no Ron there everyones prices, i got 5 more dollars off for being a member, and if you notice at the top of the page there is free shipping for any order over 100 dollars.

gjeffers...

Nice looking website. The prices do look excellent. Are you saying you got another 46 coming? I hope so. My all time favorite airplane. I didn't get to maiden the Giant today. After I broke in the engine I got busy at work and just didn't get the time. I'm setting aside a couple hours in the morning...early.

This Saturday I hope to get all three "Dos" to the field for a family picture. I figure I better get it early before I don't have all three anymore.

Are you enjoying your Monster? I keep thinking I want a bibe for some reason. But I'm probably in never never land. I've been looking a little bit at that new Skybolt from GP. It looks my size and would probably be my kinda flying. But then I look at the Hawk and think, "I sure like the looks of that beast" but I know I wouldn't fly it much so I'm not sure what I'm gonna do.

Probably be better if I just quit buying for a while and start flying. But I so enjoy putting a new plane together. I get about as much kick out of that as I do a blender. But not quite.

Thanks
Barry

My OS 160 ran up to the low-mid 9k's with APC 18X6. The APC's are thinner airfoil & less chord plus the curvature at the tips must be more efficient than the Zingers. I discovered that my Saito 150 was swinging an APC 17X6 1K more RPM than Zinger 17X5 wood-go figure?! I would think it would be the same with a 2-strk. You are right about the break-in too,it will take some time for it to open up & lean out. I just remembered,another guy at my field had MA 18x6 Fiberglass Classic on his OS160-was running almost 10K with that paint stick! The tips were going super-sonic,made a racket you could here a mile away. Another go figure?!

yes Barry, i ordered one, couldnt pass it up for 124 dollars and no sales tax or shipping, what a deal
ill be putting my 125 in my edge[X(]what power itll have with a 15x8 and im taking my 100[X(] thats right and rebuilding my 46 to the same specs, i cant wait
and i really do love my monster, it flys really great and does a nice knife and a inverted flatspin that rivals that of any ive saw(just falls like a rock[:-])
hope ya get to maiden today[8D]

Hey Gary, 124.oo is a great deal on one of the best planes there is. I've been flying mine more lately and having a blast with it. [X(] I'm even getting better with the inverted flying Gary. Gotta get a low fly-by soon.

Did the maiden today...

I'm at least slightly disappointed. But first the good news.

I took off in good conditions and did absolutely no trimming. I couldn't believe it. I flew hands off trying to see what trims it needed and nothing. Flew very nice. I kept it on low rates and did some very tight loops and some inverted fly bys. (up high of course) And attempted a hover or too. There's the disappointment. This bird wants to hover but I just can't quite hold it. Not enough power. Maybe I have the wrong prop or maybe need a little more break in. Anyways, I'm gonna work on that a bit. Also, the plane just didn't seem to "go" when you hit the throttle. It gets louder and starts moving, but not that "lunge" type instant throttle response I'm used to with the mighty 110.

Anyways, I flew about 5-6 minutes and saw something odd. So I landed. What I found was a droopy left flat. The servo gear broke right below the servo arm. Just broke clean off. Dang Hitec servos (HS5475 with karbonite gears) They are failing all the time. Counting this failure my total is up to one. Any ways, that cut my day short.

My local hobby shop had that servo. I replaced it already and will try again tomorrow. I hope this is just a fluke and these servos aren't gonna be cumbersome. This is the first plane I've used the 5475s. I only have them on the wing.

Anyways, I'll try again tomorrow.

Thanks.

Barry

gjeffers...

Glad you're getting another 46. You can't go wrong with that airplane. In fact, I want to get mine out. I'm gonna take all three to the field on Saturday. You know...just for pictures.

Thanks
Barry

Just thinking...

Who has ideas for more power on this plane, if I decide I need it? Suggestion?

Thanks
Barry

Barry.. Great that you maiden her safely... The bugs will work out!! Keep us updated...
Maybe the engine just needs more break-in/different props??.... I don't think those
Gaint planes are suppose to "lunge" forward???? But without going to gas .....
Guess those "Big" daddy YS's 140/160:-)) I seen a Mokie 210<sp> in the 25% G.P.
Yak which is about the same size/weight.. And she flew it real nice..... Saito 180...

