msouth12

I just finished my 46 today with a YS63 in it. What balance point has been working best on this plane? I havn't added any lead yet, but it is very tail heavy at this point.

Thanks, msouth

rclement

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What! A family reunion? Oh! I have an idea. Have the family reunion at the flying spot! [X(]

CrashBurn69

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I added 2oz to the tail with my Saito 82 to balance at 5 1/2 inches. It flys well and handles pretty good that way. I only have a few flights with it, but hopefully in a couple of weeks I can get some more time with it.

Barry Cazier

My Feedback: (17)

msouth12...

You'll love this plane. It has a favorable range on the CG. Anywhere between 4-6 inches works fine. I personally have mine at 5 5/8". It flys nicely there and is still very easy to land. I try not to add any weight and move the battery to get my CG. I have to move the batter to the rear of the canopy area to get it to balance there. I'm using the 82. I think the YS is about the same weight.

Good luck.

Thanks
Barry

gjeffers

mspouth, if you havent already, move the battery to just above the fuel tank, dont add any weight if possible, this plane likes less, Ron should chime in, i think he had a ys63 in his once
as far as cg, if new to this plane about 5 inches is great and then as you loosen up a bit you can go as far as 6in

Great idea CEEGEE(HEEHEE) but its too hotttttttttt nowwwwwww, it would be one quick reunion, everyone would go home about eight

raideron

My Feedback: (1)

Man guy's, my homemade CG machine, is off I guess... Sort of like my finger prop balancer,
My CG... (I thought).... Is at 5&3/4+ best I can tell, with the S-82, at the edge of the stock
upright mount on the top:-)), T.T. spinner, wheel pants. HS 425BB servos, and a HS 645MG
on the rudder.... Everything is as far forward as I can get it... I posted a pic a page or so
back..... And I still added about 1/2 oz to the nose??????.. And have since changed the
throttle servo to a HS 85mg..... Man this balancing act is getting to me..... But she does all
that I want her to and she does them well???? Lands on butter, without leaving a trace
and flyes inverted with just a touch every now and then to stay level....... D_m it... Must
be the hawaian in me... As-Y-Hard...... But it works

Well on Sat... I took both tha "Do", S.T. and my spad.............. I put the S.T. up first for
about 5 flights... What fun!!!!.. She's still, " just flying"..... Then I started to get the "Do" ready
to go..... But then the call for plyon racing started....... My rain gutter coro-plastic bullet came
in first again.... Dang it.... The "Do's" ready for next time out..............

Ohhh.... Like I said... My CG machine is sort of like me.... Alittle tipsy ... But I added no
weight when I had the YS 63 in with the same setup as above...... And it worked great!!!...
But the AZ heat started getting to the YS...... But as they say...... You will NEVER beat the
response of the YS...... B Cool people..... [:@]..... It's HOT, HOT, HOT Here....

msouth12

Thanks guys, I will move the battery under the fuel tank and see where it balances out on the CG machine.

msouth

raideron

My Feedback: (1)

msouth12.... I have mine (6v) setup see pic... And I added about 1/2+ oz to the nose
and she flys well.... That is with the S-82.... But, I had the same setup with the
YS and no weight to the nose ( well almost, I did not have a glitch in #1 [:@] ).......
I even moved the battery to the back of the canopy to get "Do" #1 a bit more tail
heavy... Or was that after going to "Gary's" power hungry S 100 idea in my "Do"...

Guess if you need the weight up front and you want to make a hatch/door
(side of fuse) for the lower tank area for your battery.. that would be better than
adding weight... Good time to upgrade to a 10oz tk. too ... I also "taped"
around my 10oz tk. for my YS pressure assist

There are some lite ply that runs on the sides in the nose, guess for the firewall..
but there is enough room to make a cut just on the bulsa.....

Well on another thought...[sm=confused.gif].... When I install all my tks.. I always use
silicon sealent at the firewall to seal and cushion that area... If you don't, the door
"may" not be needed for the battery???? along with screwing on the throttle servo
what-you-ma-call it...... It is a bit tight up frt....

B Good

I added a new pic on the "Do" belly.. and a few others... Bear with me...

Blisster

Hey Raideron,
I found this little bugger the other night. I think this may be the ticket for your glitches. It is for electric systems, since the motor/esc under power causes EMI (which is cleaned up just like RFI) and is "Choked" by the trifilar wound transformer (three wires wrapped around a torroid several times) Here is the link:

http://www.multimodetech.com/index.p...&id=1&Itemid=2

There is a high and low current model. The high current would be the best for you and it's only 2 or 3 $$ more. I feel confident that this would resolve your glitching.

