Jack great checks!! I always had a loaded voltmeter, But because of checking
and it showed good, I started by just using the amount of flights... Well many
months went by and one day I was making my last flight(7th) and I did not
check it... Now I can't say it really was the battery or me holding the stunt to
long and not having enough time for clean air on the surfaces... But any case
it went in I damaged the nose but all in all not bad and it was easy to fix.. But
from that day.. I always check my batteries before a flight, even when I take them
off of the over nite charge and head to the field I check them... If I can help it
batteries will not be the cause of a problem...

We do take alot for granted at times.. And as you said most would be prevented
by Home and preflight checks and it really does not take that long... And your
overall outting will be much better...

just thought id show you guys my new flying field and i got the key[X(]
my son shot these in low resilution so they wont go big[&o]

gjeffers

nice new place

far from your old sight?

38

all the way across town(6 miles) 3 miles closer

Gary... Now that's a runway.... Man, I thought your town was only two miles wide

Well, I will maiden the UCD tommorow. Held off on putting on the belly pan until last.
With exception of the cowl because I want to get the motor running good before I put
it on. Not to mention I'm dreading it. I am not too fond of the way the belly pan is put
on but its on there. I need to do some touch up monokote work but it will turn out fine
for that. Will post a flight report. I have to maiden my brother in laws trainer he is getting
for xmas from his dad so two maidens in one day...wish me luck!!

Lots of good safety suggestions guys.

I think i'm going to print some of the posts and pass them around at out next club meeting for the other members.

sdcranford - Let us know how the maiden goes,,,,,, Good Luck !!

WoW Gary! Nice runway! [X(] It looks like one of the space shuttle runways....[X(] That's it! I'm moving to California....[8D]
Jack, Thanks for all the safety stuff. Ya can't be too cautious out there. Especially if you fly alone and you right, most of the times planes are crashed is due to people not checking their set up, (low batteries, controls going the wrong direction, etc.) And then there's always the dreaded "dumb thumbs" affliction. [&o]

Okay, I promised some pix of skiis for planes. The pix include: 1) two 13" x 3" white skiis [on the UCD 60, heaviest plane I have], made from a plastic bucket side, then straightened and bent again using a butane torch; the pic includes a Dubro ski and another I made from some special PVC we got last year, gray; 2) skiis, cut from the blue TOP of a drywall goop bucket. This bird is light so didn't require much length or breadth to support the plane; 3) two of the PVC skiis, one not yet put on the front wheel of a tricycle Dart. I used it for the Big Stik, too.

The skiis are attached to the gear with a simple aluminum angle iron available at most hardware stores. The angle irons are secured with rivets. The rivet gun and rivets are reasonably cheap, too. Drill a hole through the aluminum and PVC to match the rivet diameter, install the rivet and squeeze. Easy--and MUCH cheaper than the Dubro equivalents.

Nice thing about the Dubros are the springs which keep the nose of the ski up in flight. WE use rubber bands--standard. You can see where I drilled holes to accept a small dia wire, then put the band through it, voila.

THIS year, though, I've attached skiis on the Twist and UCD 60 with toothed washers so they won't move at ALL. I'm thinking that will work fine. The alternative is always trying to get them to look right, symetrical angles, in flight. And you only need a very little "up" in the tip so the ski doesn't dig in and upsot the plane.

Deciding on the width and breadth is a function of the type of snow you fly on, obviously, but the samples in the picture serve me in all conditions of snow, though in DEEP new snow you tend to throw it around with the prop. Fun!

Well maidened the UCD. This .46 with a ST .45 and a 11.5x4 prop took off in no time
at all. Mine balanced at about 6in from the leading edge and I simply couldnt get it to
fly level. I didnt try much except for flipping the high rates on and doing a loop, whoa
the prop almost hit the tail.

I landed it perfectly on our paved runway with no bounce. Took a few times around because
it either wanted to climb or dive. Simply could not trim it for level flight. So I will
add some nose weight to make the c.g between their recommended range. The addendum
to the manual said 4 - 6" from the leading edge.

But its home in one piece, will get that changed and go out again maybe later this week,
it was a little cold today with a good 10 - 15 mph wind.

SDCRANFORD - Well, it sounds like overall, you had a good maiden flight.

Here's what I do when setting up a plane's CG at first. I usually move weight around internally, until when flying inverted you need very little, if any, down elevator to maintain level flight. Once this is achieved, I move weight back (usually the battery pack) to where I feel is the best for my flying style, comfort level, etc. I wouldn't add any weight unless you really have to.

Some of the other guys may have other suggestions but thats how I do it.

Also, it has been my experience that trimming out a plane in a no wind situation is the best for me. I have found it almost impossible to trim a new plane in winds over 5 MPH or so.

I hope this helps,,,

Yeah I thought about the wind factor, I had a hole in the fuel tank...checked it before
put it in but must have bumped it when finishing up. Will have to order a new one
tommorow. Anyway, Since I have the fuel tank out I will move the battery into the
fuel tank compartment. It was a good maiden, couldnt seem to get this floater back
to the ground. When I came in on approach it would just float, finally got it down for
a nice beautiful 3 point landing!!!

Will move the battery forward when I put the new tank in and see how she does.