Gary..... Thats is a Great price!!..... Mine was a around that, ofcourse I had to wait a
few months before I got my wing money.... But it did come with two wings... And one
already has a small hole init..... But yours will be without radio glitches, If it's not
one thing.......... Yeah, I added the site to my fav's... Just in case I get some $$$$$$
They do have great prices....

The "Do's" charging for the am.... The S.T.'s on the repair bench, awaiting glue....

Barry, sorry to hear your not so happy with the 1.60[&o]
If you decide to change engines and want to stay with glow, I would suggest either the Moki 1.80 or 2.10 for two stroke. If you want to go with a four stroke I think the Saito 2.20 would be the only choice but for about the cost as the big Saito you could have a real nice gasser for it and spend much less on fuel

Barry, Glad you got the big plane in the air and got some time with it. [8D] Rtn9105 said about the same thing I was going to say. A Saito 220 would work but since you'll be using more fuel with it and the higher % fuels at that maybe a gas engine would be a good bet.

Barry....Opps Forgot that was a 2c........ Don't think the Saito 220 will be much different, The
bigger Moki may do it...... But I think best is "intro" to Gas
Hey just, let her break in, different props, for the Hover........ Then just Low and Slow

I've had a UCD .46 new in the box for two years now, waiting to get my "sticks" steady. I've been flying the UCD EP (foamie) on a Himax brushless electric for fun lately (too much flex in flight for me, but it has been fun! And a 3-cell 1350 mAh Li-Po keeps it in the sky for 20 minutes! I'm spoiled!) and have a Sig Four Star 40, a Hanger 9 Alpha and a Seagull 300S under my belt for powered flight and started out flying gliders. I started on a Gentle Lady and moved on to a 108" Wind Drifter and a nice Japanese 2-M mid-wing slope glider before moving on to powered flight. I have spent more than a few hours flying in Realflight G2 as well. I think I'm ready for 3D!
Ok, now I feel confident enough that I have started building up the UCD .46! I bought the OS Max .50 SX when I purchased the plane thinking that 1.8 bhp would be plenty, considering the light weight of the motor and power to weight ratios. I have been searching the threads, without any luck, for ANYONE else who has used this combination, much less has anything to say about it. Everyone seems to have gone 4-stroke and I am "high and dry" on 4-strokes. I do have a new OS Max .61 (for a vintage SIG Cessna 150 kit I have) but I assumed that it would be too much 2-stroke for the UCD, with-out mods at least. Has anyone tried the OS Max .50 SX on this plane?
I also have seen more than a few UCD .46's that have been fitted with tail wires. Is this something I need to worry about. I was aware that this was not a pylon racer and would never want to flutter myself to the ground so I am not interested in speed. What will wires do for me besides added strength and weight in the tail? (as for flutter, I would think that there is enough gap between the control surfaces to cause flutter anyway, wires wouldn't stop this, right?)
I noticed too, that the stock landing gear has caused more than a few problems. I wondered about this myself even before reading the threads about it. As I mounted the gear onto my UCD, I thought, "Geez, those are dinky little cap screws to be holding on this gear!" I reached for the threadlock (surprised it didn't mention it in the manual) and proceeded. (actually, I put threadlock on every screw in the plane that has a backing nut!) Did this make a difference to anyone or should I plan on beefing up the gear area still. I read that some glassing was done on some and epoxy reinforcement on others. I am not clear if they were strengthening the fuse or if they were actually glassing/epoxying the gear onto the plane as well as using the "dinky" cap screws. Any suggestions to keep my gear on?
I can't wait to join the ranks of you guys who fly this plane! It's been a long two years, casting those long dreamy glances at the virgin box that contained the unbuilt UCD as I gained experience and confidence on the others. The last thing that I did to allow me to approach the build was to obtain a new Hitec Optic 6 radio with the Spectra (dial-a-crash!) module and Supreme 8-ch receiver! My old JR 431EX just didn't have the brains to use on the UCD. Not that I'm THAT ready for mixes, but I had no choice, since as for the dual elevator set-up, I didn't want to use a Y-harness. Same thing for the ailerons. I also had no dual rate ability with 431EX!
My last question is concerning the servos. I know I will need to get a 90 oz. high torque servo for the rudder, but I have several JR NES-517's and 527's I want to use for the other controls. I know that these are only good for 40.(?) oz. @ 4.8 volts, but after a call to JR, I was told that they are indeed rated up to 6 volts! Unlike Futaba and other servos however, nothing is published as to the torque/speed specs. at 6 volts. (JR hasn't been any help there either) Most other servos that do 40+ oz. @ 4.8 volts jump to around 55+ oz. at 6 volts plus the speed almost doubles from .25 sec. to around .14! I would assume that the 517/527's would do nearly if not the same or better. 56 to 58 oz. @ .15 sec. should be plenty for all but rudder in this ship, right?
Looking forward to your feedback. I know this will be a fun experience, from the many threads on the UCD .46, this plane has brought a lot of happiness to many of you! I'll be the next to find out how much fun this bird is, let's hope! And I am impressed with how many of you out there are so helpful and willing to share this info with us.
Thanks in advance!

