Capiche 50
#3403
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From: London, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
Well, I have a spare GWS knocking around. If Ripmax can hold my stuff for 5 weeks I will accumulate enough cash to pay for the stuff by not buying lunch at school, ever.
Well I guess I've learnt something, do regular range checks you stupid ******* and if its old and crap and doesnt work throw it away. Especially if you have an FF9 on order, and watch out for Fed-Ex charging £60 AFTER you pay for shipping.
A 1.6 kg (3.75 Lb) Capiche50 would be incredible! Its possible so if my regular Capiche is totally written off I'll get my plans and make a lighter version. On the subject of carbon U/C for the Capiche again, I know that GRP is very flexible, which sounds good to me because that means spreading out the load on a landing, But carbon is less so. Plus if a carbon U/C breaks it won't be funny, well maybe afterwards.
So even tho its only £1.91 for an upgrade, is it really worth it if I can bodge it with GRP, which may last longer and is supposed to be more flexible? I need stuff to last because if I keep spending and crashing its free flight all the way.[:-]
Well I guess I've learnt something, do regular range checks you stupid ******* and if its old and crap and doesnt work throw it away. Especially if you have an FF9 on order, and watch out for Fed-Ex charging £60 AFTER you pay for shipping.
A 1.6 kg (3.75 Lb) Capiche50 would be incredible! Its possible so if my regular Capiche is totally written off I'll get my plans and make a lighter version. On the subject of carbon U/C for the Capiche again, I know that GRP is very flexible, which sounds good to me because that means spreading out the load on a landing, But carbon is less so. Plus if a carbon U/C breaks it won't be funny, well maybe afterwards.
So even tho its only £1.91 for an upgrade, is it really worth it if I can bodge it with GRP, which may last longer and is supposed to be more flexible? I need stuff to last because if I keep spending and crashing its free flight all the way.[:-]
#3404
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From: Leatherhead, UNITED KINGDOM
My Capiche Setup:
Satio 72
3010's on all surfaces 3001 on throttle
Futaba 136f reciever 6v reciever bat
And i got a sweet colour scheme lined up for it
Should get my Capiche late next week or the week after (counting down the days). How much fuel should i put through my Satio before i start prophanging it and Archie im building my building board now what size should it be to fit the Capiche on it.
Satio 72
3010's on all surfaces 3001 on throttle
Futaba 136f reciever 6v reciever bat
And i got a sweet colour scheme lined up for it

Should get my Capiche late next week or the week after (counting down the days). How much fuel should i put through my Satio before i start prophanging it and Archie im building my building board now what size should it be to fit the Capiche on it.
#3405
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From: Bristol, UNITED KINGDOM
"Best just give the set up to Ultimate then it will be 3lbs 4ozs!! "

I fancy building another light C50, maybe with a lighter engine than the irvine 53..........

I fancy building another light C50, maybe with a lighter engine than the irvine 53..........
#3406
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From: London, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
I remember reading the test diary. Mebbe a........West .36 on pipe? Thats supposed to be crazy with a 140 mm CoG, but with a highly reduced weight it would be interesting to see what happens. I wonder about a West .50 too, which is supposed to be stupidly powerful for its size and def more than an I .53
#3407
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From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: Flying Scotsman 70
My Capiche Setup:
Satio 72
3010's on all surfaces 3001 on throttle
Futaba 136f reciever 6v reciever bat
And i got a sweet colour scheme lined up for it
Should get my Capiche late next week or the week after (counting down the days). How much fuel should i put through my Satio before i start prophanging it and Archie im building my building board now what size should it be to fit the Capiche on it.
My Capiche Setup:
Satio 72
3010's on all surfaces 3001 on throttle
Futaba 136f reciever 6v reciever bat
And i got a sweet colour scheme lined up for it