A CG question. I am assembling my new UCD 46. I am about to install the Saito 82. The book calls for the face of the spinner back plate to be 5" in front of the firewall. Can some of you experienced folks predict where my CG will be if I follow those specs? I realize that the original spec for the CG was at 4 3/4" and that now the spec is 4" - 6" Since I am not an experienced 3D pilot, I am thinking that I want my CG to be closer to the front for my maiden. I will listen to any comments that you may have, but I think I would like to start at about 4 1/2" or 4 3/4" Since engine placement is the biggest adjustable thing I can do. So should I put the engine at 5" as the book suggests? Any comments greatly appreciated. Jim Tucker

O.K. you UCDers ... I've got a deal that can't be resisted. Due to a b-day gift and my own purchase of a UCD 46, I now have two and only want one. I've been wanting a classic such as a Kaos. So the deal is - If someone will purchase a KAOS ARF 40 from Tower and have it delivered to me, I will in turn send you a brand new UCD 46. I've opened the box and it is beautiful and in perfect shape. Great Deal! Any takers - please email me at [email protected] and we can work out the details. I'll take the first offer.

patnjimtucker
You are pretty limited as to engine placement with stock mount and Saito 82. if engine is at 5", it barely clears back part of mount (I had to cut ears off). and it almost hangs off front of mount. Use you battery to change CG around. 5"to 5.5" is a good starting place. It flies good anywhere in that range. Don't go to 6" unless you like tail first landings. You'll love it.

Doug

P.S. I'm a new 3d'er also and it is just plain fun to fly. Landings are so easy.

Doug is right on PatnJim, you will have to use your battery to adjust cg
and if your just a average pilot and not a 3d pilot you really dont need to go 4.5 on your cg, like doug said 5 to 5.5 will fly really great!!

Thanks Dougwill and gjeffers. After I sent my request I started to realize that I did not have a lot of flexability as to where I put the engine, because of the cowl. I am currenly flying a Twist, and on that plane you have lots of room to move engine around to accomodate almost any CG you may wish. So I will follow the specs and use battery to get to about 5". Thank you. Jim Tucker I know that my bio says I am from Canada, but we are vacationing in Florida for a few months, so my winter flying season is in full bloom. Hope to have the UCD in the air in a few weeks.

i have the os 70 surpass in my ucando 46, and a digital mg servo on the rudder, the os is 5 oz. heavier than the saito, the mg servo in the tail is 2.11 oz. w/ the battery all the way forward, i got the cg to 4 3/4". you'll be around 5" w/your engine, that should be a good placement.
jon b

gjeffers [8D]
That runway looks like a road to me. You got it made right now. It is 20 degrees and snowy here in Ohio. Need to get me a winter job out there. Is there any work out there? UCD is hanging in garage looking really sad. Anybody heard from Barry?
Time to get the hanger stocked up for spring. Would like to get another UCD just in case. I 've flown 20 flights on lower rates and its time to put the bigger servo arms on and crank up the throws so I can do thse low inverted passes. My knife edges need more throw on rudder .

Doug

Doug, look real close at the background and i think you will see hangars, its a 6000ft runway

Yeah! That's gotta be an auxilliary space shuttle landing strip.........[X(]
Have you flown your Edge yet Gary?

Just getting ready to make the cuts in the cowl for my UCD with 82 Saito. It looks like the instructions call for a hole for the exhaust pipe, which would require me to remover the muffler/tail pipe evertime I remove the cowl. Do most people just put a slot there instead so you do not have to disturb the muffler to remove the cowl? Thanks Jim Tucker

Hey Jim, I just made a hole for mine and I do have to unscrew the pipe to remove the cowl but I also have to take off the nut for the fueling connection so it's not a big deal. I wouldn't put a slot there since it would weaken the cowl somewhat.......

patnjimtucker.... I got my "Do" used so all the cuts were made, It was not the
best but I would cut out a slot again... I use lines and plugs for the fuel(less
weight and no added problems) So having the slot for the muffler pipe is a big
plus for me.... Plus I really hate R&Ring anything if I don't really have to...
More so on engine parts... Of course with the S-100 in there, I now do not use
the cowl, but when I did I had no problems with it.... Easy to R&R and it stayed
on great!!

I received my Can Do .46 yesterday--and it is the second worst put-together ARF I've ever had (Lanier's Dart takes first in that regard, pitiful): 1) I spent an hour trying to get all the wrinkles out of the UCD's monokote, no good, left those tell-tale, however narrow, wrinkles. Virtually every surface, especially the LE of the wing, cCAN'T be tightened, smoothed--and I know how to do that, built many a plane; 2) the two-bolt saddle, receiver, for the wing is OBVIOUSLY out of kilter with the fuse (that was a return-no return issue for me--if the wing was out of kilter, too. It wasn't!?); 3) the ribs for the top of the fuse do NOT fit into their three-sided holes on the former. There has to be 3/32" of space there, so the ribs are only contacted on two sides. Bummer; 4) the fuel tank wouldn't fit into the fuse until I took about 3/32nds off the upper cross support--which weakens the whole foreward end; 5) the forward pivot, dowel, for the wing wouldn't fit the fuse until I sanded the dowel down--quite a bit.

Did you guys find these production problems for the UCD .46? For $!50, that's a really poorly produced ARF. All my Hangar 9 Twists ($99), even Tower's Uproars ($89) have been near perfect. What gives with Great Planes?

I called Great Planes to complain. Naturally, they said they would replace the bird IF I returned it. I have to FLY it Saturday. And it will be a bird I shall not be proud of.

GP recommends 50 oz/in torque servos. Futaba S3004's are 44 oz/in. I'll use those, because I have them. Need I worry? They also recommend a servo reverser, expensive, for the elevator servos, but if you just turn one servo around, they work in the same direction. I did that with my UCD .60 and had no trouble. Is GP just trying to get our money, or is there very good reason for all the expensive hardware?

Very pissed,

Jack