Rob AKA "Blisster"
Tulsa, OK (Home of Brandon Chitty, one of two guys in the country lucky enough to be sponsored by Hitec and one of the best new 3d pilots on the scene! Check him out at www.chitty3d.com)

Hey Rob AKA "Blisster" ... Welcome to the "Do" World ..
With the planes that you listed, You should have no problem flying the "Do" She's a
real floater, and lands really easy.. As you said she is no speed plane... It's also good
that she lands easy, because you are right on the gear, it is a weak spot... The least
that you should do is to add more epoxy, with bulsa strips from the block up the sides
to about where the bottom of the tank bulk head...
Or you can use the "gjeffers " method, which is what I did on "Do" # 2.... From the wing
opening on the fuse, look for the wood dowls(reference) that goes through the L. G. block
look to see where the L.G. blind nut are, Then drill a hole(2) slightly smaller than a 4-40
rod stright through the middle of the landing gear block from the wing opening, to the
exhaust exit behind the firewall area, cut 4-40 rod to fit and epoxy in.... It works great
and it's real easy to do. The 50SX should do OK, as you read, most use the Saito 82
(which does great in the "Do") on up to the "gjeffers power hungry" Saito 100 I',m
using the S-82, I had a YS 63 and the Saito 100 in "Do" # 1 Both worked Great!! With
the 100, 1/8 to 1/4 stick is all that you need

I use tailwires, but they aren't needed as long as you DO NOT SCORE THE BULSA "IN
ANYWAY" when removing the covering for the area to be glued to the fuse... There's
different methods to do this... The way I do mine... I mark the stab, then I lightly cut
the covering down the center of the marks,( IMO, cut not as critical, because it;ll be
covered with epoxy and it's in the center of the fuse) then work the covering up from
the cut and peel it back to where I'm going to cut it, fold the covering over and with
just the blade of my knife laying flat slide it down the fold, iron the ends and 30min
epoxy the stab in...

Your servo's mentioned should be good, I use HS 425bb(57oz) for all but the rudder which
has a HS 645mg(I forget, but plenty enough) I do run on 6v's IMO... I think 50+ oz on "ALL"
the surfaces is plenty, since you can't really use full rudder on the "Do" "to much coupling"

The "Do" is built light, She will not take much abuse..... But she's a great floater, lander and
all around fun plane, She does a lot of things well, inverted flat spin is one, hovers all day if
it's powered right, and somethings not as good..... But for me The "Do" is King of fun!!!

Have fun and keep us updated on your progress!!

Blisster, You shouldn't have any problem flying the UCD, you'll find that it's as easy to land as your trainer and a very forgiving plane in the air if you keep everything set on low rates at first.
I haven't seen anyone with the OS50 for power but one of the guys in our club is flying his with a 46AX and it flies well, it's not like having a four stroke on it but it flies pretty good. I think the biggest problem with running the two stroke is they get most of their power from high RPM's and this plane will not let you get to those RPM levels.
The tail wires won't help with the flutter. I don't have the tail wires on mine and haven't had any problems. I'm not saying the tail wires don't add strength and help stiffen the tail up, I'm just saying I haven't had any problems without them.
Make sure you seal all the hinge lines and if possible use stronger push rods. The stock .256 rods have a ton of flex and will allow the flutter if your not real careful in flight.
The stock bolts and landing gear are plenty strong enough. All the mods are being done to reinforce the fuse to prevent the block that the gear bolts to from breaking out.
I've been running Futaba 3004 servos on the ailerons and elevators for 2 years and haven't had one fail yet. I have a hobbico CS70 on the rudder.

also Blisster you will want to add 2-3 deg right thrust for rudder free hovers, other than that i think the guys above covered it all

you will have fun!!!