Should get my Capiche late next week or the week after (counting down the days). How much fuel should i put through my Satio before i start prophanging it and Archie im building my building board now what size should it be to fit the Capiche on it.
.
#3408
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From: CamborneCornwall, UNITED KINGDOM
i wouldn't worry with the stiff carbon UC, I've got it and it just doesn't take out the landing knock at all. you can see the shock go up the legs, and I've got 3" foam wheels!!
Cartman has 2mm spring steel that absorbs really well and when he harriers it touches and has no danger of coming back up on the rebound.
I'm tempted to put a few holes to make it bendy near the top, but without knowing what I'm doing I'm liable to weaken it too much.
Dunno what the West 50 or Irvine 53 weigh, but the JE 56 is 360 grams. being a bored out 40 it should be super light.
Cartman has 2mm spring steel that absorbs really well and when he harriers it touches and has no danger of coming back up on the rebound.
I'm tempted to put a few holes to make it bendy near the top, but without knowing what I'm doing I'm liable to weaken it too much.
Dunno what the West 50 or Irvine 53 weigh, but the JE 56 is 360 grams. being a bored out 40 it should be super light.
#3409
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From: Essex, UNITED KINGDOM
im reconing that JE 56 will be a very good budget engine for the Capiche. sounds light and powerfull. with the mini pipe it shud be great.
sprink: do you say 45mins ground running! i give all my engines about 10mins then there up in the air, were there suposed to be
sprink: do you say 45mins ground running! i give all my engines about 10mins then there up in the air, were there suposed to be
#3412
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From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
Ed: it is 30 mins running in, then 15 mins tuning the low and high end - the low end comes very rich from the factory for the running in.
Saitos are not ABC engines which dont mind running in while in the air, they deserve a bit more care.
My GRP u/c was not flexible at all, very solid in fact [&:]
Saitos are not ABC engines which dont mind running in while in the air, they deserve a bit more care.
My GRP u/c was not flexible at all, very solid in fact [&:]
#3413
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From: London, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
Goub. (?)
Yep I think I'll go with a GRP one, I am very crap with resources, I don't have a razor plane or hand saw or anything to cut ply etc so a wire steel U/C would be out of the question though I know what you mean. I've used those two leg soldered ones on some ARTFs and they do the trick.
So GRP it is, though carbon cowl and all other bits would save precious weight, couple that to an Ultimate Capiche50 and its silly.
[sm=bananahead.gif]
By the way, what does BARF mean? Bad almost ready to fly? Barely almost ready to fly? Barf as in vomit?
Thanks.
Yep I think I'll go with a GRP one, I am very crap with resources, I don't have a razor plane or hand saw or anything to cut ply etc so a wire steel U/C would be out of the question though I know what you mean. I've used those two leg soldered ones on some ARTFs and they do the trick.
So GRP it is, though carbon cowl and all other bits would save precious weight, couple that to an Ultimate Capiche50 and its silly.
[sm=bananahead.gif]
By the way, what does BARF mean? Bad almost ready to fly? Barely almost ready to fly? Barf as in vomit?
Thanks.
#3415
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From: CamborneCornwall, UNITED KINGDOM
i doubt the carbon stuff is that much lighter. everyone thinks carbon cloth is miles lighter but it's infact stronger, so you need less, thats where the main weight saving comes from ( that and less material = less epoxy ) , so, you can be lighter for the same strength, or stronger for the same weight.
either way with the Capiche UC i would replace the lower stringers with bass wood, or better still forget the larger 3rd layer on the ply plate and the balsa floor, go for full length ply base with lighting holes as per balsa parts. small weight penalty, big strength gain.
with a full length ply plate you could toy with torsion bar UC which would give ultimate damping, work's a treat on my Bug

the black parts are wire clamps which hold the rear of the two wires to the wheels, the horizontal part is about 3" and the end is bent into the engine mount. this allows the UC to bend outwards under strain.
West 50 run in....
Start engine on factory settings. run thought the range to make sure it doesn't cut.
refuel after about 1mins running, start again, get airborne. worked for me.
The West 36 was flown from the very first flick, infact first job was a prophang
either way with the Capiche UC i would replace the lower stringers with bass wood, or better still forget the larger 3rd layer on the ply plate and the balsa floor, go for full length ply base with lighting holes as per balsa parts. small weight penalty, big strength gain.
with a full length ply plate you could toy with torsion bar UC which would give ultimate damping, work's a treat on my Bug

the black parts are wire clamps which hold the rear of the two wires to the wheels, the horizontal part is about 3" and the end is bent into the engine mount. this allows the UC to bend outwards under strain.
West 50 run in....
Start engine on factory settings. run thought the range to make sure it doesn't cut.
refuel after about 1mins running, start again, get airborne. worked for me.
The West 36 was flown from the very first flick, infact first job was a prophang
#3416
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From: o, UNITED KINGDOM
How about bass longerons in first bay. Then balsa to the back?? That would give hard wood to lite ply with little in the way of mods?
Land light is best option. Mine is 18months old now and still in one piece
or adopt the 7 "P" philosophy

