3004 is similar to 3001... its basically a ball raced 3003 !

Theres a whole bunch in the same category, one will br dropped Im sure at least, if not two.

In order of cost/quality they go from cheapest to most expensive as

3003 -> 148 -> 3004 -> 3001.

I would anticipate that the 3003 and the 3004 will be the long runners.

3004 packs more punch at 6V and is rated for it... not sure if 3001 officially is.

Anyway !

Got prepared to go flying for the first time in months today and whilst the wind has dropped the rain is here ... bugga

same here, but Sophies back tonight so i better clean up the room a little..

i thought the 3001 was a ballraced 3003, umm the 3004 sounds interesting. my Capiche is currently on 4.8V, but only because i cant find a 1850Mah cell to match my pack, guess i'll have to bite the bullet and get a decent 6v pack sometime. it's the easiest way to get the 591's up to 3003 speed for the time being.

strange how the 3003 is meant to be the 148's replacement ( all robot built rather than some done by hand on the 148 as i understood it ) but the 148 is still considered the better servo. guess that have such a good reputation, i've got prehistoric ones that are still up for the task.

My capishe has 5 x Futaba 3004. on 6v (i think they were about £6.95 each) Hundreds of flights of extreme abuse (inc. massive elevator flutter twice when the elevator joiner worked loose) and its still A OK. you do not need bigger servos on this plane (i have an irvine 53 screaming its Boll~#ks off)

if i swapped the 3004 servos for digitals the only thing i would notice would be the plane being 2.5 oz heavier. they do not blow back or slow down at all

Dave

I wll be using the 3010s. I have used the 3004s in my limbo dancer and my cougar. I agree dave, thy are very good but id like to go 'up market' (only a wee bit tho). I will be using my usual 6v 1650 mah nimh for power through my normal heavy duty JR switch.

how long have they been out? i've never heard of them before. £7 for a ballraced servo is damn cheap, esp if it's better suited to 6v over the 3001

I use a 6v 600ma battery (the 3004s dont draw much) and i prefer to carry the big 12v battery around and dump it on the floor rather than carry extra weight, fast charging every 2 flights

be carefull of some of the high capacity cells (normaly HMH) as they sometimes drop there voltage under load giving you the feeling that your servos are flattening out.

Dave

i did not think they were ballraced? if they are they are light ballraces.

Its direct drive, hence the price in my theory. They will were out allot quicker the the indirect 148s &3001s

ok i still don't get this direct, indirect drive stuff. the motor drives a few cogs till it reaches the output, whats indirect about that? in which case i've never seen a direct drive servo with the output on the motor it's self.

i've got two hydride battery's in my planes, the Pheonix has a Overlander 1400 one, and if you leave it for a week you have to put 1000mAh in there just to fill it up, the Ripmax 1850 in the Capiche seams to hold it's charge and not go flat quicker than expected.
What amazes me is when i first started out i had a 5 servo funfly, i'd fly all day without charging on a 800Mah pack, a friend too on his plane. but we never had a flat batt problem, these days now we have checkers we peak before going out, and sometimes do again during the day!

sames true with the cars, 1200 packs were the order of the day back then and we lasted 5 mins easy with cars very much less efficient than todays tourers. weird..

Hers wot the difference beteween direct and indirect servos are. Trust me on this, ive taken both types apart. I donk know how they work but the direct burn out quicker
Sorry for the s**t diagram, its the best i could do lol
Ian

Ian.
I don't think that I've heard of a direct drive servo either[&o] Your diagram looks like the output gear is directly linked to the motor? What do the gears do then?? I think that the output gear is free running on that shaft, but is driven by the rest of the gear train.
Might be wrong, if so I apologise in advance.

Ian.

i think you are missing the point edible, in one of your drawings the gears are there just to add weight as they do nothing. im not sure about this but i would imagine that the term direct and indirect refer to the feedback potentiometer.

Ill take some photos tommorow.

Im sure this is how i saw it. meby the motor and output shaft are inline but not connected. Im not sure. Will take some photos tho.

Eddy glad to see your getting on well with your kit.Now you can dish out advice from actual experience of building the c 50 and silence the critics!! The Boy and Matrix are right in that sometimes the output gear of a servo is on top of the motor shaft, but this is done just coz that makes a good strong pivot point( its not locked to the motor but driven through the gears at a different speed).the potentiometer input shaft is much larger than the motors and when viewed from the top maybe you mistook it for the motors.I've taken quite a few servos to bits to reverse direction and replace gears and havent seen a direct motor to output drive,ever. Can you imagine the size of motor that would be needed! Just my penny's worth though.