Wow, that was quick guys! Thanks for the support and advice. I will be making most advised mods this evening. Since I used no blades for trimming the covering from the horizontal stab (I used a Weller WCC-100 adjustable temp. soldering iron with a sharp tip) and therefore could not have scored the balsa, I think I'll do a little fillet of epoxy when it's set and leave the tail alone (no tail wires) and do the beef up on the landing gear area first.

I am still chewing on the concept of the "gjeffers" method of drilling/epoxying the 4-40 rod. I am in the middle of final horizontal stab fixing and need to keep the wings on for reference until I have a stab line that's even with them. Unfortunately my slot is a bit off, it sits a little low on one side and after sanding the opening on one side to compensate, the tight fight is gone and will have to babysit while the epoxy sets up. Think I'll pass on the 6-minute epoxy I used everywhere else in lieu of some more working time time to get it right. Once done and I can take the wing off, I am sure that the concept will show itself to me. I gather though, that the rod will attach the L.G. block to the exhaust port ply? And, RAIDERON, in your post: "drill a hole(2)", does this mean I do this twice, one on each side? Not sure what the "(2)" is for, could you clear me up on that before I do the mod, please?

As for the 2-3 degree right thrust, since that is not a permanent mod, I'm not sure if I should fly the plane "as is" first and see if I need to worry about that one. I do plan to hover but might want to try both ways. Does the added right thrust effect the flight characteristics other than in hover mode? Is this an additional 2-3 degrees right thrust added to the thrust line already designed into the plane or is this the final angle of thrust? I assume that I use shims to set that up? Also, if I do that, will I have to move the mount to keep the spinner centered. I noticed during trial fit in spacing the rear spinner plate 5" from firewall, that the engine mount is at it's lateral limit already. I suppose I could rework (open up) the mount holes in the engine mount for more lateral adjustability.

And finally, RTN9105, what is the best method on this plane for sealing hinge lines. I have read about doing this with covering material but with all the colors in the scheme, how do you do that without totally wrecking the graphics in the covering? This is a step I really am sure is needed, since I just saw the video of an Extra 300s that fluttered the tail right off of the plane during a fly-by and it rocketed to the earth a mere seconds later. I have seen first hand what failure to seal hinge lines can do.

Lastly, I've seen a few UCD's with a black canopy. I really like the look of it! I assume this is merely a coat of paint sprayed on the inside . Is there a chance that this could cause damage in the form of warpage from direct sunlight? I've seen much thicker black plastic melt! (remember back when we listened to casette tapes and happened to leave one on the dash?)

Well, I got what I asked for so far, great advice from people who obviously know what they're doing! You all have my deepest gratitude and respect! I can't wait to tell you about the maiden! Don't hold your breath though, as you can see, I have a LOT of patience! 2 years this thing has sat in the box in my den waiting for the right time to come out and play. I won't be doing anything before it's time to do so. I know I'll have more fun knowing I did everything in my power to get it right.

Thanks again all!
Rob AKA "Blisster" (which by the way is from my favorite quote: ~"If ignorance were Bliss, I'd be a Blisster!"~

P.S. I also noticed that my above link to Brandon Chitty's web site has a " ) " on the end that shouldn't be there and will cause a "server not found" error. Sorry 'bout that! Let's try it again...
www.chitty3d.com

There are a couple of ways that seem to work very well to seal the hinge line. You can get clear monocoat to seal the hinge line with and you won't even notice that it's there. I've also had good results just using clear packing tape, this is a little more visible but not really that noticeable on the bottom of the wing and stab. The tape does need to be changed about once a season because after a while the fuel will make the glue start to let loose but for something quick it works well.