I noticed that you have the Hitec receiver in your "Do". Do you use the Laser or the Optic radio? I found some issues with the Optic that I want to consult with you about.
Just trying to save you some tape, and some glitching too!
Blisster

raideron

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Blister... I use an Airtronics RD 8000...

If that did work, How/where would it be connected??? This club member has a unit that he
wants $20 for but it will connect all the tail wire servos to the rec??

In the mean time... I have lots of tape.... and no glitches if I use it...

Blisster

You're right Ron, you'd have to have one on each servo wire, too many $$'s!! Sorry about that, I got all excited for nothing. It goes between the Rx and the ESC in the electric set-up and blocks noise coming from the the motor/ESC combo. Not much help for your situation. Whatever you're doing by taping it (your antenna) down the wing is helping because you are (1) 90 degrees off of the offending noise (out of phase) or (2) routed away from a source of interference. Just for grins, are your battery leads twisted? If not, try it, it helps to create some inductance to help keep signals from your power line. Torroids are best but it helps if it is the correct ferrite, they are classed by types for desired frequency range. I gues that your low-tech solution, since it works, is really the best thing going, might as well go with what works eh?

Blisster

Hey, I forgot to mention...

On Sunday, Father's Day (appropriately enough!) my 11 year old son, Logan solo'd his first flight! We had been slowly working on an Ikarus Shock Flyer with a Rimfire brushless outrunner until last mid-week when I decided I wanted him to have the Four Star Forty I had sitting around, and wanted him to learn the basics first.

He lined up the Shock on a basketball court next to a huge football field. He throttled up and within 6 feet the little foamie shot up and went skyward. He looked like he had been doing it for ten years already. He made beatiful slow nose-up stalls and graceful banking turns! When this bird had it's nose in the breeze with just enough throttle it would just float. This plane is razor sharp! No surprises or ill habits, just superb, tight and stable flight. He brought it down to a crawl and did a fine grass landing after a gentle glide path down to the turf about twenty feet away. I was all fuzzy inside! I stayed up late last night and built a new wing from scratch for the Four* and after a refit of the tail control rods am ready to cover, mount the OS Max .50 and take her for a spin.

My UCD46 is patiently waiting a new powerplant and servos while we work on/fly other planes, but it is only a matter of time! I'll be keeping everyone abreast of the progress there, when I have any!

Blisster

raideron

My Feedback: (1)

Hey thanks Blisster!!.... And a *BIG* Congrads to Logan!!!.. I tried to get my grandson
and granddaugther to fly... And since it was free I even got them into the AMA.. I corded
with them on my Avistar.. he was doing good, but he was 14 at the time, and his
interest has changed somewhat...Rachel went out about three times and was a bit shaky,
on the last outting, she say's Gramps, this seems like a lot of fun and it's really cool
watching you fly.... But I don't think it's for me and you get up Waaay too early to get out
here...

I'm not so sure it's coming from the battery???? Only because I had the rec/wires in
different position, wire tied together/untied, hanging loose/tucked under the battery etc.
and I got the same results with three different rec.'s, 2 batteries, 2 HS 645MG servos'
and I also switched out the ext. on the servo even tho the connectors/wires looked brand
new.. Ohh tried another charge switch too.. plus all the medal removal from the tailwires.. [:@]
I think this one is "Busted"... As in, I give up [:@]... So, it's either going to tell me, "Hey
here ya go.. I'm the problem" Or I break down and buy the Glitch buster...

Had a Great Day with the "Do" on Wed. It made less noise also, Guess the ^*&#% Prop
balancer is working... But it could have been the weather stripping I added to the wing/fuse
joint....... I have been practicing with blenders..... Man, They do look violent to the plane
just before she goes into the slow flat spin... Hey maybe it'll knock out my glitch
On one of them, I blipped the throttle a bit more to gain more rotation just before I inputted
the rudder... WoW.. I thought the "Do" was going to come apart....

raideron

My Feedback: (1)

Hi People:-))... Well I left the "Do" and the S.T. at home this morning... I wanted to
put some air time on the S-100 after it's bearing replace and new spray bar assy....
So I installed it in my test bed plane:-) 4*60... She's purring like a kitten, and running
better than ever... I wanted to test the ceramic bearings... So I was doing a mini
harrier, as best as the 4*60 can.... and she lost lift at about a foot over the runway
snapping half of my APC 16x4W blade.... That should be a good test on the bearings[]
besides the prop... no problems to the plane and the Saito is still purring.....
MMmmm, I wonder if it'll find it's way back to the "Do"........ Nah... The S 82 is doing
great..... Now I need a plane for the 100....................