Hmm, I always thought that the 3003 has no ball races, the 148 and 3004, has one each, and the 3001 has two. I also thought that the 3003, 148 and 3001, were basically the same servo apart from the number of ball races. The 3004 was completely new and designed to be lighter than the others, which it is by about 10g from memory.

Anyway, the more important stuff:

Went flying in all the murk this morning, had three excellent flights with the capiche. With the very low cloud (about 200ft at a guess) had to stick to low level manouvers. Ended up practising harriers. Starting to look really good. HAve now got the hang of the transition from elevator to harrier, and then was doing harrier circuits and figure eights. Lined up for a harrier landing, but bottled it at about 4 feet. Really needed a bit more wind I think to help slow it down further.

My Capiche does rock its wings some of the time, but I have found that the best cure is to ignor it, and it usually settles down again. Trying to counter it with aileron inputs either makes no difference or makes it worse. It doesnt rock more than about 20 degrees each way. Opening up the throttle one or two clicks, and letting off the elevator a tiny amount seems to help as well.

Have to say I am a very Happy Bunny after that flight . Soon I'll try inverted, but from the brief goes I have done so far I think I may need a bit more elevator.

of topic i know but thisis the first pic of my flying. It is a inverted pass about 2 inch from the ground. Im not lying there cos as soon as the camera beeped i heard a scrape along the ground then i hit a lump of truf () and i broke a prop. lol. The camera man couldent find the zoom so its a bit small.

so it's infact an inverted landing.... the pic was just taken at the right time
i suck inverted, i really hate it. i did quite well with a old funfly, scraping the tail along the ground was pretty easy one calm day. I sometimes get lowish with the Cougar but i just don't like it. Low beat ups with the Shrike or in the old days, Mustang are great fun tho. If i'm lucky i can even get my Dust in ground effect at 140mph and it just sits there 3-4" off the deck for the entire field lenght.

Theres pics of My Capiche on the Flycapiche website, thats about as low as i go inverted and KE normally

Twas a landing. I m only comfteble inverted with my flip. Though my greatetest fear is to come down steep (i love to do that) and push out low and slip on the stick so i crash. Well, its not my greatest fear but i dont like th ethought.

Glad you are liking that capiche Sprink. Your account of harriering is bang on. I found that i had to hold a bit of right aileron in all the time. I also noticed that the model's angle of attack was very sensitive to throttle. Like the heli boys I am considering changing the gimbal on my throttle stick so that it slides rather than clicks.

for edible: Dunno if i posted these already, but heres me harriering my capiche and my flair cub playing knife edge chicken with a reservoir.

Luke.
Love the pic of the Cub
I changed my throttle stick to "smooth" when I started flying helis. It DOES make a difference with Fixed Wing as well, especially prop hanging & slow flying etc. Works for me.

Ian.

i agree. my rtchet has worn down now and i find it allot easyer to do things which require carefull throttle.

Sheeting done now, gotta do sanding and outher bits and pices includingthre blocks at the back and ill be finished with the fuz[&:]

Ian that pic is a bit crap to be honnest lol you could at least get it closer its low enough why did you just get the one picture for?you could have got a few in the one flight...
I had ago on phils capiche and its flys lovely was thinking of getting one a bit later...I may take my YS 63 out of my cap and maybe get a capiche later and stick that in...
anyway again of topic but just one picture to post...Its me prophanging a mates magic...

Dean

15 1/2 oz as you see it. Is that good

Edible, you finally got a c50[sm=sunsmiley.gif]
IMHO S3010s are good (ive got them and tho i havent flown yet)
i got a Futaba SD 200 mini for the throttle. very light, fast, powerful, only 14 quid

Just got back from hols, at last time to build again

dunno about weightr, my fuzz is 300g w/ uc but my scales arent that good and i dunno how 2 convurt 2 imperiel.
Is that low pass ur flip3d?

If you are not comfortable flying inverted, you need to practise. Go back to your beginner days, but do it inverted. ie circuits in both directions and figure eights. As you get more comfortable you can lower the altitude.