Blisster... Yes that was two holes one on each side, I did mine as close and inbween
both blind nuts of the gear.. See pic... If you can see it:-)

What Gary was saying on the engine off-set... You can just use thin washers on the
left side of the engine mount... I have not added any to mine yet... The way I was told
to check was to have your plane trimmed out, and min./no wind.. Go vertical and see if
your "trimmed" plane veers to the left.... You should do this a number of times because
a lot can affect this test.... This may be wrong, but that's what was told to me)

On my canopy, I just spray painted it... It's working great so far in this AZ heat, I also
did my 4*60 and it's still good after about two yrs... Don't drop nothing on the canopy,
If it does not break the canopy, it will damage the paint... Don't ask how I know this

Also, If you have not done so, A lot of us do not use the cowl mounting blocks, instead
just screw the cowl into the fuse/firewall area.. "on the side"... see pic... It saves a small
bit of weight, that is if you do not need the weight... It's no big deal tho....


I also upgraded to 4-40 rods on all control surfaces, and used clear ultrakote on the bottom
of all.. On "Do" # 1.... I just used Schotch tape( at least 75 flights).... it stayed on until her
demise due to a bad battery connection on the solder joint on the battery itself(.. It not
only killed the "Do", But it hurt my S-100 that was on it, As she went in inverted at 1/2
throttle:-((((((((((((((... And that's a lot of throttle with the 100 on the 46 "Do"....

Blisster, here is a pic just in case the mental pic isnt comming to ya
here you can see the two 8-32 rods next to the two stock wooden dowls, and where they come out inside the cooling ramp. pretty simple and never failed again.i drilled the holes and tapped with my 8-32 drill and tap set then soaked the rod and filled the hole with 30 min epoxy then screwed them in

Good work and advice guys. I have nothing to add.

Well except for one thing...Anyone who paints a canopy is trying to hide something.

Thanks
Barry

Oh another thing....If I could only make one modification, I'd make better pushrods. I think that is the weakest thing on the plane. All the other mods are there for convience. Well, except for the landing gear reinforcement. Well, and the added thrust to the right. Oh yeah, and the tail wires. And bigger tires. And a 4 stroke engine of large size. And of course the hinge sealing. And....

Thanks
Barry

Speaking of the Giant...I flew it again yesterday. I really like the way it flys but I'm disappointed in the power. So I brought it in and changed the prop to a APC 17x6 (vs. my 18x6 Zinger) and put it on the trusty fish scale. Wow what a difference! The 160 go going now! Women and children were screaming and running (well, they would have been if there had been any there) But what a difference! Engine RPM now quickly goes to 10000+. Scary. And the fish scale read 16lbs static thrust. I think the perfect prop may be a 17x8. I'm gonna try that next.

Anyways, I spent 15 minutes grinning with the new prop and then I taxi out to the runway. Everything is perfect. No wind, no spectators, cool tempreatures (65 F) and plenty of time. I look down and now my right flap is "flappin". That servo broke a karbonite gear. I'm starting to have a problem with these servos. I think I may have over tighten them. They both broke with the top part of the gear still attached to the screw. Bummer! Anyways, no more extra servos so I couldn't fly with that 25% increase in thrust. But it would have been awesome. It was amazing how much more the plane surged with the throttle. Even on the taxi I could tell a major difference. But no flight. I now have a couple of more servos coming. I'm giving them one more try on the assumption that I thightened the screws too tight and that is what caused the breakage. It certainly isn't from hard flying or landing.

Thanks guys.

Barry

PS: I think is cool all the support given to Blisster and others who just ask. And Blisster, welcome to the club. Good to have ya!

Ya know, I just had an idea...OS160, UCD46, time while I wait for the servos to come...

thansk
Barry

yes Barry you just gave me a great idea[sm=idea.gif]instead of taking my 125 and putting it on my edge and then putting my 100 thats on my edge on my new Do, i might have to put my 125(same mounting dimensions) on my new Do[X(]
ill need to put my 60 size LG on it so i can run a 17x4w on it, man!!!! then i can get hert up higher faster for a inverted flatspin to a inverted flyby LOWWWWW!!!!!!!
thanks BArry, your the greatest thinker of all time