Hey... How about my new weight savings..... wire ties for the engine hold down.....

rclement

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Ron, I don't know if that's such a great use of the wire ties. You probably should save them for "prop sewing" applications.

raideron

My Feedback: (1)

I guess your right Rob........ But I was trying
Plus I had to post again Our post numbers were tied @ 1383 each...

rclement

My Feedback: (1)

Our post numbers were tied? [X(] WoW! That's amazing! What are the odds? We must be Do brothers. [:-]

raideron

My Feedback: (1)

Did it again this morning.... Just taking my 4* and spad..... My, the 100 and bigger
prop.. sure make the 4* another plane... She'll hover for ever, and K.E.'s pretty long
even with stock control surfaces) On take off, roll on the throttle and she's in the air..
It's still a slow easy plane to fly...
My spad is still crusing through the air...
Well tomorrow will be a one plane day..... [X(]... The S.T. is charging....

Barry Cazier

My Feedback: (17)

Been flying my Velox the last couple of weeks. But next week I going back to the Dos. Never quit flying them, just take a break now and again.

I think the Giant is underpowered and I trying to think what to do. A YS 140 would be 10 ozs lighter (11lbs 7ozs probably) and would probably make the same if now more horsepower as the OS. But, another $450?!?!?! Maybe just fly it the way it is and not worry too much about the serious 3D with the Giant.

I'll probably think about it for a weed and fly the 46 now. Big, little and in between. I love the UCDs.

Thanks
Barry

raideron

My Feedback: (1)

Barry.. The engines would be pretty close...... Mokie<sp>210 or the cheaper fuel engine
Or as you said... leave as is & enjoy... You need the EP........... For the Family of "Do's"

fireman7875

My Feedback: (7)

So I also am thinking of getting one of these. I was going to use a Saito .72 since I already have one. What's the general concensus on this plane/engine combo? Any tail heaviness issues. Also, what is the purpose of the dual elevator servos? Seems you could a lot of CG trouble by eliminating the second elevator servo. I haven't heard of anyone doing away with it, though. What's the story on that?

Brian

Blisster

Hi Brian,
I just joined this group last month and will step to the plate to fill you in on what I have been so generously advised! These guys are great here and I owe them a lot. If I happen to miss any marks, I'm confident that they will step in and correct if necessary. But for now, I will do what I can to help. I have the UCD 46 as well as the EP. I have been flying the EP for several months now and the 46 is in progress. It would've been in the air by now if it hadn't been for the guys here in this thread. Their suggestions will give me much more pleasure when it comes time to actually fly this baby!

I'd say the general set-up around here is the Saito .82 4-stroke. I had bought the Great Planes suggested, OS Max .50 SX (not much bigger than a .40 size but with 1.8 bhp!) and I am told that it won't be enough, so it goes on my son's Four Star 40. Also popular is the Saito 100. I will most likely go with one of the four strokes, either the .82 or the 100 (not much difference in size, they will both fit inside the cowl) and they are able to produce their power at lower rpm's.

As for the dual elevators, I don' see why you couldn't link them together and avoid the two servos, as long as you have at least a 90 to 100 oz. torque servo. I haven't found anyone who has done it, but anything's possible. Otherwise, use two 50 oz. servos and a y-harness. I am going to go "full house" with mine howerver and use my Optic 6's Ailevon mixing ability (elevators work as normal but will also copy the ailerons when I do bank it). I have an Extra 300S with dual elevators and it's way cool! You can do killer torque rolls and flying/harrier rolls with both the ailerons and the elevators working together. I can do awesome rolls with my 300S and it never leaves it's line. It flies true and I don't have to mix rudder in or "two-thumb" it to get it to track straight.

Also, I was told that the stock pushrods are way too flimsy for this bird. Either upgrade to CF or larger wire rods or do what Raideron did and slide some CF tubing over the stock rods and CA them in place, he flies his with no problems at all. This will help to avoid flutter from the rods flexing in flight. They are pretty wimpy! Keep in mind, these guys are pushing these UCD's to perform at their upper limits. I have also been told that if just build it stock, even with my little OS .50 SX, that it will do most of what the other's will do, just not as easily or as impressively. I have considered going with what I have and getting used to the plane first at that level and then moving up in power (engine and servos) as I get used to the plane. However, I have owned this plane for two years and just started the build last month! After all that time, I figured I might as well get it all done first! I don't plan on doing anything less in the future and I have been wanting to go 4 stroke for a long time now anyway. I can always move the bigger works into another, better (not sure what that might be yet) plane down the road, right?

