got a question............... I just purchased an assembled, new 80 cap and it came with heavy steel 1/4-20 bolts (4) holding the wing on, are these stock? can they be replaced with lighter nylon bolts?

Most definately!!! Must be kindred spirits. Anyway, I'll keep in touch and let you know how the build goes just in case you get one.

I have nylon 1/4-20's holding the wing on my Hangar 9 Mustang 60 size that does 120-130 mph. Mind you the gear is mounted in the wing as well, and sometimes I carry a payload on my special hard point that is pretty heavy. I have also carried a parachute GI Joe guy on it. The nylons seem to hold up well, got mine at Home Depot, not those cheapy plastics looking ones. I got rid of the steel ones on that with no problems.

I have a burning question....Where is the CG on the cap with the 160/pitts setup? Also how'd you get that canopy smoked like that Al....that looks better than having a pilot in it.

Just use black spray paint on the inside. Doesn't matter if it's gloss or flat primer, the result is the same.

CG?

Cowboy,
I set mine at 1/4" back from the CG listed in the instruction book. No bad habits, flys great there

My CG is right where the book calls for and it's very neutral at that point

Mine, also. And it is pretty neutral, except for carrying down elev. trim, and it being a belly-pitchin'-witch on knife edge. I'm at 11% RUDD>ELEV on both sides, and it's almost gone, but not quite. Just haven't had the time to mess with it, but carrying down elev trim, and up thrust makes me think something is outtawhack. Maybe too much up thrust, but datum is anyone's guess on this fuselage. Who knows if the firewall is perpendicular to thrust line or not?

The only problem with arf's is finding the reference points to measure everything against, since everything is already "fixed" by design.

Thanks for the info...................I would have just went ahead and found the MAC line etc anyway...I was just being reallyyyyyy lazy

NO problem, I get that was also, seems to be happening more and more the older I get

wow, I finally maidend my Cap today and I'm extremely happy. Two clicks of up is all it took to trim out. The plane flys in such a manner I was using high rates and flying pretty agressive at the end of the first flight. The plane is definately a keeper.

Cap 232
DL 50
Zoar 22-8
Hitec digitals all around

Let me tell you guys something i have found. I am on my secondcap. The first had a Fuji 43 and my new one has a DA. On both planes when you went up vertical the plane would pull hard to the left, even with right rudder. We aligned the engine by the marks on the firewall from the factory. Well we removed the Da and used a wooden dowel to fill the old bolt holes and we moved the engine to the right, from the front, a 1/4 inch. It made a huge difference. This airplane will hover without huge amounts of rudder and torque rolls easily. We had been using washers but reached a point where it got worse. Moved the engine over... and its a completely new plane.

Hope this helps someone.

COngrats! It's a pretty good build and fly....

I've been playing with several things on mine... first, per bubbagates, I added 2* of additional right thrust, and about 1* of upthrust. These changes really helped vertical lines and power on-off trim changes.

Second - I moved the CG back, even though I have the belly-pitching (10% UP elev with FULL "high rate" rudder [not 3D rate]-) and the change there let me take out the elevator trim, as expected.

This isn't a pattern airplane, by any means, and not nearly as good as a Yak for precision, but then, this plane will tumble and permit really cool, and crazy maneuvers that I wouldn't think of trying with either of those I mention.

The DL 50 with 22 x 8 is just really an outstanding package on this plane.

Hope the Sukhoi is as good on the tumble-stuff, but more precise like the Yak....

here are some pic of the switches i put in , now i had to repair them always something comming loose , always need to make it better.

i forgot one

Here's my A123 battery update...
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6228317

Hello aerobob , I had a lot problems with mine cap 232. I was using a jr 10 sxII heil radio in the cap . In my other planes I had no problems they were all nitro . so the cap was my first big gas plane, on the first flight i crashed in 20 seconds of flight i was able to get it about 3 feet from the ground when i lost sight of it too far to see it on my maiden flight , it was in two pieces when I walked up to it. I rebuilt it with much stronger support for the firewall and landing gear. On my second flight the same thing but was able to save it. So I got a new jr 9303 from the states that my friend brought to my and after that I had no problems. The only thing I could think of was using the 10sxII with a hitec receiver and a jr and a hitec crystal did not work out good with the extra long servo leads. Even with the smartfly power expander did not help the glitching . I did a ground check to 120 feet antenna down no glitching engine on or off did not mater only in the air I had problems . It is heavy plane now so I am just having a blast with it not concerned with compotation yet I will get another one from the states when I get better at flying it.

Hey all, Balsafire here.
Been away from the thread for a while due to some other projects but I've got the Cap out of moth balls(out of the rafters) and am ready to get it in the air again. I just inherited a S.T. 2300 and was considering it for the Cap but I have no history with it. What do you all think? My initial feeling is it is on the small side but I don't plan on much 3-d. I like scale type aerobatics and lots of tumbling which this bird really excells at so that's kind of my mind set. No wrong answers here, let me know what you think.

Looking forward to chatting about and flying her again.
Happy flyin' all,
Rod

T have heard on those big ST engines the tank has to be close of they won't draw fuel.

Thats no problem. I had issues with fuel draw the last go-a-round so I have a perry pump ready to go. Trust me, it draws fuel. I ran it on my BGX-1 3500 and I had a rich run at only 1 turn out. Power wise, what do you think?

Elvir again . Need some help with my cap with the Fuji 43 ,i put a bission wrap around muffler , with some mods, to make it fit lowering it about an inch . It is quiet now but down on power about 6700 rpm and I think running very hot not an issue with the stock muffler , with a power point 20 x 10 . Could not go vertical at all is the bisson muffler a problem to restrictive for gas flow ? Any thoughts.

a better pic

I could not tell but do you still have the velocity stack on the carb? If so it is going to be really close to the inside of the cowl and you will need to remove it. I would also be using a 20x8 until the engine is broken in. Mine turned a 20x8 PT model prop at around 7000 so seeing 6700 is actually pretty close

Also, the choice of prop is the other problem which is the power point prop. They are good for stirring paint and that's about all, sorry.

I would suggest just about any other prop short of an APC (way to heavy) so maybe Menz, PT Models, Mezjlik, Bolly, NX, Bambula, Belia, etc.... all in 20x8

I know about the power point prop , my sister came to Croatia a few weeks ago and brought me 6 apc 20 x 10 , i had apc 20 x 8 and had the rpm to 8000 running 98 octane and 100% syn racing oil. i did some thinking at lunch today and thought why is the engine running hot and no performance , only thing i could think of was that the bission wrap around muffler is to close to the back of the cylinder to get any air flow over the fins and getting toooooooooooooooo hot. in the states a apc 20x8 is about 110 for 6 with is about $18 in Austria it is 37 euro witch is 45 to 48 us $ for 1 apc prop,so i fly with what I have left over from the ruff landings if the open field between the sheep , until I get a chance to balance the new apc I got.