines? Correct me if I'm wrong.......... Oh yeah, got a Sullivan tail wheel backet to.
#538
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From: Port Orchard WA
You can do what I did and put small tie-wraps on the fuel lines where they slip over the tube. That will give you a little extra insurance. The one thing you don't want is to have gas leaking on anything, anywhere, ever!!! Especially in flight with the hot exhaust. There's a good reason they require you to have a fire extinguisher on hand for gas planes. I'm sure you don't want to try and land a fireball. I know I don't!![:@][:@][:@][:@][:@] Come to think of it, I don't think the balsa and monokote would last long enough to land.
#539
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From: Port Orchard WA
That would be perfect, if you don't mind. It only takes a short time to reset the CG on this bird and I can't fly until saturday, if then. I'm pretty sure it was at the recommended distance but I wasn't sure just how much I could move it back past that and still keep control on the landings. I do know that the gasser took a lot of the float out of the plane. She sets down real nice now.





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From: Port Orchard WA
Not at our field!!! LOL Take a look at the picture on page 21. All of that dirt around the runway is now covered in 4 foot high grass that's dry as a bone!! We ain't got much, but we sure got kindling and firewood!!!! Besides that, if you start a forest fire in this state, they charge you for the full expense of the damage and the cost to fight it. As soon as the club gets an "Act of God" we're going to cut the tree line back but that's what it takes here. We actually have a law that says if you cut a tree down you have to plant three more to replace it. Go figure!! I have GOT to find another state to live in.[:'(][:'(][:'(][:'(][:'(]
#545
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From: Port Orchard WA
Here's the link to the thread I started with all of the information. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_53...tm.htm#5377273
#549

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From: Jacksonville,
FL
Weak points: Hard to hover
I love flying this plane. It's fun. I think I need to add a couple of degrees of upthrust. It pulls pretty badly to the wheels in turns and uplines. That is the problem I'm certain why it's hard to hover. I'm in the process of adding the upthrust for spring flying.
Thanks
Barry
I love flying this plane. It's fun. I think I need to add a couple of degrees of upthrust. It pulls pretty badly to the wheels in turns and uplines. That is the problem I'm certain why it's hard to hover. I'm in the process of adding the upthrust for spring flying.
Thanks
Barry
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From: Jacksonville,
NC
Hey guys, hope all is well! I have gliching! I had five JR SPort125MG sevos' and all was well, had five flights on the Cap Upgraded to five Hitec 5645 and now I have gliching? I'm still usng the 4.8 1500ma JR battery and the JR SPORT reciever, all harness and extensions are heavy duty as well as the switch. I used the Aluminum servo arms that came with the 5645 then changed them to heavy duty plastics and still have the gliching? Any ideas?