You might want to go back to about page 185 and on, and look for my first posts and you will see what they suggested I do. There are generous pics posted for most if not all the mods suggested. Some have added tail wires, almost all have reinforced the landing gear. I like the gjeffers method of drilling two holes from the wing opening to the exhaust ramp and epoxying two 4-40 rods there to anchor the gear block in better. Pictures are posted here in the last 5 or so pages somewhere, just follow the thread. This one is a MUST, as I have read about many UCD 46's losing their unmodified gear in flight! (not sure of the giant or the 60) I also have heard that some are placing washers on the left side of the motor mounts to add to the thrust line offset (about 3 degrees) , so that it will hover without the need to kick in the rudder. Other than that, it's just a matter of having decent servos (especially the rudder) and low rev power. Also make sure to seal up your hinge lines to avoid flutter getting into your control surfaces. And take to heart the fact that it is not a speed demon, it is one of the best (almost legendary now) 3d planes out there. I am looking at mine right now, it's all built and modified but I am awaiting a new powerplant (the Saito .82 or the 100) and some more precise and powerful servos (Hitec HS-605's look good to me for all but rudder which must be at least 90 oz.) than the JR 517/537's and Futaba 148/3003's I had laying around.

Like I said, these guys know what they're talking about, just perouse the thread a bit and most of all, have fun! You are bound to have nothing BUT that in the ownership of any U-Can-Do. Take heed in the uncountable years of experience shared in the thread and build it true and you will be espousing your thrill in flying that plane soon enough. I can't wait! I've been flying my Four Star 40, Seagull 300S .60, U-Can-Do EP and various gliders, foamies and 1/2A's for several years now and I have never been so excited about a plane! Nor have I exercised so much patience in getting everything just right, before flying a plane. I want to get everything I can out of this bird.

Hope this helped, and like I said, Ron. Barry and any of you other old farts that have been helping me out with information, if I missed anything or stated anything incorrectly, chime in and straighten me out! I know I don't have to ask, they are all great guys and are very willing to help out. They have so much fun with this plane that they bend over backwards to spread the word about what to do to improve on a plane that doesn't need much improvement! Fly with passion and let us know how things go for you. I hope you decide to get a UCD 46 or a 60 or a giant or an EP! Join the best thread in the RC Universe! Go see how many other threads have almost 200 pages. Not many! I am proud to be a member!

Do the "DO",
Blisster

gjeffers

Blisster is right on, the only thing i think that needs attention is that you will need a "Y" harness with a reverser if you dont individually program them with your radio.and also the 100 does not fit inside the cowl(almost) but you will need to open up two holes for the valve covers to stick out

i am just finishing up mine with my 100 in it and found that my previous assessments that a stock 40 size mount was too small was wrong, i have my 100 mounted in the stock mount and it was really easy with just minor shaving of the lower left screw hole rail to about half its thickness(the top part only where the screw goes through) will suffice and saves weight
i have almost installed my tailwires and only need to weigh and balance then next weekend will be greatly anticipated

here are a couple of pix i have already and will post more later!!

Barry Cazier

My Feedback: (17)

gjeffers...

Blisster gave all the right info. I wouldn't go to a single servo elevator. I don't think you'll have any proplems with balance. I use the 82 and it's fine. If you use the 91, 100 or ? you'll probably have to move the battery in the fuse anyways. So...no real advantage to a single servo set up that I can see.

This is an awesome plane. You'll never be sorry you got one. You'll probably keep one even after you dabble in other airplanes. That's me...I have/have had several other types/brands and I still like the UCDs the best. Even when I spend wayyyyyyyy more money...I still have more fun with these. I'm thinking my personal favorite is the UCD60 with the mighty 110. Hard to beat that one...unless you go with the UCD46 and the Satio 82....or the Giant.

Gjeffers...Another great looking build. Love that 100 on the nose. I should have done that. Maybe I will. Yours looks great. It's amazing after building several how you do a better job on just a couple of things that make it even better.

thanks
Barry

xxsnookxx

new to this thread just finished my ucd i only have a evo .46 on it at first this is my second plane will upgrade power after i gain more experience was wondering what prop seemed to work best with a .46 i have a 11x5 i am going to start with.was also wondering where to find carbon fiber rods for linkages....thank you...