Piss poor preparation. Precedes piss poor performance
Land light is best option. Mine is 18months old now and still in one piece

or adopt the 7 "P" philosophy


Piss poor preparation. Precedes piss poor performance
#3417
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From: CamborneCornwall, UNITED KINGDOM
i think bass all the way from firewall to wing seat would be fine, just a small wood change during the build, not as much hassle as making a whole 1/8th ply plate. for me that was just easier as it was after i built it.
my landing was light but the grass length proved too much, last time it broke it was almost exactly the same place.
what i saw when it snapped was 6 tiny bits of liteply going in different directions ( formers ) and soft balsa longerons. these trying to stand up to a force of a 5lbs plane trying to stop dead from 10mph 6" away was too much for this area.
Bass would spread the loads into all the liteply and solve the twist problem, a ply plate would be the bulletproof solution for rough fields and unsure landings.
like i said above, i do recognize everyone else harrier lands all day long no problems if they get it right. Cartman can, but long grass and sudden stops don't work.
my landing was light but the grass length proved too much, last time it broke it was almost exactly the same place.
what i saw when it snapped was 6 tiny bits of liteply going in different directions ( formers ) and soft balsa longerons. these trying to stand up to a force of a 5lbs plane trying to stop dead from 10mph 6" away was too much for this area.
Bass would spread the loads into all the liteply and solve the twist problem, a ply plate would be the bulletproof solution for rough fields and unsure landings.
like i said above, i do recognize everyone else harrier lands all day long no problems if they get it right. Cartman can, but long grass and sudden stops don't work.
#3418
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From: Essex, UNITED KINGDOM
Sprink: i thought saitos are ABNs which allot of the old OSs were. never mind. Ive got two CC UCs and all i can say is im less than impressed. i havent tried GRP so i can comment. ive only had the GRP cowl and it uses random weve not proper cloth. Dont ridicule me for saying this.........
#3419
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From: Bristol, UNITED KINGDOM
the carbon u/c for the capiche is very strong, I walloped mine on several occasions with no damage.
The best thing to do is take a hack saw to it and trim off say 5 to 10mm from the front edge and save an ounce. It will be a little bit more springy too. Ive done it to my Hype carbon U/C and to another model with carbon U/C with no problems.
Just be carefull cutting and sanding carbon the dust isnt good for your lungs[
]
The best thing to do is take a hack saw to it and trim off say 5 to 10mm from the front edge and save an ounce. It will be a little bit more springy too. Ive done it to my Hype carbon U/C and to another model with carbon U/C with no problems.
Just be carefull cutting and sanding carbon the dust isnt good for your lungs[
]
#3420
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From: CamborneCornwall, UNITED KINGDOM
i'd say it's strong...
i landed on my side when the wing departed, fuz totaled, pipe dented, and all the UC got from this side on impact is a bent axle and a crack near the top. way too strong for a plane of this weight, maybe they took a look at the size not weight lol
i landed on my side when the wing departed, fuz totaled, pipe dented, and all the UC got from this side on impact is a bent axle and a crack near the top. way too strong for a plane of this weight, maybe they took a look at the size not weight lol
#3422
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From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
Saitos are AAC (well most are). They are also ringed. With a 4 stroke the moving bits dont get the lube that two strokes do as the fuel goes in and out the top, rather than through the crank case. Half the run in process is to get oil to all the bits needing it before you start to stress it.
#3425
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From: CamborneCornwall, UNITED KINGDOM
ringed piston have a ring, theres no real compression till it gets going. best bit is long life
non ringed use tight tollerances and heat to make a good fit, better power but shorter life
non ringed use tight tollerances and heat to make a good fit, better power but shorter life


